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  • #46
    Originally posted by crossrh View Post
    Thanks, Tom.

    ​I've used those feet in the past, but they seem to "walk" on me (no pun intended, but I wished I had.) That leaves a glue smear on the bottom.

    ​When I get the rest of the parts in, I'll let you know how the xover fits in the bottom of the cabinet.

    ​I was going to use a MiniDSP for the crossover like I did for my last project, but that makes the speakers much less mobile, as I would have to lug around the MiniDSP and the two amps along with the two speakers. The passive xover won't be as flexible as a MiniDSP, but it will be more practicable.
    Do you mean that the rubber feet didn't stay stuck to the same spot on the cabinet? I guess I lucked out and got good ones then.

    By the way, you probably shouldn't try to route out the PR hole until after assembly -- I forgot -- I actually gouged into the sides of the cabinet walls when I cut out the holes for my set:





    There is precious little material there on the sides of the cabinet.

    TomZ
    *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
    *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF *Cello's Speaker Project Page

    *Building the "Micro-B 2.1 Plate Amplifier -- Part 1 * Part 2 * Part 3 * Part 4 * * Part 5 'Review' * -- Assembly Instructions PDF

    Comment


    • #47
      Too late!

      ​I used a router with a Jasper Jig for all the holes. I spread out the other pieces of the cabinet around the pieces that I was routering to provide support for the Jasper Jig. (see pic)

      I cut the tweeter holes 1 3/4" instead of 2" and used a drum sander bit in my drill press to widen the holes. Now the tweeters press-fit into their holes without needing gasket tape. I'll add a little construction adhesive to the sides of the hole when I'm ready to install them.

      I dropped the PR cutout to 3 5/8" and lightly rounded over the outside edge. They fit nicely.

      ​Some of the caps are backordered. Hope I don't have to wait too long.

      ​Thanks for the idea for this little speaker, Tom. I don't have the know-how to configure one myself. For one of my other builds I used John Krutke's designs on Zaphaudio.com, the SR-71, and it came out really well.
      Last edited by crossrh; 03-14-2017, 10:28 PM.

      Comment


      • #48
        Originally posted by crossrh View Post
        Too late!

        ​I used a router with a Jasper Jig for all the holes. I spread out the other pieces of the cabinet around the pieces that I was routering to provide support for the Jasper Jig. (see pic)

        I cut the tweeter holes 1 3/4" instead of 2" and used a drum sander bit in my drill press to widen the holes. Now the tweeters press-fit into their holes without needing gasket tape. I'll add a little construction adhesive to the sides of the hole when I'm ready to install them.

        I dropped the PR cutout to 3 5/8" and lightly rounded over the outside edge. They fit nicely.

        ​Some of the caps are backordered. Hope I don't have to wait too long.

        ​Thanks for the idea for this little speaker, Tom. I don't have the know-how to configure one myself. For one of my other builds I used John Krutke's designs on Zaphaudio.com, the SR-71, and it came out really well.
        One of the caps is not due available until June IIRC. I ordered the Precision Audio Caps 2.2uF Part # 027-216 $2.79 5.1uF Part # 027-232 $4.48. They are more expensive but I will have them in a few days and it is worth the extra few $'s to me. I am thinking of painting them satin white rather than black. I think the small black drivers agains the small white cabinet will look pretty cool.

        Scott

        Comment


        • #49
          Originally posted by crossrh View Post
          Too late!

          ​I used a router with a Jasper Jig for all the holes. I spread out the other pieces of the cabinet around the pieces that I was routering to provide support for the Jasper Jig. (see pic)

          I cut the tweeter holes 1 3/4" instead of 2" and used a drum sander bit in my drill press to widen the holes. Now the tweeters press-fit into their holes without needing gasket tape. I'll add a little construction adhesive to the sides of the hole when I'm ready to install them.

          I dropped the PR cutout to 3 5/8" and lightly rounded over the outside edge. They fit nicely.

          ​Some of the caps are backordered. Hope I don't have to wait too long.

          ​Thanks for the idea for this little speaker, Tom. I don't have the know-how to configure one myself. For one of my other builds I used John Krutke's designs on Zaphaudio.com, the SR-71, and it came out really well.
          I like how you braced the parts so you could router them out, good idea. I went back and forth with what size hole to cut for the tweeter. I wish they had made it a standard size for a press-fit, wouldn't have made any difference with it's functionality as an auto tweeter really, but I guess they were just thinking 'auto' when they designed it. For the Bantam MTM's I used 4 wraps of electrical tape and it fit perfectly in the larger hole.

          Your idea to sand the opening larger is a good one "if" you're capable of being careful enough. I actually was afraid that I'd sand too far so I didn't want to risk it.
          Originally posted by MLS View Post

          One of the caps is not due available until June IIRC. I ordered the Precision Audio Caps 2.2uF Part # 027-216 $2.79 5.1uF Part # 027-232 $4.48. They are more expensive but I will have them in a few days and it is worth the extra few $'s to me. I am thinking of painting them satin white rather than black. I think the small black drivers agains the small white cabinet will look pretty cool.

          Scott
          Different flavors, nice! Looking forward to seeing them.

          TomZ
          *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
          *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF *Cello's Speaker Project Page

          *Building the "Micro-B 2.1 Plate Amplifier -- Part 1 * Part 2 * Part 3 * Part 4 * * Part 5 'Review' * -- Assembly Instructions PDF

          Comment


          • #50
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            Dang. Thanks for the heads-up, Scott. I didn't notice the dates when I placed my order. I'll call tomorrow and plead ignorance. Hopefully they won't charge me shipping for four caps.

