Mini Surrounds Build

[davepellegrene]

After a bad start this week with my truck getting totaled I figured rather than driving my wife to work,total 3 hours two trips, to get her car. I would stay home and build a TV cabinet for a customer. Not an hour into it she calls me tells me her furniture came it doesn't fit stop the cabinet. OK no big deal I will find something else to do. Had this nice 2" x 8" x 8' rough cut piece of cherry I have had for about 12 years,been eying it to build my Mini Surrounds with. Went and got it cut it up into 11" lengths ran it through my planner and it turns out to be black walnut. Everything in my house is cherry including my Mini Statements.




http://lh4.ggpht.com/_lY-Ky2SsZ6U/Sqp88Em9HUI/AAAAAAAACz8/wEUaOnIDafQ/Surrounds1.JPG
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_lY-Ky2SsZ6U/Sqp88HEwwwI/AAAAAAAAC0A/tkg5Mg2rSFI/Surrounds2.JPG
Well, I have some wood to build my daughters cd rack with do I dare attempt it.:)
Dave

[davepellegrene]

Started building the boxes this weekend and thought it was worth mentioning. I found some more Walnut in my basement to build the boxes out of. It was an 1 1/4" thick. Figured if I ripped it down to 5/8" I would have enough to build all the boxes. Since there has been so many posts on table saws and blades I thought I would share this. I ripped these 5" wide boards in half with my Rigid table saw that I only set up ones when I got it new. I used an 80 tooth Freud thin curf blade, without any stablizers, that I just bought. Before I used it on the walnut I built some closet units out of Melamine. I cut up 13 4x8 sheets to do the job. Then I cut the walnut. Paid $49 dollars for the blade and $500 for the saw. It did such a nice job a can barely see saw cuts in the wood.
Thought this was pretty cool!
Dave

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_lY-Ky2SsZ6U/SsFhTaPI8iI/AAAAAAAAC2Q/JsWiD7jJvA4/milling%20cab.%20for%20mini%20surrounds.JPG
Unfortunately my camera isn't working and had to use my phone. Couldn't get any better pic.

[rogoll]

The Freud blades seem to produce the most consistently good cuts. I wish I had the caliber of wood products "just laying around" that you have.

[WayneN]

I just finished laying close to 750 square feet of Oak flooring and I used a Freud 80 tooth 10” for all the cutting and switching between the chop saw and table saw then my son asked if I could cut some 4” x 8” Cherry and that blade cut through like butter. I was just looking at some 5/4 x 8” wide Black Walnut on sale for $6.99 a board foot, nice stuff at our local Windsor Plywood. I ended up leaving with 6 sheets of ¾” 13 ply Birch 4'x8' on sale for $39.99 a sheet for my future cabinets for my garage :-)

Looking forward to seeing the Mini Surrounds done with the Walnut

WayneN

[davepellegrene]

I just finished laying close to 750 square feet of Oak flooring and I used a Freud 80 tooth 10” for all the cutting and switching between the chop saw and table saw then my son asked if I could cut some 4” x 8” Cherry and that blade cut through like butter. I was just looking at some 5/4 x 8” wide Black Walnut on sale for $6.99 a board foot, nice stuff at our local Windsor Plywood. I ended up leaving with 6 sheets of ¾” 13 ply Birch 4'x8' on sale for $39.99 a sheet for my future cabinets for my garage :-)

Looking forward to seeing the Mini Surrounds done with the Walnut

WayneN

Yeah, for the money I don't think you can beat the Freud blades. The only thing I have found that will eat them up is the Laminated floating floors.
I have two peices of oak 2 1/4" thick by roughly 10" to 14" wide by 8' long. Still has bark on both sides. They would make some great baffles. Not sure if I will ever do anything with them. Not really into oak. Kind of tired of it.
Dave

[WayneN]

Dave,

The Oak depending on which flavor it is might look nice as baffles with the Walnut?
Depending on your atmospheric conditions I would plane the boards then cut strips and laminate them to the required width this way you wont have to worry about any cracking or splitting after you done all that work.

Nice job on the re-sawing of the Walnut BTW!

WayneN

[davepellegrene]

Dave,

The Oak depending on which flavor it is might look nice as baffles with the Walnut?
Depending on your atmospheric conditions I would plane the boards then cut strips and laminate them to the required width this way you wont have to worry about any cracking or splitting after you done all that work.

Nice job on the re-sawing of the Walnut BTW!

WayneN

That is a good idea, but already started my baffles. Here is a pic of the baffles rough cut and the boxes made.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_lY-Ky2SsZ6U/SsZ38KaRz4I/AAAAAAAAC3Y/9P-Ar7VeA0c/Baffle%20and%20Box%20rough%20cut.JPG
Need to get my camera fixed. My phone isn't doing so good.
Dave

[mzisserson]

Screw the speaker design, I wish I had 1/2 your woodworking skills! Looks very nice, the wood looks old too, not the fast-grown new stuff you see on veneers. I like it... alot. Walnut is one of my fav's.

[WayneN]

That is a good idea, but already started my baffles. Here is a pic of the baffles rough cut and the boxes made.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_lY-Ky2SsZ6U/SsZ38KaRz4I/AAAAAAAAC3Y/9P-Ar7VeA0c/Baffle%20and%20Box%20rough%20cut.JPG
Need to get my camera fixed. My phone isn't doing so good.
Dave

Dave,

The walnut sure looks nice, I like the curve at the top of the baffle, how are you planning to attach the baffle? Also how thick is it? Will the baffle be fixed and a removable back?

WayneN

[davepellegrene]

This was a couple of really nice pieces of walnut. The baffles are 2" thick. I may plow out the inside and make them 3/4" thick to gain some volume, but leave the edges so they still look 2" thick. Not sure yet how I am going to attach the baffles. My big concern is the top of the baffle will be glued cross grain to the top piece so I may have some issues with expansion and contraction. Being they are only 6" wide shouldn't be to much trouble. I may put a few biscuits across the top and bottom. I think I am going to make the rear panel removable out of MDF painted satin black. I planned on a 3/4" round over on the sides. This will also be a vented design. Still not sure if it will be a slot vent on the front or just a round vent on the rear.
Dave

[WayneN]

Dave,

I see what you’re saying about the opposing grains; as long as your planed surfaces are true they should but! tightly together nicely. As for the expansion and contraction possibilities it all depends on the age and the moisture contend of your wood and like you said they’re only 6” wide, I’m sure they’ll be fine..
The height looks like to be about 12-14”?

Curiosity is getting the best of me, what will be going in these?

I checked out your webpage; Wow you do nice work!

I hope you don’t mind I sent you a PM with some questions about something on your web page.

WayneN

[davepellegrene]

Dave,

I see what you’re saying about the opposing grains; as long as your planed surfaces are true they should but! tightly together nicely. As for the expansion and contraction possibilities it all depends on the age and the moisture contend of your wood and like you said they’re only 6” wide, I’m sure they’ll be fine..
The height looks like to be about 12-14”?

