Tritrix HT Build with Ceiling Bracket Design

[Soundslike]

This will be my first build post, though I've put together a set of Tritrix MTM TLs before this somewhat ambitious build. The goal was to build a home theater setup for my daughter, and a two channel stereo setup for my son, and their families of course. The HT setup will also include a subwoofer, that I was able to design with help from the experts on this board. The front two channels will utilize the transmission line variant, and the center and surrounds will utilize the vented version. I will make the cabinets rather than use the knock-down kit offered. I should hasten to add that unless you enjoy woodworking and have access to basic powertools, you'll probably be better off buying the kit. It's not free, of course, and you'll have to pay shipping on the rather heavy components, but it's reasonably priced -- especially when you take into account the price of MDF (currently around $33 per sheet).

I've completed everything, but I'd appreciate your comments nonetheless. I'll share my mistakes, and the lessons learned, in the hope that others can learn from the experience, as I did. As I write this, I'm aware that builders and designers far more knowledgeable than I will likely read what I say. To you, I'll apologize in advance for covering things that are to you, elementary. But, a primary goal here, is to provide something that will be of value to those with even less experience than I have with this fascinating pursuit. I doubt that many experienced builders will find what I have to say all that enlightening, but there might be a few things of value. Regular participants will hardly find another Tritrix build thread compelling reading, but some may find the ceiling bracket design used for the rear surrounds interesting.

I selected the Tritrix design for this project for several reasons. First, the Tritrix design has been highly acclaimed as an excellent high-value choice by those who should know. I am a strong believer in the advice so often seen here, that an inexperienced builder or would-be designer, will likely achieve much better results by using a proven design. Second, I'm very pleased with the first set I made. Third, the Tritrix kit offered by PE is a great value -- the discounted kit, as compared to purchasing individual parts, makes the Tritrix a very attractive option. Thank you Curt and Wayne...

I think it's probably a good idea to include a photo showing where this thread is headed. Because the Tritrix design is so common, I didn't bother to photograph the finished TLs -- they're visible in the background of some photos I will include, but until my daughter sends me a photo of the installed system, these will have to suffice. This is a photo of the completed enclosures in primer:

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010145.jpg


This photo shows a surround with the bracket I'll describe later in this thread:

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010377.jpg

Here's how the system looks in place in my daughter's home. Note the subwoofer tucked away in the cabinet on the right side.

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/finishedview.jpg

And this would be a closer view of the subwoofer:

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Subwoofer%20for%20Home%20Theater/P1010309.jpg

I'll be back with more, hopefully this will be useful information for some...

[jared]

Looking great! I like the gloss finish and can appreciate the work it takes to get it to that point. Is that the Quattro 15 for the sub?

[Soundslike]

I elected to make my own enclosures with materials purchased from a local Home Depot, or maybe it was Lowes. I purchased three sheets of 3/4" (19mm) Medium-Density-Fibreboard (MDF) and then cut them into manageable pieces about 1/4" larger than the required width with a circular saw. MDF produces a huge amount of dust which pretty much gets everywhere, and wouldn't you know it, it's probably not too good for you.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Medium-density_fibreboard

Many woodworkers recommend using a guide you can make yourself, when cutting large sheets of material.
http://wayneofthewoods.com/circular-saw-cutting-guide.html
You'll find the guide to be very much worth the trouble if you cut sheets now and then, or if you have to make finish cuts with a circular saw.
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010083.jpg
The pieces were cut to width using a table saw. A table saw will produce an accurate cut if the workpiece is supported adequately. If you don't have access to a table saw, you can cut accurately with the panel guide mentioned above. Pieces that overlap slightly can be cut flush later in the build process with a flush bit and a router, if you have access to one of those.
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010084.jpg

A radial-arm saw was used to make the cross cuts. Radial-arm saws were common in workshops, until the mitre-saw was invented. They still have the advantage of making longer cuts.
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010089.jpg

I recommend laying out (drawing) the driver cutouts on the baffle before doing any cutting. It helps, if you've made a miscalculation, because you're apt to spot the problem early on. With this project, I have eight baffles to mark.http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010094.jpg

I bought a circle guide for speaker building and I'm glad I did. You can make your own, but unless it's a pretty elaborate design, you'll end up measuring and remeasuring a lot more than you cut. Still, if you're only making one pair of speakers, you can save some money. The guide uses a pivot which fits into a center hole you drill during the layout process.http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010096.jpg


Here's the first baffle with the outer drive holes cut. Someone recommended in a thread I read on this forum earlier, that they prefer not to cut completely through the baffle with the router, but instead leave a paper-thin amount of material holding the waste (the part you're cutting out) to the work-piece. The reason for not cutting through is because if you do, the center hole where the guide pivot point is inserted will move and you're likely to get a gouge in the baffle. If you look closely at the baffle, you'll see a thin bit of material that remained after I pushed the waste out by hand. It's also worth mentioning that the outer recessed portion where the driver frame will set, must be cut first. I also recommend drilling the holes for the driver screws before cutting the openings. Doing so will allow you to use a drill press, and it's much easier to layout the holes accurately. You will also be able to install T-nuts, or hurricane nuts, before the enclosure is put together.http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010095.jpg


If you make a mistake, all is not necessarily lost. In the photo below, you'll notice a fair amount of a filler I mixed up, and spread around the opening. The filler was made by mixing sawdust, which you'll have no trouble finding if you're using MDF, and white glue. White glue has sufficient strength, and it's inexpensive. The resulting paste makes for a strong repair, and you can avoid throwing away that piece you put so much work into. I've used it for other purposes as well, but it's not ideal for some things I will describe later. This repair will take a few more applications to build up the material back to the point it should be. If you look through the opening, you'll see one of the cutout waste pieces with the thin material still attached that was left by not cutting all the way through. http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010099.jpg


The next step is to cut a small slot in the tweeter cutouts to make room for the terminals. I made this template that fits into the cutout to mark the eight baffles I was making. I found it tedious drawing guidelines for the cut after the driver holes are cut, using the usual combination square, and not particularly accurate. The template was made from 1/4" hardboard.
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010107.jpg

A coping saw works well for cutting the notch needed for tweeter terminal clearance. The resulting hole usually isn't very neat, so I hold back from the line and use a modified square file to tidy things up. The file is a cheap Harbor Freight type with a cross sectional area of about 1/2" X 1/2". I ground one side flat making it possible to file material on one surface only, in the corners. A word of caution: When test fitting the tweeter, don't force anything or you might find that you've knocked off one of the terminals. It's easy to do, I find...http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010101.jpg

Here's a baffle with cutouts, and the notch.http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010104.jpg

In the next photo, I've begun the process of routing the angled groove that locates the back panel that defines the shape of the transmission line (it looks like a tunnel to me). I don't really think a dado is necessary -- after all, a ****-joint would have been sufficient if we were making a sealed or vented enclosure. But hey; from what I could tell on the YouTube videos showing how to put together a Tritrix TL, the knock-down kit features a dado, so mine will too. But I honestly think a builder could skip the dado. It probably serves more than anything else, to properly locate the angled panel for kit makers. It would be easy to locate the dado with a CNC router.