            ​Satin white does sound nice. The contrast against the speakers will look good.

            ​I have some leftover cherry veneer I'm going to use. Painting would be so much easier. It took me months to get the Waterlox gloss finish the way I wanted it, but it was worth it.
            Last edited by crossrh; 03-20-2017, 02:52 PM. Reason: Added a pic of the Cherry veneer with Waterlox High Gloss.

            Comment


            • #51
              Tom really cool little build, I somehow missed these when you posted them initially. Check out these feet if you haven't found a solution yet, they solved the same issue you mentioned with my Microfarads as well as another small speaker I built with PR's. They come in various sizes, these are the 1/2": 1/2" Dia Sorbothane No-Stain Hemisphere Bumper Non-skid Feet 50 Duro with Adhesive - 16 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BMYUBII..._vZO5yb2R9HZ63
              --
              Javad Shadzi
              Bay Area, CA

              2-Channel Stereo system in the works with Adcom components and 4-way towers

              Comment


              • #52
                Finished! (finally)

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                ​I used General Finishes' Arm-R-Seal Oil & Urethane Topcoat on the maple veneer this time. I tried using a sponge brush, an applicator pad with a stocking over it, but ended up using a $15 High Volume Low Pressure spray gun from Harbor Freight. It took about 10 coats, but I got consistently good results.

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                ​The crossover worked out well. The resistors barely fit between the binding posts, which I had to cut down in length, and the woofer.

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                ​They really are small, but put out a surprisingly large amount of sound. I haven't pushed them past 85dB of Steely Dan while I break them in.

                ​I've never used an AMT or any of those varieties in the past, but I will from now on. I really like the "air" they put on the top end.

                ​Thanks for the project, Tom. I'm really happy with them.

                Rick

                Comment


                • #53
                  Originally posted by JavadS View Post
                  Tom really cool little build, I somehow missed these when you posted them initially. Check out these feet if you haven't found a solution yet, they solved the same issue you mentioned with my Microfarads as well as another small speaker I built with PR's. They come in various sizes, these are the 1/2": 1/2" Dia Sorbothane No-Stain Hemisphere Bumper Non-skid Feet 50 Duro with Adhesive - 16 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BMYUBII..._vZO5yb2R9HZ63
                  Thanks Javad,

                  Those are nice feet. The feet I used stay put, they're a bit smaller, like 1/4" or a bit bigger. When I drove to Indiana to take them to DIY one of them 'moved' or slid a bit in the hot car, maybe it was being pushed or something how I packed them in the box. They keep the box in place, though... they will dance all over if not.

                  Originally posted by crossrh View Post
                  Finished! (finally)

                  [ATTACH=CONFIG]n1330526[/ATTACH]

                  ​I used General Finishes' Arm-R-Seal Oil & Urethane Topcoat on the maple veneer this time. I tried using a sponge brush, an applicator pad with a stocking over it, but ended up using a $15 High Volume Low Pressure spray gun from Harbor Freight. It took about 10 coats, but I got consistently good results.

                  [ATTACH=CONFIG]n1330527[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]n1330528[/ATTACH]

                  ​The crossover worked out well. The resistors barely fit between the binding posts, which I had to cut down in length, and the woofer.

                  [ATTACH=CONFIG]n1330529[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]n1330530[/ATTACH]

                  ​They really are small, but put out a surprisingly large amount of sound. I haven't pushed them past 85dB of Steely Dan while I break them in.

                  ​I've never used an AMT or any of those varieties in the past, but I will from now on. I really like the "air" they put on the top end.

                  ​Thanks for the project, Tom. I'm really happy with them.

                  Rick
                  Looks great Rick!

                  It's nice to see some of my "Babies" out there finally. I was wondering if anyone ever would build anything I've designed. I was hoping someone would eventually build the DN-10's - I think they do real well also... but I'm jazzed to see these in someone's listening room. They came out real nice, the finish is excellent. Nice job shoving the Xover in there too!

                  Cool space by the way, I'm glad you like them. They 'sparkle' pretty good with the high stuff thanks to the AMT driver, I agree.

                  Thanks for posting.

                  TomZ

                  *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
                  *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF *Cello's Speaker Project Page

                  *Building the "Micro-B 2.1 Plate Amplifier -- Part 1 * Part 2 * Part 3 * Part 4 * * Part 5 'Review' * -- Assembly Instructions PDF

                  Comment


                  • #54
                    Tom:
                    ​Did you consider a Zobel for the woofer? The impedance rises to about 20 ohms at the crossover freq.
                    ​And if you did, would that have any other effects on the crossover?

                    ​Rick

                    Comment


                    • #55
                      Rick,
                      Honestly, I wasn't too concerned about it. Once I got it sounding right to my ears and I'm sure the impedance is okay, I usually try to quit while I'm ahead.
                      This is an extremely small cabinet to begin with and one of the reasons I wanted to use a PR and mount the crossover to it is to maintain as much interior volume as I possibly could, even the loss of a few cubic inches makes a difference with something this small believe it or not.

                      TomZ
                      *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
                      *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF *Cello's Speaker Project Page

                      *Building the "Micro-B 2.1 Plate Amplifier -- Part 1 * Part 2 * Part 3 * Part 4 * * Part 5 'Review' * -- Assembly Instructions PDF

                      Comment

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