Router Bits For Speakers Don't Exist

[porper]

OK. I edging closer to actually buying a rotor. So, while at a local Sears, I waddled thru thru the hardware dept & checked out the routers. And their bits.

There was NOT ONE 3/4" roundover bit, anywhere. Plenty of bits, and nice bit kits (in handsome wood boxes), but nothing over 5/8".

Not just that, but while there was an endless selection of bit for all kinds of fancy routing of edges for things like baseboards, cabinets, etc., I couldn't identify anything for simple speaker recesses, such we do. I'm sure there were bits in there that could do it, but how do you recognize them?

The hardware dept. chickie looked at me with bovine incomprehension when I asked her questions. She was competant at ringing up sales, however.

Any ideas about finding bits for speaker use?

[bogie]

Check Rockler or Woodcraft.

[bahern]

> OK. I edging closer to actually buying a
> rotor. So, while at a local Sears, I waddled
> thru thru the hardware dept & checked
> out the routers. And their bits.

> There was NOT ONE 3/4" roundover bit,
> anywhere. Plenty of bits, and nice bit kits
> (in handsome wood boxes), but nothing over
> 5/8".

> Not just that, but while there was an
> endless selection of bit for all kinds of
> fancy routing of edges for things like
> baseboards, cabinets, etc., I couldn't
> identify anything for simple speaker
> recesses, such we do. I'm sure there were
> bits in there that could do it, but how do
> you recognize them?

> The hardware dept. chickie looked at me with
> bovine incomprehension when I asked her
> questions. She was competant at ringing up
> sales, however.

> Any ideas about finding bits for speaker
> use?

You could try infinitytools.com. Partsexpress sells circle cutting jigs. What I have done is, with my plunge router, cut the recess of what ever dept you need for the edge of the driver. For example, if the diameter of the driver is 1 inch larger than the hole needed for the driver, use a half inch straight bit. Then I use a 1/4 straight bit for the hole itself. The jig I use is setup for the 1/4 inch bit. There are also rabbeting bits that you could use to cut the recess edge, but I have not been able to find one with a cutting area of more than a 1/2 inch (if ever you need something larger).

Good luck.

[dancarroll]

> I couldn't
> identify anything for simple speaker
> recesses, such we do. I'm sure there were
> bits in there that could do it, but how do
> you recognize them?

There are a couple of ways to do it, likely more. (1) Use a jasper jig or some other circle jig and a 1/4" straight bit -- I like to use a spiral upcut bit. Set your recess depth. Start at the outer diameter and make passes inward until you get to outer diameter of the through-hole, then cut all the way through. This is what I do. (2) Cut the through hole using a hole saw or circle jig and use a rabbeting bit of the proper cut-size to do the recess. Many swear by this; I can rarely make it work right, so I use Method 1.

To find decent bits at decent prices, go here:

<A HREF="http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/">http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/</A>

HTH.

Dan

[jerimiah]

For the first time ever this past weekend I used the circl jig and the plunge rounter. It is very scary if you are not use to tools like that but once I read the direction on the plunge router and bought a 1/4 inch straight cut bit, it was like make pie (-: Seriously, I am green at all of this stuff and that was the first tool that I ever used out side of a drill and it damn near did it by it self. Now just from this weekend if I build another speaker I now know that making the cut out for the speakers is the easiest part.

> There are a couple of ways to do it, likely
> more. (1) Use a jasper jig or some other
> circle jig and a 1/4" straight bit -- I
> like to use a spiral upcut bit. Set your
> recess depth. Start at the outer diameter
> and make passes inward until you get to
> outer diameter of the through-hole, then cut
> all the way through. This is what I do. (2)
> Cut the through hole using a hole saw or
> circle jig and use a rabbeting bit of the
> proper cut-size to do the recess. Many swear
> by this; I can rarely make it work right, so
> I use Method 1.

> To find decent bits at decent prices, go
> here:

> <A HREF="http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/">http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/</A> HTH.

> Dan

[Pete Schumacher ®]

http://s7.sears.com/is/image/Sears/00925939000?rgn=0,0,1350,1900&scl=7.6&fmt=jpeg

Provided Link: 3/4&quot; roundover at SEARS (http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Power+Tool+Accessories&pid=00925939000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Router+Bits&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes)


I do it just like he described in (1) and it's always worked for me. I take my time and go maybe an 8th inch on each pass.

Here's the link to the bit you're looking for, but it's for 1/2" router shanks.

I've used 3/4" quarter round oak to do the baffle edges. works real well.

[ryanscott]

> To find decent bits at decent prices, go
> here:

> <A HREF="http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/">http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/</A> HTH.

I was going to suggest them as well. I've ordered a few things from there and have been quite happy.

I found a 1 3/8" Freud roundover bit on Ebay for $30, brand new still in the package :)

[ryanscott]

> I do it just like he described in (1) and
> it's always worked for me. I take my time
> and go maybe an 8th inch on each pass.

> Here's the link to the bit you're looking
> for, but it's for 1/2" router shanks.

> I've used 3/4" quarter round oak to do
> the baffle edges. works real well.

Hey Pete, I bought a Hitachi KM12VC router ... and I got a 1 3/8" roundover. You're free to use it for your next project, I owe you!

Here's a good router tip I found last night.

<A HREF="http://www.exquisiteaudio.com/baffle.html">http://www.exquisiteaudio.com/baffle.html</A>

Glad I found it, I have been trying to figure out how to recess my Focal TC120TD5's.

