Hurricane/T-Nuts?

[johnnyrichards]

My Iowa project will have a removable baffle and I heard rumours that hurricane nuts work well for this type of application. Who uses them? The baffle will be attached to the skinny side of a piece of poplar 1 x.

Will the 8-32 (http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=081-1080) hurricane nuts provide any kind of holding torque?

I can get socket cap screws at work (shhhhh!), of any size, but maybe I need to go to a number 10? What is the diameter of the base on these products? I would like to attach at the center of the 1x, which leaves me a maximum diameter of 3/4"

Any help and advice would be appreciated :)

[skatz]

The one time I tried them I had trouble with the nuts spinning and not allowing me to tighten up. I couldn't get at them either because I had sandwiched them in between two boards that were glued together. I did glue the nuts with urethane glue but it didn't prevent the spinning. Wolf reported the same thing with them.

Steve

[neildavis]

The one time I tried them I had trouble with the nuts spinning and not allowing me to tighten up. I couldn't get at them either because I had sandwiched them in between two boards that were glued together. I did glue the nuts with urethane glue but it didn't prevent the spinning. Wolf reported the same thing with them.

Steve

I like the self-tapping hex-drive threaded inserts. They require a larger hole, but you don't have to worry about head clearance. They are much better for hardwoods and plastics than T-nuts or hurricane nuts--don't use enough MDF to say whether they are better for that.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#threaded-inserts/=81tenk

[Face]

I agree, self tapping nuts at the way to go.

[mikela]

The one time I tried them I had trouble with the nuts spinning and not allowing me to tighten up. I couldn't get at them either because I had sandwiched them in between two boards that were glued together. I did glue the nuts with urethane glue but it didn't prevent the spinning. Wolf reported the same thing with them.

Steve

There are certainly other options available, however, I haven't had a problem as long as I ran a tap through the threads and cleaned off the machining oil with rubbing alcohol. I also counter sunk mine in a bore and then used polyurethane glue. Somewhat labor intensive but no chance of them spinning.

http://www.htguide.com/forum/attachment.php4?attachmentid=12613

[DIYNut42]

I've had good luck with hurricane nuts in anything 1/4-20 and over in size. Anything maller than that, and I agree the self tapping nuts are the way to go. If you have a spare allen wrench you don't mind cutting, cut the long straight end and chuck it in a drill press. Puts the self tappers in good and straight. :)

[bmaupin]

I've used them for removable baffle fastening and they are fine like for fastening drivers. What is important is to use a drill for the hole that is the same size as the shaft so the tongs can fully grab. If you do glue them in place, be sure to attach the baffle and screw into them since a little bit of misalignment makes them hard to screw in to. I used the 10/32 hnuts since that was the screws I had on hand - use whatever is handy and any size will provide plenty of clamping force - the more the better to evenly clamp.

The h-nuts have a 3/4" diameter for the "washer".

Here are some uses: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/showthread.php?t=216807

[Flint]

I'm a believer in brass threaded inserts, as above in the link to McMaster-Carr (self-tapping knife-thread slotted drive). To make the installation go smoothly you need the power driver tool. Even at #8-32 the holding power is very good. They grip MDF better than a hurricane / propeller nut and are less likely to spin.