Build Thread: Colorado AviaTrix

[Hosejockey61]

I've been talking about creating this build thread for awhile. I finally decided to start the documentation. I would like to steer this build thread toward those new people wanting to try DYI speaker building but have hesitated to pull the trigger. Hopefully, this build thread inspires those (just like me) to finally pull the trigger with the understanding that you can get all the help you need from this awesome forum.

To the expert members of this and other forums, thanks for convincing me to not go the HTIB route!

For starters, I chose to go witha 7.x AviaTrix system. I originally wanted to go the Statements or Khanspire route but ultimately decided on the AviaTrix as a first build. Hopefully I do Curt and Wayne's work justice.

You can definately save money by buying the kit from PE although it only has the components for two speakers. Since I was going for a 7.x system, I bought three kits plus the needed additional parts to complete the system. I did end up with a couple of extra ND140's and a bunch of extra crossover parts. It was still cheaper than buying everything separately.

http://techtalk.parts-express.com/picture.php?albumid=398&pictureid=3671

http://techtalk.parts-express.com/picture.php?albumid=398&pictureid=3672

http://techtalk.parts-express.com/picture.php?albumid=398&pictureid=3673

[DIYNut42]

That looks like a very happy Christmas morning in April! Looking forward to seeing your build.

[stevedyndiuk]

I envy your pile of aviatrix goodness. I just built the tritrix sealed and am blown away, I can't imagine how good your set up will sound.

[RINNAV]

Where are you at in Colorado? I have been trying to pay attention and see how many here are in the Colorado area...

Jason

[Hosejockey61]

Where are you at in Colorado? I have been trying to pay attention and see how many here are in the Colorado area...

Jason

SE Aurora

[Hosejockey61]

I chose MDF for the enclosures as my intent is to paint them afterwards. I didn't want to waste money on veneer if the LCR are going to be recessed into the wall. I know there are MANY opinions about mounting them in-wall, but I just have to give it a shot and see if it is acceptable to me.

Since MDF comes in 49x97 sheets, you are going to have a difficult time making a perfect cut. I choose to do what woodworkers usually do...trim it down to a manageable size and then make your precision cuts.

In order to get it close, say within 1/4", I use a straight edge system from Rockler. If you use one of these, use it as a guide (as it's intended). If you push into it, you can be off by a 1/16" or better.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/IMGP2295.jpg

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/IMGP2296.jpg

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/IMGP2297.jpg

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/IMGP2300.jpg

I used wood sawhorses. This allows me to have the blade set at about an inch depth and cut right through the MDF and only a 1/4" into the sawhorse. The MDF stays put when cut and I don't have to have anyone hold the cut piece.

Once you get them to their individual sizes, make your precision cuts on the tablesaw. One thing about tablesaws....do some research on youtube about table saw safety...even if you are comfortable using a tablesaw. I learned new things and some tricks that will help you get perfect cuts. Tuning up your saw before use can make a huge difference.

[Hosejockey61]

A note on MDF. You've probably already read on here about how dusty it is and how it's bad for your respiratory system. I used a standard dust mask and looking back, would strongly advise to get something that makes a good seal to your face. After cutting, I pulled off my mask and still had some dust around my mouth and nose.

Hearing protection is strongly recommended too...gotta hear the speakers when you are done! In addition, it keeps the MDF dust from collecting in your ears.

MDF dust gets EVERYWHERE! My son left his window open on the second floor and I didn't know it. He had a layer of MDF dust on his dresser.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/IMGP2301.jpg

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/IMGP2302.jpg

[Hosejockey61]

Now that I have all the pieces cut, it's time to work on the baffles. Measure everything out carefully according to the design.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1646.jpg

I chose to make the circles instead of just marking the centers. Probably a little anal retentive but it sure is sweet to see your line getting cut perfectly by your router.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1650.jpg

Once I had my centers marked, I chose to center punch them to ensure the drill bit stays true when I drill them.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1652.jpg

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1653.jpg

In addition to the guide holes for my router buddy, I went ahead and drilled 1/2" holes for the tweeter connections.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1655.jpg

[Soundslike]

I'll be building a set of Aviatrix soon, and will be following your thread with great interest. It's looking great -- your's is a pretty ambitious build.

FF?

[Hosejockey61]

Moving it all outside for routering. One tool I think is awesome for routering is my bench cookies from Rockler. When you lay you piece of wood on them, it doesn't move or slide at all. Plus it elevates them which allows you to router completely through your board without hitting your work surface below.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1680.jpg

As far as my router, I used a Skil 1810. Instead of the Jasper jig, I chose to go with the Router Buddy as it is built more solidly and can adjusted to exactly your desire. The Jasper jig only does 1/16" increments. If your router plate isn't dead center over your bit, then it will be off. The Router Buddy is a PITA though to get it set perfectly. I STRONGLY recommend testing on a scrap piece first. I would do that anyway even with the Jasper jig.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1699.jpg

You need to cut your recessed area first. Afterward you can cut the inner circle.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1695.jpg

There was still a small piece where the cutout was. This can be trimmed up with a razor knife.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1698.jpg

The last thing I did was check to make sure the tweeter fit perfectly.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1693.jpg

[Hosejockey61]

Next, I moved on to the woofer cutouts. Watching the router bit cut right on the line reassured me everything was going good.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1700.jpg

After cutting out the first hole, I checked to ensure a perfect fit.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1701.jpg

One thing I did to help keep the dust down was to attached my shopvac to the work surface. Instead of vaccuum, I used it to blow the dust away from my work area.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1685.jpg

[Hosejockey61]

At the end of the day I had a beautiful sight on the ground. Overall, it was very time consuming to ensure everything was cut right, but worth the effort.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1704.jpg

The finished product turned out awesome.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1705.jpg

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1707.jpg

[exojam]

HJ,

Looking very nice. Quick question, what is that black device in the first picture in post 11? Thanks.

James

[Hosejockey61]

HJ,

Looking very nice. Quick question, what is that black device in the first picture in post 11? Thanks.

James

That's the base plate for the router buddy jig.

[exojam]

Very interesting. Thanks.

James

[RINNAV]

Good thread and tips! I like the shopvac dust collection setup--sometimes it's the simple things... I should start posting pics of the progress on my build but I feel that I should wait until the end to ensure I am not embarrased by all the talent here:D

Jason

[Hosejockey61]

I should start posting pics of the progress on my build but I feel that I should wait until the end to ensure I am not embarrased by all the talent here:D

Jason

Lol...I started this project a couple of weeks ago. I'm on vacation right now and am just now finding time to post the pictures.

[Randall Kepley]

Great thread HJ, looks like you did get quite a bit done, one thing. You said the router buddy is a PITA to set up. Now that can be true but its well worth the effort. Nothing else one the market comes close to the accuracy of that unit though, except maybe CNC. Are you using a pair of Dial Calipers on your set up? Or just eyeballing it? R.K.

