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The Standards - Dayton RS28A and Peerless HDS Exclusive 830883

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  • The Standards - Dayton RS28A and Peerless HDS Exclusive 830883

    I just posted my first Design Team project: http://projectgallery.parts-express....the-standards/ I'll have more info soon, including final measurements on and off axis. Was having problems with my microphone on the final measurements that I have to get sorted out 😕
    Last edited by Navy Guy; 12-17-2016, 06:56 PM.

  • JeanM
    replied
    Great job !

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  • anotherforumname
    replied
    Those are simply beautiful!

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  • kevintomb
    replied
    Fantastic looking!!

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  • Navy Guy
    replied
    Originally posted by greywarden View Post
    I'd love a quick rundown on the finishing process, that veneer dye job looks amazing.

    It's fairly straight forward. I used Heatlock to apply the paper-backed veneer using the iron on method, then sanded lightly with 320 to smooth the surface. I used the concentrated TransTint black dye and mixed it roughly 50/50 with alcohol/water. I had some scrap pieces I was using to test the color and just kept adding dye to my water/alcohol until I got both the chatoyant parts and regular grain to a darkened color. The chatoyant parts will soak up dye faster, so you are basically adding until the regular parts are dark, but not so dark as to blend with the striping. I applied it with a cut up old white t-shirt in circular motions until it looked about as dark as I wanted.

    It will look pretty weird at this point and the color will look almost like black ink and you'll think it's going to look terrible. I let that dry overnight and then went over any parts where the color didn't look even with a light coat to blend in everything. I was using brush-on, oil based poly for the finish, but if you immediately go with the brush, you'll start pulling up the dye. I bought a can of oil based spray poly and hit the cabinet with a coat of that first. To really get the figure to pop, you'll need a thick layer of poly and the glossier you can make it the better. When I got to about my third coat and it was still wet, you could really see what it was going to look like.

    If you have equipment to spray, a good thick surface of lacquer or poly that gets wet sanded and buffed would make it look it's best. I had some issues with some veneer bubbling and knew that if I tried to do that on these, I would most likely sand through the finish in a couple spots. If you do that on dyed wood like this, you will get light spots on those areas you sand through, so just went with light sanding of 320 between coats and did about 6 coats of poly on each cabinet. I've found 400 grit will actually give you a smoother finish, but the poly runs much easier on pieces that aren't horizontal. Because of the round overs I had to do 3 sides at once, so I stuck with the 320.

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  • Geoff Millar
    replied
    Thanks for the observations re the RS180P - due to the decline of the A$ compared to the US$, the RS180s are now about $95 each, compared with the Peerless at about A$106. When I built my speakers two years ago they were $67 each!

    While I won't be building anything high end for some time, it is interesting to hear peoples' views on the value/quality of various drivers.

    Unfortunately with the A$ continuing to slide it means that Dayton drivers will get more expensive over the next year, while Peerless drivers will not increase in price at the same rate.

    Having said that, DIY designs using Dayton drivers will still be great value as their ready made counterparts are also increasing in price.

    Geoff

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  • dcibel
    replied
    Originally posted by Navy Guy View Post

    I haven't heard the paper version of any of the RS woofers, but have heard quite a few sets using the aluminum version. It's hard to compare since I don't have a 2-way using any on hand but I think I like the HDS driver better. However, they are almost twice the price of the RS180 (any model) so you could build an MTM or TMM for almost the same price with the RS180.
    You may want to check the price of the HDS exclusive at the competitors. In Canada the difference in cost between the drivers is only $10. In fact, PE appears to be the most expensive place to buy a 830883 as far as I can tell.

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  • greywarden
    replied
    I'd love a quick rundown on the finishing process, that veneer dye job looks amazing.

    Leave a comment:


  • Navy Guy
    replied
    Originally posted by Geoff Millar View Post
    Beautiful speakers indeed

    I'm curious as to how the Peerless compare with the Dayton RS180P drivers, they are a similar price in Australia. I've used the Daytons and love them

    The silver frame certainly looks the part

    Cheers

    Geoff
    I haven't heard the paper version of any of the RS woofers, but have heard quite a few sets using the aluminum version. It's hard to compare since I don't have a 2-way using any on hand but I think I like the HDS driver better. However, they are almost twice the price of the RS180 (any model) so you could build an MTM or TMM for almost the same price with the RS180.

    Leave a comment:


  • Wolf
    replied
    Originally posted by dcibel View Post
    Great looking speaker, and I have to agree with the sentiments above that the HDS Exclusive is a fantastic woofer, one of the best at any price IMO. I really wish the 8" 830884 was not discontinued.
    Yes- that was a marvelous woofer. Curt's Mavericks made them plumb the depths with aplomb.
    Wolf

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  • dcibel
    replied
    Great looking speaker, and I have to agree with the sentiments above that the HDS Exclusive is a fantastic woofer, one of the best at any price IMO. I really wish the 8" 830884 was not discontinued.

    Leave a comment:


  • Navy Guy
    replied
    Ani, I bought some aluminum bar stock, I think it was 1/4" thick by 1.5"x12", and some aluminum sign standoffs from eBay. I used tungsten drill bits, my chop saw, and jigsaw with metal cutting blade. Sanded with heavy grit paper on the cut edges and 320 for the finish.

    Leave a comment:


  • ani_101
    replied
    Hey Kerry, great design. Any details on the feet?

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  • JimHRB
    replied
    Originally posted by Navy Guy View Post
    I think that was the whole point of PE requiring that we use the knock down cabinets for our first build.

    Didn't realize that was a requirement. In any case I think this is the first design I've seen using these tower cabinets. Great effort.

    Leave a comment:


  • Navy Guy
    replied
    Originally posted by JimHRB
    Nice that you can use the PE knock-down cabinet. Almost makes this a kit for someone that doesn't have the tools or skills to make their own cabinet.
    I think that was the whole point of PE requiring that we use the knock down cabinets for our first build.

    Leave a comment:

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