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unknownuser
03-18-2007, 01:10 AM
Provided Link: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=275-025


If I have 35 of them in one line array speaker?
DAYTON ND16FA-6 5/8"

2500 Hz?
3000 Hz?

I want to cross them at 2500 4th order..is it okay?

Thanks


(Originally posted by: Newbie Jo)

billfitzmaurice
03-18-2007, 09:13 AM
It depends on fs and slope. With a 12dB slope twice fs is generally recommended. With a 6th order slope you can cross just above fs, assuming response is flat to that.

johnnail
03-18-2007, 09:20 AM
> If I have 35 of them in one line array
> speaker?
> DAYTON ND16FA-6 5/8"

> 2500 Hz?
> 3000 Hz?

> I want to cross them at 2500 4th order..is
> it okay?

> Thanks
With an Fs of 2200, I would think that the lowest "safe" crossing region would be 3300hz with a 3rd or 4th order filter. Usually, the rule of generality is crossing at least 1 full octave, if not 1.5-2. full octaves, above Fs. Of course, you could try it....but I would think that you not only should use high order filter, but plan on using a Notch filter to take care of the driver's Fs...so that you don't suffer any resonance issues in the lower end. Still, it all depends on how much power you apply and how robust the coil construction is....how much is the coil going to heat up working that low....along with excursion limits.

I would determine the distance from the center of tweeter to center of woofer....that is going to determine the highest recommended crossover frequency. Realistically, if you wanted to cross that low...say 2500hz, then you should have used a larger dome tweeter with a lower Fs....

John

marlboro
03-18-2007, 09:31 AM
1. First thing you need to do is download Jim Griffin(PHD)'s white paper on nearfield line array design, which is the use of line arrays in rooms as opposed to concert halls. You can search on google by looking for "James Griffin" and "white paper" or I'll email a copy to you. If you are already into this you are ahead of the game. This is what we all use to define how line arrays have to work. Before Jim did his research no one knew the pitfalls for using a line array in a room.

2. The next step is that you need to leave an octave between the place that you cross if you use a 24 db per octave crossover.

An octave is a doubling or half of the frequency. So if you cross at 3000, an octave down is 1500, 2 octaves down is 750. 24 db/octave is pretty much silent at those frequencies.

So the the next step is the look at the frequency curve of the speaker. pushing hard more than 3db down is going to make a tweeter screech.

Zaphaudio has a frequency response graph for this tweeter at:

<A HREF="http://www.zaphaudio.com/tweetermishmash/fr.html">http://www.zaphaudio.com/tweetermishmash/fr.html</A>

Now if you're going to use 35 of them they aren't going to be putting out much, so you can probably fudge the numbers and go down 1/2 an octave. But in any case you want to not go below the FS of 2200 when you are at least 3/4 of an octave down.

Bottom line for me is that I doubt that you want to cross at below 3000hz for this little item, using 24 db/octave slope and 30 of them.

3. The size of them. Assuming that you **** them right up against each other their center to center distance is 1.30 inches.

This means using the formula 13560/1.30 inches = 10430, which means that your comb filter distortion is going to start at 10,000+ hz. This is pretty low, and clearly audible. It means that the frequency response of the highs is going to deteriorate starting there and there is nothing you can do about it. For any example of a frequency response graph showing what happens to the highs in comb filtering go here. This is an example using a speaker that has no tweeters, where the distortion starts much lower, but you could expect the same slop of drop starting around 10,500 in your tweeters:

<A HREF="http://www.audioroundtable.com/ArraySpeakers/messages/1512.html">http://www.audioroundtable.com/ArraySpeakers/messages/1512.html</A>

For how comb filter distortion sound, here is a quote by Jim Griffin here on the PE forum:

"How comb filtering sounds

"Comb lining will dull the highs and will be most noticeable in the lack of air (dull highs) especially as you move off axis. Essentially, the high frequencies are rolled off as the ensemble of the tweeter outputs don't add up but start to cancel. Now the ear is less sensitive in the upper octave (10-20 kHz) you may not observe the full impact of this effect. But if you compare to an array that is properly designed, then there is no comparison as the proper array will yield a more airy (and accurate) sound.