[Hosejockey61]

Great thread HJ, looks like you did get quite a bit done, one thing. You said the router buddy is a PITA to set up. Now that can be true but its well worth the effort. Nothing else one the market comes close to the accuracy of that unit though, except maybe CNC. Are you using a pair of Dial Calipers on your set up? Or just eyeballing it? R.K.

Oh I agree, it is as accurate as you want it to be. I have a pair of calipers but I still run a test cut to verify or adjust as necessary.

[arlis_1957@yahoo.com]

number one; does you handle mean your a fireman? if so, i salute you.
and b; you really do nice work.
and 2c; i lived in aroura for a few years a very long time ago. on scranton street near delmar.
keep it coming, this will indeed help those afraid to take the plunge.

[Hosejockey61]

number one; does you handle mean your a fireman? if so, i salute you.
and b; you really do nice work.
and 2c; i lived in aroura for a few years a very long time ago. on scranton street near delmar.
keep it coming, this will indeed help those afraid to take the plunge.

Thanks lol! Yeah I work for a metro area fire department full time and volunteered for almost ten years.

Thanks for the compliments and feedback! The other build threads and expert help certainly helped me out so far.

[mattk]

number one; does you handle mean your a fireman? if so, i salute you.
and b; you really do nice work.
and 2c; i lived in aroura for a few years a very long time ago. on scranton street near delmar.
....

I went to Hinkley, my brother & sisters to Gateway (and one lives in SE Aurora). I could have gone to Gateway as it opened during my senior year, but unlike the last governor, I decided to stay at Hinkley.

[Hosejockey61]

I decided that after making all of the baffles, to remake the LCR baffles. Since I want these recessed into the wall, I made them 3/8" wider all around so they will hide any reveal.

Lucky Steve Henry was the first to claim the original ones for free. I just couldn't let all that labor go down the drain. :rolleyes:

[Hosejockey61]

Prior to gluing the baffles on, I drilled the holes for speaker mounting. I routed a chamfer along the back side where the speaker drops in. (sorry no pics). I used a small ruler to ensure everything was squared up and symetrical.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1749.jpg
http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1748.jpg

Center punch again to make sure the drill bit stays true. I drill press would surely be nice in this case but not absolutely necessary.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1750.jpg
http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1751.jpg

Once they were chamfered, I went ahead and installed the hurricane T nuts. I know some have had problems with them falling out when trying to attach the bolt. Some have glued or siliconed them in place. I did some tests that actually worked out well for me. Instead of drilling the 1/4" hole, I drilled a 7/32" hole. I then used a pair of vise grips to hold the T nut directly over the hole while I gently tapped the T nut until it started to take. Then I hammered them in the rest of the way (gently of course). The T nut goes in straighter as it is tight to the sides, and it stays in place without glue or silicone etc.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1755.jpg

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1756.jpg

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1757.jpg

[Hosejockey61]

Prior to assembly, I wanted to pre drill the holes to mount the crossovers. I made sure to take care in placement that will allow for the easiest removal if necessary (crossovers are already done, just out of order with this thread). Before placing them I made sure to take into account where the other sides, top etc. would be. I also took into account where my binding posts would come into the box as well so there were no conflicts in the space. I decided to screw the boards down instead of hot glue or other methods. Again, I was looking for the easiest removal if needed to change out Xover parts.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1744.jpg

I was sure to only drill the needed depth for the screw. An old woodworkers tip is to place a piece of tape at the depth needed. When drilling, you stop when the tape gets to the surface.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1742.jpg

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1743.jpg

[Hosejockey61]

That brings me to the assembly phase. Even with perfectly square edges and all the pieces cut the same, I still had some pieces that were slightly off when they dried. I haven't tried the corner clamps (Lunchmoney uses these) but may spring the cash for the next project. Another method mentioned earlier is cutting the pieces slightly long and then flush trimming them. I had perfect pieces and still had to flush trim a little. The glue up can be frustrating as the glue allows the pieces to slide all over the place as you try to set the clamps. I prefer not to use screws as that just creates more finish work down the road.

I agree with lunchmoney that you should have a clamp around every six inches if possible. Be careful with the 3/4" pony clamps. You can easily distort your wood if overtightened. They sure are nice though. The squeeze clamps from Harbor Freight are junk when used for clamping. But if you turn the heads around you can use them for spreading. I found this need when the ends would suck in and not line up the way I needed. The spreader easily pushed them back into alignment.

Don't even try to worry about glue getting everywhere...it just does. After the final clamp has been set you can go back with a wet rag and wip up the excess if necessary.

On another note, If I were to be using actual wood such as oak, I definately would put some sort of protection between the clamp and the wood so it doesn't leave a nasty mark. I wasn't that concerned in this case.

Not much else on assembly. Repeat. Drink beer and wait. Repeat. Drink more beer. :cool:

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1768.jpg

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1767.jpg

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1761.jpg

[Hosejockey61]

Once my boxes were all glued up, I took a good look. Imagine that....not everything was perfect.:eek: With the glue everywhere during assembly, I used my fingers to "feel" the alignment. My guess is that there was still a slight amount of movement when doing final clamping. Sheeesh now what? Throw out the whole project? Hardly. Woodworking is all about shaping your wood. I may be off 1/16" of an inch but that wasn't going to stop me! That all got fixed during the finishing project.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1784.jpg

I used a flush trim bit to get it back to somewhat perfect (is there such a thing as somewhat perfect:confused::rolleyes:)

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1783.jpg

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1785.jpg

After that it was time to pull out "Big Hoss". This is one of my Craigslist purchases that I LOVE! It's a Grizzly 6"x48" belt sander with a 12" disc sander. These sell new for over $600 and I picked it up for $150 with a stand and dust collection port......yeah.....I should have used the dust collection port.:rolleyes:

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1787.jpg

[Hosejockey61]

Now please understand that you don't have to have your own "Big Hoss". You can accomplish the same thing with a normal belt sander or orbital sander (although it will take you longer). I was able to completely sand all sides of every box in less than 20 minutes. Every side, corner, edge....all flush with each other. That thing is phenomenal! I did have a belt break in the middle of sanding one of the boxes....sounded like a shotgun went off! :eek: I about crapped myself! Once I verified all of my 9 3/4 fingers were still there I changed out to a new belt. Now that everything is flush and smooth, I will move on to the Bondo phase.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1788.jpg

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1781.jpg

On a VERY SERIOUS note, get yourself a respirator and GOOD eye protection. I definitely could have used one here. Even with a dust mask, I still had dust around my eyes mouth and nose. Not good. Leasson learned. Please learn from my mistake! It certainly did not seem like that much dust was flying around at the time.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1790.jpg

[djg]

Spooky. I have access to a sander like that one. What a great tool. Your boxes look nice.