If you opt to make the dado with a router however, you'll definitely want to layout the position of the dado, and cross braces. Do it in pencil, because if you're like me, you'll being doing a bit of erasing. It can be confusing. I strongly recommend that builders draw the enclosure to scale before beginning, in order to plan how they will locate the angled panel and braces.

Once everything is properly laid out, it is best to make a jig to guide the router. One could use nothing more than a straight edge, but you'll need something to establish start and stop points. I made the jig you see in the photo out of scrap MDF (plenty of that laying around). Notice that it's "C-shaped;" it's those end pieces that limit the router's travel at start and finish. If anyone needs the dimensions I used, drop me a PM and I'll send them, but you'll probably need to alter them if you're using a different router (mines a Porter Cable). It's worth mentioning, I guess, that a 3/4 inch dado bit is used, and that repetitive 1/8" cuts are made until the right depth is achieved.http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010110.jpg

I chose to use wood screws to assemble my 14 speaker enclosures, up to this point. I'm not so sure I'll do it again for reasons I'll explain. I like wood screws for several reasons. The add considerable strength when simple ****-joints are used and they facilitate the assembly process. Many, many, enclosures have been built with glue only, but this entails a process whereby one piece is carefully glued to another, clamped, and then left to sit until the glue dries. After a time, usually the next day, clamps are removed and another piece is added. Sometimes more than one, but never more than a few -- it's just too difficult to control several pieces of wood made slippery by glue. Using screws, one can avoid that difficulty because the screws hold everything in place while another piece is added. But to do it right, the clearance holes (I'm referring to the larger holes that pass through the top piece to allow the screw to reach the piece being attached to) should be drilled in advance. During the process of assembly, everything is dry fitted first, one screw at a time. In other words, you hold two pieces together and drill a pilot hole for the first screw, then insert the screw, realign everything then drill another pilot hole,insert another screw etc., repeating this procedure until the assembly is completed. Then things are disassembled piece by piece, wood chips blown away, glue added, and reassembled. That makes for an accurate assembly which can continue until the enclosure is completed. I'll have to continue in another post -- this one has exceeded the limit. Brevity has never been by strong suit...

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010114.jpg

[Soundslike]

Looking great! I like the gloss finish and can appreciate the work it takes to get it to that point. Is that the Quattro 15 for the sub?

In keeping with the goal of high-value, and and not being at all certain I could produce a speaker that would be worth the effort even with expensive drivers, I opted for the Dayton SD315-88, 12" shielded DVC. Now that PE is reducing their line of shielded drivers, it's no longer available. It's also powered by a Dayton product, the SA-100 plate amp. I'll be getting to my finishing trials and tribulations later in the thread. Thanks for the compliment...

[Soundslike]

But, using screws causes problems during the finishing process. If rounded or angled edges are used, the screws must be countersunk well below the surface, but not so far as to compromise strength. If they're not deep enough, you'll hit them during the routing process -- pretty sparks result, but it's tough on bits, and you've got a defect you'll want to hide during the finishing process. Also, the countersunk screws leave holes that must be filled, and not just any filler is suitable. You'll need something tough that won't come out later on. I used the white glue/saw dust mixture described earlier, but it shrinks and must be reapplied. It's also difficult to sand flush so you end up with a less than perfect finish. So, next time I'll be dragging out the biscuit joiner -- that should keep thing aligned during assembly and add sufficient strength.

I think it's a good idea to insert the hurricane or T-nuts, whichever you use, before the enclosures are assembled. If the holes are sized correctly, a press fit will be all that's needed. Glue can be used if you've oversized the holes, but there is a risk that the threads will be fouled -- that might necessitate using a thread-chaser or a tap to clean the threads. I measure the barrel with calipers to make sure I find the correct drill size.

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010098.jpg

In the next photo, I arrayed the component parts necessary for one Tritrix TL enclosure
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010115.jpg

This photo shows one nearly assembled TL enclosure. I used automotive carpet padding, a compressed fabric/fiber material on the top and behind the drivers. I don't know that I can recommend this material, some may find fault with it, but it seems to do the job fine in this application. I haven't experienced any problems, but then again, I don't have the critical ears that might detect an audible deficiency, if there is one. I'd be interested in what others have to say. I prefer to completely assemble the enclosure before installing the drivers or crossovers. That avoids the possibility of damage, whether physical or by paints and solvents.

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010117.jpg

The next photo shows the interior of a vented enclosure that will be used either as a center, or as a surround. Note the use of PVC pipe for the vent -- it's epoxied in a hole cut with a Forsner bit and a drill press. You'll also note the use of automotive carpet padding on thee sides in the enclosure. The padding is secured to the panels with spray on contact adhesive. Look at all of those screw holes that will have to be filled.

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010119.jpg

[greywarden]

Awesome write-up, good job on the speakers too.

[Soundslike]

Awesome write-up, good job on the speakers too.

Thanks for the encouragement -- I'm so happy you replied. While I was writing about the difficulties that follow in the finishing process, I remembered the quotation you use:

Originally Posted by skyline_123 @ audioholics
"In other words, one leaves you with hours worth of filling, sanding, refilling and resanding as well as the urge to quit life. The other way leaves you pure smoothness and a general desire to do something for charity. Next time, I choose smoothness and charity."

That pretty well sums it up...

[Soundslike]

In this next photo, the build has progressed through the usual filling, sanding, more filling, resanding, and rounding over, I’m adding a disc-shaped pad that will be one of two pivot points used on this, and another speaker, that are to be suspended from a ceiling as surrounds.

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010135.jpg

In this post, I’d like to address several points.

1. Approaches to making a ceiling bracket
2. Importance of balance in an adjustable mount
3. Locating and orienting the pads
4. Making MDF discs

First, take a look at the following drawing for a clearer idea of what I’m trying to accomplish in the photo.

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/spkrTriventwithstuds.jpg

Looking at speaker brackets in general, I suppose they could be grouped into two categories – those that can be adjusted and those that can’t. If an arrangement whereby a speaker is permanently aimed can be accepted, then mounting is much simpler because all that is required is rigid mounts. But if the speaker is to be infinitely adjustable, or nearly so, then it must be mounted with a swivel point around a vertical and a horizontal axis.

Movement around a horizontal axis, as depicted by the centerline in the drawing, will require that the speaker attach points be near the center of gravity. The closer the better, because if it is out of balance, it will have a natural tendency to move in the direction that gravity commands. Either the front or the back of the speaker will want to move towards the floor. Some imbalance can be tolerated, but a tighter connection at the pivot point will be required. Imbalance will also tend to push a center column out of plumb, i.e., gravity will exert a force that makes the column want to move out of vertical alignment.

To find the center of gravity, I loaded up a finished enclosure with drivers and crossover components, placed as nearly as possible to the location where they would be permanently mounted. I then placed the enclosure on a fulcrum and experimented until I found the location where it seemed most balanced. From that point, I measured up halfway on the enclosure’s side and marked a point. I transferred the point to the other side by measuring. That approach ignores the vertical location of weight or mass, but you can come fairly close.

