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Infinity IL30 Rebuild

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  • Infinity IL30 Rebuild

    Hello All, Not even done building my Heliums and I'm starting another project. Looking for some guidance on a rebuild. I just sold the drivers out of some Infinity IL30 towers. I like the look of the cabinets and I want to use these as my garage speakers. Obviously I want to upgrade components from what Infinity did from the factory. Any recommendations for a 2-way TW combo that would make good use of these cabinets or an existing design that would fit in them? I'm comfortable soldering up a new XO and modifying the cabinets if needed to accommodate the new components. If anyone thinks this is a futile project, let me know. If you think they're worth salvaging the cabinet specs are as follows: - cabinets are 5/8" particle board with 1" thick MDF baffles - exterior dimensions are 36"H x 8-1/2"W x 10"D - as best I can measure the internal volume , minus bracing, works out to 1.07 cf or 30.3 liters - the existing woofer was a 6-1/2". I don't have the exact cutout dia's on hand right now. - the existing port i.d. Is 2-5/8" and is about at the middle of the rear of the cabinet. I'm open to changing port location and size if needed. - my budget is about $200 for drivers and XO components. - photos of cabs attached Im thinking about some Dayton DS175-8 as a starting point but don't know what tweeters to pair or what the XO needs to be. This is where I need everyone's help. Thanks in advance!
    Architect by trade, amateur woodworker, shade-tree mechanic, jack of all trades, master of none, and proud of it!

    Like my Dad always says, "I know enough to be dangerous!"

  • #2
    That woofer models OK in there, w/a 7" long port. Almost any tweeter (that can cross near 2k) should be fine. Easiest would be to find a dia. that drops into the existing hole. If only PE had their "Tweeter Selection Guide" up and running!

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    • #3
      Are you wanting to design your own XO with speakers you pick out? Or are you just looking for a good designed kit to put in the cabinets?
      If the first option - Chris R. has already posted and is great at assisting with XO design on the forum. As are others too, once you decide on the speakers.
      If the latter - I would look at the Amiga or Tango kits PE offers, both would work well in your cabinet and should fit the cutouts (or only require a small amount of modification to fit). Only real change would be to adjust the port tubes to fit your cabinet, i.e. longer due the increased diameter.

      Good luck, those are certainly some nice cabinets. I would re-purpose them too.
      Paul

      The "SB's" build page
      http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...-4-(pic-heavy)

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      • #4
        One of the Peerless (Tymphany) SDS woofers would work well too, like this one.

        (http://www.parts-express.com/peerles...aker--264-1146)

        For a tweeter, I would be thinking about something like this if it fits your opening http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-...4-ohm--275-051 - unfortunately it is out of stock at the moment. The waveguide faceplate will help reduce the effects of surface mounting the tweeter and the recessed baffle relative to the rest of the cabinet. One of the Peerless H26 tweeters would also work - and those are in stock.
        Keep an open mind, but don't let your brain fall out.

        Argon | Helium | Lithium | LithMTM | Hafnium
        Mercury | Matrix | Shrubbery

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        • #5
          those look like nice cabs. I would save up some money and use some nicer drivers. when you get ready to build the xover let me know and I will help you out with xover parts at a very discounted price.
          craigk

          " Voicing is often the term used for band aids to cover for initial design/planning errors " - Pallas

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          • #6
            I like the Scanspeak Classic P17W00 6.5" woofer. This is a Vifa driver now manufactured by Scanspeak.

            In a Extended Bass alignment cab of 30L with q 2 5/8" x 6 3/4" port, the Scanspeak will have an F3 of 38 Hz and will hit 104 dB SPL @ 40 W (before BSC). The FR graph looks like crossing at 2K will work fine ($77 each plus shipping). It needs a 5.75" cutout.

            Scanspeak Classic 6.5in.jpg

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            • #7
              Thanks everyone for all the info so far. Bullittstang, to answer a few questions, yes, I would like to select my own drivers and build the XO's to suit them. Also, Scott, I plan on making a new baffle insert to fit the recessed area of the cabs and bring the drivers proud of the lip of the recess. So this only limits me to an overall dia. for the woofers really. Placement doesn't have to fit the existing cutouts exactly, since I will have a new baffle to do with as I please.

              Chris, when you say the DS175 models "OK", would you have a different suggestion? The Scanspeaks that Mike suggested are a bit more than I'd like to spend right now. Thanks for the suggestion though, Mike.