Curiosity is getting the best of me, what will be going in these?

I checked out your webpage; Wow you do nice work!

I hope you don’t mind I sent you a PM with some questions about something on your web page.

WayneN

Sent you a PM. Need anymore info let me know.
I have had the wood in my basement for about 12 years so they should be pretty stable. They are 11" tall. They are going to be surrounds. I am going to put an RS100-4 and a ND20FA crossed at 35KHz in them. Vented tuned to either 62Hz or 72Hz. I used WinISD and got 177 in^3 at 62Hz. I just downloaded WinISD Pro and got 195in^3 at 72Hz, so not sure which one is right. The boxes are 197 in^3 without taking out for vent, drivers or xover components. I can gain about 38 in^3 by plowing out the inside of the baffle. I may do this anyway just to make it easier to allow for air flow for the woofer. Plus make them a little lighter. I haven't ordered drivers yet so I have to wait. Still in the big search for a new truck right know. Looks like I maybe taking a road trip for that.
Dave

[davepellegrene]

Anybody want to take a look and see if my Xover looks ok. The one question I have is I am using a third order parallel on the tweeter using an 88 uF cap. It aligns the woofer phase from 200 to 2.7khZ. If I take it out and go to second order parallel the tweeter phase drops off to about -80 degrees at 200hZ and stays alighned at 2.7khZ, and the total response stays the same. I would rather not use the cap if the phase alignment isn't that critical at that frequency. Any other suggestions? I zipped the frd and zma files and loaded them if they are needed.
Thanks Dave


http://lh6.ggpht.com/_lY-Ky2SsZ6U/St_EDh4YeOI/AAAAAAAAC5c/FFlMZFnH7QQ/s912/PCD%20Response%20Chart.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_lY-Ky2SsZ6U/St_ED02o4jI/AAAAAAAAC5g/Fg6166AQiqw/s912/PCD%20Low%20Pass%20Filter.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_lY-Ky2SsZ6U/St_ED2FVpkI/AAAAAAAAC5k/cg4eBdeUiKc/s912/PCD%20High%20Pass%20Filter.JPG

[romanbednarek]

The tweeter phase only need to be aligned with the woofer phase in the region where both drivers are contributing to the overall response. In other words, once each driver is down about 20-30dB or so, even if it is 180 degrees out of phase it will be too low to cancel with the other driver.

[davepellegrene]

The tweeter phase only need to be aligned with the woofer phase in the region where both drivers are contributing to the overall response. In other words, once each driver is down about 20-30dB or so, even if it is 180 degrees out of phase it will be too low to cancel with the other driver.

Thanks Roman. That cap was $20 and about the size of a beer can. Well a little smaller. Here is a pic without it.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_lY-Ky2SsZ6U/St_THIKT8uI/AAAAAAAAC5s/wNHNyLo_CG4/s720/PCD%20Response%20Chart%201.JPG

[romanbednarek]

Thanks Roman. That cap was $20 and about the size of a beer can. Well a little smaller. Here is a pic without it.

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_lY-Ky2SsZ6U/St_THIKT8uI/AAAAAAAAC5s/wNHNyLo_CG4/s720/PCD%20Response%20Chart%201.JPG

Yeah, that looks fine below the crossover point. I guess that my only concern would be the cancellation that you are getting between the woofer and tweeter at the top end. It is a fairly common occurance for some cancellation above the crossover point in some designs. However, you might find that with your design, there is a different vertical listening axis where those drivers combine constructively rather than destructively and you'll find that there is a peak in that region from that listening axis. One trick that I've used with Speaker Workshop to investigate different vertical listening axes is to adjust the z-offset of the tweeter to emulate that situation (moving the tweeter forward from the baffle emulates a higher listening axis and moving the tweeter backwards into the baffle emulates a lower listening axis.... it all has to do with the fact that if you stand up, for instance, your ears will be closer to the tweeter than the woofer relative to listening on the design axis).

[davepellegrene]

I centered the vertical axis and the off axis response is much better. I now have a dip in the crossover region. I will work on that latter got to go make money.:)


Yeah, that looks fine below the crossover point. I guess that my only concern would be the cancellation that you are getting between the woofer and tweeter at the top end. It is a fairly common occurance for some cancellation above the crossover point in some designs. However, you might find that with your design, there is a different vertical listening axis where those drivers combine constructively rather than destructively and you'll find that there is a peak in that region from that listening axis. One trick that I've used with Speaker Workshop to investigate different vertical listening axes is to adjust the z-offset of the tweeter to emulate that situation (moving the tweeter forward from the baffle emulates a higher listening axis and moving the tweeter backwards into the baffle emulates a lower listening axis.... it all has to do with the fact that if you stand up, for instance, your ears will be closer to the tweeter than the woofer relative to listening on the design axis).

[romanbednarek]

I centered the vertical axis and the off axis response is much better. I now have a dip in the crossover region. I will work on that latter got to go make money.:)

A common trick to fix this type of cancellation is to increase the slope of the woofer above the crossover frequency (near where the cancellation begins) so that even though the phase alignment diverges even more, the woofer's response is attenuated enough so that it doesn't interfere with the tweeter's response.

[Dirk]

A common trick to fix this type of cancellation is to increase the slope of the woofer above the crossover frequency (near where the cancellation begins) so that even though the phase alignment diverges even more, the woofer's response is attenuated enough so that it doesn't interfere with the tweeter's response.

I think 3rd order on the tweeter is a good idea. It'll help account for the differing acoustic offset. What's the notch for on the tweeter?

I'd consider knee-ing those off by increasing the size of the respective shunt cap / shunt coil.

[davepellegrene]

A common trick to fix this type of cancellation is to increase the slope of the woofer above the crossover frequency (near where the cancellation begins) so that even though the phase alignment diverges even more, the woofer's response is attenuated enough so that it doesn't interfere with the tweeter's response.

I have been fighting with that the whole time. If you notice on the last graph there is a peak at 12khZ on the woofer. If I lesson the slope on the woofer to bring up the response at the crossover point of 3.5khZ it puts a peak in the response at 12dhZ. If I lower it to get the peak out I get a dip at the crossover point at 3.5khZ. Even at 15dB down you can see it in the tweeter.

[davepellegrene]

I think 3rd order on the tweeter is a good idea. It'll help account for the differing acoustic offset. What's the notch for on the tweeter?

I'd consider knee-ing those off by increasing the size of the respective shunt cap / shunt coil.

I pretty much try everything until I figure out what makes the graph do what I want it to. The notch seems to let me shape the tweeter better. The resistor seems to adjust from 10k on up. The coil adjusts the lower end of the slope. The cap seems to adjust in between. It seems the crossover components change the phase, so if I want to adjust without changing the phase the notch seems to do that. Unfortunately I can't look at a graph and know what to put into it to get it to do what I want. No electronics back ground, but I am learning, sloooooowwwwwly! This is good therapy for an old brain, well a brain from the 70's.

