Just a couple questions

[victor]

1. When mounting a woofer would it be better to use screws with more threads per inch or less or would it not matter?
Example: I have a 10" car sub in a 0.95ft^3 sealed enclosure. Enclosure is made of 3/4" mdf. I currently have 1" screws with 7 thread per inch and there seems to be a lot of leaking around the driver. I can switch to 1" 13 thread per inch screws. Though I'm sure I have a huge variety of different types and sizes that I could use. Just has to be thinner gauge as a fatter screw or bolt just won't fit the driver.

2. If a speaker manufacture labels a driver as having a mid "Q" design, or specifying anything to do with the Q for that matter.. Are they referring to Qts?
*No importance to this question, I'm really just curious about this.

3. Lastly, I need to replace my current set of speakers soon (left speaker has a blown tweeter and right speaker has a dying woofer in which the coil is starting to rub on the pole, audibly.)
I've been looking at the 8" Dayton woofs, not too sure about which tweets to choose though. My current speakers have 6" woof and 2.5" tweet and some really cheap inaudible piezo super tweets (possibly fried). I'll try to get some pics to show what I have.
As for building up some new ones.. I just prefer something that can handle whatever power I can push into them. Current speakers are 150 watts music power at 6 ohm. 8 ohm would probably be better and would have to handle at least 40 watts rms from my Sansui 6060. Though I'm hoping to get another receiver to use for 5.1 for HT use. Would I be better off going vented, sealed or what about t-line? How would I go about designing a t-line? I'm using BassBox6 Pro and WinISD and it appears that neither program has that option.

[Dirk]

> 1. When mounting a woofer would it be better
> to use screws with more threads per inch or
> less or would it not matter?
> Example: I have a 10" car sub in a
> 0.95ft^3 sealed enclosure. Enclosure is made
> of 3/4" mdf. I currently have 1"
> screws with 7 thread per inch and there
> seems to be a lot of leaking around the
> driver. I can switch to 1" 13 thread
> per inch screws. Though I'm sure I have a
> huge variety of different types and sizes
> that I could use. Just has to be thinner
> gauge as a fatter screw or bolt just won't
> fit the driver.

I don't know why that would make any difference. The threads, no matter the count, should be biting deeply into the MDF and in tight mechanical fit with the wood all the way around. In fact, I'd be inclined to use the low-count screws, since they're less likely to strip loose from the MDF. What kind of gasketing are you using? Could that be where the air is leaking?

> 2. If a speaker manufacture labels a driver
> as having a mid "Q" design, or
> specifying anything to do with the Q for
> that matter.. Are they referring to Qts?
> *No importance to this question, I'm really
> just curious about this.

Yep. And remember that Q always goes up when you put it in a sealed box. The compliance of the air in the box gets added to the driver's Qts to come up with Qtc.