Some Progress...Small 2.5-way

[jclin4]

Well the cabs are complete on my Tiny TiMMs project. Nik B. built the boxes and I veneered with hickory NBL from formwood and walnut edgebanding from veneersupplies. It's what I call the N. American hardwoods theme. 4 coats of wipe-on satin clear poly, sanding with 220 in between each coat.

I have the drivers (RS100's and Vifa DQ25) but no crossover parts yet. I expect to be placing an order soon...

Cheers,
- John

[Mayhem13]

Excellent veneer contrasts..these are truly a work of art!:D

[Audio-itis]

WOW.......NICE!!!!!

were do you get screws holding back on???

[jclin4]

Thanks guys. The access panel is secured by connector bolts from Rockler, minus the cap nuts. I'm using threaded inserts instead.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=368

http://images.rockler.com/rockler/images/31831-03-200.jpg

[tomzarbo]

Nice looking cabinets.

That hickory has some real character to it. Was the bevel difficult to do? I've done some veneering, but mostly 90 degree angles.

TomZ

[jclin4]

Nice looking cabinets.

That hickory has some real character to it. Was the bevel difficult to do? I've done some veneering, but mostly 90 degree angles.

TomZ

I love the results when trimming veneer with a router and a flush trim bit, but obviously you can't do that with bevels. So gotta use a veneer saw:

http://www.woodcraft.com/images/products/15S05tmb.jpg

No, it wasn't difficult at all, just more sanding. Bill Schneider gave me a good tip: you have to sharpen the thing on a stone before using it. ;)

[gorbs]

very nice !!!

[tom_s]

NICE! I love that hickory! Did you do the bevels 1st, trim them flush with the saw, then do the faces? How was the NBL stuff to work with?

Tom

[Wolf]

Well the cabs are complete on my Tiny TiMMs project. Nik B. built the boxes and I veneered with hickory NBL from formwood and walnut edgebanding from veneersupplies. It's what I call the N. American hardwoods theme. 4 coats of wipe-on satin clear poly, sanding with 220 in between each coat.

I have the drivers (RS100's and Vifa DQ25) but no crossover parts yet. I expect to be placing an order soon...

Cheers,
- John

Lookin' good!
Wolf

[jclin4]

NICE! I love that hickory! Did you do the bevels 1st, trim them flush with the saw, then do the faces? How was the NBL stuff to work with?

Tom

Yes, that's exactly the order, and I used the veneer saw again on the faces after they were laid down. BTW, I used the iron-on method with white Elmer's all-purpose glue, and it worked really well.

White PVA does not have a time limit on re-activation, while Titebond I and II cannot be re-heated after certain time periods. I needed this because I tended to work on the project a bit, walk away for a few days and then come back and do some more: just poking along. The white glue also has a lower re-activation temperature, reducing the risk of burning the veneer (probably a low risk anyway).

NBL is stiffer than paper-backed veneer. This affected the trimming of the driver holes after the baffle was veneered. I tried cutting it with a sharp knife, but it was too thick. Then I tried to use Nik's method of simply bending the veneer until it cracks, but began to fret about it splitting outside of the hole. So router to the rescue!

http://www.woodcraft.com/Images/products/813646_230.jpg

The key is the short pilot on the bit.

[badman]

Beautiful work, but why did you match the veneer from top to side on one but not the other?

[jclin4]

Beautiful work, but why did you match the veneer from top to side on one but not the other?

Yes this was a definite mistake. For both speakers, I cut the top faces to match the sides. But the bottom faces never matched the sides, and I must have grabbed the wrong piece when gluing on the veneer.

Why did I veneer the bottoms? The plan is to deploy these to the kitchen, and there is a possibility that they may be hung high from brackets (at least this is what the wife wants, but still TBD).

[gowa]

Wow!

[Thezeek]

Zeek digs!!!