I decided that a better look could be achieved by using three brass plated screws, countersunk, but exposed, arranged around the pad. That necessitates finding three different angles within the circle that designates the outline of the pad, and for appearance sake one should be oriented to the vertical. The second and third screws are located at 120 and 240 degrees. The reason I mention all of this is to encourage builders to lay-out all of these locations on the work piece before the pad is cut. It’s far easier to do while you still have straight edges for reference lines. It’s probably also a good idea to drill all necessary holes before the piece is cut.

You will notice, as this thread progresses, that a lot of discs fashioned out of MDF are used to fabricate a mounting system for two speakers. The number, I believe, is about 28. In light of this, I thought a few suggestions about how to easily make them might be helpful.

After determining the size, mark the piece, or pieces on a scrap piece of MDF. Most pieces will need a center hole, and the pads need holes for the screws. Cut the work piece out to rough shape and sand to final size using whatever tool you have. I get good results using a bench mounted disc sander like one of these sold by Harbor Freight, as shown here:

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?category=&q=disc+sander

More on Harbor Freight later in the thread.

Using the disk sander, lightly sand while rotating the piece. It’s important to more or less constantly rotate the piece in order to avoid flat spots. Gradually sneak up to the line, but try not to remove the full line, or you’ll lose your reference and likely will end up with a less accurate piece. If you want higher precision, you can make a jig, such as the one shown here:

http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip010921sn.html

If you don’t have access to a disk sander, you can very likely find a jig plan on the Internet that will allow you to vertically mount whatever type of sander you have. Here are some examples using belt sanders (but if you have one of those, you probably don’t need any advice):

http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2010/03/10-belt-sander-jigs-and-stands-for-sharpening-tools-and-precise-sanding

I could swear that I’ve seen plans for a jig to mount an orbital sander vertically, but for the life of me, I can’t find it. That might be an option for someone who doesn’t have access to a belt or disc sander.

[Soundslike]

In the next photo, I've gotten all of the enclosures assembled, ready for sanding and rounding of the edges. To get to this point, I've filled all holes with a putty I mixed up consisting of white glue and sawdust. As I mentioned earlier, the putty is strong, but it does shrink somewhat, and it's not easy to sand. The ideal filler is one that is strong, never comes out, and sands easily, but I've yet to find it. So, following a couple applications of the aforementioned putty and coarse sanding with a random orbit sander, I've applied a water based wood filler. I wouldn't trust it not to come out of a divot the size of a screw hole, but it does sand easily and it feathers out nicely.

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010130.jpg

Here's a close view of a vented enclosure after final sanding, and the front, sides and top edges have been rounded with a 1/2" router round-over bit. The back edges are left square. A flexible sponge-like sanding block works well for smoothing out any tool marks left by the router. Notice how far the round over cuts into the screw countersink holes. Those filled screw holes are going to present a challenge later during the finishing process.

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010138.jpg

Here's the stuff I chose to finish the enclosures -- it came from a local paint store and was recommended by the sales guy who seemed to know what he was talking about. It turned out to be essentially the same stuff you can get your home center. It's not bad, but conditions have to be good if you are to get a good finish. There are better choices. MDF can thwart a lot of primer types. Water based types raise the grain, or more precisely, the little bits of compressed wood that makes up the material. MDF can also swell dramatically if it gets wet. The edges are most difficult to seal. In the past, I've had some success using a mixture of white glue and water but the grain does rise, and when you sand it, you knock off the tops of the high particles which makes them absorbent again. Knowing that old furniture makers used to seal their creations with a coat or two of shellac, I decided to try a shellac based primer. That caused a lot of problems -- it was impossible to get a smooth application in the summer heat, and I doubt it can ever work well without thinning, even in milder climates.

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010148.jpg

[Soundslike]

This next photo shows the setup I used for spray painting the enclosures. Naturally, I moved everything outside. It being summertime in Arizona, I thought shade would be a good idea. I erected an Easyup shade to avoid direct sun on the enclosures which I'm sure helped, but not enough. The best I could hope to achieve was whatever the outside temperature was, and as I recall, it was somewhere around 105 degrees.

The four vented enclosures were suspended by tying a rope around a short piece of 1X2, then inserting it inside the speaker enclosure, just behind the tweeter cutout.

I've had spray equipment for years, but for this project, I purchased an inexpensive gravity feed gun I have an old conventional Binks gun that works well, but the gravity feed type offers the advantage of higher efficiency -- more of the paint gets applied to the workpiece, as opposed to drifting away as overspray. When overspray drifts, I'm convinced it looks for the most expensive shiny thing it can find before settling, such as a Ferrari, Porche, or Mercedes. Airplanes are also favorite destinations. So, less overspray is an advantage, and using a gun with the paint cup on the top looks cool too.

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010141.jpg


This photo shows the enclosures with the shellac based primer applied. During summertime months in the greater Phoenix area, after about the 1st of July, we often get evening Thunderstorms and they’re always accompanied by blowing dust, and now and then, rain. That makes it unwise to leave anything outside overnight that can catch the wind, or isn’t waterproof. Since the enclosures failed both of those tests, I move them back inside. Everything looks great in primer, doesn't it....

But, if I had really close shot, you'd see that the primer left an orange-peel surface. This stuff covers well -- if you look at the product page on the Zinsser web site, it touts BIN primer for its superior sealing and hiding capability. But Zinsser doesn't make any claim of smooth flowing fine finishes. My mistake for not doing my research. There is one rule I would pass along to anyone who is striving for a good, high-quality, finish. Know the product you're using so you'll know what it's going to do in the application you're using it for. You can get a nice looking finish using the oil-based paints available in home improvement centers, but if you can find the time to experiment with the product before applying it to your project, you're well advised to do so.

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010145.jpg

[Soundslike]

Even though the prime coats were not as smooth as I liked, I decided to press on with the materials I had purchased for the project. When you build a batch of speakers, or anything else I guess, it's not easy to change direction. For one thing, the more of something you buy, the harder it is to abandon it, and replace it with something else. And usually, the process of sanding between coats produces dramatic improvement with succeeding coat. But MDF does resist the painter's efforts to produce a nice finish. It readily absorbs paint, particularly on the edges. The primer must seal the material, if you are to end up with a nice, shiny finish, free of defects. Any spot where you sand through the primer down to the MDF, will stand out as a dull spot. In the following photo, I'm spraying on black alkyd enamel with that inexpensive gravity feed gun I mentioned earlier. The gun worked surprisingly well and convinced me that getting a good one would be worthwhile.

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010149.jpg

In the next photo, I'm beginning the process of making the crossover networks. What happened to the obligatory photos of the enclosures painted in black you ask? Well, they turned out okay, but I wasn't happy and apparently I didn't have sufficient motivation to snap a picture. I'll include a photo or two later on in the thread, showing the completed speakers in what is now their natural environment. Cue the Jungle sounds, Marlon.

