Porter Cable Drill Press Keyless Chuck?

[mikejennens]

I bought a Porter Cable drill press recently and am wondering if anyone has used a keyless chuck in a drill press. I like the convenience of not having to use a key, but I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with one in a drill press. I use them in my cordless drills and they're great. Also, brand names are a concern. What brand of keyless chuck might be high quality and what might be low quality? Any suggestions are very welcomed!
Thanks,
Mike

[mdocod]

Hi Mike,

There are many good keyless drill chucks for drill presses, but to be honest, most of the really good chucks are going to cost probably nearly as much or more than a porter cable drill press.

What drill do you have, what capacity are you looking for, and what is your price sensitivity?

Often the best route for these things is ebay. There are many import dealers of "reasonable" new chinese stuff, and often good deals on used but more well respected gear.

Regards,
Eric

[ROTECH]

Correct about there being many keyless chucks for a drill press...correct about the cost. Most all bridgeports and lathes will have keyless chucks and those machines can run 10+hp.
Check out some used tool outlets and metal working shops. I am not sure about aftermarket parts sources to upgrade consumer level tools but now I am curious and I will report back here if I find anything.
Do you know the model of your porter cable?

[mikejennens]

HI Eric,
Thanks for the info. I have the 15 inch drill press. The only number on it is the catalog number: PCB660DP. I'm not sure what my price range is, but if it's going to cost more than $100 for a good chuck, I'll probably stick with the one that came with it.
Mike

[bobbarkto]

Check http://www.victornet.com/
They generally have a very good selection and very good pricing.
Their house brand (VME) is decent MIC stuff.
Grizzly and Enco will have same/similar under their own names.

Do you know what the taper is? Probably MT2 x JT33 judging by the head casting (it's the standard MIC head seen on just about every dp these days).



HI Eric,
Thanks for the info. I have the 15 inch drill press. The only number on it is the catalog number: PCB660DP. I'm not sure what my price range is, but if it's going to cost more than $100 for a good chuck, I'll probably stick with the one that came with it.
Mike

[mikejennens]

Check http://www.victornet.com/
They generally have a very good selection and very good pricing.
Their house brand (VME) is decent MIC stuff.
Grizzly and Enco will have same/similar under their own names.

Do you know what the taper is? Probably MT2 x JT33 judging by the head casting (it's the standard MIC head seen on just about every dp these days).

How can I find the taper? If I order one, I don't know what information I'll need.

[bobbarkto]

Check the manual.
Or check service net at the porter cable website. They should have a parts list there.
I'd be very shocked if it isn't MT2 x JT33.

I would order a new arbor, too (#DCA-2M-33J at Victor for example). It's very much easier to remove the whole Morse taper arbor complete with chuck from the drill press head than it is to remove the chuck from the JT33 that goes into the chuck.

Did your dp come with a Morse Taper drift or key? Get one of those too if it didn't (#DRI-2MT).


How can I find the taper? If I order one, I don't know what information I'll need.

[mikejennens]

Check the manual.
Or check service net at the porter cable website. They should have a parts list there.
I'd be very shocked if it isn't MT2 x JT33.

I would order a new arbor, too (#DCA-2M-33J at Victor for example). It's very much easier to remove the whole Morse taper arbor complete with chuck from the drill press head than it is to remove the chuck from the JT33 that goes into the chuck.

Did your dp come with a Morse Taper drift or key? Get one of those too if it didn't (#DRI-2MT).

I haven't put the chuck in the dp yet. I assembled it up to putting in the chuck. Should I still look into the arbor? It came with a "wedge" so I'm wondering if that is a Morse Taper drift or key. Judging by what one looks like when I did a Google search, I'd say that's what it is.

[bobbarkto]

You have the drift (it is wedge shaped). But since you have not installed the arbor you don't need it right now.
I would still get the arbor. Removing the chuck is difficult at best.
Install the new chuck on the new arbor and insert that into the spindle. Very easy to do.

Clean the arbor with mineral spirits to remove all grease and oil.
Put the arbor in a ziplock bag and place in the freezer for a few hours.
Clean the spindle socket and the drill chuck socket to remove all oil and grease.
>>Make sure that the chuck jaws are fully retracted into the body of the chuck.

You will use the drill press lever to press the chuck onto the arbor.
Place a piece of hard wood or mdf on the drill press table.
Adjust the table so that is will just be low enough to clear hte arbor and chuck assembly. You might need to raise the table after the arbor and chuck are inserted into the spidle.

Work quickly from here on.
When the arbor is good and cold remove it and insert the small end into the chuck. Put the arbor into the spindle and lower the spindle until the chuck touches the wood on the drill press table. Apply pressure to seat the chuck and spindle.
Done.




I haven't put the chuck in the dp yet. I assembled it up to putting in the chuck. Should I still look into the arbor? It came with a "wedge" so I'm wondering if that is a Morse Taper drift or key. Judging by what one looks like when I did a Google search, I'd say that's what it is.

[mdocod]

Lots of good advise here, I'll just tag on a bit...

According to the porter cable website, the unit has a Morse taper #2 spindle, and and a Jacobs Taper #3 chuck. There's a good possibility that the chuck you find in the end won't be a JT3, so as others have suggested, just pick up a new arbor adapter to mate the MT2 spindle to whatever the chuck is. Some chucks will include an arbor adapter so you won't need a new one.

Whatever you do get, make sure the minimum clamping size also meets your needs, not just maximum...

You might keep your eyes peeled on ebay for auctions like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Machinists-Albrecht-Super-Quality-German-MT2-Drill-Chuck-Keyless-/251084476749?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a75cd114d

I bought a barely used 6" phase II super spacer (rotary indexing table) on ebay a few years back... MSRP of ~$800, I think I paid $240 shipped. It's a good place to get a good deal on quality equipment.

Regards,
Eric

[Whitneyville1]

A couple of years ago I got tired of my cheesy Chinese made MT3 keyed chuck and chucked it (wadda-wadda!) for a Jacobs MT3 #99 that goes from .5mm to 13mm with roller and ball bearings and is keyed (and doesn't slip) and the arbor is spin-welded on; run-out +/- .005" $76 at Madison Tool and Supply (Marsuco). I wonder WHY I had put up with that POS for all those years other than that the new Jacobs chuck nearly cost a 1/4th of what I paid for the Chinese 15 speed floor-stander. $13 worth of quill shaft bearings took the slop out of it. The old chuck inside an old sweat sock makes a darn good "attitude/altitude adjuster" too.