What does knee-ing those off mean? What would the advantage be?

[Dirk]

I pretty much try everything until I figure out what makes the graph do what I want it to. The notch seems to let me shape the tweeter better. The resistor seems to adjust from 10k on up. The coil adjusts the lower end of the slope. The cap seems to adjust in between. It seems the crossover components change the phase, so if I want to adjust without changing the phase the notch seems to do that. Unfortunately I can't look at a graph and know what to put into it to get it to do what I want. No electronics back ground, but I am learning, sloooooowwwwwly! This is good therapy for an old brain, well a brain from the 70's.

What does knee-ing those off mean? What would the advantage be?

On the woofer, the shunt coil affects the shape response just to the left of the XO point. Increase TOO much, and you get a resonant "knee" and actually a rise in response, but you'll see when you've gone too far. Try increasing its value some without touching the series coil and watch how it changes the rolloff.

Likewise, on the tweeter, try this: 3.3uF/.25mH/4uF. Also, remove the notch, add a normal L-pad. Use about a 4ohm series & 4ohm parallel. I'm guessing as to the attenuation required and might be off on those a bit but it should be in the right neighborhood. You may need to fiddle with the L-pad one way or the other some.

You can use that "knee" behavior sometimes to shape the top end of a tweeter. If you have a tweeter with a rising top end, use a good dollop of series resistance in the L-pad and then use a sharper knee in the highpass to basically lift the lower region near the XO point. Sometimes it works, sometimes it's arse. But it doesn't hurt to try!

[romanbednarek]

I pretty much try everything until I figure out what makes the graph do what I want it to. The notch seems to let me shape the tweeter better. The resistor seems to adjust from 10k on up. The coil adjusts the lower end of the slope. The cap seems to adjust in between. It seems the crossover components change the phase, so if I want to adjust without changing the phase the notch seems to do that. Unfortunately I can't look at a graph and know what to put into it to get it to do what I want. No electronics back ground, but I am learning, sloooooowwwwwly! This is good therapy for an old brain, well a brain from the 70's.

What does knee-ing those off mean? What would the advantage be?

I might have some suggestions regarding the woofer filter. You'll definitely need a series inductor and the larger the value, the more baffle step compensation you'll have (and with designs this small I usually go with the maximum 6 dB of BSC). If you look at my Microbe designs, I used a series LC notch filter placed in parallel with the woofer. There are several different L/C values that will provide the same notch frequency yet will give you a different slope below the notch (I used a smaller inductor and larger capacitor in the RS28 version which provided a wider notch and lower crossover point).

Now it is tough to predict if my simple topology would work well with your design, but there are modifications that can be made to compensate. You can add a resistor to the series notch filter (in series with the L and C) in order to widen the notch yet reduce the amount of attenuation. You'll probably want to locate the notch pretty high in frequency to remove the interaction that you are getting near 10-15kHz which may require more than just the series inductor in the circuit (in other words, always put the notch in parallel with the woofer, then you could try a 2nd order electrical filter ahead of that by adding the shunt capacitor... if the slope is too steep in that case add a resistor in series with that capacitor, a larger resistor will result in a shallower slope relative to the combination of values used in the original and SE Microbe designs which require a higher crossover point).

Hopefully all of my suggestions can be translated from text to a circuit and even then there are a lot of possibilities in terms of component values. My intentions with these suggestions is to first attenuate the very top end of the woofer so that it no longer interferes with the tweeter in any way and then be able to achieve the proper woofer slope to allow for good phase integration with the tweeter (with flat baffle designs you usually want a steeper slope on the tweeter than on the woofer and the trick is to use the notch filter to attenuate the top end of the woofer while still achieving a shallow enough slope below that point for good phase integration). I'm not sure how difficult that tweeter is to work with but I've never had to use a notch filter on any tweeter that I've worked with and the majority of my designs use 3rd order electrical filters with resistors in various places for attenuation.

I'll let you try to absorb some of this info and experiment to see if anything works for you but let me know if you have questions. If you get frustrated you can send me the processed .frd and .zma files for both drivers and I can experiment with the crossover simulation (it is something that I enjoy doing, I just hate the frd/zma processing part).

[davepellegrene]

Dirk, I see what you mean about the knee. Did as you suggested with the tweeter, third order, series and parallel resistors. You seem to be fairly close on the values, still tweaking, but looks better already.

Roman, I understand what you are saying. I will try out your suggestions and see how they work.


I'll see what I can do with all the new info. Thanks for taking the time to help out.
Dave

[Dirk]

Dirk, I see what you mean about the knee. Did as you suggested with the tweeter, third order, series and parallel resistors. You seem to be fairly close on the values, still tweaking, but looks better already.


No problem. I normally wouldn't spout out values like that, but I just spent the last two weeks working on a crossover for the ND20FB and an inefficient 4" wideband driver. The values were fresh in my head. :D My L-pad is different than yours, but I figured it'd get you in the right ballpark.

[eyekode]

Started building the boxes this weekend and thought it was worth mentioning. I found some more Walnut in my basement to build the boxes out of. It was an 1 1/4" thick. Figured if I ripped it down to 5/8" I would have enough to build all the boxes. Since there has been so many posts on table saws and blades I thought I would share this. I ripped these 5" wide boards in half with my Rigid table saw that I only set up ones when I got it new. I used an 80 tooth Freud thin curf blade, without any stablizers, that I just bought. Before I used it on the walnut I built some closet units out of Melamine. I cut up 13 4x8 sheets to do the job. Then I cut the walnut. Paid $49 dollars for the blade and $500 for the saw. It did such a nice job a can barely see saw cuts in the wood.
Thought this was pretty cool!
Dave

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_lY-Ky2SsZ6U/SsFhTaPI8iI/AAAAAAAAC2Q/JsWiD7jJvA4/milling%20cab.%20for%20mini%20surrounds.JPG
Unfortunately my camera isn't working and had to use my phone. Couldn't get any better pic.

Wow, I cannot believe an 80 tooth blade can resaw without burning the wood.

The cabinets look great too. Are the corners mitered? Any reinforcement?
Thanks!
Salem

[davepellegrene]

Wow, I cannot believe an 80 tooth blade can resaw without burning the wood.