Note: Photo added at beginning of thread on 2/15/11

Back to the crossover networks. I planned the layout by creating a scale drawing showing placement of each component. The networks will utilize boards cut from 1/4" hardboard (often called by the brand name "Masonite"), with all connections made up on the underside of the board. I prefer to use terminal connectors, mainly I guess, for neatness sake. The drawing was made using a computer drafting program, which makes the task easier because you can drag things around, resize things, rotate things, and because the dimensions are calculated for you. I began by measuring all of the components and then drawing them to scale. I first placed the inductors in the drawing because I wanted them to be as far apart as possible on whatever size board I ended up with, and of course, one should be standing vertical, while the other is laid flat. Then I placed the other components, including the terminal connectors. A bit of trial and error produces a satisfactory layout which can then be "wired together" by drawing lines depicting where connections are made, etc. Then, the drawing is duplicated and flipped over to produce a mirror image that will serve as a kind of road map for making connections beneath the board.

That blue tint the photo has reminds me of those Viagra commercials on TV. Don't be confused -- you probably have to be over 45 or 50 to understand.
I wonder if that came from the art department or the law department?

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010152.jpg

[greywarden]

I'm interested in how your crossovers turned out, I have my parts, in waiting for payday to come around, so I can get started on them.

[Soundslike]

I'm interested in how your crossovers turned out, I have my parts, in waiting for payday to come around, so I can get started on them.

Thanks for the question -- here's more on the crossover networks (in the following posts).

[jcpahman77]

Between the popularity of the TriTrix TL knock down kit and all the very well informed info here I'm wondering if it wouldn't be prudent to make this a sticky. I get the feeling the OP has quite a bit more up his sleeve yet for this thread and I can't help but think that even experienced speaker builders can benefit from the advice that is posted here.

[Soundslike]

Using the measurements produced in the CAD drawing, I made this template, again out of 1/4" hardboard. It's the same as the actual boards I will make for the eight crossover networks I need. In the photo, I'm in the process of transferring the holes (where the component leads will pass through the board) to another board. I placed the template over the identically sized board and carefully drilled the first hole in one of the corners. To anchor one corner, and improve accuracy, I inserted a pin through through both. Next, I placed the board edgewise on the workbench which aligned the board with the template, and drilled a second hole through which a second pin was inserted. The purpose of the second pin is to keep board and template in the correct position relative to each other while the rest of the holes are drilled.

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010151.jpg

In this photo, I'm drilling through the template into the board below. I'm only marking the board with the drill, making a small dimple in the board where each hole goes. The actual drilling process was done with a drill press, several boards clamped together in order to speed up the process. Obviously, it isn't absolutely necessary to use a drill press, but it does avoid the occasional errant hole drilled at an angle. By the way, the reason I used the drill to mark the hole locations is that other methods you see on the bench, such as the nail and hammer, or the scratch awl, bounced things around too much.
As you can see in the photo, I didn't bother sanding the edges of the boards considering it to be "uncraftsmanlike," because after all, they're going inside the enclosure where they won't be seen. I probably will next time, if only to avoid posting a photo showing, gasp, rough edges.

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010150.jpg

In this next photo, you see a finished crossover network, with leads attached to the terminals.

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010276.jpg

[Soundslike]

Between the popularity of the TriTrix TL knock down kit and all the very well informed info here I'm wondering if it wouldn't be prudent to make this a sticky. I get the feeling the OP has quite a bit more up his sleeve yet for this thread and I can't help but think that even experienced speaker builders can benefit from the advice that is posted here.


I've seen "Stickys" but I'll have to admit I don't know what needs to be done to make that happen. You're right, I do have a lot more to post. I hope it's useful information.

[Soundslike]

Referring back to the photo of the finished crossover, you'll notice that the leads from all components pass through the board. Connections are made on the underneath side, as mentioned earlier. Except for the terminal connectors, all components are secured with hot glue. Zip ties were added to the inductors, because of their weight, and because networks that are installed in the vented enclosures could end up either vertical or horizontal, depending on how some future owner chooses to use the speakers. The leads (wires) that pass through the board also serve to secure the components.

In the next photo, the underside of the board and the connections are shown. I made the connections using as much of the component leads as possible, rather than add wire simply for the sake of neatness. I wondered if adding wire would change any of the values because, at least in theory, added length and additional connections could add resistance. I rather doubt that any detectable difference would result, but why, I reasoned, take the chance just to make the underside look neater.

I followed the basic wiring rule that requires a good physical connection, before solder is applied. I think the logic is that the connection won't spring loose, in the unlikely event it get hot enough to melt the solder.

All of this spaghetti means that some provision must be made to make sure the wiring will not be in direct contact with the enclosure when the network is mounted. The green rectangles you see are double-sided tape, with the protective wrap still in place. Small pieces of 1/4" hardboard have been glued to the board to provide additional clearance, and the tape is stuck to the pieces. The unusual sizes and distribution of the mounting points were dictated by available space, or the lack thereof. Once pressed in place inside the enclosure, the board is firmly mounted and unlikely to come loose. If the board is to be mounted on the top or sides of the enclosure, I would recommend a more permanent method, since gravity will do its best to unstick the tape.



http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010277.jpg

[Soundslike]

The following photo gives a better view of the completed crossover with the leads attached. In this build, and a previous build of Tritrix TLs, I've opted to complete the enclosure construction and painting before installing the crossover networks. I've seen several builds where the builder either left one panel off for access to the interior of the enclosure, or the baffle or back panel was made removable. That seems unnecessarily complicated to me, when a proven, finalized, design is built and no revisions are anticipated. I suppose another reason for access panels is to make wiring easier, but I didn't find that task difficult with any of the Tritrix variants. You will have to make a wiring harness of sorts before inserting the crossover however.

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010290.jpg

[Soundslike]

Once again, I guess I pressed the "Submit Reply" button before I was through....

Referring back to the crossover on a stool photo, notice that I've used black heat shrink to mark the negative side and red for the positive side. I used lamp cord mostly because it was available, and also by doing so, I could be sure the wire has sufficient capacity. I've yet to come across a good rule of thumb to use for selecting a wire gage when wiring drivers, or the crossover network. I'm sure there is guidance somewhere -- maybe someone can point in the right direction.

Before I move on, I wanted to recommend an inexpensive tool that's very handy for straightening out wires, something you often need to do when making a crossover network, if neatness matters that is. These are sheet metal bending pliers, available at, uh, Harbor Freight, for a song. I'd like to claim that I'm strictly a Snap On guy, but I'll readily admit that I buy more than a few things from there. Anyway, using the pliers - just insert the wire lengthwise and clamp gently, rotate, and repeat. In a later photo, I used these pliers to straighten out a driver frame.

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010294.jpg

In the next photo, I'm installing one of the crossover networks in a vented enclosure. I've chosen to attach the network near the vent, and on what will be the bottom panel, since the speaker will be used in the horizontal position, either as a surround or center channel. Note to self: Remember to cut away the insulation material in the area where the binding posts come through the back panel so you don't have to do it through the driver opening. That was a bit of a pain... I got the little LED light you see in use here at Ikea, and it's proven to be handy for tasks like this.

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010280.jpg


Here's the bent driver frame I mentioned.. And over in the background, you can see the finished speakers. This driver goes in the last one.

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010293.jpg

Using the wonder-pliers to straighten the frame... It worked fine; the patient has been returned to perfect health.

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010295.jpg

In the following photo, I'm using PE's speaker gasket tape, to provide a seal on the back side of the frame. The seal is necessary because the driver was made to be rear mounted with the gasket on the front edge. I've used locally available weather-stripping for this purpose, but I've yet to find a type that's as well suited as the PE product. I cut the tape at an angle, where the two ends meet, to increase the end surface area, and that should improve chances for a perfect seal.