"Jim Griffin on PE 11-21-06"

In my opinion, you would be much better off with the ND20TA's. Cut the flanges with a scroll saw and you can get Comb filter distortion up to above 14,000hz. I'll email you a tutorial on the cutting if you wish.

In addition, you will be able to cross lower with them, and they won't screech as soon. Also compare the frequency response graph on the Zaph site between the ND20Ta and the 16 and you can see which one is flatter.

4. The next question is what you are going to use for a mid/woofer with the ND16's. If you can't cross below 3000 with them, then the mid ranges have to be able to go up to 3000. This is pretty limiting, and it means that your center to center distance between the midrange speakers cannot exceed 4.5 inches, which means that you are limited to midrange speakers of about 4 inches and down. Now this is easily possible the one of the HV models, which will run you about $10 each. You'll need about 40 of them. But it also means that you will absolutely have to have some kind of woofer into the bottom end, since you little three or 4 inchers won't go below 100hz in the best of worlds.

You have to avoid comb filtering distortion in the mid range too, which has much more serious effect on the sound even than tweeter comb filter distortion. It causes a warbling sound to the music, and serious lack of frequencies because of the cancellation of frequencies, in the very audible midrange areas.

5. Designing the crossover. Passive crossovers are difficult to design accurately. If you've followed this forum at all, you can see how this works with a fella named Paul N. O'Neal who has developed a terrific point source speaker, but who kept us informed across the board on the development of his crossover. Doing this for a line array is even harder, and you can't use something off the shelf. with all those speakers you are going to be pumping a lot of power into them, and you will also have likely a huge difference in the sensitivity between the mid and the tweets which have to be compensated for, and done so at high watt levels. Rick Craig will design one of these passive crossovers for you but his design work will cost you $300 and then you still have to buy the $200 bucks in parts. For all of these reasons and more, most line array designers use electronic crossovers, and bi- and tri- amping. You need to consider this too. I use a system that puts out a total of 1330 watts RMS and is similar to what you might be building. It has four power amps, one pre-amp, a Rane 24/db slope electronic crossover, and a 2/3 octave constant Q equalizer.
------------

As you can see, the issue that you bring up is not simply the crossover for the tweeter but the integration of the whole system. in line arrays, the integration of the whole system is much more important and especially so considering the incredible amount of work involved in making them. It took two years for me to build mine.

Here's an example of a discussion with a person who failed to pay clear attention to the integration of the system. His midranges turned out to be too big, and he had a serious drop out of frequencies between about 1600 and 2400:

<A HREF="http://www.pesupport.com/cgi-bin/config.pl?read=340023">http://www.pesupport.com/cgi-bin/config.pl?read=340023</A>

Hope this all helps, and didn't discourage you. But it would be a shame to spend all that money and the enormous time and energy building, only to have it turn out badly for you.

kind regards,

Marlboro

bobblickle
03-18-2007, 10:34 AM
Nice effort Eric! Great response. Hopefully the poster will accept your advice in the helpful spirit you intended.

bb

> 1. First thing you need to do is download
> Jim Griffin(PHD)'s white paper on nearfield
> line array design, which is the use of line
> arrays in rooms as opposed to concert halls.
> You can search on google by looking for
> "James Griffin" and "white
> paper" or I'll email a copy to you. If
> you are already into this you are ahead of
> the game. This is what we all use to define
> how line arrays have to work. Before Jim did
> his research no one knew the pitfalls for
> using a line array in a room.

> 2. The next step is that you need to leave
> an octave between the place that you cross
> if you use a 24 db per octave crossover.

> An octave is a doubling or half of the
> frequency. So if you cross at 3000, an
> octave down is 1500, 2 octaves down is 750.
> 24 db/octave is pretty much silent at those
> frequencies.

