Nat P MTM Crossover ?

[jmik26]

If I were to upgrade the tweeter caps on a Nat P crossover, which ones would they be?

[NickS]

Looks like C1 & C9 to me

[jmik26]

I was thinking C4 & C9 but I wanted to make sure before I buy the more expensive caps. Hate to pay $160 for caps then found out I chose the wrong ones......

[fbov]

Not as much as when you realize you can't hear the difference.

Remember, cap quality is something that only a few people claim to reliably hear, while others in the room will swear there was nothing to be heard. As I said over on HT guide, I believe Jon Marsh when he makes the claim, and I know a few others of similar veracity. Look up Wolf's cap test thread here to get a sense of the acrimony between the two camps.

Bottomline, unless you have years of experience and are sure you'll hear the benefit, this is the riskiest bet I've come across in DIYing.

Have fun,
Frank

[jcpahman77]

Not as much as when you realize you can't hear the difference.

Remember, cap quality is something that only a few people claim to reliably hear, while others in the room will swear they heard nothing. As I said over on HT guide, I believe Jon Marsh when he makes the claim, and I know a few others. Look up Wolf's cap test thread to get a sense of the acrimony between the two camps.

Bottomline, unless you have years of experience and are sure you'll hear the benefit, this is the riskiest bet I've come across in DIYing.

Have fun,
Frank

QFT.

I don't have a huge amount of experience in DIY, but my background is in electronics and concert sound. The only advice I'd give for picking caps is if the design calls for electrolytic don't sub a ceramic or visa versa. The fundamental differences between caps is very minor. In essence, all a cap consists of is a pair of conductors separated by a semi-conductor. When a charge is applied it is stored in the cap, when the charge is removed the cap releases that stored energy. This principal is the same regardless of cap material.

[jmik26]

ha ha ha, you made up my mind, I stick with the Dayton Caps. If I am disappointed from that then I will spend the cash and start upgrading. Thanks again... Jeff

[jmik26]

QFT.

I don't have a huge amount of experience in DIY, but my background is in electronics and concert sound. The only advice I'd give for picking caps is if the design calls for electrolytic don't sub a ceramic or visa versa. The fundamental differences between caps is very minor. In essence, all a cap consists of is a pair of conductors separated by a semi-conductor. When a charge is applied it is stored in the cap, when the charge is removed the cap releases that stored energy. This principal is the same regardless of cap material.

I was basing my worries over what I was reading about the aluminum drivers being a pain to control hence the particular parts. After making a BOM and seeing capacitor raise the crossover cost to $600+ dollars I started thinking what can I skimp on. Now it is clear to me that for where I am at skill level and component wise it makes sense to buy the cheaper ones. Thanks guys... Jeff

[fbov]

Your worries are well founded, but break-up control is a function of overall circuit design and component values, not component quality. It's up to the XO designer to address break-up issues.

Have fun,
Frank

[jcpahman77]

Additionally I would have to say that if you were giving any serious thought to spending that much in an upgrade that the money would be FAR better spent by investing in better drivers and researching a crossover that works for them instead of dumping that much money in capacitors.

[jmik26]

I'm learning... I couldn't agree with you guys any more. It will be interesting to see how these compare up to my Topaz's...

[2leftthumbs]

With a series crossover like that it will be important for you to pay attention to the dcr speced on each of the coils as it wil affect the crossover's function.