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010296.jpg

In this last photo, I'm using a hole punch tool, called a revolving punch, to restore the hole the mounting screws will pass through. I suppose a drill could be used, but the results are going to be messy, and you run the risk of damaging the gasket to the point where you get a poor seal.

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010297.jpg

[Hearing Specialist]

I think I honestly shed a small tear...

All those TriTrix enclosures...all that attention to detail...the crossover looks awesome...I think I need a hug...:D

[Soundslike]

Five of the eight speakers in this build will be used in home theater (HT) for my daughter and her family. Two will go to my son and his family for their two channel system. In the HT system, sealed variants of the Tritrix design will be used for the center channel, and for the L & R rear surround channels.

The drawing below shows the design I came up with to suspend the surrounds from the ceiling. We opted to mount the surrounds on the ceiling because of the open design of the family room/kitchen where the system will be installed. There are no other suitable surfaces on which to mount the speakers, in the near vicinity of where the audience will be seated. And owing to the often mentioned SAF, mounting on pedestals wasn't going to work -- they would look rather like wood stoves sitting just behind the sofa.

Normally, one would probably opt for smaller surrounds in a situation like this, but a design with similar voicing would be necessary. Curt and Wayne's MTs would work fine, but would end up costing about the same as the Recession Destroyer kit and, I'd still have to build a single MTM for the center channel. Another factor in the Tritrix's favor was the vertical dimensions of the two -- the horizontally mounted MTM would fit closer to the ceiling. And honestly, I thought they'd look pretty cool and business-like up there.


The decision to go with the Tritrix speakers, meant I'd need a sturdy mount. I wanted to come up with something that didn't look like it was derived from brackets in the home shelving bin at Home Depot, or made by a blacksmith shop. Yesterday, I wrote about what I believe to be the two approaches to ceiling mounts, and the balance requirements for adjustable mounts. These mounts needed to be adjustable with two pivot points. These requirements would make it very tough to design something made of wood with adequate joint strength. Simple MDF construction would be out of the question. I wanted to be able to sleep at night knowing that these surrounds weren't going to come crashing down.

After giving the matter some thought, I decided to use brass plated pipe, steel strap, PVC pipe, and all-thread rod, fitted here and there with MDF covers shaped to impart a molded look and hide the ugly parts. If we start in the attic, there would be short length of 2 X 6 placed perpendicular across two rafters in the ceiling. Through the 2 X 6, a 1/4" all-thread rod would extend down vertically into the living space below, first passing through a solid column that would conceal it, and provide lateral stability. A length of 1" pipe would be fitted through a hole bored horizontally in the column extending out on both sides sufficiently so as to clear the enclosure. Inside the pipe, another length of 1/4" all-thread rod would traverse the entire length and extend out the ends where they would each pass through a steel strap. The main purpose of the horizontal all-thread rod is to hold the steel straps securely to the end of the horizontal pipe. The horizontal rod is held centered inside the pipe by a MDF disc drilled with a center hole, in each end. The steel straps extend down vertically to a point just below the speaker pivot points, on each side of the enclosure. Wood/metal (refers to the threads on either end) steel dowel installed on both sides of the enclosure extends through the steel straps.

The column was made from 2 1/2" PVC pipe (the drawing incorrectly specifies 4", 2 1/2" is correct) made solid by glued-in MDF discs. The two all-thread rods conflict with each other where they pass through the same location defined by the center lines of the column and the horizontal pipe. To resolve this problem, the horizontal rod was halved and each piece was welded to opposing ends of a short length of 3/4" wide steel strap. A 3/8" hole was drilled through the strap through which the vertical rod passes.




http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/Speakerceilingmountsforsurrounds.jpg

[Soundslike]

This photo shows the bracket assembled, but bare nakid... Well maybe not completely nakid; I've used masking tape to cover the brass plated pipe to protect is as much as possible from dings and scratches. I got the pipe from a home center where they were getting rid of slow moving stock. It was made for a ceiling fan -- one of those long extensions that lowers the fan. I think I paid three bucks for the pipe. I rounded the top and bottom of the two vertical straps for appearance sake. The threaded rod will be trimmed later. I typically wait until I'm sure about the length before trimming -- once it's gone, you can't get it back...

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010330.jpg

I imagine most everyone knows what steel strap and all-thread rod is, but for those that haven't used it before, I gottcha covered. You'll notice the layout marks scratched into the strap. The top line marks the final width of the piece, and the crossed lines mark the location where the pass through hole will be drilled. When you're working with metal, be sure to drill holes before cutting the material into small pieces. Drill presses tend to grab metal and a lot of thrashing around can result. Larger pieces are easier to hold on to. By the way, when purchasing all thread rod, skip the metals department and go over to the electrical department. There you'll find long lengths of rod intended for hanging electrical conduit, fixtures, etc. It's much cheaper..


http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010300.jpg

I think I mentioned that there are a lot of MDF discs in this bracket project. Here's one of eight I made for filling the PVC pipe column.
http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010298.jpg

In this next photo, you can see the two lengths of PVC pipe that will be used for the column, along with the discs that will be glued inside to make the column solid. I used Titebond (wood glue) to glue the discs together, but the resulting assembly will be glued to the PVC with epoxy. The PVC pipe was cut using a mitre saw fitted with a blade that I can afford to dull.

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010301.jpg

I wanted to make sure the MDF discs were perfectly aligned with each other while the glue dries. To achieve that, I first applied glue to the individual pieces, then pressed them together inside the PVC that was to become their permanent residence. After about 20 minutes, the glue sets up enough to allow removal of the clamp, and removal of the stacked and glued discs from the PVC. Another trip to the disc sander cleans up any irregularities and the stacked discs can be glued into the PVC with epoxy.

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010299.jpg

Next, I needed to cross bore a 1" hole through the columns, through which the horizontal pipe would be fitted. This had to be accurately done, otherwise the the bracket would end up crooked, and the speaker would hang as though it had just been through a long overnight party with a bunch of rock stars. I made the jigs you see in the photo to hold the column in position during the boring process. The lines you see marked on the PVC and vertically down the bracket, are to determine the centerline of the column where the hole will be bored, and to make it possible to spot any shifting of the part that might occur. Creeping into view at the top of the photo, you can see the Forsner bit I'll use to bore the hole. The tops of the jigs don't fully enclose the PVC at the top to allow room for the Forsner bit.


http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010318.jpg

In this photo, I'm boring through the PVC. Notice the large handscrew clamp used to hold everything in place.

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010319.jpg

Here's what the finished piece looks like:

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010321.jpg

[Soundslike]

After a little experimentation, I settled on a design for the decorative parts of the bracket. In a drawing program similar to Corel, I sketched several different designs until coming up with one for the strap covers I thought would look okay. I then cut out four blanks and cut a channel-like recess in what would be the back sides, to conceal the vertical straps. After tracing the outline of the form in two dimensions on the blank I began cutting on the bandsaw. I first cut the the overall shape as viewed from the front, then taped the pieces back together so the workpiece would stand on edge while I cut the profile shape. The next photo shows the taped together blank being cut along the profile line.

