Modified New speaker......woodwork help please !!! *PIC*

[Andy_G]

http://users.tpg.com.au/users/gradds/maybe2.jpg


Due to perceived low x-o point problems, ie the mids not being able to get low enough to meet a side firing bass, I have modified the design.

Now, has anyone got any ideas how to do the bottom woofer surround, if I want to do it in real timber !
I could do it in mdf and paint, I suppose, but that seems like a cop-out.

[bking]

Got a router and a circle cutting jig? Should be pretty simple if you do.

[Andy_G]

> Got a router and a circle cutting jig?
> Should be pretty simple if you do.

Yeah, I'll have to go buy some more Tassie Blackwood first I guess. Found some through the phone, easy enough to get in Tasmania, but not up here !!!.
Glue up some 12" squares and go for it with the router.

[bogie]

> Now, has anyone got any ideas how to do the
> bottom woofer surround, if I want to do it
> in real timber !
> I could do it in mdf and paint, I suppose,
> but that seems like a cop-out.

Very sexy... I'd do it laminated tho... Use good ply, with the wood you like on the front, and put it on an inch or so of MDF, circle routed... Glue the whole mess together, using plenty of clamps, then glue/screw to the baffle.

Bogie want to make...

[Andy_G]

> Very sexy... I'd do it laminated tho... Use
> good ply, with the wood you like on the
> front, and put it on an inch or so of MDF,
> circle routed... Glue the whole mess
> together, using plenty of clamps, then
> glue/screw to the baffle.

> Bogie want to make...

As I have always said, anyone who wants to use one of my designs as "inspiration" is welcome to..... go for it !!!.
I just don't supply plans or anything !!

[bogie]

Make your real wood thingie... Plane it, make it nice, then cut your hole... Now, rabbet it DEEP/WIDE, and laminate a chunka THICK MDF inside...

[Andy_G]

> Make your real wood thingie... Plane it,
> make it nice, then cut your hole... Now,
> rabbet it DEEP/WIDE, and laminate a chunka
> THICK MDF inside...

Actually, my plan was to build the main cab in mdf, including baffle backing, then screw the Tassie Blackwood on from behind with a layer of closed cell foam between.

[mgh]

Make the bottom box a trapezoid (wider at the bottom as you look at it from the front).

Murray

> Due to perceived low x-o point problems, ie
> the mids not being able to get low enough to
> meet a side firing bass, I have modified the
> design.

> Now, has anyone got any ideas how to do the
> bottom woofer surround, if I want to do it
> in real timber !
> I could do it in mdf and paint, I suppose,
> but that seems like a cop-out.

[Andy_G]

> Make the bottom box a trapezoid (wider at
> the bottom as you look at it from the
> front).

> Murray

The timber I have is only 215mm wide, and I only have 8ft of it. Maybe if I could match it I could try to join some to the side. Your idea hold merit though, worth considering.

[bogie]

But if you can make the blackwood piece cosmetic, and keep everything rigid and dead with some non-resonant, non-warping, ain't gonna move 'tall MDF...

> Actually, my plan was to build the main cab
> in mdf, including baffle backing, then screw
> the Tassie Blackwood on from behind with a
> layer of closed cell foam between.

[Andy_G]

> But if you can make the blackwood piece
> cosmetic, and keep everything rigid and dead
> with some non-resonant, non-warping, ain't
> gonna move 'tall MDF...

that's the basic idea :-))

[Andy_G]

http://users.tpg.com.au/users/gradds/maybe3.jpg


If I use some of the Jarrah I have on the shelf, I can taper the bottom part out as someone suggested.
Ends up looking something like this...

[Adrian]

It looks great! Are you going to use some contrasting woods?
Adrian
> Due to perceived low x-o point problems, ie
> the mids not being able to get low enough to
> meet a side firing bass, I have modified the
> design.

> Now, has anyone got any ideas how to do the
> bottom woofer surround, if I want to do it
> in real timber !
> I could do it in mdf and paint, I suppose,
> but that seems like a cop-out.

[Adrian]

I like the relief the trim ring give to the bottom from baffel. Its a little more subdued then the design above, but that one is more Andy_G-esque. :)
you're truely avante garde.

Adrian

[dlneubec]

Hi Andy,

Off the top oof my head, what I would do is make the box behind out of mdf and the front baffle backing out of mdf, so you structurally have and mdf box. Then make a round cutout out of mdf to act as a spacer and woofer mount, maybe 1/2" depth, the outside of which is the same dia as the woofer. Glue this solidly to the mdf box. Then cut a hole in it big enough for the back of the driver cutout. Then make a donut that fits around this mdf piece of your blackwood. and glue it to the front baffle so that the woofer sits inside of it (could be flush if you use 1/2" mdf). It would not be structurally important, as you would put the screws or bolts through the mdf backer and round spacer piece. Run the grain left to right so that the blackwood that sticks out on each side won't fracture at the edge of the box if bumped.

> Due to perceived low x-o point problems, ie
> the mids not being able to get low enough to
> meet a side firing bass, I have modified the
> design.

> Now, has anyone got any ideas how to do the
> bottom woofer surround, if I want to do it
> in real timber !
> I could do it in mdf and paint, I suppose,
> but that seems like a cop-out.

[Andy_G]

> Hi Andy,

> Off the top oof my head, what I would do is
> make the box behind out of mdf and the front
> baffle backing out of mdf, so you
> structurally have and mdf box. Then make a
> round cutout out of mdf to act as a spacer
> and woofer mount, maybe 1/2" depth, the
> outside of which is the same dia as the
> woofer. Glue this solidly to the mdf box.
> Then cut a hole in it big enough for the
> back of the driver cutout. Then make a donut
> that fits around this mdf piece of your
> blackwood. and glue it to the front baffle
> so that the woofer sits inside of it (could
> be flush if you use 1/2" mdf). It would
> not be structurally important, as you would
> put the screws or bolts through the mdf
> backer and round spacer piece. Run the grain
> left to right so that the blackwood that
> sticks out on each side won't fracture at
> the edge of the box if bumped.

Thanks for the ideas. The ring grain going across is something I hadn't thought of, would be a nice look too.
I may have to create a bulge on the sides of the main cabinet for a short way in as well, to accommodate the driver. 'Twill be interesting to build for sure !!!

[jag]

> Now, has anyone got any ideas how to do the
> bottom woofer surround, if I want to do it
> in real timber !

How about going with the rounded wood baffle but making the whole box out of mdf, then cut your whole baffle piece for the top but on the bottom only do a ring arround the driver. Cut whats left of the timber into strips and make an octogon or similar with lapped joints, then use your cirlce cutter on the outside and inside. You could even raise the driver up on a stepped mdf baffle and rabit the inside of the trim piece so it could have some depth to it on the edges and still be flush with the driver. Then you could have whatever the base box finsih is show throughin the middle and at the bottom. You could even build up some thickness of the mdf and build a bit of a contour back to the base cabinet, like a flower pot sticking out of the narower box.