[Steve Henry]

Excellent build thread with some very good tips. I look forward to the finishing.

[johnastockman]

A note on MDF. You've probably already read on here about how dusty it is and how it's bad for your respiratory system. I used a standard dust mask and looking back, would strongly advise to get something that makes a good seal to your face. After cutting, I pulled off my mask and still had some dust around my mouth and nose.

Hearing protection is strongly recommended too...gotta hear the speakers when you are done! In addition, it keeps the MDF dust from collecting in your ears.

MDF dust gets EVERYWHERE! My son left his window open on the second floor and I didn't know it. He had a layer of MDF dust on his dresser.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/IMGP2301.jpg

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/IMGP2302.jpg


Get a particulate respirator. Yes, even working outside. With asthma, I could never use a white dust mask, even though I tried. The wheezing would be immediately noticeable. Not so with a simple particulate respirator. And the respirator has a better seal around your face...with replaceable filters. I got one quite a while ago at HD for $25. Excellent investment and I still have it. You want your DIY speakers to really take your breath away, safely.

John A.

[absolootbs]

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1767.jpg

weird, i have that same drill, soldering station, scroll saw, and even the green measuring tape. we must be tool soulmates. ha ha ha.

nice looking build so far. keep up the good work.

[50 watt head]

Wonderful photos, nice build thread! :)

[Hosejockey61]

Ok....I routered my baffle edges today and started the finishing process finally. More on that after the crossovers....

I actually started the crossovers at the same time I started cutting wood. It was my first crossover build so I relied heavily on the forum....especially Curt C. I was amazed at the speed he would return emails. He understood that I was new to this and took the time to explain some things to me. What a true ambassador to this forum.

I'll be the first to admit that I don't know crap about crossovers or speaker design. Don't be afraid to ask questions....there is a ton of people here that will help you.

I watched the PE crossover build a few times to make sure I would be comfortable with it. Then I realized it wasn't the same way Curt had assembled it. Come to find out, they are virtually the same electrically so it still would work. I chose to stay true to Curt's design and assemble it the same way he did. After doing that, I posted pictures of it to have others look it over to make sure it was right. Then I just duplicated it for the others.

Now, with all that said, I certainly would have changed some things. Not with his design, but the way I connected the wires to the leads. On the LCR version, there are 4 negative wires coming off of the little bitty wire from the caps and coil....not very sturdy. Trying to connect 4 wires to that one lead caused me problems. I think I found a workable solution but the right thing to do would have been to install a terminal strip to the crossover board. Lesson learned.

If you have never soldered before, I strongly suggest looking up some tutorials on youtube. When soldering near a part such as a cap, clamp a pair of vice grips or something between the cap and the joint. This allows the vice grip to act as a heat sink helping to prevent damage to the xover parts.

Crossover for Sealed MTM....note that I used a pair of 10ohm resistors to test for in wall use.
http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1739.jpg

Crossover for MT
http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1741.jpg

Various pictures of both...

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1737.jpg

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1736.jpg

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1630.jpg

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1628.jpg

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1627.jpg

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1622.jpg

[Hosejockey61]

Here is my solution to wire issues. Where the four negative wires come off is still fragile and could break down the road. I am looking for a way to solve that prior to installing the board inside the box.

Also, where the common ground is attached to the center of the board for the MT's...I should have had an extra 18 inches of wire coming off of both sides so I had room to work. I could have hooked the one end up directly to the binding post without having to add a connector. Lesson learned.:rolleyes:

MTM
http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1769.jpg

MT
http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1766.jpg

My solution to combining 4 wires...
http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1771.jpg

[turn2]

Normally I just cannot wade through a build thread, but this is great! You are a good photographer who knows how to size the photos. Documentation is superb. I'm learning a lot, but unfortunately reminded just how inferior I am at woodworking.

Keep it going.

[cwad8505]

Great thread.. wanted to let you know about something that I do to eliminate the issue of wires moving and possibly breaking after some use. I always drill 2 small holes where a wire will leave the board and just thread it down from the top of the board and back up. This should keep the connection prior to that point from moving around and creating a week spot. Hope this helps!
Pic attached showing this.. Awesome job! Chris

[PWR RYD]

Your photography is fantastic! What are you using to take these images? I absolutely love to follow threads like this because of the ideas I can get from the pictures. I try to post threads showing my projects, but my wimpy cell phone camera and lame photography skills limit their quality :(

Keep up the great work!

[Hosejockey61]

Your photography is fantastic! What are you using to take these images?

A camera. :rolleyes:







lol just kidding...I have a Nikon D5000 SLR. You can see it covered in MDF dust in post #31.

[arlis_1957@yahoo.com]

damn firfighter, you got a paint booth too?
no, really. you do really nice work and seem to plan ahead and think about things. thus far, you should be pleased with yourself. are these for the living room or destined for a theater in the basement?

[Hosejockey61]

Well, now I'm in the finishing stage...not sure I like it so far.

I have read many a thread here about finishing and decided to just go with plain ol' Bondo body filler. I had just sanded my boxes down with Big Hoss and there were very few imperfections to fix. I thought i would try to still cover the entire exterior of the box for consistency. Having never played with bondo before I think this might have been a mistake....not sure though because i don't have that experience. If you choose to use bondo...work fast. That crap sets up in 4-5 minutes. I was trying to be too specific in its application allowing it to harden before I had most of it scraped off.

I took the boxes outside today and started sanding them with my orbital sander. Bondo seems to sand ok but my sandpaper gummed up pretty quickly. With my boxes already being all but perfectly smooth, I think the addition of the bondo created more problems for me than I needed. the bondo was surely needed to fill the minute cracks and pits but that's it. I decided that before I ruin these boxes I should just use Big Hoss to get them back to normal. These things were flat again and the cracks and pits filled.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1793.jpg

The red arrow points to an imperfection that needed filled. A good way to determine where your imperfections are is to hold a light really close to the surface pointing away...every imperfection will show some sort of shadow.
The yellow arrows point to some sort of residue that was left from my bar clamps (the plastic covers). These were removed during sanding.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1798.jpg

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1797.jpg

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1795.jpg

[Hosejockey61]

damn firfighter, you got a paint booth too?
no, really. you do really nice work and seem to plan ahead and think about things. thus far, you should be pleased with yourself. are these for the living room or destined for a theater in the basement?

Nah, no paint booth. And actually, I am starting to feel stress with the finishing stage. That damn bondo had me all worked up lol! My big sander bailed me out though.