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010342.jpg

This is a blank after the two cuts have been made. Note the channel I referred to earlier. The bottom piece is waste.

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010344.jpg

Next, I used a Forsner bit on the drill press to bore a circular recess at the top that would hold decorative discs I hoped would make the covers more interesting. Holes were also drilled for the wood/metal dowels at the pivot point, and the threaded rod where it exited the horizontal pipe. After sanding the profile cut, the pieces were bolted together for sanding on the spindle sander. Bolting the pieces together into one unit, made it possible to sand all pieces into identical shapes (as viewed from the front).

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010347.jpg

Here we see the final shape of the strap covers, with the decorative discs. The final shape was achieved by careful use of a wood rasp and a flexible sanding block. The decorative discs were made in the same manner described in a post yesterday, but with a recessed face cut using the drill press as a lathe. If you look closely, you can see that the MDF has taken on a rougher surface than we are accustomed to seeing. That's because MDF is much harder on the surface, and when the sub surface is exposed, it doesn't have the same smooth look and feel. It looks, and is, softer and much more absorbent. But as we will see, it is up to the task if finished properly.

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010349.jpg

Here's a better view of the profile. Looks a little like a dog bone, doesn't it...

I think I'll take this up again in the morning...

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010350.jpg

[greywarden]

Holy crap that's a rediculous amount of work! Wow! Fantastic build again!

[Soundslike]

I think I honestly shed a small tear...

All those TriTrix enclosures...all that attention to detail...the crossover looks awesome...I think I need a hug...:D

That made my day -- I'm still chuckling...

[its_bacon12]

Your thoughtfulness in planning it out like you have is incredible. You did everything right that I'm sure most of us don't have the patience to do!

What a build thread! Thank you for sharing!! Bookmarked for later date on how to properly execute a build :)

[Soundslike]

The brackets feature adjustment knobs at the vertical pivot points, on either side of the speakers. In the photo, I've drawn an outline of the four knobs, and laid out an array of holes that will become grooves on the circumference. The outer line of the circles is to locate the center of the holes I'v drilled, and the inner line is the cut line. The result will be shallow grooves, rather than half diameter grooves. The drilling locations were laid out with a protractor. Next, I'll use the countersink in the drill press chuck to add a bevel to the holes.

These knobs will be functional, but mostly decorative. Anything, from a wing nut to a 1/4 20 nut could be used.


http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010332.jpg


In the next photo, you can see the beveled holes, and you'll also notice that I've recessed the center area of what will be our knobs. This recessed/ depressed area was cut with a large Forsner bit. This feature makes the knobs more interesting visually, and could be used to make the them more attractive by adding a round thin metal disk trim piece. Polished brass cut from a door kick plate comes to mind.

Getting all of the grooves beveled (using the countersink bit) to the same depth is important for appearance sake, an easy task with a drill press if the depth stop is used. I'm cutting out a recess that will flush fit a 1/4 20 nut, which will provide the threads needed for the knob to function. The nuts will be glued in with epoxy. The nuts must be on the outside of the knob where they will be pulled into the knob with increasing force as it is tightened -- if placed on the inside the knob will be entirely dependent on the epoxy glue holding the nut in the recess.

The tool I'm using to cut the recesses is, as I'm sure you can tell, one that I made for this task. I ground the chisel blade out of an old hacksaw blade. Not particularly difficult, if you have a bench grinder. Bench grinders are cheap and they're a basic tool for every shop.

When I make knobs the next time around, I'll probably try to improve on the design. These are working well enough, on the finished brackets, but it wouldn't be difficult to twist the nut out of the recess. As I mentioned last night, MDF is rather soft below the surface so it's a good idea not to apply too much force to the finished knob. I have several alternatives in mind, such as welding a nut to a circular shaped piece of sheet metal, or saturating the MDF in the area around the nut cutout with cyanoacrylate (superglue). I'll try to remember to knock out a drawing illustrating the knob modifications I have discussed here, later in the thread.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyanoacrylate

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010334.jpg

The knobs were next rough cut to shape on the bandsaw, then sanded to a round shape using the same process described earlier. Next, a long 1/4" bolt was inserted through the center hole of the knobs, and into the drill press chuck. Using the drill press for a lathe, the knobs were turned, shaped and sanded using wood rasps, files, and sand paper.

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010338.jpg

[Soundslike]

The design also called for a trim piece that would fit on the ceiling and provide a base for the column. The piece improves the appearance of the installed bracket system, but perhaps more importantly, it adds stability. In the following photo I'm using the drill press as a lathe again. I guess it's obvious, but I used a wood rasp, files, a sanding block, and a flexible sponge sanding block. It's also pretty obvious that one of the main products of this process is sawdust.

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010353.jpg

In this photo, the trim parts are painted with primer. By the way, something that bears repeating: Try to use a primer that comes as close to the finish color as possible. The oil based paints sold in the home improvement centers aren't very durable. Maybe it's fairer to say that the paint chips easily when it's coating something relatively soft underneath, like MDF. If the primer color is close to the paint color, the inevitable dings and scratches won't be nearly as noticeable. The more contrast between the two, the more noticeable they will be. Lessee, black over white -- spose' that might be a problem? Many primers can be tinted by the paint store.

You'll probably recognize everything in the photos except for the two little round thingys that look like offspring of the two ceiling trim pieces. They're just to the left of the pyramid gismo. I'm tempted to claim that the pyramid focuses the energy of the universe onto ..., but that's been done elsewhere on this forum by another poster. Any way, the little round things I started to explain are trim pieces that are intended for the bottom of the column, between it and the enclosure. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to use them because there was less clearance than I anticipated.

The two columns are missing in this photo...

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010355.jpg

And here are the painted trim pieces. Now the columns are there, but the knobs are gone. It's so hard to get all of the family together for a photo. Sigh...


http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010357.jpg

Here they are. A close up view of the painted knobs.

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010363.jpg

[RINNAV]

Holy Cow! The detail and time spent on mounting system—much admiration for your patience and outstanding work! I can’t wait to see more…WELL DONE!

[Soundslike]

Continuing with the painted trim pieces -- these are the ceiling trim pieces. Unfortunately, the primer is causing problems again. I used a better paint on the trim pieces, but for reasons I can't recall, I stuck with the shellac based primer. The paint this time, was an automotive urethane type. The paint flows out nicely, produces a very shiny finish, and it's tough. I plan to talk more about painting later, but if you want to see what it's capable of, look at the subwoofer photo at the start of this thread. Suffice it to say, I'll be reluctant to use anything else on a painted project...

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010359.jpg

Here's a close up of a painted dog bone (strap cover) for the sides. Although I didn't quite achieve perfection, you can see that with better surface preparation, the urethane paint is capable of producing a very nice finish. I used a detail gun for these smaller parts.

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010358.jpg

The next few photos show, what I had so hoped to avoid. Some things young people should never have to see. My welding... If nothing else, this should eliminate any doubts that I'm hiding anything.