> So the the next step is the look at the
> frequency curve of the speaker. pushing hard
> more than 3db down is going to make a
> tweeter screech.

> Zaphaudio has a frequency response graph for
> this tweeter at:

>
> <A HREF="http://www.zaphaudio.com/tweetermishmash/fr.html">http://www.zaphaudio.com/tweetermishmash/fr.html</A>
> Now if you're going to use 35 of them they
> aren't going to be putting out much, so you
> can probably fudge the numbers and go down
> 1/2 an octave. But in any case you want to
> not go below the FS of 2200 when you are at
> least 3/4 of an octave down.

> Bottom line for me is that I doubt that you
> want to cross at below 3000hz for this
> little item, using 24 db/octave slope and 30
> of them.

> 3. The size of them. Assuming that you ****
> them right up against each other their
> center to center distance is 1.30 inches.

> This means using the formula 13560/1.30
> inches = 10430, which means that your comb
> filter distortion is going to start at
> 10,000+ hz. This is pretty low, and clearly
> audible. It means that the frequency
> response of the highs is going to
> deteriorate starting there and there is
> nothing you can do about it. For any example
> of a frequency response graph showing what
> happens to the highs in comb filtering go
> here. This is an example using a speaker
> that has no tweeters, where the distortion
> starts much lower, but you could expect the
> same slop of drop starting around 10,500 in
> your tweeters:

>
> <A HREF="http://www.audioroundtable.com/ArraySpeakers/messages/1512.html">http://www.audioroundtable.com/ArraySpeakers/messages/1512.html</A>
> For how comb filter distortion sound, here
> is a quote by Jim Griffin here on the PE
> forum:

> "How comb filtering sounds

> "Comb lining will dull the highs and
> will be most noticeable in the lack of air
> (dull highs) especially as you move off
> axis. Essentially, the high frequencies are
> rolled off as the ensemble of the tweeter
> outputs don't add up but start to cancel.
> Now the ear is less sensitive in the upper
> octave (10-20 kHz) you may not observe the
> full impact of this effect. But if you
> compare to an array that is properly
> designed, then there is no comparison as the
> proper array will yield a more airy (and
> accurate) sound.

> "Jim Griffin on PE 11-21-06"

> In my opinion, you would be much better off
> with the ND20TA's. Cut the flanges with a
> scroll saw and you can get Comb filter
> distortion up to above 14,000hz. I'll email
> you a tutorial on the cutting if you wish.

> In addition, you will be able to cross lower
> with them, and they won't screech as soon.
> Also compare the frequency response graph on
> the Zaph site between the ND20Ta and the 16
> and you can see which one is flatter.

> 4. The next question is what you are going
> to use for a mid/woofer with the ND16's. If
> you can't cross below 3000 with them, then
> the mid ranges have to be able to go up to
> 3000. This is pretty limiting, and it means
> that your center to center distance between
> the midrange speakers cannot exceed 4.5
> inches, which means that you are limited to
> midrange speakers of about 4 inches and
> down. Now this is easily possible the one of
> the HV models, which will run you about $10
> each. You'll need about 40 of them. But it
> also means that you will absolutely have to
> have some kind of woofer into the bottom
> end, since you little three or 4 inchers
> won't go below 100hz in the best of worlds.

> You have to avoid comb filtering distortion
> in the mid range too, which has much more
> serious effect on the sound even than
> tweeter comb filter distortion. It causes a
> warbling sound to the music, and serious
> lack of frequencies because of the
> cancellation of frequencies, in the very
> audible midrange areas.

