View Full Version : My Titanic 10 is disappointing
jeffknob
10-13-2005, 09:42 AM
I have a Dayton Titanic 10 in a .75 cu.ft. enclosure in my Honda Pilot. It is powered by a Phoenix Gold XS2500 (bridged to 500x1). I have the gain at about 25% and the bass boost at about 10%. If I go any higher on any of these settings the sub will bottom out all the time. At these settings or below the output is very disappointing. Before I got the Pilot I had a Honda Civic with to JL audio 10w1 powered with an MTX 50x2 watt amp. The bass in the Civic was much more powerful and clean.
Does anybody have an idea of what is going on? I assumed by what people said on here that the Titanic 10 was going to be VERY impressive.
paul_n_oneal
10-13-2005, 09:49 AM
Well, you can't always belive what you read. Did you ask any of those people making the remarks if they had the driver in question? That usually shuts them up pretty quick. When I first started this hobby I ordered the 12" Titanic MKII. I was never happy with that sub. I ended up selling it and bought a 15" Quatro. IMHO, the bass produced by the Quatro was nicer than the Titanic and took less power to drive it. It seems as though you are in the same boat as I was. Just remember that more expensive doesn't mean better sounding. In some cases it's true but in many others not. I'm waiting on the sidelines to hear from more than 5 people that RS subs are better than the Quatro/Titanic/DVC. Then I might think about building one but probably not. Hope that helps. Paul.
envisionelec
10-13-2005, 09:50 AM
> I have a Dayton Titanic 10 in a .75 cu.ft.
> enclosure in my Honda Pilot. It is powered
> by a Phoenix Gold XS2500 (bridged to 500x1).
> I have the gain at about 25% and the bass
> boost at about 10%. If I go any higher on
> any of these settings the sub will bottom
> out all the time. At these settings or below
> the output is very disappointing. Before I
> got the Pilot I had a Honda Civic with to JL
> audio 10w1 powered with an MTX 50x2 watt
> amp. The bass in the Civic was much more
> powerful and clean.
> Does anybody have an idea of what is going
> on? I assumed by what people said on here
> that the Titanic 10 was going to be VERY
> impressive.
Well, it's not a car woofer, but it's no slouch, either.
What's your crossover frequency and slope? AND, where is the subwoofer located in your Pilot?
Well, here's what I see.
If we take this out of the car (so no cabin gain to deal with - this is only for theory purposes) and assume you really have about 18L once you subtract driver volume and all, you hit max XMAX (not max excursion!) in this box at 500W input power.
Cabin gain is a tough animal to predict, but it can be substantial. If you add boost at 20Hz, 6-8dB is probably more than enough to bring response to flat. I'm not sure if you'd even need that much.
So, looking just at the theory, your remarks just don't add up at all. Which then leaves us to understand what it is that you're not hearing that you want to hear.
I do wonder if you're used to a nifty bump in respnse somewhere between 30 and 50Hz. ;) It's pretty common to see this in car systems.
This is a single voice coil driver or I might wonder if the voice coils were not wired right.
Depending where you have that boost (and how much it is) you could be running out of XMax at a bit over 100dB before cabin gain - very easily could be 110dB (this based on the XMax output at 30Hz). And that's not to the actual driver excursion limits yet.
Color me a bit confused at this point. :)
C
C
madrok
10-13-2005, 10:35 AM
Your car is bigger, so you will be getting boost at a lower level. Is the sub in the trunk, and is there airflow between trunk and cabin? You won't hear the sub as well if it is locked airtight in the trunk.
First, set the controls on the head unit to flat, with zero bass boost. Then turn the volume/boost/xover controls on the AMP to 12-o'clock. Then play with the controls on the sub only. If you still can't get it right, try the controls on the head unit.
chevyman440
10-13-2005, 11:02 AM
I ran a Titanic 10 for about two years in my s-10 truck and it drew an awful lot of attention as the loudest damn 10" woofer around town.
On the other hand... I spent about 2 hours getting my girlfriends monte carlo to sound right with a 12" titanic. It cancelled out something awful up front. I ended with it facing backwards firing into the drivers side rear corner about 4" away. That took a lot of trial and error, but it sounds great.
Have you tried rolling your windows down to see if that helps with cancellations?
If it's bottoming out the box may be too big. I ran no bass boost, .45 cu ft box (without the woofer so less with), and 420 watts RMS (claimed on kenwood amp) and it would not bottom out.