In this photo I'm holding one of the steel strap pieces that will be used to make the center junction where the horizontal and vertical rods pass through the same point, inside the horizontal pipe. My thumb is partially covering the center hole where the vertical rod will pass through. The notched out area at the top of the strap is where the threaded rod will be attached by a weld. The photo was taken before removal of the leftover shards that will be removed with a file. The other end, of course is also notched where the other half of the threaded rod will be attached.

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010317.jpg

In this photo, you see the assembled (the observant will note that I avoid the use of the term "welded together") horizontal rod. Let's move on, shall we...

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010324.jpg

Here, I'm hold the smallest of the many MDF discs I made for this project. This one will be used to keep the horizontal rod centered in the horizontal pipe.

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010329.jpg

The disc as used in the horizontal pipe cross piece.

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010328.jpg

And finally, here we see the bracket and speaker assembled together, ready to be hung on the ceiling. I was looking at Curt's website recently, and noticed that an enclosure drawing, showing a vented enclosure, had the tweeter offset towards the top. Hopefully, I don't have the orientation wrong here, but if you're making a set, you might want to check. I could just flip these over, but that will leave the crossover networks hanging upside down from the roof of the enclosure. Gravity always wins, eventually.

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010365.jpg

Although shown earlier at the start of this thread, I thought this would be a good time to show the speakers mounted on the ceiling. It's a pretty poor photo, and honestly I'm capable of better, but it does show how the speakers fit into the room. The vantage point for the photo is a few feet in front of the TV.

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010380.jpg


And here's a closer view of the left surround. Black is such a difficult color to photograph well.


http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010371.jpg


http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/P1010377.jpg

[Soundslike]

Holy crap that's a rediculous amount of work! Wow! Fantastic build again!

Thanks for the compliment greywarden. Way up in Alaska I see, wow...

[curt_c]

Nicely Done!

Both the write up and the execution of the design are top shelf.

The brackets look well thought out and are a nice touch as well...

C

[Hearing Specialist]

Mr. Soundslike, oh wise one, I've been throwing this idea in my head I cannot shake so let me throw this by you...

I have thought about getting 2 TriTrix sets, using almost every piece that's already cut and creating my own Defenitive Technology BiPolar setup. I would seal off the 5 1/4's with the 2 front firing and 2 rear firing with matching tweets on each side. Using the sealed bottom to throw in a side 10" and 10" passive on the other side. With everything pre cut and using the baffles already cut it wouldn't take much to make it work. My logic is that for $400 I can use everything that's there for the top part. I've even thought about using a 8" side passive for the sealed top to get the lowest response out of the 5 1/4's. I'm curious what your thoughts are.

Brian

[AMC]

The ideal filler is one that is strong, never comes out, and sands easily, but I've yet to find it.

I believe the word your looking for is BONDO! It is thought of as an automotive only product, but it works great for projects like this. Sands easy, very hard when fully cured, and doesn't shrink.

[Soundslike]

Mr. Soundslike, oh wise one, I've been throwing this idea in my head I cannot shake so let me throw this by you...

I have thought about getting 2 TriTrix sets, using almost every piece that's already cut and creating my own Defenitive Technology BiPolar setup. I would seal off the 5 1/4's with the 2 front firing and 2 rear firing with matching tweets on each side. Using the sealed bottom to throw in a side 10" and 10" passive on the other side. With everything pre cut and using the baffles already cut it wouldn't take much to make it work. My logic is that for $400 I can use everything that's there for the top part. I've even thought about using a 8" side passive for the sealed top to get the lowest response out of the 5 1/4's. I'm curious what your thoughts are.

Brian

You're getting way over my head here, unless you're addressing how the enclosures might be modified and adapted to your project. I do pretty well with the "put it all together and paint it stuff," but as for how all these components would work together, that's probably a question best addressed by Curt. It looks like a very interesting project. Is this the concept you had in mind? If so, I'd build the enclosures from scratch, using the sealed variant, mainly because of size considerations. Were you thinking all four of the mid woofer drivers would be in the same enclosure, or were you thinking of two separate enclosures for them? I'd be curious to know how the passive radiator would work. If this is a viable concept, you ought to start a thread in the Tech Talk forum -- you're sure to get a lot of input on this one.

[Soundslike]

I believe the word your looking for is BONDO! It is thought of as an automotive only product, but it works great for projects like this. Sands easy, very hard when fully cured, and doesn't shrink.

I'll give that a try. I've seen other posts where builders have used Bondo but I've always assumed there would be a problem caused by different sanding rates (I'm referring to abrasives removing material -- the Bondo probably, I thought, would be more resistant to sanding than the MDF which would leave a bump). I can't wait to try it. Thanks for the tip...

Ron

[beemain]

Don't use bond brand, use rage gold or a similar light weight filler. Bondo brand is terrible. Sand when it's green and it's easy to work with. With any luck I'll have some pictures on my build this weekend.

[MrkCrwly]

This is a fabulous build thread. The amount of work, quality of work, documentation, photos, creativity is just staggering. Thank you.

[Soundslike]

This is a fabulous build thread. The amount of work, quality of work, documentation, photos, creativity is just staggering. Thank you.

Coming from you, I'm very flattered, thanks for the compliment. I've followed your projects and admired them all. Outstanding work...

[Mark65]

You, my friend, are leaps and bounds, plus a few giant strides, above me in the woodworking and finishing aspect of speaker building.:cool:

I'm just slack jaw awed by your work. Seriously.

Stunning, just plain stunning.


Mark

[Soundslike]

Mark,

That's a great compliment -- thank you very much. Now if I could only live up to it... By the way, as you will recall, I've seen your work and I'm very impressed. We should collaborate on something in the future...

Ron

[RDR75]

Beautiful work on the cabinets.....hideous soldering:D

[Soundslike]

Beautiful work on the cabinets.....hideous soldering:D

Yes RDR75, welding can be challenging at times, to me at least.:o I used a stick welder, a type that doesn't produce the pretty welds that we're so accustomed to seeing made by wire welders. I think I said it before but, I actually did consider not posting those photos showing the welds. They don't exactly improve my reputation, but I thought the photos were needed to better explain how things are held together..., just in case somebody wants to build their own set. You can expect to see better work in the future. Point taken...

[Soundslike]

Earlier in this thread, in the area pertaining to making the knobs, I wrote that I had an improved design in mind. Cutting pockets in the knobs where the 1/4" nut will reside, works fine but there are more durable methods. Whenever I adjusted the mounted speakers during the install, I was concerned about twisting too hard, lest the MDF give way. To prevent that problem from occurring, a design similar to the following drawing should be considered. It's more trouble, and depending on which knob is chosen, requires more welding, or acquiring another part called a nutplate. But, once done, there shouldn't be any worries about twisting the knob too hard. In the following drawing, you can see modifications of the original design, that utilize nutplates, rather than rely on a glued in nut. The top Knob involves a little fabrication, and the second two utilize a purchased nutplate -- the second two show what should result if the purchased nutplate is flush mounted and left exposed. Knobs with brass and black screws are shown.