> 5. Designing the crossover. Passive
> crossovers are difficult to design
> accurately. If you've followed this forum at
> all, you can see how this works with a fella
> named Paul N. O'Neal who has developed a
> terrific point source speaker, but who kept
> us informed across the board on the
> development of his crossover. Doing this for
> a line array is even harder, and you can't
> use something off the shelf. with all those
> speakers you are going to be pumping a lot
> of power into them, and you will also have
> likely a huge difference in the sensitivity
> between the mid and the tweets which have to
> be compensated for, and done so at high watt
> levels. Rick Craig will design one of these
> passive crossovers for you but his design
> work will cost you $300 and then you still
> have to buy the $200 bucks in parts. For all
> of these reasons and more, most line array
> designers use electronic crossovers, and bi-
> and tri- amping. You need to consider this
> too. I use a system that puts out a total of
> 1330 watts RMS and is similar to what you
> might be building. It has four power amps,
> one pre-amp, a Rane 24/db slope electronic
> crossover, and a 2/3 octave constant Q
> equalizer.
> ------------

> As you can see, the issue that you bring up
> is not simply the crossover for the tweeter
> but the integration of the whole system. in
> line arrays, the integration of the whole
> system is much more important and especially
> so considering the incredible amount of work
> involved in making them. It took two years
> for me to build mine.

> Here's an example of a discussion with a
> person who failed to pay clear attention to
> the integration of the system. His midranges
> turned out to be too big, and he had a
> serious drop out of frequencies between
> about 1600 and 2400:

>
> <A HREF="http://www.pesupport.com/cgi-bin/config.pl?read=340023">http://www.pesupport.com/cgi-bin/config.pl?read=340023</A>
> Hope this all helps, and didn't discourage
> you. But it would be a shame to spend all
> that money and the enormous time and energy
> building, only to have it turn out badly for
> you.

> kind regards,

> Marlboro

unknownuser
03-18-2007, 11:48 AM
> 1. First thing you need to do is download
> Jim Griffin(PHD)'s white paper on nearfield
> line array design, which is the use of line
> arrays in rooms as opposed to concert halls.
> You can search on google by looking for
> "James Griffin" and "white
> paper" or I'll email a copy to you. If
> you are already into this you are ahead of
> the game. This is what we all use to define
> how line arrays have to work. Before Jim did
> his research no one knew the pitfalls for
> using a line array in a room.

> 2. The next step is that you need to leave
> an octave between the place that you cross
> if you use a 24 db per octave crossover.

> An octave is a doubling or half of the
> frequency. So if you cross at 3000, an
> octave down is 1500, 2 octaves down is 750.
> 24 db/octave is pretty much silent at those
> frequencies.

> So the the next step is the look at the
> frequency curve of the speaker. pushing hard
> more than 3db down is going to make a
> tweeter screech.

> Zaphaudio has a frequency response graph for
> this tweeter at:

>
> <A HREF="http://www.zaphaudio.com/tweetermishmash/fr.html">http://www.zaphaudio.com/tweetermishmash/fr.html</A>
> Now if you're going to use 35 of them they
> aren't going to be putting out much, so you
> can probably fudge the numbers and go down
> 1/2 an octave. But in any case you want to
> not go below the FS of 2200 when you are at
> least 3/4 of an octave down.

> Bottom line for me is that I doubt that you
> want to cross at below 3000hz for this
> little item, using 24 db/octave slope and 30
> of them.

> 3. The size of them. Assuming that you ****
> them right up against each other their
> center to center distance is 1.30 inches.

> This means using the formula 13560/1.30
> inches = 10430, which means that your comb
> filter distortion is going to start at
> 10,000+ hz. This is pretty low, and clearly
> audible. It means that the frequency
> response of the highs is going to
> deteriorate starting there and there is
> nothing you can do about it. For any example
> of a frequency response graph showing what
> happens to the highs in comb filtering go
> here. This is an example using a speaker
> that has no tweeters, where the distortion
> starts much lower, but you could expect the
> same slop of drop starting around 10,500 in
> your tweeters:

>
> <A HREF="http://www.audioroundtable.com/ArraySpeakers/messages/1512.html">http://www.audioroundtable.com/ArraySpeakers/messages/1512.html</A>
> For how comb filter distortion sound, here
> is a quote by Jim Griffin here on the PE
> forum:

