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Jeff B and Seth Lightning

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  • #31
    Originally posted by jhollander View Post
    Hi Seth, I enjoyed them as well. I've got a few vacuum bagging questions. I can send you a PM if you would prefer?

    Looks like you cut the driver holes before veneering. What did you do to keep the veneer from caving in at the cut outs when vacuum bagging?
    I'm doing 4 veneer projects a year should I opt for the poly bag over the vinyl?
    I've got a nice Busch 9 cfm vacuum pump. Do I need to add an automatic start stop vacuum switch? I plan to do a PVC vacuum receiver.
    Any glue you'd recommend for a beginner? I plan to start with paper backed veneers.
    Hi John,

    I always try to cut the driver openings after veneering, but that rarely happens. The primary reason is because mid bass openings like to be chamfered on the back side. It's always best to do that before the baffle is attached. There are a number of ways to keep the veneer from caving in on the driver openings. One is to insert something in the driver opening supported by the recess (like a piece of masonite or old laminate flooring. Once it's out of the bag, you can cut the veneer around the recess and remove the disc. Let me know if that doesn't make sense.

    The other way is put a platen on top. I prefer this method because it's simpler. The thinner the better to make sure that you have no problem with the platen conforming to the surface.

    Regarding bags, the poly is quite a bit more expensive, but definitely my preferred. I have 20 mil poly. I also have a 20 mil vinyl. Vinyl doesn't stretch as well, nor does it remain as flexible. You can repair both (ask me how I know that) so it's not an issue.

    A 9 cfm pump is a nice sized pump, and bigger than I use. A bigger pump is nice because it pulls air out of the bag quicker. I have a small gast pump for my little bag that doesn't remove air quickly at all. I definitely recommend an auto start/stop switch. The bag will lose air over a period of time, guaranteed. The pump detects the loss in pressure and reacts. Your pump is likely not designed for continuous run. My little gast pump for my small bag is designed that way. My large pump starts and stops.

    I have lots of feelings on adhesives and which ones are right for your application. Feel free to PM me and I can share a few things.

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    • #32
      Please keep it in this thread if possible guys I would like to pick up some tips!
      My Build Thread's
      Carrera's / Finalist TL's / Speedster TMM's / Speedster MTM Center / Overnight Sensation Surrounds

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      • #33
        Hi Seth - are the lightnings ported, or sealed? Also, the roundovers, can you detail how you achieved this a little more. Are there any 1inch router bits for rounding?

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        • #34
          I can answer that, as we discussed in detail how he does things. He uses the table saw and multiple slices/cuts to achieve his curves. The Lightning is ported, IIRC.
          Later,
          Wolf
          "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
          "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
          "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
          "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

          *InDIYana event website*

          Photobucket pages:
          http://photobucket.com/Wolf-Speakers_and_more

          My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
          http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

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          • #35
            There's a link somewhere where Seth showed a sled jig for his router.
            John H

            Synergy Horn, SLS-85, BMR-3L, Mini-TL, BR-2, Titan OB, B452, Udique, Vultus, Latus1, Seriatim, Aperivox,Pencil Tower

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            • #36
              Here's the link http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...r-edge-details

              John H

              Synergy Horn, SLS-85, BMR-3L, Mini-TL, BR-2, Titan OB, B452, Udique, Vultus, Latus1, Seriatim, Aperivox,Pencil Tower

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              • #37
                Sorry, I’m a little late to the party. Ben is correct, they are ported and I have used the table saw many times to create that edge detail. The link John posted with the bamboo strips was my first attempt way back in 2012. While it worked, it was a hassle and a huge time suck. The table saw is way faster. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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                • #38
                  Originally posted by s7horton View Post
                  Sorry, I’m a little late to the party. Ben is correct, they are ported and I have used the table saw many times to create that edge detail. The link John posted with the bamboo strips was my first attempt way back in 2012. While it worked, it was a hassle and a huge time suck. The table saw is way faster. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
                  Hi Seth can you explain your method with the table saw? I was just about to begin work to build a router sled like you did, but would definitely go with the faster, better method!

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                  • #39
                    I’ll try this in text first, if it’s not clear, I might be able to snap a couple pictures.

                    To begin, I draw the curve I want on the top of the speaker at the front right hand corner. This way, when I lay the speaker face down on the table saw, the curve I just drew is closest to the blade. I usually start with the blade set to 45 degrees. I’ll take one pass removing as much of the waste as I can.

                    Next, I’ll tilt the blade to less than 45. Maybe 35 or so? I’ll readjust my fence to make sure I remove enough material and take one more pass.

                    i continue bringing the blade closer to vertical with every pass I make. I adjust the fence distance every pass just like I adjust the blade. I usually make 8-10 cuts and nibble away at the cabinet. Make sure that each pass includes you flipping the cabinet 180 degrees to cut both edges before changing your saw setup.

                    when you are done, you should have a faceted curve that somewhat resembles your curve you drew. Grab a random orbit sander and some 80 grit and go to work smoothing things out.

                    let me know if that isn’t clear.

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                    • #40
                      Originally posted by s7horton View Post
                      I’ll try this in text first, if it’s not clear, I might be able to snap a couple pictures.

                      To begin, I draw the curve I want on the top of the speaker at the front right hand corner. This way, when I lay the speaker face down on the table saw, the curve I just drew is closest to the blade. I usually start with the blade set to 45 degrees. I’ll take one pass removing as much of the waste as I can.

                      Next, I’ll tilt the blade to less than 45. Maybe 35 or so? I’ll readjust my fence to make sure I remove enough material and take one more pass.

                      i continue bringing the blade closer to vertical with every pass I make. I adjust the fence distance every pass just like I adjust the blade. I usually make 8-10 cuts and nibble away at the cabinet. Make sure that each pass includes you flipping the cabinet 180 degrees to cut both edges before changing your saw setup.

                      when you are done, you should have a faceted curve that somewhat resembles your curve you drew. Grab a random orbit sander and some 80 grit and go to work smoothing things out.

                      let me know if that isn’t clear.
                      That makes sense, I drew a corner with a curve and then some angles and I can see how you would make the progression. Thanks for explaining!

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                      • #41
                        S7horton, I, for one, could use a couple pictures. Thanks, D Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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