[Andy_G]

I doubt you would find a round-over bit greater than 1/2" radius with a 1/4" shank. It just isn't safe.

As for speaker hole cutting, I use a 3/4" diameter for the flush first , then change to a 1/4" for the main hole.

[Pete Schumacher ®]

I'm ready. I've got 4 SEAS 8" woofers and a pair of 27TBFCs for an open baffle MTM. Are you ready to put that woofer tester and mic to work?

[ryanscott]

> I'm ready. I've got 4 SEAS 8" woofers
> and a pair of 27TBFCs for an open baffle
> MTM. Are you ready to put that woofer tester
> and mic to work?

Open baffle now huh :) Guess you gave up on the rubicks cube box? I'm probably going open baffle top with my Peerless HDS' and the Focal TC120 tweets, and something in a closed box on bottom ... we can have an open baffle showdown!

This weekend should work, I'll email you.

[Pete Schumacher ®]

> Open baffle now huh :) Guess you gave up on
> the rubicks cube box? I'm probably going
> open baffle top with my Peerless HDS' and
> the Focal TC120 tweets, and something in a
> closed box on bottom ... we can have an open
> baffle showdown!

> This weekend should work, I'll email you.

I just don't feel like closing in the baffle. Takes too long to get to the sound!!! Now I just need to decide on the baffle size and look.

[ryanscott]

> I just don't feel like closing in the
> baffle. Takes too long to get to the
> sound!!! Now I just need to decide on the
> baffle size and look.

Well those will work well OB, super high Q and they move some air ...

You can use my 1 3/8" roundover on the baffle :-D

[jonpike]

> Hey Pete, I bought a Hitachi KM12VC router
> ... and I got a 1 3/8" roundover.

Wait till you use that thing... hehehe.. you're gonna see some sawdust!! I've used a 3/4", and MAN... I was very glad I went outside the garage and closed the door!! ;-) And wore dirty clothes, and put on full goggles, and had my wife handy to help with shop vac'ing me when we were done...

Have fun...

[bill]

> Wait till you use that thing... hehehe..
> you're gonna see some sawdust!! I've used a
> 3/4", and MAN... I was very glad I went
> outside the garage and closed the door!! ;-)
> And wore dirty clothes, and put on full
> goggles, and had my wife handy to help with
> shop vac'ing me when we were done...

> Have fun...

My router table has a 4" hose on the cabinet and a 2" hose on the fence. They run back through maybe 10 feet of 4" duct to a 1650 cfm dust collector with a 1 micron bag.

Dust? What dust?

Best regards,
Bill

[ryanscott]

> Wait till you use that thing... hehehe..
> you're gonna see some sawdust!! I've used a
> 3/4", and MAN... I was very glad I went
> outside the garage and closed the door!! ;-)
> And wore dirty clothes, and put on full
> goggles, and had my wife handy to help with
> shop vac'ing me when we were done...

Oh, I'm sure! I can't wait to use it :) First task will be some Baltic Birch ply, not nearly as bad as MDF sawdust. But with all the cash I've spent everything, I think it's about time I bought a 99 cent mask.

[porper]

Thanks, Andy. But, how then, can you make 3/4" (or larger) roundovers?

> I doubt you would find a round-over bit
> greater than 1/2" radius with a
> 1/4" shank. It just isn't safe.

> As for speaker hole cutting, I use a
> 3/4" diameter for the flush first ,
> then change to a 1/4" for the main
> hole.

[Pete Schumacher ®]

> Thanks, Andy. But, how then, can you make
> 3/4" (or larger) roundovers?

Only 1/2" shank Routers will do what you want. Otherwise, just buy some oak quarter rounds with 3/4" radius for the baffle edges. Works great! Hard wood rugged too

[johnastockman]

> Oh, I'm sure! I can't wait to use it :)
> First task will be some Baltic Birch ply,
> not nearly as bad as MDF sawdust. But with
> all the cash I've spent everything, I think
> it's about time I bought a 99 cent mask.

Ryan, nice plywood! When you do cut some MDF, the regular dust masks aren't very adequate for MDF...maybe if you're working outside, but even then I use a particulate respirator with the replacement cartridges. That stuff is so fine, I found it getting through a regular dust mask. Anyway, looking forward to seeing your project! I'd also be interested in what you think of that router...been looking at getting a new one.

John A.

[Andy_G]

> Only 1/2" shank Routers will do what
> you want. Otherwise, just buy some oak
> quarter rounds with 3/4" radius for the
> baffle edges. Works great! Hard wood rugged
> too

My router only takes 1/4" so any big roundovers I have done, have always been using solid wood quad moldings.
I have a mill near here where they do several sizes up 50mm radius stuff.

[jeffhyder]

> My router table has a 4" hose on the
> cabinet and a 2" hose on the fence.
> They run back through maybe 10 feet of
> 4" duct to a 1650 cfm dust collector
> with a 1 micron bag.

> Dust? What dust?

> Best regards,
> Bill

me to big vac bag system and use the adjustable gate on the vacume to match the bit size and it pretty mud=ch all goes in the dust bag. If i repeat something more than a couple of times I always make a jig of some sort. repeats fast. No goofs. Unless of cours you forget what sixe bit you used when you made the jig. I try to remember to write it on the jig with a sharpie.