> "How comb filtering sounds

> "Comb lining will dull the highs and
> will be most noticeable in the lack of air
> (dull highs) especially as you move off
> axis. Essentially, the high frequencies are
> rolled off as the ensemble of the tweeter
> outputs don't add up but start to cancel.
> Now the ear is less sensitive in the upper
> octave (10-20 kHz) you may not observe the
> full impact of this effect. But if you
> compare to an array that is properly
> designed, then there is no comparison as the
> proper array will yield a more airy (and
> accurate) sound.

> "Jim Griffin on PE 11-21-06"

> In my opinion, you would be much better off
> with the ND20TA's. Cut the flanges with a
> scroll saw and you can get Comb filter
> distortion up to above 14,000hz. I'll email
> you a tutorial on the cutting if you wish.

> In addition, you will be able to cross lower
> with them, and they won't screech as soon.
> Also compare the frequency response graph on
> the Zaph site between the ND20Ta and the 16
> and you can see which one is flatter.

> 4. The next question is what you are going
> to use for a mid/woofer with the ND16's. If
> you can't cross below 3000 with them, then
> the mid ranges have to be able to go up to
> 3000. This is pretty limiting, and it means
> that your center to center distance between
> the midrange speakers cannot exceed 4.5
> inches, which means that you are limited to
> midrange speakers of about 4 inches and
> down. Now this is easily possible the one of
> the HV models, which will run you about $10
> each. You'll need about 40 of them. But it
> also means that you will absolutely have to
> have some kind of woofer into the bottom
> end, since you little three or 4 inchers
> won't go below 100hz in the best of worlds.

> You have to avoid comb filtering distortion
> in the mid range too, which has much more
> serious effect on the sound even than
> tweeter comb filter distortion. It causes a
> warbling sound to the music, and serious
> lack of frequencies because of the
> cancellation of frequencies, in the very
> audible midrange areas.

> 5. Designing the crossover. Passive
> crossovers are difficult to design
> accurately. If you've followed this forum at
> all, you can see how this works with a fella
> named Paul N. O'Neal who has developed a
> terrific point source speaker, but who kept
> us informed across the board on the
> development of his crossover. Doing this for
> a line array is even harder, and you can't
> use something off the shelf. with all those
> speakers you are going to be pumping a lot
> of power into them, and you will also have
> likely a huge difference in the sensitivity
> between the mid and the tweets which have to
> be compensated for, and done so at high watt
> levels. Rick Craig will design one of these
> passive crossovers for you but his design
> work will cost you $300 and then you still
> have to buy the $200 bucks in parts. For all
> of these reasons and more, most line array
> designers use electronic crossovers, and bi-
> and tri- amping. You need to consider this
> too. I use a system that puts out a total of
> 1330 watts RMS and is similar to what you
> might be building. It has four power amps,
> one pre-amp, a Rane 24/db slope electronic
> crossover, and a 2/3 octave constant Q
> equalizer.
> ------------

> As you can see, the issue that you bring up
> is not simply the crossover for the tweeter
> but the integration of the whole system. in
> line arrays, the integration of the whole
> system is much more important and especially
> so considering the incredible amount of work
> involved in making them. It took two years
> for me to build mine.

> Here's an example of a discussion with a
> person who failed to pay clear attention to
> the integration of the system. His midranges
> turned out to be too big, and he had a
> serious drop out of frequencies between
> about 1600 and 2400:

>
> <A HREF="http://www.pesupport.com/cgi-bin/config.pl?read=340023">http://www.pesupport.com/cgi-bin/config.pl?read=340023</A>
> Hope this all helps, and didn't discourage
> you. But it would be a shame to spend all
> that money and the enormous time and energy
> building, only to have it turn out badly for
> you.

> kind regards,

> Marlboro



(Originally posted by: Newbie Jo)