The cabinets look great too. Are the corners mitered? Any reinforcement?
Thanks!
Salem

Yes they are mitered. I will probably put two window braces in and a removable MDF back panel. I took two passes on sawing the panels in half. 1" deep cut, flipped the piece, rip the other side, then reset to 2 1/4", then ripped both sides again. Had I made the full depth cut at ones it probably would have burned.
Dave

[davepellegrene]

Here is my latest. See anything I should fix or may have problems with?
Dave

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_lY-Ky2SsZ6U/SuJ2vRobUoI/AAAAAAAAC50/6nnWb8prPp8/s912/PCD%20Response%20Chart%202.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_lY-Ky2SsZ6U/SuJ2vUsfjPI/AAAAAAAAC54/4qY4hbeCqbM/s912/PCD%20Low%20Pass%20Filter%202.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_lY-Ky2SsZ6U/SuJ2vkerkwI/AAAAAAAAC58/NdJW959Ir8w/s912/PCD%20High%20Pass%20Filter%202.JPG

[Dirk]

Your summed response has some issues. Notice how the tweeter's response (red) is above the summed response? That means that the woofer is still contributing some to the sound. It also explains a few things about the wonky power response. Back your dB zoom out a bit and it'll be easier to see.

Decrease C9 & C10 and increase L9? Are you sure you have good phase data in your FRD files?

You might also need to pull the woofer back some. Roll it off just a wee bit sooner.

[davepellegrene]

Your summed response has some issues. Notice how the tweeter's response (red) is above the summed response? That means that the woofer is still contributing some to the sound. It also explains a few things about the wonky power response. Back your dB zoom out a bit and it'll be easier to see.

Decrease C9 & C10 and increase L9? Are you sure you have good phase data in your FRD files?

You might also need to pull the woofer back some. Roll it off just a wee bit sooner.

I lowered the peak in the woofer from 70dB to 65dB and changed the tweeter as you said. I think. How do I verify if I have good phase data?
In the tweeter pic I cut off the parallel resister. It is 10.85 Ohms.
Thanks Dave

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_lY-Ky2SsZ6U/SuKC212DvqI/AAAAAAAAC6I/nnox2ayqrsY/s720/PCD%20Response%20Chart%203.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_lY-Ky2SsZ6U/SuKC2wrCj2I/AAAAAAAAC6M/W7h6C2mD8jM/s912/PCD%20Low%20Pass%20Filter%203.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_lY-Ky2SsZ6U/SuKC22_474I/AAAAAAAAC6Q/SwwkYaWkAXc/s912/PCD%20High%20Pass%20Filter%203.JPG

[davepellegrene]

I decided to retrace my graphs and run them back through Response Modeler and make new files. These look much closer to the charts from PE. Not sure why they are different, but they looked real close to the originals when I imported them in to RM. They were also easier to work with in PCD. I came out a little low on the bottom end. The baffle defraction seems to lower it. Not sure why on that either. Nine parts total.


http://lh4.ggpht.com/_lY-Ky2SsZ6U/SuPRf2D9txI/AAAAAAAAC7I/fQAvA5m3sAc/s720/Response%20Chart%20Pic.JPG

[Dirk]

Much better. You can still see a tiny bit of the treble being sucked out by the woofer's breakup. You could try adding a zobel with a small cap (maybe 6uF) to drop the woofer's impedance in the top octaves and make the existing lowpass more effective in that region. You could even use EE caps for it since it's in parallel with the woofer it won't hurt a thing.

I might also suggest a smidge more padding on the tweet. Otherwise, time to load up the cart and whip out the credit card! :D

[davepellegrene]

Much better. You can still see a tiny bit of the treble being sucked out by the woofer's breakup. You could try adding a zobel with a small cap (maybe 6uF) to drop the woofer's impedance in the top octaves and make the existing lowpass more effective in that region. You could even use EE caps for it since it's in parallel with the woofer it won't hurt a thing.

I might also suggest a smidge more padding on the tweet. Otherwise, time to load up the cart and whip out the credit card! :D

I was getting tired last night tweaking and kind of gave up at that point. I do have a Zobel in the woofer, with a 2uF cap. I raised it up to 12uF and it didn't seem to change the dip at 8k or 15k. I assume you are talking about the one at 15k and if so I can't here above 13.5k anyway.

What is a EE cap?

I padded the tweeter down. I do have a 10uFcap on the tweeter. It seems to bring the phase into alignment and also flatten the peaks at 2.5khZ.

What timing. I got the shopping cart loaded ready to hit the button. My wife says. What would you like for your birthday.:D So I sent her a link to my shopping cart. Cool!!

Here's what I think is the last final gaph's
Dave

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_lY-Ky2SsZ6U/SuTH6OOArWI/AAAAAAAAC8U/fcayIbkJ6lo/s640/Response%20Graph%20Pic.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_lY-Ky2SsZ6U/SuTH6fsRMZI/AAAAAAAAC8Y/uPkvg7ZvWxk/s912/Low%20Pass%20Graph%20Pic.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_lY-Ky2SsZ6U/SuTH6Xjh2dI/AAAAAAAAC8c/FV1phjMVz3M/s912/High%20Pass%20Graph%20Pic.JPG

[Dirk]

I assume you are talking about the one at 15k and if so I can't here above 13.5k anyway.


Cheater! Really, though, it's a pretty small thing. You'll never be sitting in the sweet spot to detect that slight interference anyway. Overall, you've got good smooth power response and, for a surround speaker, that's a VERY good thing to have.

What is a EE cap? Electrolytic. The cheap ones, not the more expensive polypropylene that normally get used for crossovers. Personally, I think you can use EEs all through the lowpass without sonic degredation. The only two problems with them is that they usually have poor tolerances (they tend to be higher than spec) and that they do have a max shelf life of some 15 years or so.

Hope they turn out! Now get back to that gorgeous cabinetry.

[davepellegrene]

Cheater! Really, though, it's a pretty small thing. You'll never be sitting in the sweet spot to detect that slight interference anyway. Overall, you've got good smooth power response and, for a surround speaker, that's a VERY good thing to have.

What is a EE cap? Electrolytic. The cheap ones, not the more expensive polypropylene that normally get used for crossovers. Personally, I think you can use EEs all through the lowpass without sonic degredation. The only two problems with them is that they usually have poor tolerances (they tend to be higher than spec) and that they do have a max shelf life of some 15 years or so.

Hope they turn out! Now get back to that gorgeous cabinetry.

I noticed the off axis seems better then I have seen before. I can go over 20 degrees in either direction and the only change is the top octive,about 6 dBs. Is this what a good power response does?

[davepellegrene]

Some cabinet progress today. Plowed out the back of the baffle to make it 1 1/8" thick instead of 1 7/8". Cut out the driver holes and relief cuts for the woofer. Hopefully I can get the baffles glued to the the boxes tomorrow.
Dave


http://lh6.ggpht.com/_lY-Ky2SsZ6U/Sut5y6d_jhI/AAAAAAAAC8k/qlRVAmEVID4/Baffle%20relief%20cuts.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_lY-Ky2SsZ6U/Sut5zNs_hSI/AAAAAAAAC8o/uPzgYXzLAMY/Baffle%20driver%20cut%20outs.JPG

[WayneN]

Some cabinet progress today. Plowed out the back of the baffle to make it 1 1/8" thick instead of 1 7/8". Cut out the driver holes and relief cuts for the woofer. Hopefully I can get the baffles glued to the the boxes tomorrow.
Dave


http://lh6.ggpht.com/_lY-Ky2SsZ6U/Sut5y6d_jhI/AAAAAAAAC8k/qlRVAmEVID4/Baffle%20relief%20cuts.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_lY-Ky2SsZ6U/Sut5zNs_hSI/AAAAAAAAC8o/uPzgYXzLAMY/Baffle%20driver%20cut%20outs.JPG

Dave,

I don’t dare comment on the crossover as it’s still all Greek to me :o
Baffles sure look nice with the drivers in them, are you going to chamfer or round over the edges when you glue them onto the cabinets or leave them as they are?