-Matt
jeffknob
10-13-2005, 11:03 AM
> Well, it's not a car woofer, but it's no
> slouch, either.
> What's your crossover frequency and slope?
> AND, where is the subwoofer located in your
> Pilot?
I am pretty sure the crossover is set at 80Hz and the slope is 24db. The subwoofer is located in the far back. I have tried facing it toward the back also to the side. There is no change.
jeffknob
10-13-2005, 11:11 AM
> Well, here's what I see.
> If we take this out of the car (so no cabin
> gain to deal with - this is only for theory
> purposes) and assume you really have about
> 18L once you subtract driver volume and all,
> you hit max XMAX (not max excursion!) in
> this box at 500W input power.
> Cabin gain is a tough animal to predict, but
> it can be substantial. If you add boost at
> 20Hz, 6-8dB is probably more than enough to
> bring response to flat. I'm not sure if
> you'd even need that much.
> So, looking just at the theory, your remarks
> just don't add up at all. Which then leaves
> us to understand what it is that you're not
> hearing that you want to hear.
> I do wonder if you're used to a nifty bump
> in respnse somewhere between 30 and 50Hz. ;)
> It's pretty common to see this in car
> systems.
> This is a single voice coil driver or I
> might wonder if the voice coils were not
> wired right.
> Depending where you have that boost (and how
> much it is) you could be running out of XMax
> at a bit over 100dB before cabin gain - very
> easily could be 110dB (this based on the
> XMax output at 30Hz). And that's not to the
> actual driver excursion limits yet.
> Color me a bit confused at this point. :)
> C
> C
The driver is a single voice coil so that isn't an issue. The bass boost on the amp is only at about 10% and is centered at 45Hz. I have tried running it without the boost at first but my last setting is with it. There is no way I am getting even 100db from this sub. The bass adjustment on my deck is at -2 and when I turn up the volume, the sub distorts and my door speakers never do (Polk db6500 and Polk db650). There is no crossover on the door speakers either.
jeffknob
10-13-2005, 11:36 AM
MK3
> The driver is a single voice coil so that
> isn't an issue.
Always good to cover everything just in case. :)
> The bass boost on the amp is
> only at about 10% and is centered at 45Hz.
That's about as much as you should need. A couple dB of gain. You can add more if you prefer the "humped" response so many do.
Try running the sub off just a single channel of that amp and not bridging it. I'm wondering at this point if it's actually the driver that is distorting. Phoenix Gold isn't exactly the best there is and some drivers are a little less benign than others. Check your grounds and power connections too, just to be sure. A bad ground could cause some issues in the amp.
The other thing to try (if you can) would be to plug it into a plate-amp and use it on a receiver. Car audio stuff can be finicky at times (I recently helped my cousin do an install in his car, and he almost immediately replaced half his equipment 'cause it was crap... :P He did so of his own volition).
Also, this has been mentioned, but you have completely changed how much cabin gain (and WHERE it pulls in) you get in the vehicle change. It's very difficult to compare them at all, unless you're going in and actually measuring response.
C
envisionelec
10-13-2005, 12:19 PM
> Phoenix Gold
> isn't exactly the best there is and some
> drivers are a little less benign than
> others.
Woah. Sorry to hijack the thread, but...
If PG amps aren't exactly one of the best, then what the hell IS?
jeffknob
10-13-2005, 12:26 PM
> Woah. Sorry to hijack the thread, but...
> If PG amps aren't exactly one of the best,
> then what the hell IS?
I know there are better but I thought PG was pretty good. This amp was $550 when it was new so it wasn't a cheap one. This amp came from the middle of their model range at the time.
> If PG amps aren't exactly one of the best,
> then what the hell IS?
No idea. :) I don't do car audio, and my reference is one I learned from a guy that complained about PG a lot.
You have me thinking I'm not remembering right, which is entirely plausible. :)
I wonder what it is I'm thinking of if not PG though. . .
C
jeffknob
10-13-2005, 12:27 PM
> Well, you can't always belive what you read.
> Did you ask any of those people making the
> remarks if they had the driver in question?
> That usually shuts them up pretty quick.