These speakers are destined for my basement theater (thread link below)

[Hosejockey61]

After sanding on the big sander I returned to my orbital sander. All sides were sanded with 120 and then finished up with 220. They appear to have turned out very well....that kind of scares me. I double checked all seams to make sure they are filled. I am planning on painting them although not sure what yet. A piano finish is out...I prefer a satin type finish.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1799.jpg

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1802.jpg

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1800.jpg


Unless anyone else has any suggestions or must do's, these are ready for primer.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1804.jpg

[ckmoore]

Not sure if you have read this thread, but it is highly recommended for the sealing MDF information therein.

Long, but worth the read.
http://techtalk.parts-express.com/showthread.php?t=214399

[Hosejockey61]

Not sure if you have read this thread, but it is highly recommended for the sealing MDF information therein.

Long, but worth the read.
http://techtalk.parts-express.com/showthread.php?t=214399

I read that yesterday...yes very long but it is a great read. There were so many opinions that I decided to go with plain bondo to smooth things out. As far as sealing, I'm still trying to decide on the method I will use.

Dave's experiment was awesome. I'm just still trying to decide.

[davepellegrene]

I read that yesterday...yes very long but it is a great read. There were so many opinions that I decided to go with plain bondo to smooth things out. As far as sealing, I'm still trying to decide on the method I will use.

Dave's experiment was awesome. I'm just still trying to decide.

Great build so far. Don't let the finish work scare you. Screwing up is the best way to learn what not to do. My suggestion at this point is Bin 123 or kilz alcohol base if spraying. Oil if brushing or rolling. Spray if possible. Let dry 24 hours. Sand with 220. If it gums at all more dry time. After sanding if all looks good. Spray a coat of paint. Paint seems to be the best sealer and it will show you any imperfections before the final coat. Let dry 24 hours then sand with 400 dry. The dry sanding lets you see the orange peel. Sand it down until it's all smooth. Shoot final coat. This seems to be a very simple and effective method for me anyway. But by all means do what your comfortable with. Some seem to like to hit the end grain on the MDF with 50/50 glue/ water first. Each to his own. Just be careful not to have any build up of glue because it dries hard and your primer is soft and you may end up with raised spots if you sand into the glue.
Have fun
Dave

[GregKramer]

I noticed the resistors were touching each other in the one photo, for the final build make sure then can get air in between them to reduce the heat.

They look great! Good luck on the finish.

[Ryan]

Great documentation , looks great so far! Can't wait to see the completed project.

[arlis_1957@yahoo.com]

my method for that finish is to seal with bullseye sealer, red primer, light sanding, flat black until pretty, semi gloss waterbased finish.
http://i413.photobucket.com/albums/pp216/arlis/thin%20mtm/IMG_4528.jpg

[Hosejockey61]

Great build so far. Don't let the finish work scare you. Screwing up is the best way to learn what not to do. My suggestion at this point is Bin 123 or kilz alcohol base if spraying. Oil if brushing or rolling. Spray if possible.
Dave

Well, I started the finishing process and took Dave's advice and screwed thing up...:rolleyes: Not too bad though. Whenever people advise you against rolling, take their advice. I figured since it was the sealing coat, I would sand any imperfections out. That's exactly what I had to do. I DIY'd my projector's 138" screen and that turned out very well. I thought I'd apply the same technique to my boxes. My screen is flat, my apeaker boxes aren't. So when I would make a pass on one side, it would have a little overrun on the adjacent corner. Now I used a high density foam roller for a smooth finish and it did turn out good....with the exception of a couple of corners. No problem though...sanded them out smooth again.

I decided since it's MDF, to apply a second coat of primer to ensure everything is completely sealed. The BIN primer is almost as thin as water which allowed it to soak in nicely. I thought I'd have more end grain fibers swell up but it was pretty nuetral.

This is after the first coat of primer was applied. The spare baffle in the foreground was a test subject with some "hammered" texture paint I had laying around. It might look good in a darker color. Not sure if I'll spend the 7 bucks to find out though.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1805.jpg

The next couple of pictures shows some of the over run spots at the corners.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1806.jpg

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1807.jpg

The next couple of pictures show what can happen if you don't lock your garage door down while painting. I was in the middle of painting and my wife came home and opened the garage door on me. Naturally, the breeze kicks some dust around and a dog hair found it necessary to embed itself in the paint. Lesson learned. ALWAYS pulled your emergeny release on the garage door when painting so it can't inadvertantly be opened!

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1808.jpg

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1809.jpg

Now it's back to outside and a light sanding with 220 grit sandpaper. All I did was direct the orbital sander where to go. There was no need to apply additional pressure other than the weight of the sander itself.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1813.jpg

After sanding, I took my air compressor and blew the dust off. Once back inside, they were wiped with a tack rag to remove the remaining dust.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1814.jpg

This is a picture that shows how much the light sanding took it down. Time for primer coat number two.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1815.jpg

Primer coat number two done now. I was very careful this time with my overlaps at the corners. I think I could even pull off a rolled paint coat now that I have a really good feel for it. However, I will still spray instead. I just can't imagine that it would looked as good rolled. Before I apply my first paint coat, I will sand these lightly by hand with 400 grit sandpaper. But I will wait a day to ensure the primer is completely dry.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1816.jpg

[Wolf]

Yes- time is what you have to have!

If you can hit it with 400g, and the surface is smooth to the touch (almost buttery soft), you are ready for paint. I would then also hit with 1000g lightly if you have any and wipe the cabs down.

I use my hands to find any texture or voids in the primer and painting steps. By then I usually have so much primer dust on my finger tips that the oils in my hands aren't a problem.

You may have to sand your first few coats of paint with 400/1000 too, depending on how it sets up.

Have fun!
Wolf

[Hosejockey61]

Well, it's a good thing I have time. I started surfing through the threads for spray gun information, and man let me tell you, it's gonna take awhile!

I'm not a big fan of Harbor Freight unless it's something that is cheap and I plan on only using it a couple of times. However, after reading posts here it sounds like they may provide me with some options.

Sheesh for $13 this makes it almost worth it as a disposable paint gun...use it once and not have to worry about cleanup etc. Definately not the "green" way to go but cheap enough.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/image_2446.jpg

I have a compressor, hose and all the fittings so I'm am NOT looking to purchase an all in one set up like these:

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/image_1091.jpg

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/61577-02-500.jpg

I think based on others reviews here I am leaning towards this from HF:

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/image_1732.jpg

As usual, I am soliciting opinions but will continue to sift through the other threads alsready posted on the spray gun topic.

[davepellegrene]

Well, it's a good thing I have time. I started surfing through the threads for spray gun information, and man let me tell you, it's gonna take awhile!

I'm not a big fan of Harbor Freight unless it's something that is cheap and I plan on only using it a couple of times. However, after reading posts here it sounds like they may provide me with some options.