WayneN

[davepellegrene]

Dave,

I don’t dare comment on the crossover as it’s still all Greek to me :o
Baffles sure look nice with the drivers in them, are you going to chamfer or round over the edges when you glue them onto the cabinets or leave them as they are?

WayneN

I am going to put a 3/4" round over on them after gluing them to the boxes. I didn't really want the round over on the top but since I did the curved top on the baffle I don't have any choice. I don't like the idea of rounding over a 45 degree miter.
These are also going to be vented so I have to decide if I want to vent out the front or back and if I want round or slot. I was thinking of heating a piece of ABS and flattening it into an oval then venting out the front.

[WayneN]

Dave,

Thanks for the PM, I’m the type of person that needs to see it actually being done so I might take a weekend class in the spring at one of the high schools in Edmonton on how to do it, can always learn a few other things as well.

I’ve never rounded over a 45 degree miter myself, come to think of it I don’t recall ever seeing that, might look odd? Slot vent would also look nice on the front, might be less work for you than making an oval especially four of them, or is it possible to go with two small round vents?
How will you attach the baffle?

Regarding the crossover, bear with me please, the tweeter is 6 ohms and the woofer is 4 ohms and trying to interpret the graphs it looks to be somewhere around 6 ohms overall? And the overall db is around 83? Now the part that hurts the brain is, what is the overall KHz at I know you mentioned 35 KHz what did you end up with and how do I interpret it from which graph?

Still haven’t gotten my books yet neither set up my new measurement system or played with any of the programs, still have to paint all the baseboards, casings and jambs and new doors and hang them no time for playing yet :(

Thanks again,

WayneN

[davepellegrene]

Dave,

Thanks for the PM, I’m the type of person that needs to see it actually being done so I might take a weekend class in the spring at one of the high schools in Edmonton on how to do it, can always learn a few other things as well.

I’ve never rounded over a 45 degree miter myself, come to think of it I don’t recall ever seeing that, might look odd? Slot vent would also look nice on the front, might be less work for you than making an oval especially four of them, or is it possible to go with two small round vents?
How will you attach the baffle?

Regarding the crossover, bear with me please, the tweeter is 6 ohms and the woofer is 4 ohms and trying to interpret the graphs it looks to be somewhere around 6 ohms overall? And the overall db is around 83? Now the part that hurts the brain is, what is the overall KHz at I know you mentioned 35 KHz what did you end up with and how do I interpret it from which graph?

Still haven’t gotten my books yet neither set up my new measurement system or played with any of the programs, still have to paint all the baseboards, casings and jambs and new doors and hang them no time for playing yet :(

Thanks again,

WayneN

Wayne,
The queen ann legs are really easy to make. I know what you mean needing to see it being done rather then reading and trying to understand it.
My last couple projects I did a slot vent, so I was thinking about the oval vent just to do something a little different. As far as rounding over the 45 degree bevels I think they will look ok as long as they are tight joints all the way through. We'll see.
I will attach the baffle just with wood glue and clamps. That should hold fine.
I am new at the crossover simulating myself. Basically I tried to keep the impedance above 4 ohms and I think I ended up at 300hZ dropping to 3.93. You are right on the total sensitivity it is 83.2. Not sure what you mean on the 35hZ. I have the cabinets tuned to 62hZ, which is done in WinISD, and my crossover point is 3.5khZ and that shows in the system response chart were the dark blue line crosses the red line. The biggest problem I had with this set up was the peak at 15khZ in the woofer(blue line). It would creep up and cause a dip in the tweeter at 15khZ. If you look you can still see it a little bit.

With winter on its way you will have plenty of time to play. I see you are north of me and its already setting in here. I was just looking at my unstained and finished doors I hung oh about 6 years ago!
Dave

[WayneN]

Dave,

I have heat in our new garage/shop now so I could play with scraps over the winter and if the legs don’t turn out they go in the fire pit, then I seek help! Typo on my part should have been 3.5 KHz not 35, (vents) different is always good. The 45’s sure look tight; it will definitely be a first for my eyes, hopefully it goes well on the beautiful wood and cabinetry. I get the 3.5 KHz now by you pointing it out on the response graph, you’ve lost me on the 15KHz dip, once I get my new measurement system made and the programs loaded and I get my books I know that it will come to me:confused: I have an idea of where you are on the map; yes we have had early winter like weather for the past few weeks, all of our outside projects (sidewalks & sod) are on hold now till the spring :-( The freezing rain has stopped and it’s a balmy +2C so now I can go out and finish the soffit and fascia on our new shed. 6 years, you must have a very patient, loving and understanding wife :)

BTW did you get that new truck yet?

Thanks again,

WayneN

[davepellegrene]

Dave,

I have heat in our new garage/shop now so I could play with scraps over the winter and if the legs don’t turn out they go in the fire pit, then I seek help! Typo on my part should have been 3.5 KHz not 35, (vents) different is always good. The 45’s sure look tight; it will definitely be a first for my eyes, hopefully it goes well on the beautiful wood and cabinetry. I get the 3.5 KHz now by you pointing it out on the response graph, you’ve lost me on the 15KHz dip, once I get my new measurement system made and the programs loaded and I get my books I know that it will come to me:confused: I have an idea of where you are on the map; yes we have had early winter like weather for the past few weeks, all of our outside projects (sidewalks & sod) are on hold now till the spring :-( The freezing rain has stopped and it’s a balmy +2C so now I can go out and finish the soffit and fascia on our new shed. 6 years, you must have a very patient, loving and understanding wife :)

BTW did you get that new truck yet?

Thanks again,

WayneN

Got the new truck two weeks ago. What a nightmare that whole ordeal was.

Got the ports done. worked out great. Not going to glue them in until I get the length right. Picked up a thin wall pvc, heated it with my heat gun, squeezed it in the vise to size then let cool.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_lY-Ky2SsZ6U/SuyBlJ69C7I/AAAAAAAAC8w/vZeRP2CDEjQ/drilling%20slot%20port%20front%20pic.JPG

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_lY-Ky2SsZ6U/SuyBlcSp2yI/AAAAAAAAC88/imfsl2pvht4/port%20tube%20cut%20out.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_lY-Ky2SsZ6U/SuyBysCBSNI/AAAAAAAAC9I/bETYrjKXP6I/slot%20port%20install%20front%20pic.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_lY-Ky2SsZ6U/SuyBlboEswI/AAAAAAAAC9A/HfIqm1YyQ2U/port%20tube%20install%20front%20pic.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_lY-Ky2SsZ6U/SuyBleS6XPI/AAAAAAAAC84/rQ3xK-W-2NY/Glue%20baffle%20to%20box.JPG

[WayneN]

Wow the ports sure turned out nice, what kid of bit did you use in the drill press, forstner bit? How or what did you use to scallop the back side for the woofer opening?

