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  • #31
    I only had a very light coat of wiped on poly, I would recommend some sort of sealer, the trade off I found is with it more porous it was more easily placed and pulled off if I goofed, as well as bubbles easily breathed out; where as it does not stick nearly as good as it would to a smooth sealed surface but would undoubtedly be harder to work with. Your call I guess. I would do two coats of gloss poly sanded if I was to do it again.

    Since it sat now for a little while, the vinyl has shrunk and shows a little wood at the very edges, and has a couple small ripples at the complex corners. I think the shrinkage and ripples would be minimized greatly if the surface was sealed better for better adhesion.

    So I guess make sure you allow for shrinkage. If I had wrapped the baffles before I glued them on it would have been perfect because I could have wrapped around the back of the panel and the shrinkage would not have shown and pulled actually even tighter. I will try that on the next baffle. Any little spec of sawdust on the surface really telegraphs too, which I found the hard way and had to peel it off the first time to fix. Heat seems to be the magic trick for this stuff both for adhesive activation and nice compound stretchability.

    Let me know how it turns out and what you think of it. Mine isn't perfect but the flaws are my fault and I'm still really happy with it.

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    • #32
      Originally posted by Kevin K. View Post
      Appreciate your insight and explanations. I'm thinking a 60 tooth ripping blade might cut it pretty smooth and may be less likely to try to jerk it during the cuts. After MWAF, I might play around with this some. Thanks Dynamo.
      I use a 40 tooth blade on my miter and table saws. With PVC, the slower the feed, the smoother the cut (I guess that's true with wood etc. as well)

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