Sheesh for $13 this makes it almost worth it as a disposable paint gun...use it once and not have to worry about cleanup etc. Definately not the "green" way to go but cheap enough.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/image_2446.jpg

I have a compressor, hose and all the fittings so I'm am NOT looking to purchase an all in one set up like these:

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/image_1091.jpg

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/61577-02-500.jpg

I think based on others reviews here I am leaning towards this from HF:

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/image_1732.jpg

As usual, I am soliciting opinions but will continue to sift through the other threads alsready posted on the spray gun topic.

If you plan on doing this a while I would learn to use a spray gun. Like everything else it has a learning curve and usually by the time your done you've figured all the things not to do. You do get what you pay for like anything else but I'm sure the HF gun will be a considerable step above rattle cans. It just seams rattle cans have so much thinner in them by the time the paint dries out there isn't much left. I've had pretty good luck with the Rustoleum oil base paint from HD. It's pretty forgiving for a first time sprayer. Takes a while to set up so you can take your time and do thin coats. The disadvantage to long dry time is if you get it on to thick it will run. You can also get a pretty good finish with the oil based Rustoleum and a roller. Especially if your wanting a satin finish.
Dave

[Hosejockey61]

Not a whole lot of progress going on over the last few days. I was going to paint the boxes after I picked up a sprayer, but I just haven't had any free time lately.

I decided to assemble all the speakers and cut my wires to length etc. so after paint it should just be a snap together process. My wife complained that she wanted to spend time together last night so I had her come to the basement so she could watch Law and Order on the projector while I assembled boxes on the bar behind her. :D She looked at me and rolled her eyes.

Anyway, I'll attach pictures tomorrow when I'm home from work. One problem I ran into was with the tweeter cutouts. I used the router buddy to make them fit with no reveal on the sides. I dry fit everything when I initially routed them out so I know they fit pre-assembly. Last night, in three of my boxes, the tweeter wouldn't fit in the cutout. the only thing that comes to mind is that they have been sitting in the garage waiting for paint. Maybe the primer swelled those edges ever so slightly or maybe it was just the humidity difference between the garage and the basement.....not sure, pretty dry here. By the time I get back to them, they will have had two days to acclimate to the basement. If I still have a fitting problem then i will take my Dremel and carefully hone it out until it fits.

More tomorrow...

[50 watt head]

My wife complained that she wanted to spend time together last night so I had her come to the basement so she could watch Law and Order on the projector while I assembled boxes on the bar behind her. :D She looked at me and rolled her eyes.

And all of us in the congregation with forgiving/understanding/patient/tolerant/long-suffering spouses say: "AMEN"

[davepellegrene]

Not a whole lot of progress going on over the last few days. I was going to paint the boxes after I picked up a sprayer, but I just haven't had any free time lately.

I decided to assemble all the speakers and cut my wires to length etc. so after paint it should just be a snap together process. My wife complained that she wanted to spend time together last night so I had her come to the basement so she could watch Law and Order on the projector while I assembled boxes on the bar behind her. :D She looked at me and rolled her eyes.

Anyway, I'll attach pictures tomorrow when I'm home from work. One problem I ran into was with the tweeter cutouts. I used the router buddy to make them fit with no reveal on the sides. I dry fit everything when I initially routed them out so I know they fit pre-assembly. Last night, in three of my boxes, the tweeter wouldn't fit in the cutout. the only thing that comes to mind is that they have been sitting in the garage waiting for paint. Maybe the primer swelled those edges ever so slightly or maybe it was just the humidity difference between the garage and the basement.....not sure, pretty dry here. By the time I get back to them, they will have had two days to acclimate to the basement. If I still have a fitting problem then i will take my Dremel and carefully hone it out until it fits.

More tomorrow...

I found when recessing the drivers I go one size larger on the cut out. Seems the wood always expands and by the time you get finish build up they still fit. I've had to many occasions the driver doesn't fit after I'm finished when I start with a perfect fit at the beginning.

Dave

[Mark65]

I had her come to the basement so she could watch Law and Order on the projector while I assembled boxes on the bar behind her. :D She looked at me and rolled her eyes.


That is the funniest thing that I've read in a good long while. I laughed until I cried, took a little bit to recover, then laughed my a$$ off again. Been there, done that. AWESOME description. Oh, and BTW, stellar work on your project!:cool:

Mark

[Soundslike]

I haven't visited your thread since you moved from the gallery. Just wanted to compliment you on the nice job you're doing -- they're looking great. Also, great job on the write-up. Lot of good information here..

[jonpike]

Great thread, great documentation... keep it up!

On the paint guns... yeah, know how HF can vary from "great deal" to "not worth the far cheaper than anyone else's price"... Is that last gun a HVLP? I know they have a compressor driven one, as well as the grey turbine gun. A HVLP type is nice in that you use less paint and overspray a lot less.

In case you didn't know, the HVLP types needs a LOT of air volume, >10-20cu ft/min.... a smaller compressor won't cut it. Check their specs to see how much air they need. If you don't have a big compressor, you'll be spraying, running out of pressure, waiting, spraying some more, waiting, etc...

The self contained turbines have the advantage if you don't have a big compressor. The grey one looks like the one Rockler sells for about $100 (sale $80), I've never been able to determine if the HF one is the same one or a copy. The HF version is cheaper. I own the Rockler gun, it's a good one. There's a even cheaper HF HVLP gun, it's pretty bad.

On the tweeter holes... could be humidity, but there's always the paint/primer thickness factor. A few layers can be thicker than you'd think. Haven't had it happen to me, but have heard more than a few find out that that super close rabbet won't quite fit after the painting is done!

Oh, and on the eye rolling situation... explain how after you get out of the "construction phase" there will be all kinds of time together enjoying great sounding music and TV... :D (at least until the next project)

[djg]

Seven little boxes is really a big project. If you hang in there and keep the same quality of work, you will have a very nice system. And like childbirth, the pain will fade and you will be thinking of the next project.

[Hosejockey61]

Seven little boxes is really a big project. If you hang in there and keep the same quality of work, you will have a very nice system. And like childbirth, the pain will fade and you will be thinking of the next project.

Ahhhh there is no pain at all...only problems to be solved. I really LOVE this stuff and can't wait for the next one!

[Hosejockey61]

OK,

I decided to go with white speakers so they will blend into the wall....

What do you think?

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1827.jpg

[Hosejockey61]

:eek::eek::eek:You know I'm just messing with you all....final paint still to be determined.:D

[Hosejockey61]

Ok, so I decided to assemble the speakers prior to paint and I am very glad I did. You think you are cruising along good only to find more problems. The first of which was that in a few of the speakers, the tweeter fit fine pre-assembly but now is have an issue seating correctly. I don't want to force it and have the MDF flake up so I will have to dremel the edge just a tiny bit.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1825.jpg

I am so very glad that I pre-drilled the holes for the crossovers prior to assembly. It is pretty difficult to work in that tiny space.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1819.jpg

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1821.jpg

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1823.jpg

The one tool that really made it easier is my little ratchet screwdriver. Once on the screwhead, you can just ratchet it without have to move your hand a whole lot....really worked out nice!