WayneN

[davepellegrene]

Wow the ports sure turned out nice, what kid of bit did you use in the drill press, forstner bit? How or what did you use to scallop the back side for the woofer opening?

WayneN

I did use a forsner bit for the slots. Just moved over a 1/16" at a time.

I did the relief cuts for the woofer openings with an 1 1/4" drum sander in my cordless drill. I first tried a chamfering bit. I chucked it in the router so only a 1/2" was up in the collet so it would reach down into the baffle. As soon as it hit that hard walnut it came flying out. Sounded worse then it was, but I bailed on that set up real quick. It actually went pretty fast with the drum sander.

I should get the cabinets sanded tomorrow then get started on the crossovers.

[rogoll]

I did use a forsner bit for the slots. Just moved over a 1/16" at a time.

I did the relief cuts for the woofer openings with an 1 1/4" drum sander in my cordless drill. I first tried a chamfering bit. I chucked it in the router so only a 1/2" was up in the collet so it would reach down into the baffle. As soon as it hit that hard walnut it came flying out. Sounded worse then it was, but I bailed on that set up real quick. It actually went pretty fast with the drum sander.

I should get the cabinets sanded tomorrow then get started on the crossovers.

Did you use some kind of a jig with the drum sander, or just "freehand" it? It looks really nice (and very consistent, if you did it freehand).

[davepellegrene]

Did you use some kind of a jig with the drum sander, or just "freehand" it? It looks really nice (and very consistent, if you did it freehand).

I did it free hand. I put pencil marks were the screws will be and tried to stay in the middle of them.
Dave

[patrickm]

Got the ports done. worked out great. Not going to glue them in until I get the length right. Picked up a thin wall pvc, heated it with my heat gun, squeezed it in the vise to size then let cool.


one lesson i learned on my last set of glued-on pvc ports was to spraypaint the inside with the krylon plastic-paint (or equivalent) in a dark color. i used real wood too, and in mine, the black plastic looked less obtrusive than the white. just a thought....

[davepellegrene]

one lesson i learned on my last set of glued-on pvc ports was to spraypaint the inside with the krylon plastic-paint (or equivalent) in a dark color. i used real wood too, and in mine, the black plastic looked less obtrusive than the white. just a thought....

I was thinking the same thing. All the hardware store had was white and I wanted to cut the ports in the wood, but wasn't sure I could bend the pipe right. I thought I better try before I cut the baffle.
I may go get a piece of black and make up some new ones.
I didn't know krylon made a paint for plastic. That might be easier in the long run.
Thanks for the advice
Dave

[davepellegrene]

Got the cabinets rough sanded. The grain looks much nicer then the pic shows. I will have to try some more light. Still using my cell phone for pics.
Starting the crossovers tonight.
Dave


http://lh5.ggpht.com/_lY-Ky2SsZ6U/Su-cXaYMl7I/AAAAAAAAC9Y/p5IyKuDm82c/Cabinets%20unfinished%20with%20speakers.JPG

[joeybutts]

Those
look
fantastic.

Port wiring FTW! ;)

Beautiful work.

[hempy]

Oh wow.

Wow.

Those are gorgeous.

And very much something I like. So minimal, and sharp, yet unbelievably organic and round. Bravo. I can wait to see them with some color.

What type of finish are you going to be using on these?

[davepellegrene]

Oh wow.

Wow.

Those are gorgeous.

And very much something I like. So minimal, and sharp, yet unbelievably organic and round. Bravo. I can wait to see them with some color.

What type of finish are you going to be using on these?

Thanks You. I like to keep things simple but different.

I will probably use a semi gloss varnish. Not sure if I am going to stain. If I do it will only be to take out some of the purple color of the walnut so they go better with my cherry main speakers.

[Wolf]

Thanks You. I like to keep things simple but different.

I will probably use a semi gloss varnish. Not sure if I am going to stain. If I do it will only be to take out some of the purple color of the walnut so they go better with my cherry main speakers.

The Krylon "Fusion" paint bonds chemically to plastics, and it's great for other things too. I pretty much solely use that for my projects as it'sa better paint than the regular Krylon line. Too bad not all the colors are available in that line.
Later,
Wolf

[dougjohnson]

Thanks You. I like to keep things simple but different.

I will probably use a semi gloss varnish. Not sure if I am going to stain. If I do it will only be to take out some of the purple color of the walnut so they go better with my cherry main speakers.

Consider either shellac or my favorite: Sam Maloof's oil. 1/3 pure tung oil, 1/3 boiled linseed oil, and 1/3 oil based poly. Wipe on a heavy coat. Wait till it is all soaked in, wipe off, let dry for 24 hours. Repeat 3 or 4 times. It will not all soak in the later times, so wipe off after about 10 minutes.

This yields a very soft, close to the wood finish that really pops the grain in the wood and looks about a mile deep. It is slightly brown, so will probably cut the purple in the walnut.

-- Doug

[rogoll]

Consider either shellac or my favorite: Sam Maloof's oil. 1/3 pure tung oil, 1/3 boiled linseed oil, and 1/3 oil based poly. Wipe on a heavy coat. Wait till it is all soaked in, wipe off, let dry for 24 hours. Repeat 3 or 4 times. It will not all soak in the later times, so wipe off after about 10 minutes.

This yields a very soft, close to the wood finish that really pops the grain in the wood and looks about a mile deep. It is slightly brown, so will probably cut the purple in the walnut.

-- Doug

I'm sure you're all aware, but for the sake of less experienced, carefully dispose of those rags in a ziploc bag with water in it. I had some spontaniously combust in a trash can years ago when I was first getting started with wood finishing.:o

[davepellegrene]

I have always been in the habit of laying the rags over the trash can until they dry. Another thing I do is pour all my left over thinners from clean up into a container and let it evaporate. Any cans I leave the lids off and let them dry out before throwing away.

I think I will pick up a can of the Krylon and try it out. I brushed the backs with some satin finish oil I had left from a job. Didn't flow out so good with the cheap chip brush I used. I can redo those the same time I spray the port tubes.