> When I first started this hobby I ordered
> the 12" Titanic MKII. I was never happy
> with that sub. I ended up selling it and
> bought a 15" Quatro. IMHO, the bass
> produced by the Quatro was nicer than the
> Titanic and took less power to drive it. It
> seems as though you are in the same boat as
> I was. Just remember that more expensive
> doesn't mean better sounding. In some cases
> it's true but in many others not. I'm
> waiting on the sidelines to hear from more
> than 5 people that RS subs are better than
> the Quatro/Titanic/DVC. Then I might think
> about building one but probably not. Hope
> that helps. Paul.
Do you think the Quatro 10 or 12 do better than the Titanic 10 in my enclosure and with my amp?
> I know there are better but I thought PG was
> pretty good. This amp was $550 when it was
> new so it wasn't a cheap one. This amp came
> from the middle of their model range at the
> time.
Yeah, don't listen to that particular part of my post. :P It's based on a conversation that took place probably 4 or 5 years ago with someone that did repairs as well as installs professionally.
DO try just one channel and double check your connections. ;) You should have (I think) at least a 4ga if not 2ga or larger power cable, yadda yadda. Sometimes the actual ground in the back of a vehicle isn't as good as it should be, even if the conection is really solid.
C
envisionelec
10-13-2005, 12:32 PM
> No idea. :) I don't do car audio, and my
> reference is one I learned from a guy that
> complained about PG a lot.
> You have me thinking I'm not remembering
> right, which is entirely plausible. :)
> I wonder what it is I'm thinking of if not
> PG though. . .
> C
Well, PG has pretty big amps that draw a lot of current - that could be a downside.
They have some amps (M series) that will safely drive a 0 ohm load. I guess that could be a downside because the amp is physically huge somewhat unnecessarily.
Oh yeah. They're also often stolen and retain their value extremely well.
Maybe Pyramid? Precision Power? PPI has made some real stinkers in the past, oh, 10 years. Heh.
> Do you think the Quatro 10 or 12 do better
> than the Titanic 10 in my enclosure and with
> my amp?
I don't. :)
Others might.
But regardless, I'm not convinced it's the driver that is distorting just yet.
C
> Maybe Pyramid? Precision Power? PPI has made
> some real stinkers in the past, oh, 10
> years. Heh.
Yes, those are on my mental "bad" list... Profile too I think? Who knows. :) I run a set of Polk components I acquired years ago right off the head-unit (Pioneer, also about 6 years old). Just fronts (tweets in the headliner just above the A-pillar). The tires often make enough noise that trying to listen to anything is a lost cause anyhow. Azenis can get QUITE noisy, especially on concrete... but oooh do they STICK.
The way you describe them, I can't imagine a Phoenix Gold amp having trouble driving this, but at <100dB and major distortion? That doesn't sound like a driver problem - the Titanic should be able to do that without breaking a sweat.
Could it perhaps just be that he'll need to run a ground cable to get a decent connection? I've seen that before. Or even power cables too small?
C
envisionelec
10-13-2005, 12:39 PM
> I am pretty sure the crossover is set at
> 80Hz and the slope is 24db. The subwoofer is
> located in the far back. I have tried facing
> it toward the back also to the side. There
> is no change.
Try popping the phase switch on the amp to 180° to see if that helps any.
Uhh, last shot I can think of at the moment is dropping in another woofer (or home speaker..lol) and see if it has the same characteristics. It's possible that the boundaries around the woofer are actually causing enough cancellation that it *appears* to not make any bass. There are some vehicles that don't like subwoofers. Yours may be one of them. :) This is usually fixed by moving the enclosure around (you've already done).
Ease off the bass boost and crank the gain. BTW, the position of the gain knob causes no more or less stress to the amp. It simply sets a point at which the amp will deliver full power.
envisionelec
10-13-2005, 12:43 PM
> Yes, those are on my mental "bad"
> list... Profile too I think? Who knows. :) I
> run a set of Polk components I acquired
> years ago right off the head-unit (Pioneer,
> also about 6 years old). Just fronts (tweets
> in the headliner just above the A-pillar).
> The tires often make enough noise that
> trying to listen to anything is a lost cause
> anyhow. Azenis can get QUITE noisy,
> especially on concrete... but oooh do they
> STICK.
> The way you describe them, I can't imagine a
> Phoenix Gold amp having trouble driving
> this, but at Could it perhaps just be that
> he'll need to run a ground cable to get a
> decent connection? I've seen that before. Or
> even power cables too small?