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1822.jpg

[Hosejockey61]

Do you ever have one of those days when you think to yourself "what the @$#! was I thinking"?

When I was assembling one of the MT's I discovered that I glued the baffle on upside down. :eek: This wouldn't be a big deal with the exception that I already drilled my binding post holes. I had the BP holes placed toward the bottom of the box....in the picture you can see that they are now at the top of the box....which is totally unacceptable to me.:mad: Had I painted already I would be fuming right now:mad:

At least now I can still bondo the holes and drill new holes. I will then have to prime again over the bondo. More unnecessary work....I wish I would have paid attention better.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1826.jpg

[djg]

You could fill those with dowel for a more secure fix.

[davepellegrene]

You could fill those with dowel for a more secure fix.

That sounds like a good idea except I bet since these are built from MDF and are getting painted, with the way it expands/ contracts, a circle from the end of the dowel would show up. Especially since wood doesn't expand length wise very much. You might be able to use a plug cutter and make it from MDF. Even with that probably about a 1/4" into the cut the plug would break off. I think the body putty is the way to go. I would even fill it so there is a slight layer over the surface. In other words don't sand it down all the way so you see a clear circle.
Dave

[djg]

Well, I should have added to knock the dowel into the hole so it is below the surface, then bondo. I suppose bondo would be fine all by itself.

[mtmpenn]

Were are you planning to put the MT's?

Maybe I'm lazy, but I would be carefully considering just having a pair with high binding posts if they were going in a corner or on a wall. I also hate painting so try to avoid it.

Mike

[davepellegrene]

Well, I should have added to knock the dowel into the hole so it is below the surface, then bondo. I suppose bondo would be fine all by itself.

I just recently had a screw head filled with bondo show slightly after six months on a high gloss finish. Only reason I brought it up. I believe Hosejockey said he was painting with semi gloss so it probably won't show.
Dave

[Hosejockey61]

Were are you planning to put the MT's?

Maybe I'm lazy, but I would be carefully considering just having a pair with high binding posts if they were going in a corner or on a wall. I also hate painting so try to avoid it.

Mike

Two of the MT's will be on the walls next to the couch and the other two hung above behind the couch....you can see a wire hanging in the bar area picture.

[Hosejockey61]

I just recently had a screw head filled with bondo show slightly after six months on a high gloss finish. Only reason I brought it up. I believe Hosejockey said he was painting with semi gloss so it probably won't show.
Dave

Do you have any suggestions other than bondo? I don't have a plug bit. If I do bondo I will do like you suggested and feather it out from the holes to conceal it a little better.

I have a better idea...why not do it right the first time!!!! :mad:

[davepellegrene]

Do you have any suggestions other than bondo? I don't have a plug bit. If I do bondo I will do like you suggested and feather it out from the holes to conceal it a little better.

I have a better idea...why not do it right the first time!!!! :mad:

At least it isn't as bad as drilling the offset tweeter on the same side of the cabinets rather then opposite. Bondo should work fine as long as you feather it out over the hole. That way it will move up and down with the expansion of the MDF. I live in a high humidity area so if anything is going to happen it does here. Some say they have no problems with expansion that causes issues.

Dave

[john trials]

Do you have any suggestions other than bondo? I don't have a plug bit. If I do bondo I will do like you suggested and feather it out from the holes to conceal it a little better.

I have a better idea...why not do it right the first time!!!! :mad:

You don't need a plug bit. Get a wooden dowel from the hardware store.

I had to relocate binding post holes on one of my speakers. I enlarged the holes (with a slightly smaller diameter compared to the dowel). Then I hammered in a couple of dowel pieces that were slightly long. Once the glue dried, I sanded the dowels flush. You may want to finish with some Bondo for paint finish...I used veneer.

Nice build thread, by the way. Looks like a really nice set of speakers!

[Hosejockey61]

At least it isn't as bad as drilling the offset tweeter on the same side of the cabinets rather then opposite. Dave

You know, the one thing I think I will take away from the project is that MDF is relatively cheap. I think making an extra baffle while doing the others doesn't add a whole lot of time to the project. Everything is already set up and all of the cuts will be consistent. However, going back afterwards is such a PITA to reset up everything.

Unless you are doing large towers, I would even consider making an extra MT box...then take the best of all of them.

Then again, I could just do it right the first time...:rolleyes:

[Hosejockey61]

You don't need a plug bit. Get a wooden dowel from the hardware store.

I had to relocate binding post holes on one of my speakers. I enlarged the holes (with a slightly smaller diameter compared to the dowel). Then I hammered in a couple of dowel pieces that were slightly long. Once the glue dried, I sanded the dowels flush. You may want to finish with some Bondo for paint finish...I used veneer.

Nice build thread, by the way. Looks like a really nice set of speakers!

I'm wondering though if the dowels could expand like wood normally does causing the surface area to possible show or crack even if the dowel is recessed a little and capped with bondo. Bondo, by itself, I think will be benign in that application. In addition, feathering it out slightly away from the hole will probably help conceal it better.

[TrickyMike]

I'm wondering though if the dowels could expand like wood normally does causing the surface area to possible show or crack even if the dowel is recessed a little and capped with bondo. Bondo, by itself, I think will be benign in that application. In addition, feathering it out slightly away from the hole will probably help conceal it better.

Yeah, I think any of the above will probably work out just fine. I'd go the dowel route, personally. And hey, it's the back of the cabinet, right? ;)
Those look great, by the way.

[davepellegrene]

I would even consider making an extra MT box...then take the best of all of them.



I do that quite often. Not only on speaker builds but all kinds of projects were you may make a mistake. One that comes to mind is building cabinets with drawers. I always run off extra draw pieces. As you point out the price of MDF and the time it takes to go back and set up again is well worth the extra parts.
Another way to fill the holes, if your looking for one, is epoxy. You could use the double syringe type. Put tape over the back side and pour it in. That would lock in the best of any method. I would still do a layer of bondo on top. I would also back up the tape with something like a block of wood. Sometimes the epoxy will soften the glue on the tape and it will let loose.
Dave

[RINNAV]

I do that quite often. Not only on speaker builds but all kinds of projects were you may make a mistake. One that comes to mind is building cabinets with drawers. I always run off extra draw pieces. As you point out the price of MDF and the time it takes to go back and set up again is well worth the extra parts.
Another way to fill the holes, if your looking for one, is epoxy. You could use the double syringe type. Put tape over the back side and pour it in. That would lock in the best of any method. I would still do a layer of bondo on top. I would also back up the tape with something like a block of wood. Sometimes the epoxy will soften the glue on the tape and it will let loose.
Dave

Dave, due to the nature of the MDF does it really expand/contract like grained wood? I would think not much or maybe not linearly. However, I defer to your experience as it is immeasurably more than my humble dust time...