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/spkrbrktknobmod.jpg

Oops..., looks like I somehow drew left-hand thread wood screws... Anyway, to continue, the nuts used in the first knob are called "coupling nuts" or "extension nuts." They're commonly available anywhere hardware is sold.

http://www.dhcsupplies.com/store/p/3295-All-Thread-Extension-Rods.html?feed=froogle

In the drawing, the coupling nut is welded to a disc cut from sheet metal to make your own nutplate. Cutting and shaping the discs will involve more than a little elbow grease, so substituting a large fender washer might be a more attractive way to go, if something suitable can be found. But, it will likely be difficult to find one with a large enough diameter, and a small enough center hole. Or, you can buy a nutplate, such as this one, available from Rockler. Note that 5/16" threaded rod would have to be used in the cross piece since a 1/4" type is not available. This option would also need a spacer between the nut plate and the vertical straps.

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g414/PCIaint/Tritrix%20HT%20build/ScreenHunter_01Feb011427.gif

Although not shown in the drawing, trim pieces could be made and installed over the nutplates for a finished appearance. If the purchased nutplates are used, and mounted flush, they might very well offer a nice look, left exposed without trim pieces.

If I make another set of these brackets, I'll use this design.

[RDR75]

Yes RDR75, welding can be challenging at times, to me at least.:o I used a stick welder, a type that doesn't produce the pretty welds that we're so accustomed to seeing made by wire welders. I think I said it before but, I actually did consider not posting those photos showing the welds. They don't exactly improve my reputation, but I thought the photos were needed to better explain how things are held together..., just in case somebody wants to build their own set. You can expect to see better work in the future. Point taken...

Actually, I was talking about the soldering on your crossovers.
...but I'm probably a little jaded - in my line of work I regularly have to inspect class 3 electronics construction - the type used in military applications....

[Soundslike]

That pretty well completes what I had to say about this project -- building eight of the Tritrix speakers. I can't thank Curt Campbell enough for this great design. What a great value they are. I absolutely love mine.

Originally, I planned to discuss my subwoofer build in this string, thinking that was a logical thing to do because it's part of the home theater system I covered. But, after thinking it over, it seems a better idea to start a separate string dedicated to the subwoofer. In it I'll cover how I managed to finally achieve the shiny black finish I was looking for.

I also promised to offer an opinion about the bargain tools available at Harbor Freight. That's a topic better suited in the technical forum, where I suspect it will draw a wide range of opinions. As a preview, in my humble opinion (I hope I haven't revealed a certain lack of sophistication by failing to use IMHO ;)) some are worth buying, and some are best avoided.

Links to the subwoofer string, and the tool discussion, will be added to my signature once I get going, should you care to follow along. I've also got the parts accumulated for an Aviatrix build, and Paul Carmody's Overnight Sensations. Can't wait to get started on those.

I'm also thinking about doing a build using nothing but hand tools -- the idea would be to offer assistance and motivation to anyone who wants to build a set of speakers, but doesn't have access to the power tools we all take for granted. I just might get some good exercise too.

One last thing (in this post anyway): I'll get notified about any post left here. There are many who are way over my head when it comes to the technical aspects of this fascinating hobby, and there are many really talented builders out there, but I'll be happy to help.

[Soundslike]

Actually, I was talking about the soldering on your crossovers.
...but I'm probably a little jaded - in my line of work I regularly have to inspect class 3 electronics construction - the type used in military applications....

Well, it looks like I just might be metal fusing (to coin a phrase) challenged. Why don't you send me a personal message and give me a little constructive advice... I'm always looking to improve.

[RDR75]

I don't want to be overly critical of someone who's obviously done a phenominal job...

http://workmanship.nasa.gov/lib/insp/2%20books/links/sections/616%20Service%20Lead%20Splices.html

here's a link showing some good splices - I would use a j-hook for the application we're talking about here

a splice takes a lot less solder than you think - make sure any multi-strand leads are properly tinned first - form your j-hooks - and use just enough solder to form a fully wetted fillet on both hooks without obscuring the outline of the leads

...make sure you have the right kind of flux
...make sure your iron is at the right temp
...don't try messing around with lead-free solder

www.IPC.org is also a good source for reference and education. I have to pass the IPC CIS certification course every 2 years, which includes soldering a surface mount 100 pin chip to a pcb by hand... like most things it's not that hard to do, once your learn all the tricks

[Soundslike]

Impressive -- you obviously know your soldering. Maybe you should post a string for the benefit of the builders on this forum. Thanks for the info, I've got some reading to do. I probably should buy a temperature regulated soldering station too. The one I've got is not regulated.

[jcpahman77]

60/40 lead tin with rosin and flux is your friend. I don't know what kind of solder you were using but that makes the job much easier. Yes, the fumes will get you high as hell, but it really works.

[Soundslike]

I use the rosin core type, small gauge. I use a soldering station purchased at an electronics store (Frys) but didn't realize until I got it home that it wasn't temperature regulated. I am capable of making good connections, but honestly, when I turn out one that has too much solder, I'm usually not concerned about it, providing it is secure and conductive. I have a desoldering wick, suction pump device, and one of those squeezy bulb thingys, but it's not one of my favorite things to do. If the connection is beneath the board and inside an enclosure, appearance isn't much of an issue. If there's a safety issue, that's a whole different matter.

I appreciate the input regarding soldering -- I intend to make sure I'm using high quality solder in the future.

[dennymo]

I don't want to be overly critical of someone who's obviously done a phenominal job...

http://workmanship.nasa.gov/lib/insp/2%20books/links/sections/616%20Service%20Lead%20Splices.html

here's a link showing some good splices - I would use a j-hook for the application we're talking about here
Thanks for this link. I did a little digging and found index/ToC for the rest of the guide, useful reading: http://workmanship.nasa.gov/lib/insp/2%20books/frameset.html

[RDR75]

I use the rosin core type, small gauge.

Even when using flux core solder...flux your leads first - then make sure you clean off all the residue, it's corrosive to the connection

[ecbmxer]

Seriously impressive work. I built some Tritrix MT's that I would like to mount nicely as well. Your mounts are just awesome. So much work to make sure each piece looked exactly like you wanted. I may do something similar, but just use existing pieces that I can find (such as knobs, hanging brackets, etc) rather than fabricating. I don't have the tools or know how to make pieces that nice!

[Soundslike]

Thanks for the nice compliment. I'll have to be brief, I'm on an RV trip and limited to my Blackberry. I'll be interested to see what you come up with..

[bolland83]

WOW! That's a lot of work, very nice job. I really dig the way those look on your brackets. Great idea! Another option for knobs might be drawer pull knobs, though you would have to drill and re-tap the holes for a larger size, I think most are only a #8 or #10 size. That might be ok for a smaller speaker though. Yours look really cool though.

[Soundslike]

WOW! That's a lot of work, very nice job. I really dig the way those look on your brackets. Great idea! Another option for knobs might be drawer pull knobs, though you would have to drill and re-tap the holes for a larger size, I think most are only a #8 or #10 size. That might be ok for a smaller speaker though. Yours look really cool though.

Thanks for the nice comments -- I appreciate the positive feedback. Your idea regarding drawer pulls is a good one; anytime I'm at a home improvement center I try to keep an eye open for things that can be used projects like the brackets I made. I found the brass plated pipe I used for the brackets in the bin they use to get rid of things that aren't selling -- at a much reduced price. Knobs for drawer pulls are a good Idea... Thanks..