> C
Well, the power and ground wires have a lot less to do with amplifier operation than a lot of people think. I've seen amps as his running off, oh, 12 guage wire quite successfully. However, poor connections are a bigger concern where the voltage drops way down on current draws. Ever seen a glass AGU fuse light up? Bad fuse, BAD. The merits of a separate ground wire are few, unless you own a fiber body vehicle or have copious amounts of rust on the chassis between the amp and battery. :)
jeffknob
10-13-2005, 12:53 PM
> Well, the power and ground wires have a lot
> less to do with amplifier operation than a
> lot of people think. I've seen amps as his
> running off, oh, 12 guage wire quite
> successfully. However, poor connections are
> a bigger concern where the voltage drops way
> down on current draws. Ever seen a glass AGU
> fuse light up? Bad fuse, BAD. The merits of
> a separate ground wire are few, unless you
> own a fiber body vehicle or have copious
> amounts of rust on the chassis between the
> amp and battery. :)
I am running 8 gauge wire which ideally should be 4 gauge to get full power out of the amp. This should actually make it less likely to distort the subwoofer.
I actually just got this amp back from Phoenix Gold from being fixed. I pushed the amp very hard in my Civic and blew some of the output FETs. Maybe they didn't fix it well. I will have to play around with it tonight. I can maybe connect one of my old JL10w1's to see how it works with the amp. I know completely what to expect from that sub. I will post what I find out.
> I actually just got this amp back from
> Phoenix Gold from being fixed. I pushed the
> amp very hard in my Civic and blew some of
> the output FETs. Maybe they didn't fix it
> well. I will have to play around with it
> tonight. I can maybe connect one of my old
> JL10w1's to see how it works with the amp. I
> know completely what to expect from that
> sub. I will post what I find out.
Ahh! Now we're getting somewhere. :) You're on the right track now.
I spent an hour yesterday re-doing a couple hundred solder joints on a Nakamichi amp I have that had a nasty buzz in one channel. I discovered after I was done that it was not just one channel that wasn't working at its best! Totally different amp.
A sloppy repair job could do it. Or a missed bad part.
Maybe you can "borrow" an amp from a big chain store with a good return policy as well somewhere in here to add another option to the tests.
You'll get there.
C
Oh yeah.
Going to just one channel of the amp *may* also bypass a bad repair (assuming just ONE channel is bad, not both). Of course, you'd have to try each one separately. But another test is another test. :)
C
madrok
10-13-2005, 01:19 PM
Oh, and let the SPL meter warm up too.
marklampi
10-13-2005, 01:19 PM
I'm sorry if someone already did this but the sub's specs sound fine and the amp is beefy enough for sure. what kind of box is it? sealed or ported? if ported where is it tuned to. if sealed is it sealed tight? do you have a subsonic filter? what kindof music makes it "bottom out" and when you say bottom out is it really coliding with the back plate or just distorting? what kindof wire is feeding your amp with what amp fuse? is your ground in good shape or is it a ring sitting on painted metal? is your headunit driving the amp with RCAs or speaker level? if this is a DVC sub are the coils wired properly, series, paralell, do the ohms match the amp? are the coils in phase or fighting eachother? do you have an EQ? Uhh I think thats all I got for now.
> MK3
That thing has excursion for miles. Something else to try (if you're going to open up the box to mount the JBL anyway) would be to make the box smaller. Add a brick or two. Sadly I don't have any of my sim tools here at work or I'd check for certain, but I think for a sealed automotive application you might want to go a bit smaller.
thenoid
10-13-2005, 04:14 PM
Provided Link: theNoid's DIY Raffle (http://www.palmbayaudio.com/raffle.html)
Ok, I have read all the posts here and I am willing to bet a beer on the amp being bad still, or simply installer error. Not pointing a finger here, shoot...I have done silly things MANY times in the past while doing installs...sh*t happens.
The only T10 I know of on a meter was pair of them in sealed clothes being driven by 300 watts x 2 MTX and hit 143.someting dB's...and those were the originals, in a late 80's firebird/camaro type body.
I have installed many T10 subs in everything from cars to trucks to boats with nothing but great success. Many of them with much less power than you are running.
You mentioned having the amp fixed....did Aaron fix it? If not they prolly f*cked it up even worse then when you sent it in. I don't trust to many repair shops can you tell?
Your box is fine, don't worry about going smaller. IN fact, set your "boost" flat and add soem poly to the box, and once your amp is fixed right, it should sound great.