              After a bit more looking, I think I would like to use the Dayton DSA175-8 due to their slightly better FR, and the look of the aluminum cones. I'd like to pair with the Dayton DC28F-8. Does anyone have any experience with the DC28? Would it get the job done while I'm moving around the space working on various projects?

              Scott, the Peerless stuff looks pretty good, but for some reason I have my heart set on the Dayton woofer right now. Would it be a horrible idea to pair the Dayton with an H26? Would the waveguide help in my garage listening environment?

              Craigk, I'll be happy to take you up on the XO parts deal once I settle on a XO design.
              Architect by trade, amateur woodworker, shade-tree mechanic, jack of all trades, master of none, and proud of it!

              Like my Dad always says, "I know enough to be dangerous!"

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              • #8
                Originally posted by jwjarch View Post
                The Scanspeaks that Mike suggested are a bit more than I'd like to spend right now. Thanks for the suggestion though, Mike.

                After a bit more looking, I think I would like to use the Dayton DSA175-8 due to their slightly better FR, and the look of the aluminum cones
                I know, garage speakers. The Scanspeak just modeled so well in your enclosure I couldn't resist.

                The DSA175 is really made for a small box ~6 L, but to my surprise will work well in 30 l (listen to Chris). It's an extended base alignment model, hence the dip circa 80 Hz. The series resistance in the XO helps flatten that (1.0 ohm shown in model). It'll take 45 w to breach xmax and seems like it' wouldn't bottom out all the way up 70 w. Your port may be a little short. If needed, a couple of extra inches would help flatten the low end peak (perhaps 2.5" PVC elbow with expoxy to secure it over the end of the existing port).

                DSA175.jpg

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                • #9
                  The ds"A"175-8 ALSO models well in there, w/a 7-1/2" long port. Almost any tweeter (that can cross near 2k) should be fine. The DC28 is not a bad performer and should work well w/the woofer, crossing near 2kHz.

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                  • #10
                    So back to the drawing board on these. I took some more critical dimensions and realized the Dayton 175's won't fit.

                    Scott, I think I'm in the market for a few of those Peerless SDS (160F25PR01-08) woofers. I was also looking at the Peerless D19TD-05 tweeters to pair with the SDS. Where would you suggest crossing over? 3,500Hz maybe?
                    Architect by trade, amateur woodworker, shade-tree mechanic, jack of all trades, master of none, and proud of it!

                    Like my Dad always says, "I know enough to be dangerous!"

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                    • #11
                      Thinking about another direction on this re-build yet again. PE has the HiVi M5N's on sale for $18 a piece. I'm thinking a 2.5 way TMM with (2) M5N's per box would be a good way to go. I don't need earth shaking base or super high SPL. I modeled in Unibox and it seems workable. Trying to plug into PCD but that spreadsheet is a little beyond me. Can someone give me an idea of a XO design using DC28F-8 tweeters crossed over at 3,500 Hz?
                      Architect by trade, amateur woodworker, shade-tree mechanic, jack of all trades, master of none, and proud of it!

                      Like my Dad always says, "I know enough to be dangerous!"

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                      • #12
                        You can do a lot better than the DC28F for the same money, one option ND28, that can cross as low as 2K. I don't think it is recommended to cross the M5n at 3500hz.
                        ​Checkout the Swope design by Paul C. It uses the M5 and the ND28 in a MTM layout with full documentation and X-over
                        design.
                        Last edited by Squidspeak; 04-23-2017, 07:20 PM. Reason: Litebulb

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                        • #13
                          There it is! Thanks Squidspeak! I knew there must be a design for the M5n's out there somewhere. I'd been to Paul's page a bunch of times and somehow I missed it. I guess my only question now is, does the extra 0.2 ft3 change the XO design at all? Doesn't seem to matter for the response I have going in Unibox but I bet that doesn't tell the whole story. I'm sure I could take up volume if needed but I I wonder if the extra volume would benefit the bass response. Thoughts?
                          Architect by trade, amateur woodworker, shade-tree mechanic, jack of all trades, master of none, and proud of it!

                          Like my Dad always says, "I know enough to be dangerous!"

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                          • #14
                            A 20% change in volume will most likely not matter one bit. I'd even keep the same port tube dims.

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                            • #15
                              Thanks Chris. The Swopes use a slotted port so I'll go with what Unibox is telling me for a round port that works with my cabs. Right now I have them tuned to 44hz with an F3 of 42, with a 3" dia. port at 9-1/4" long.

                              Architect by trade, amateur woodworker, shade-tree mechanic, jack of all trades, master of none, and proud of it!

                              Like my Dad always says, "I know enough to be dangerous!"

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