As far as the finish goes I like to spray it on. I have always had good luck with Vangaurds Vano-o-varn quick dry finish. Here is a pic from a table I built about 15 years ago with this finish on it. Still holding up great.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_lY-Ky2SsZ6U/SZevaQ2zbXI/AAAAAAAACDs/3E_JNo0tqS0/s640/My%20house%20003.jpg

[WayneN]

Got the cabinets rough sanded. The grain looks much nicer then the pic shows. I will have to try some more light. Still using my cell phone for pics.
Starting the crossovers tonight.
Dave


http://lh5.ggpht.com/_lY-Ky2SsZ6U/Su-cXaYMl7I/AAAAAAAAC9Y/p5IyKuDm82c/Cabinets%20unfinished%20with%20speakers.JPG

Awesome!

Dave, I had an image in my head that you would be able to see a seam where you did the 45’s with the round over, boy was I wrong….

WayneN

[davepellegrene]

Awesome!

Dave, I had an image in my head that you would be able to see a seam where you did the 45’s with the round over, boy was I wrong….

WayneN

There is a seam. You just cant see it because of the bad pic. It really doesn't look bad. I think when they are finished it won't attract your attention at all. I will try to get a good shot on them tomorrow.

Got my crossovers temporarily hooked up tonight. I think they sound great. The tuning seems right on from what I modeled. Tomorrow I will take some measurements to see whats going on. I listened to them for about 20 minutes. The imaging is really good. Hopefully they measure good. We'll see
Dave

[davepellegrene]

Got two of them finished this weekend. I also think I have a finished crossover. Have to listen some more but sounds good.
Dave


http://lh3.ggpht.com/_lY-Ky2SsZ6U/Svg6Il-sjnI/AAAAAAAAC_g/xd_jWINOq6E/Cabinet%20varnish%20finished.JPG

[hulan]

Those are gorgeous! Post pics with the drivers in the cabs. Amazing job!

[hulan]

My wife said, "Those are pretty." She can be a real critic so that's a great compliment.

[rogoll]

Got two of them finished this weekend. I also think I have a finished crossover. Have to listen some more but sounds good.
Dave


http://lh3.ggpht.com/_lY-Ky2SsZ6U/Svg6Il-sjnI/AAAAAAAAC_g/xd_jWINOq6E/Cabinet%20varnish%20finished.JPG

Those are some of the most beautiful speakers I've seen!

[davepellegrene]

Those
look
fantastic.

Port wiring FTW! ;)

Beautiful work.

Some how I missed your post.
Thanks for the complement. I know its simple, but I can't figure it out. What is FTW?
Dave

[davepellegrene]

My wife said, "Those are pretty." She can be a real critic so that's a great compliment.

I have a critic here as well, so I have to be creative to get speakers into the living room.

[davepellegrene]

Those are some of the most beautiful speakers I've seen!

Thanks Rogoll.

Its great to hear positive feed back. I really don't know what I am doing, so I am not sure whats going to come out in the end. I think that's whats enjoyable about it.
Dave

[dewhite]

Some how I missed your post.
Thanks for the complement. I know its simple, but I can't figure it out. What is FTW?
Dave

FTW is geek speak for a winning idea - literally "For The Win" as in, to score a winning goal...

I'm really looking forward to your final thoughts on these. I have been waiting for someone to do something worthwhile with the RS100 drivers. Had you planned to compile all of the information regarding enclosure dimensions, crossover components and construction, etc when you are done?

I think I could probably piece most of it together by going back over the thread, but I wouldn't want to misinterpret any important details...

[WayneN]

Got two of them finished this weekend. I also think I have a finished crossover. Have to listen some more but sounds good.
Dave


http://lh3.ggpht.com/_lY-Ky2SsZ6U/Svg6Il-sjnI/AAAAAAAAC_g/xd_jWINOq6E/Cabinet%20varnish%20finished.JPG

WOW Dave,

Those look fantastic; they will definitely blend well with the rest of
your décor, going by the picture of the hardwood floors and that
beautiful table. I see now what you’re saying about the seam, gives
them a little extra character ;)
Looks like a satin finish? What did you use BTW?

WayneN

[davepellegrene]

FTW is geek speak for a winning idea - literally "For The Win" as in, to score a winning goal...

I'm really looking forward to your final thoughts on these. I have been waiting for someone to do something worthwhile with the RS100 drivers. Had you planned to compile all of the information regarding enclosure dimensions, crossover components and construction, etc when you are done?

I think I could probably piece most of it together by going back over the thread, but I wouldn't want to misinterpret any important details...

FTW? Never would have figured that one out. Usually my daughter tells me, but couldn't find her.

I will have all the info on these in my link below. At first I was a little disappointed in the RS100. It didn't seem to keep up very well with the ND20FA , but after about my fifth tweak on the crossover it kind of came alive. I have never had a small speaker before, so maybe I was expecting to much out of it. I do see what people mean about small speakers image better then large ones. This may also have to do with it being a two way. Easier for a beginner to tweak. I do believe I have the crossover were I want it. Roman got me on the right track with it from the beginning, so I will shoot my version to him with some thoughts and get his intake on them. I am also anxious to get them out of my basement and into a smaller room to see how they sound.
Dave

forgot; Dirk helped me get the tweater going the right direction

[davepellegrene]

WOW Dave,

Those look fantastic; they will definitely blend well with the rest of
your décor, going by the picture of the hardwood floors and that
beautiful table. I see now what you’re saying about the seam, gives
them a little extra character ;)
Looks like a satin finish? What did you use BTW?

WayneN

Thanks Wayne. I ended up not putting any stain on them. I sealed them with a product called Quick 15.
http://www.zinsser.com/pdf/TDB/quick15.pdf
It has a nice high build character to it. Dries fast and sands really easy. I shot two coats on them 15 minutes apart, then let them dry over night. I probably could have got by with one coat or maybe thinned it down a little more.
I then shot one coat thinned down of Vangaurd Van-o-varn.
http://www.vanguardpaints.com/products/finishes5.htm
This is a really nice product. I have been using it for years. I have used it on several kitchens I have built and it holds up great. I talked to a kitchen builder a few years ago that used conversion varnishes and went to it and says it seems to hold up just as good.
It's getting hard to find. Flanagan & Nist use to carry it, but they seem to be disappearing in this area. Vanguard is only south of me about a hundred miles if all else fails.
I did use a satin finish. After thinking it over a bit I thought the semi may give it some what of a plastic look.
Dave

[davepellegrene]

Here is a couple pics with the drivers in. Can you tell my daughters phone, single speaker at night, to my phone, both speakers will day light. At least my phone is made to drop and kick across the floor and still work fine:D
Dave

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_lY-Ky2SsZ6U/SvoXuBNRaWI/AAAAAAAADDw/WE7A8xbv3wA/s512/Finished%20speaker%20pic.JPG

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_lY-Ky2SsZ6U/Svr7clo7yjI/AAAAAAAADFY/G2dTVhnZDMY/Finish%20speaker%20pic2.JPG

[mattp]

Those really are gorgeous Dave, just like all of your other work. Nice job!

[lunchmoney]

Simply wonderful.

Unique form, great finish, impeccable craftsmanship.

A-fricking-plus.