Take one of your JL10's out there and drop it in the same box and see what happens, same results I am sure.
Let us know...
Noidster
are you sure the low-pass is set to low-pass, not hi-pass? just chekcing is all
________
White Widow Seeds (http://marijuanaseeds.org/)
jeffknob
10-13-2005, 04:34 PM
> Ok, I have read all the posts here and I am
> willing to bet a beer on the amp being bad
> still, or simply installer error. Not
> pointing a finger here, shoot...I have done
> silly things MANY times in the past while
> doing installs...sh*t happens.
> The only T10 I know of on a meter was pair
> of them in sealed clothes being driven by
> 300 watts x 2 MTX and hit 143.someting
> dB's...and those were the originals, in a
> late 80's firebird/camaro type body.
> I have installed many T10 subs in everything
> from cars to trucks to boats with nothing
> but great success. Many of them with much
> less power than you are running.
> You mentioned having the amp fixed....did
> Aaron fix it? If not they prolly f*cked it
> up even worse then when you sent it in. I
> don't trust to many repair shops can you
> tell?
> Your box is fine, don't worry about going
> smaller. IN fact, set your "boost"
> flat and add soem poly to the box, and once
> your amp is fixed right, it should sound
> great.
> Take one of your JL10's out there and drop
> it in the same box and see what happens,
> same results I am sure.
> Let us know...
> Noidster
> are you sure the low-pass is set to
> low-pass, not hi-pass? just chekcing is all
I am confident that the amp is connected properly but I will double check that. From what everyone on here is saying I am really starting to believe that my amp didn't get fixed properly. That Titanic 10 should hit really hard and it is just sad. I have heard one of my JL 10w1's with less power have much more punch than I am getting from this Titanic. That just doesn't make sense.
I actually had Phoenix Gold repair my Phoenix Gold amp. That is really sad on their part if they can't even fix their own product properly.
jeffknob
10-13-2005, 04:36 PM
> I am confident that the amp is connected
> properly but I will double check that. From
> what everyone on here is saying I am really
> starting to believe that my amp didn't get
> fixed properly. That Titanic 10 should hit
> really hard and it is just sad. I have heard
> one of my JL 10w1's with less power have
> much more punch than I am getting from this
> Titanic. That just doesn't make sense.
I am going to connect a home amp to this sub to see what this thing can really do and then I will really know if the problem is the amp or the sub. I am 95% sure it is the amp though.
> I actually had Phoenix Gold repair my
> Phoenix Gold amp. That is really sad on
> their part if they can't even fix their own
> product properly.
jyourison
10-13-2005, 07:52 PM
Just asking. Some amps can toggle 1x or 10x in order to handle low and high input levels. It's a different setting than gain. I assume you're using a low-level input (not from your speaker outputs)?
> I have a Dayton Titanic 10 in a .75 cu.ft.
> enclosure in my Honda Pilot. It is powered
> by a Phoenix Gold XS2500 (bridged to 500x1).
> I have the gain at about 25% and the bass
> boost at about 10%. If I go any higher on
> any of these settings the sub will bottom
> out all the time. At these settings or below
> the output is very disappointing. Before I
> got the Pilot I had a Honda Civic with to JL
> audio 10w1 powered with an MTX 50x2 watt
> amp. The bass in the Civic was much more
> powerful and clean.
> Does anybody have an idea of what is going
> on? I assumed by what people said on here
> that the Titanic 10 was going to be VERY
> impressive.
> I am going to connect a home amp to this sub
> to see what this thing can really do and
> then I will really know if the problem is
> the amp or the sub. I am 95% sure it is the
> amp though.
Does it go WHACK, or just get all fuzzy/mushy? An overdriven input or a bad amp shouldn't sound at all like a driver bottoming out. If you describe that I bet Aaron or someone will have a better clue.
> Just asking. Some amps can toggle 1x or 10x
> in order to handle low and high input
> levels. It's a different setting than gain.
> I assume you're using a low-level input (not
> from your speaker outputs)?
That's exactly what I was thinking...
jeffknob
10-13-2005, 10:00 PM
> Does it go WHACK, or just get all
> fuzzy/mushy? An overdriven input or a bad
> amp shouldn't sound at all like a driver
> bottoming out. If you describe that I bet
> Aaron or someone will have a better clue.