Jason

[Soundslike]

Regarding whether MDF expands and contracts with changing humidity, I believe that's what causes the often discussed faint line that almost always shows between two assembled and paint finished pieces. I once got some MDF wet, and it swelled dramatically on the ends -- probably an eighth of an inch. I haven't tested for length-wise growth, but I imagine that happens too.

[RINNAV]

Regarding whether MDF expands and contracts with changing humidity, I believe that's what causes the often discussed faint line that almost always shows between two assembled and paint finished pieces. I once got some MDF wet, and it swelled dramatically on the ends -- probably an eighth of an inch. I haven't tested for length-wise growth, but I imagine that happens too.

That makes sense, for some reason I wasn't thinking about the effects of humidity and swelling...

Jason

[mgrabow]

Hosejockey61, you have very nice attention to detail.

[davepellegrene]

Dave, due to the nature of the MDF does it really expand/contract like grained wood? I would think not much or maybe not linearly. However, I defer to your experience as it is immeasurably more than my humble dust time...

Jason

Wood expands mostly in the width and thickness. Think of a tree it will expand out in all directions but hardly at all in the length. MDF expands in the thickness. Mainly because it is a highly compressed material. Any moisture exposed to it, in my belief breaks down the glue and allows it to expand. It hardly if any expands in the width or length. This is my concern with a dowel rod. It will not expand in the length filling the hole in the MDF but when you expose the MDF to moisture, as you will putting finish on it, it will expand showing a dimple in the finish. Problem people have with MDF building boxes with b u t t seams is the expansion of the panel b u t t ing into the other panel expands/ contracts causing the seam to show up. Look at my Trench Seam Method in my signature below. It shows the only method I have been able to come up with to stop it. Again I live in a high humidity area in the summer and cold region in the winter so my furnace dries out my house in the winter. Creating a lot of expansion contraction.
Lets not turn the great build into an MDF thread. :) Here is a link for that. http://techtalk.parts-express.com/showthread.php?t=214399 I cover quite a few methods of finish.


Dave

[Hosejockey61]

Well, finally made some progress since last post. I fixed the tight tweeter fit by using my Dremel with a sanding drum. I knew this was going to be tough as I didn't want to make the perfectly round hole become an oblong hole! I did it only by feel and speed and took very little off with each pass. Worked like a charm and I was back in business.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1828.jpg

After sanding I ensured they fit properly once more.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1831.jpg

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1832.jpg

[Hosejockey61]

After fixing the tweeter holes I had to drill new holes for my binding posts on one of my MT's as I glued the baffle on upside down. I also patched the other holes with bondo. I was debating on inserting a dowel but I thought if it became humid it might swell just enough to crack the surface. I won't have that problem with bondo (time will tell).

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1833.jpg

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1834.jpg

With all of that done, I assembled the speakers and took them for a test drive.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1827-1.jpg

[Hosejockey61]

Test drive impression.

I set the LCR on the floor in front of the screen and the four MT's on the kneewall behind the couch. I did not put the stuffing in yet as I will wait for final assembly.

At first, they all seemed a little muffled. I never really believed a speaker would need any break in but let me tell you, it significantly improved after about 3-4 hours of play time. Initially, I didn't adjust my AVR as I was going to wait until they were complete and mounted. But who the heck can wait for that! So after a little tweaking I was absolutely impressed! These things just kept getting better and better...and they aren't even stuffed or mounted yet!

I have had them hooked up for the last several days and figured if I don't disconnect them now I will never finish this project! My son started complaining once I brought them offline and I still haven't heard the end of it yet!

So, here I am disassembling them and getting them ready for paint.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1853.jpg

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1854.jpg

[Hosejockey61]

Well, I thought before I paint them I would take them for a paint "test drive". I did all of this with photoshop and I am glad I did. I really gave me a GREAT idea of what to expect the final product to look like.

The following are the samples I'm considering. I am very open to others providing suggestions or a nod for their favorite.

I figured I'd start off with a black version since it is simple.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/SpeakerpainttestBlack.jpg

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/Speakerpainttestblack2.jpg


Then I decided to go with a burgandy both a light and darker version:

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/Speakerpainttestburgandy.jpg

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/Speakerpainttestdarkburgandy.jpg


After that, I really wanted to see what a two tone would look like:

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/Speakerpainttestblackonburgandy.jpg

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/Speakerpainttestburgandyonblack.jpg


Finally, I just couldn't resist doing a "lunchmoney" version!

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/Speakerpainttestlunchmoneyblue.jpg


After all of that, I really must say that I like the two tone with the burgandy front....I really like the contrast...looks very elegant my wife says.

I'm looking forward to your opinions!

[bmaupin]

Either burgundy looks good to me.

https://home.comcast.net/~bradmop/nines/nines.jpg

[john trials]

The burgundy is also a Lunchmoney trademark (see his SR71 speakers) :D.

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg210/djnelsen1/SR71_Z52.jpg

[Hosejockey61]

Either burgundy looks good to me.

https://home.comcast.net/~bradmop/nines/nines.jpg

Those are some nice looking speakers!! I jut don't want to go glossy due to the reflection issues from the projector.

[Hosejockey61]

The burgundy is also a Lunchmoney trademark (see his SR71 speakers) :D.

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg210/djnelsen1/SR71_Z52.jpg

I really like this look. Of course, all of lunch's projects look great though.

[Hosejockey61]

Well, it's been 17 days since my last post. I was held up by cold weather as I was at the paint stage. Several things to report on and hopefully the experts will chime in on a couple of the issues I had.

First off, I decided since it was my first project I'd go with the cheap HF HVLP spray gun. It's actually not a bad gun at all and easy to use. Not a whole lot of overspray.....kind of surprised me. I decided to go with the outside the garage spray approach for the first coat and then brought them in for the second coat as I thought I had some debris issues.

Before spraying, I used a sharpie (somebody else's idea from here) to darken the edges where the tweeters will go.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1862.jpg

Doing that, I found an area where the tweeter fit too tight. When pulling the tweeter out, a piece of MDF flaked up :mad: Bondo easily repaired it but it set me back just a little.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1863.jpg

I decided to rig up something to hang the speakers that would allow me to get all six sides at once. I took my ladder, a two by four and a hook and hung the speakers. Worked like a charm. I was able to immediately transfer them into the garage and hang them from some hooks placed on my garage door rail (latch disengaged).

