how to protect surface when routing?

[charlielaub]

I'm using the Jasper Jig to route some driver holes and flange recesses in to my baffles. I'm worried about scratching the finish on the cabinets (I am using pre-finished PE cabinets). Does anyone apply something (e.g. masking tape) to the finished surface of the baffle face before routing it to protect against circular scratches that might happen when the jig rotates over it?

[DougP]

> I'm using the Jasper Jig to route some
> driver holes and flange recesses in to my
> baffles. I'm worried about scratching the
> finish on the cabinets (I am using
> pre-finished PE cabinets). Does anyone apply
> something (e.g. masking tape) to the
> finished surface of the baffle face before
> routing it to protect against circular
> scratches that might happen when the jig
> rotates over it?

I have never done this but I have heard that covering your work area with some low tack shelf paper works well.

Doug

[dzach]

I too have heard that shelf paper works well.

I used that blue (low stick) masking tape since I did not have any shelf paper and it worked well. Although after several router passes, it eventually started to peal up and stick to the jasper.

Either should be fine, just be sure to remote within a day or two otherwise it might bond with the black lacquer and remove it.

dzach

> I have never done this but I have heard that
> covering your work area with some low tack
> shelf paper works well.

> Doug

[philiparcario]

> I too have heard that shelf paper works
> well.

> I used that blue (low stick) masking tape
> since I did not have any shelf paper and it
> worked well. Although after several router
> passes, it eventually started to peal up and
> stick to the jasper.

> Either should be fine, just be sure to
> remote within a day or two otherwise it
> might bond with the black lacquer and remove
> it.

> dzach
poster board works or if you are an oldtimer like me oaktag same product differnet name. phil

[danklugherz]

> I'm using the Jasper Jig to route some
> driver holes and flange recesses in to my
> baffles. I'm worried about scratching the
> finish on the cabinets (I am using
> pre-finished PE cabinets). Does anyone apply
> something (e.g. masking tape) to the
> finished surface of the baffle face before
> routing it to protect against circular
> scratches that might happen when the jig
> rotates over it?

I've tried low tack, it didn't work very well. I then went to regular white shelf paper and this worked much better. You should have no problem with removing it after routering, just don't leave it on the baffle for more than you need to.

HTH
Dan

[marvin]

I recently used the white shelf paper, claimed to be easy on and off. It worked very well, router cut clean edges. It came off cleanly when removed except for one area beneath a sheet I left on for a number of days. So don't leave it on longer than you need to.

Easy to draw on, too.

Marvin

> I've tried low tack, it didn't work very
> well. I then went to regular white shelf
> paper and this worked much better. You
> should have no problem with removing it
> after routering, just don't leave it on the
> baffle for more than you need to.

> HTH
> Dan

[johnastockman]

http://custom.smugmug.com/photos/11538327-L.jpg


> I'm using the Jasper Jig to route some
> driver holes and flange recesses in to my
> baffles. I'm worried about scratching the
> finish on the cabinets (I am using
> pre-finished PE cabinets). Does anyone apply
> something (e.g. masking tape) to the
> finished surface of the baffle face before
> routing it to protect against circular
> scratches that might happen when the jig
> rotates over it?

The shelf paper works well for me, but make sure it's the "paper" kind and not the plastic. I've gotten the best results with the Duck brand. The adhesive isn't too agressive. I used some of the plastic variety and I spent more time cleaning off the adhesive residue than I did routing the recesses and thru-holes. Here's a pic of the sticky plastic stuff.

John A.

[jonpike]

> I've tried low tack, it didn't work very
> well. I then went to regular white shelf
> paper and this worked much better. You
> should have no problem with removing it
> after routering, just don't leave it on the
> baffle for more than you need to.

> HTH
> Dan

Somewhere on Zaph's site, I believe he mentions a brand name for a shelf paper for this use. I think it's a regular paper type as well...