It sounds like the subwoofer is farting. I messed around with it some more tonight and noticed that it was leaking air. My box is the R&T single 10" box sold here at PE. They say that it is sealed very well and it appeared that way. I think that when I installed the higher powered amp the leaks became more evident.
I actually have a line level converter that I have used for years now in both my Civic and now my Pilot. I had this same converter connected when using my lower powered MTX amp and things were fine.
This weekend I am going to re-examine all of my wiring and reseal my box. I also need to replace my fuse (OOPS) because I was messing around with it this evening and pushed it too hard. I had the fuse under the hood setup for the lower powered amp. I should have known that eventually I would blow it with the higher powered amp.
THANK YOU to everyone that has been helping me.
markwortham
10-14-2005, 01:24 AM
Step 1
What does it sound like at low volume? Watch it to make sure you are keeping the excursion low, then put your head next to it. Any distortion? If so, you probably have an amp problem, or maybe just a wiring problem. If it sounds clean, proceed to step 2.
Step 2
Now turn it up a bit - you should be able to get an inch of excursion or more without any appreciable distortion. If you can get clean excursion even though there may not be much sound, your amp and sub are okay. It's time to look at box alignment, and placement. Odds are there is cancellation at the listening position. Experiment with placement some more and see what happens.
- Mark
> I have a Dayton Titanic 10 in a .75 cu.ft.
> enclosure in my Honda Pilot. It is powered
> by a Phoenix Gold XS2500 (bridged to 500x1).
> I have the gain at about 25% and the bass
> boost at about 10%. If I go any higher on
> any of these settings the sub will bottom
> out all the time. At these settings or below
> the output is very disappointing. Before I
> got the Pilot I had a Honda Civic with to JL
> audio 10w1 powered with an MTX 50x2 watt
> amp. The bass in the Civic was much more
> powerful and clean.
> Does anybody have an idea of what is going
> on? I assumed by what people said on here
> that the Titanic 10 was going to be VERY
> impressive.
thenoid
10-14-2005, 08:32 AM
Provided Link: theNoid's DIY Raffle (http://www.palmbayaudio.com/raffle.html)
> That Titanic 10 should hit
> really hard and it is just sad. I have heard
> one of my JL 10w1's with less power have
> much more punch than I am getting from this
> Titanic.
I am very familiar with the 10W1 as well, as they were my favorite 10" drivers back in the early to mid 90's. Had a pair of them in my Impala for that matter. As mentioned, I am quite familiar with the Titanic 10's as well and as far as overall output, the T10mkIII should damn near be able to bitch-slap the 10W1. Sound quality and such at lower, normal listening levels...I am betting most folks couldn;t tell the difference between the two. Let us know what you find...
Noidster
________
Pornstar live (http://www.girlcamfriend.com/webcam/pornstars/)
envisionelec
10-14-2005, 01:16 PM
> You mentioned having the amp fixed....did
> Aaron fix it? If not they prolly f*cked it
> up even worse then when you sent it in. I
> don't trust to many repair shops can you
> tell?
LOL. Thanks, Noid.
johnastockman
10-14-2005, 03:45 PM
> Just asking. Some amps can toggle 1x or 10x
> in order to handle low and high input
> levels. It's a different setting than gain.
> I assume you're using a low-level input (not
> from your speaker outputs)?
"I actually have a line level converter that I have used for years now in both my Civic and now my Pilot. I had this same converter connected when using my lower powered MTX amp and things were fine."
Line level converters use the speaker level outputs, right? It's been awhile since I've done any car audio stuff, so I'm not sure...maybe that could be a problem, even though he used it before with the other set-up?
John A.
I never liked using line-out-converters, I always thought the sound quality and power lacked going that route.
BUT, I did just install 2 Kicker Comp VR 10's with an old punch 40/20 in our Maxima to the factory "Bose" system. I used a line-out-converter and it doesn't sound all that bad.
I've heard that the Bose System in my Max utilizes sometype of equilization which modifies the sound frequencies, maybe this is what's going on with your system too? Just food for thought......
Good luck with your findings.
> "I actually have a line level converter
> that I have used for years now in both my
> Civic and now my Pilot. I had this same
> converter connected when using my lower
> powered MTX amp and things were fine."
> Line level converters use the speaker level
> outputs, right? It's been awhile since I've
> done any car audio stuff, so I'm not
> sure...maybe that could be a problem, even
> though he used it before with the other
> set-up?
> John A.
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