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1866.jpg

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1865.jpg

I know I placed some color samples here of what I thought I wanted for color. Then while shopping, I found something else that just looked like it would match the decor of my basement perfectly. I chose to go with a metallic oil rubbed bronze. After spraying it, I have to say that I reeeeeally like it. Most important, the wife loves it! And, at only 8 bucks a quart, it was a no brainer.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1864.jpg

[Hosejockey61]

Now, to the issue. I thought I had some debris blow into the paint causing some bumps and such. Upon closer inspection, It all appears to be paint related. It looks like some small chunks spit out of the gun. I didn't filter the paint prior because I thought it might filter out the metallic flakes.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1872.jpg

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1875.jpg

Any ideas? After sanding it all down with 400 grit sandpaper, I shot the second coat inside. This time I strained the paint and thinned it at about 10%. After looking at the second coat, it looks like some of the same things happened. I am totally open to suggestions here to figure this out. Did I not thin it enough? Did I not have the gun set right? HELP!

This is the setup in the garage. This worked fine for a temp control booth with little overspray.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1880.jpg

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1878.jpg

Here is the first coat to give you an idea of what it looks like. I like it.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1876.jpg

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1873.jpg

[Hosejockey61]

One last thing, should I leave the paint as is or is it advisable to spray a coat or two of polyureathane on it?

[davepellegrene]

One last thing, should I leave the paint as is or is it advisable to spray a coat or two of polyureathane on it?

More then likely the dirt got stirred up from maybe the ground. What air pressure are you spraying at? I try to keep it as low as possible depending on what product I'm using and how thin it is. If your not careful you can stir up dust pretty easy. Wetting the concrete will help with dust and also help keep the paint from sticking to it. Maybe even raising the boxes up.
You won't strain the metal flake out of the paint using strainers and it is important to strain the paint.
My first time I had sags all over the place.


Dave

[Hosejockey61]

I'm not sure it's dirt though. I had the exact same result from spraying out side. I looked very closely at the bits of whatever it is and they truly look like a paint product vs. dirt getting stirred up. Plus, it's my garage....there can't be any dirt in there...:rolleyes:

I only had my regulator set to 40psi which gave a great consistent coat. I shot them about 5 feet off the ground and hung them at 6 feet.

Maybe I need to thin the paint a little more...I didn't have any runs at all. Is a 10% mix ok or should I thin more than that?

Also, what's the input on a poly afterwards?

[davepellegrene]

I'm not sure it's dirt though. I had the exact same result from spraying out side. I looked very closely at the bits of whatever it is and they truly look like a paint product vs. dirt getting stirred up. Plus, it's my garage....there can't be any dirt in there...:rolleyes:

I only had my regulator set to 40psi which gave a great consistent coat. I shot them about 5 feet off the ground and hung them at 6 feet.

Maybe I need to thin the paint a little more...I didn't have any runs at all. Is a 10% mix ok or should I thin more than that?

Also, what's the input on a poly afterwards?

Set up sounds good. It possibly could be junk in your air hose. You could try a small disposable filter at the gun or try a new air hose. A strainer will take anything out of the paint. 40 PSI sounds good. I say thin as little as possible to get it to come out of the gun at a pretty good volume. You should have to move fairly quickly across your speaker box. If you find yourself going slow and moving closer that's usually a sign it's to thick. You should be able to stay back around 10 to 12 inches and have it flow pretty good. I did my Rockits with oil rub bronze on the baffles with a rattle can. I threw a coat of wax on them and they look and are holding up great. As far as a poly over coat the only way I would to that would be with the water base. Oil base will leave a yellow cast to it.
I'm getting ready to spray a stereo cabinet I'm building for a customer. I'm going to spray a coat of poly first, then a coat of latex paint then shoot a couple more coats of the poly on top. I am also going to build a set of bar cabinets for a customer next week. They are going to be sprayed with flat black followed by a couple coats satin poly. With a stainless steel counter top and back splash. I am spraying the poly on these cabinets because one set will be around water and the other will be handled a lot.

http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/public/r71Cz-wP490rIW219n369a54ZvuCHFgN5b7aEb39cav1mbpvgth3N6Zx r38zXLvn_F5PqWi8Xxm64DRIkGngBcn1a9_Xlmpffs_4KHEKvU YEnmRtw26-pRk_oMqVYYRD57u1ajQuckzeWVTlIXVmvlPLJP1Awi_8uVzzAw

Dave

[Hosejockey61]

Wooohoooo! Finally worked through the spraying issues I was having and finally completed the cabinets! I definitely learned a lot in the process.

Now that the cabinets are done it is time to move on to assembly. The first thing I did was install the binding posts. Since I already drilled holes for them all I had to do was gently tap them in. I made sure to make the connection holes uniform from one speaker to the next.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1901.jpg

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1907.jpg

After that was done, it was time to install the crossovers. I cannot stress enough how nice it was to have all the mounting holes pre-drilled. Getting my tiny ratchet screwdriver in there really made it go smoothly.

I also attached the leads to the binding post securely as well.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1897.jpg

After that, I moved onto stuffing the box.

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1899.jpg

[Hosejockey61]

Time to move on to the last step which is connecting and installing the drivers.

After that I was all done and time for some final photos!

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1917.jpg

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1913.jpg

http://i661.photobucket.com/albums/uu331/hosejockey61/Aviatrix%20Project/DSC_1918.jpg

[Hosejockey61]

Thanks again to everyone for their input and help! I really want to thank Curt for responding quickly to my questions as well as for a GREAT design!

As I stated at the very beginning of this thread, I was hoping this project would serve as inspiration for others like me that are a little nervous to take the plunge. This project was extremely satisfying and I can't wait to start the next one.

Now on to the sub....

[Steve Henry]

Excellent work & the detailed write-up will be a thread for many to follow. I really like the paint choice. BTW, what was the source of the impurities in your original paint job?

[Hosejockey61]

BTW, what was the source of the impurities in your original paint job?


Don't tell Dave P. But it was a combination of floating/flying dirt dust and the larger pieces were actually crap from the towel I used to wipe them down before paint.

[davepellegrene]

Don't tell Dave P. But it was a combination of floating/flying dirt dust and the larger pieces were actually crap from the towel I used to wipe them down before paint.

Those did turn out nice. I was going to ask what the problem was. Glad it was a simple fix. That can drive you nut's when you lay the paint on just right and get dirt in the paint. Some could have came from the driver holes. I see a lot of guys tape them up to prevent any thing inside from blowing up into the paint. I always blow the inside out really good.

I use a tack rag lightly across the surface. But the final wipe is with a clean hand. You would be surprised what you'll feel and remove with a few swipes of your hand.

Dave