Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

The Standards - Dayton RS28A and Peerless HDS Exclusive 830883

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #31
    Great looking speaker, and I have to agree with the sentiments above that the HDS Exclusive is a fantastic woofer, one of the best at any price IMO. I really wish the 8" 830884 was not discontinued.
    Don't waste your money on a new set of speakers, You get more mileage from a cheap pair of sneakers. Next phase, new wave, dance craze, anyways it's still rock and roll to me!

    Comment


    • #32
      Originally posted by dcibel View Post
      Great looking speaker, and I have to agree with the sentiments above that the HDS Exclusive is a fantastic woofer, one of the best at any price IMO. I really wish the 8" 830884 was not discontinued.
      Yes- that was a marvelous woofer. Curt's Mavericks made them plumb the depths with aplomb.
      Wolf
      "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
      "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
      "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
      "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

      *InDIYana event website*

      Photobucket pages:
      http://photobucket.com/Wolf-Speakers_and_more

      My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
      http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

      Comment


      • #33
        Originally posted by Geoff Millar View Post
        Beautiful speakers indeed

        I'm curious as to how the Peerless compare with the Dayton RS180P drivers, they are a similar price in Australia. I've used the Daytons and love them

        The silver frame certainly looks the part

        Cheers

        Geoff
        I haven't heard the paper version of any of the RS woofers, but have heard quite a few sets using the aluminum version. It's hard to compare since I don't have a 2-way using any on hand but I think I like the HDS driver better. However, they are almost twice the price of the RS180 (any model) so you could build an MTM or TMM for almost the same price with the RS180.
        -Kerry

        www.pursuitofperfectsound.com

        Comment


        • #34
          I'd love a quick rundown on the finishing process, that veneer dye job looks amazing.

          रेतुर्न तो थे स्रोत
          return to the source
          leviathan system thread
          deadhorse thread
          shockwave build thread

          instagram :: greywarden_13

          in war, victory . . . in peace, vigilance . . . in death, sacrifice.

          Comment


          • #35
            Originally posted by Navy Guy View Post

            I haven't heard the paper version of any of the RS woofers, but have heard quite a few sets using the aluminum version. It's hard to compare since I don't have a 2-way using any on hand but I think I like the HDS driver better. However, they are almost twice the price of the RS180 (any model) so you could build an MTM or TMM for almost the same price with the RS180.
            You may want to check the price of the HDS exclusive at the competitors. In Canada the difference in cost between the drivers is only $10. In fact, PE appears to be the most expensive place to buy a 830883 as far as I can tell.
            Don't waste your money on a new set of speakers, You get more mileage from a cheap pair of sneakers. Next phase, new wave, dance craze, anyways it's still rock and roll to me!

            Comment


            • #36
              Thanks for the observations re the RS180P - due to the decline of the A$ compared to the US$, the RS180s are now about $95 each, compared with the Peerless at about A$106. When I built my speakers two years ago they were $67 each!

              While I won't be building anything high end for some time, it is interesting to hear peoples' views on the value/quality of various drivers.

              Unfortunately with the A$ continuing to slide it means that Dayton drivers will get more expensive over the next year, while Peerless drivers will not increase in price at the same rate.

              Having said that, DIY designs using Dayton drivers will still be great value as their ready made counterparts are also increasing in price.

              Geoff

              Comment


              • #37
                Originally posted by greywarden View Post
                I'd love a quick rundown on the finishing process, that veneer dye job looks amazing.

                It's fairly straight forward. I used Heatlock to apply the paper-backed veneer using the iron on method, then sanded lightly with 320 to smooth the surface. I used the concentrated TransTint black dye and mixed it roughly 50/50 with alcohol/water. I had some scrap pieces I was using to test the color and just kept adding dye to my water/alcohol until I got both the chatoyant parts and regular grain to a darkened color. The chatoyant parts will soak up dye faster, so you are basically adding until the regular parts are dark, but not so dark as to blend with the striping. I applied it with a cut up old white t-shirt in circular motions until it looked about as dark as I wanted.

                It will look pretty weird at this point and the color will look almost like black ink and you'll think it's going to look terrible. I let that dry overnight and then went over any parts where the color didn't look even with a light coat to blend in everything. I was using brush-on, oil based poly for the finish, but if you immediately go with the brush, you'll start pulling up the dye. I bought a can of oil based spray poly and hit the cabinet with a coat of that first. To really get the figure to pop, you'll need a thick layer of poly and the glossier you can make it the better. When I got to about my third coat and it was still wet, you could really see what it was going to look like.

                If you have equipment to spray, a good thick surface of lacquer or poly that gets wet sanded and buffed would make it look it's best. I had some issues with some veneer bubbling and knew that if I tried to do that on these, I would most likely sand through the finish in a couple spots. If you do that on dyed wood like this, you will get light spots on those areas you sand through, so just went with light sanding of 320 between coats and did about 6 coats of poly on each cabinet. I've found 400 grit will actually give you a smoother finish, but the poly runs much easier on pieces that aren't horizontal. Because of the round overs I had to do 3 sides at once, so I stuck with the 320.
                -Kerry

                www.pursuitofperfectsound.com

                Comment


                • #38
                  Fantastic looking!!

                  Comment


                  • #39
                    Those are simply beautiful!

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      Great job !

                      Comment

                      Working...
                      X