[davepellegrene]

Thanks for the complements Mat and Lunch.

Now if I can get them to sound as good as they look I will be set. Having some bass issues at the moment. Roman has given me some things to try out.

Not really sure if I am having a problem or I am just not use to little speakers. We will see.
Dave

[davepellegrene]

Finally got them done! After removing the 12 dBs of baffle step I originally modeled into them. Oops! I ended up with about 5 dBs to get the efficiency up to 79dBs. I put them next to my Mini Statements as a comparison and they seemed to be lacking in the 4Khz range so I tweaked them up about 2 dBs there and that helped quit a bit. It was a little hard comparing them since the Mini Statements are more efficient. They must be around 85dBs or more.
My daughter liked the vocals better out of my surrounds then the Mini's, but she said the instruments were clearer out of the Mini's. FWIW.
All in all it was a great learning experience and that's why I built them.
Here is a link to pics of the build
http://picasaweb.google.com/pelegrn/MiniSurroundSpeakersCurrentSpeakerBuild#
Now on to Jeff B.s Continuum's:D
I am messing around with granite for cabinet sides. Should be interesting.
Dave

[rogoll]

Finally got them done! After removing the 12 dBs of baffle step I originally modeled into them. Oops! I ended up with about 5 dBs to get the efficiency up to 79dBs. I put them next to my Mini Statements as a comparison and they seemed to be lacking in the 4Khz range so I tweaked them up about 2 dBs there and that helped quit a bit. It was a little hard comparing them since the Mini Statements are more efficient. They must be around 85dBs or more.
My daughter liked the vocals better out of my surrounds then the Mini's, but she said the instruments were clearer out of the Mini's. FWIW.
All in all it was a great learning experience and that's why I built them.
Here is a link to pics of the build
http://picasaweb.google.com/pelegrn/MiniSurroundSpeakersCurrentSpeakerBuild#
Now on to Jeff B.s Continuum's:D
I am messing around with granite for cabinet sides. Should be interesting.
Dave

What kind of granite? The countertop stuff?

[Wolf]

Nicely done, Dave! Fairly simple networks, decent plots, and a self-wound coil!!! I have to ask why you wound it yourself?

Later,
Wolf

[davepellegrene]

What kind of granite? The countertop stuff?

Yes probably the ones from Lowes.

[davepellegrene]

Nicely done, Dave! Fairly simple networks, decent plots, and a self-wound coil!!! I have to ask why you wound it yourself?

Later,
Wolf

That was a coil I had from a pair of Eclipse speakers I had from the 80's. I picked up an LCR meter and unwound the coil to what I needed. I thought it was kind of interesting the speakers had three coils in each one that looked self wound. I just figured thats how they did it back then.
Dave

[WayneN]

I have a spare few minutes before I have to go out again and blow out a few more neighbors, we got walloped with about 30 centimeters of our first snow fall yesterday :eek:

I like trying new finishes so I sent an email to both Zinsser and Vanguard, hopefully their products are available in the grater Edmonton area?

What are the Continuum's I must be ignorant I couldn’t find anything in the search?

WayneN

[davepellegrene]

I have a spare few minutes before I have to go out again and blow out a few more neighbors, we got walloped with about 30 centimeters of our first snow fall yesterday :eek:

I like trying new finishes so I sent an email to both Zinsser and Vanguard, hopefully their products are available in the grater Edmonton area?

What are the Continuum's I must be ignorant I couldn’t find anything in the search?

WayneN

I have been lucky with no accumulation so far. My drive is gravel and takes four wheel drive to get out without snow.

I just used a product from lowes for recoating a hardwood floor and really liked it. I will venture up to my shop later and let you know what it is. I still have to finish my other two surround speakers. I am going to try it on them. If it flows nice on a floor it should do great on a cabinet.

The Continuum's are a design Jeff did and brought to InDIYana this past summer. They have an unbelievable sound for a small speaker. Here is a link that he posted a pic of them. Post #24.
http://techtalk.parts-express.com/showthread.php?t=214157&page=2
He was gracious enough to share the design with me, so I can build a set for myself. So I will have another set of awsome speakers that I can compare my builds to. Man I am setting myself up. Who knows maybe some day I will get close with a design.
Dave

[WayneN]

I have been lucky with no accumulation so far. My drive is gravel and takes four wheel drive to get out without snow.

I just used a product from lowes for recoating a hardwood floor and really liked it. I will venture up to my shop later and let you know what it is. I still have to finish my other two surround speakers. I am going to try it on them. If it flows nice on a floor it should do great on a cabinet.

The Continuum's are a design Jeff did and brought to InDIYana this past summer. They have an unbelievable sound for a small speaker. Here is a link that he posted a pic of them. Post #24.
http://techtalk.parts-express.com/showthread.php?t=214157&page=2
He was gracious enough to share the design with me, so I can build a set for myself. So I will have another set of awsome speakers that I can compare my builds to. Man I am setting myself up. Who knows maybe some day I will get close with a design.
Dave

Spent all day Saturday and Sunday blowing out most of our back alley and the front street to the main road and eleven neighbors and 4 tanks of gas, WOW 1 thank you :confused:
Lowes is just coming into Canada; I think there’s a couple out East, the finish for the hard wood floors should be very durable, if it turns out good I would like to know the brand name.
The Continuum sure is a nice looking speaker, love to see your version when you’re done.

Thanks again,

WayneN

[WayneN]

I have been lucky with no accumulation so far. My drive is gravel and takes four wheel drive to get out without snow.

I just used a product from lowes for recoating a hardwood floor and really liked it. I will venture up to my shop later and let you know what it is. I still have to finish my other two surround speakers. I am going to try it on them. If it flows nice on a floor it should do great on a cabinet.

The Continuum's are a design Jeff did and brought to InDIYana this past summer. They have an unbelievable sound for a small speaker. Here is a link that he posted a pic of them. Post #24.
http://techtalk.parts-express.com/showthread.php?t=214157&page=2
He was gracious enough to share the design with me, so I can build a set for myself. So I will have another set of awsome speakers that I can compare my builds to. Man I am setting myself up. Who knows maybe some day I will get close with a design.
Dave

Dave,

Did you get a chance to try that new finish on your 2nd set of Mini Surrounds? Curious as to how it turned out?

WayneN

[davepellegrene]

Dave,

Did you get a chance to try that new finish on your 2nd set of Mini Surrounds? Curious as to how it turned out?

WayneN

I did spray them this week, but it wasn't with the stuff from Lowes I was talking about. The floor finish from Lowes was Cabots. I remember know there wasn't much left so I left it with the customer for touch up.
I used these that were left over from the wall unit I just did. I can say I didn't like them on either project.
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_lY-Ky2SsZ6U/SvyQ7ymwheI/AAAAAAAADHU/eJ8DYxLJe5s/Lower%20wall%20unit55.JPG

Next time I am in Lowes I will look to see what I bought.
Dave