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Project #2: The 'Tenacious Bass 6' and 'Tenacious Bass 8' Subwoofers

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  • #46
    Dave,

    That came out really nice looking with the paint and exposed ply ends. You know, I like the look of the plywood layers more each time I see someone do it.

    Looking forward to hearing your impressions on the combo with the Knobsound 2.1 amp. One thing in your favor in case the subs crossover point doesn't go as low as we were hoping... it may not end up being as noticeable since the active driver is facing down.

    Nice! Thanks for posting your progress.

    TomZ
    *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
    *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF *Cello's Speaker Project Page

    *Building the "Micro-B 2.1 Plate Amplifier -- Part 1 * Part 2 * Part 3 * Part 4 * * Part 5 'Review' * -- Assembly Instructions PDF

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    • #47
      Running on the Nobsound 2.1 with 100 watts claimed, this sub is just loafing along. Very deep output, nice sound. Well worth building. Somewhat underutilized in this application. No idea of the sub channel crossover point or controlability, but the sub certainly is not putting out voices or other high frequency noise.

      This box and PR go much lower than the same TB woofer in a small vented box.

      Thanks Tom.

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      • #48
        Hi, I love the slot port design of the Tenacious Bass 6 and I was wondering if you ran any design numbers to adapt it for the Tang Band W5-1138SMF?
        I have not seen any designs published with using slot ports for the smaller driver and I happen to have one on the shelf.
        The ported ones seem to all have reviews that state the round ports are harder to incorporate in the box and they still have chuffing issues.
        Thanks,
        Tim

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        • #49
          Originally posted by djg View Post
          Running on the Nobsound 2.1 with 100 watts claimed, this sub is just loafing along. Very deep output, nice sound. Well worth building. Somewhat underutilized in this application. No idea of the sub channel crossover point or controlability, but the sub certainly is not putting out voices or other high frequency noise.

          This box and PR go much lower than the same TB woofer in a small vented box.

          Thanks Tom.
          The Nobsound's claim of 100 W on the sub channel can only be achieved with a 2 ohm driver. The 4 ohm TB sub will see ~65 W rms (clean, < 1% THD) when using a 24 V PS; 40 W rms with a 19 V PS.

          The maximum, theoretical, clean W rms for BTL (or PBTL) mode DC powered amps is solely determined by the PS voltage and the driver impedance. The 100 W rms rating of the Nobsound sub channel is the thermal dissipation limitation of the TPA3116 chip (in PBTL mode). For example, at 24 V with a 2 ohm sub, ~130 W rms is possible. But that exceeds the thermal dissipation capacity of the chip (but very possible given certain conditions).

          A good ROT for BTL DC amps is: Clean W rms = (Vdc-1)2 / (2*Rdriver).

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          • #50
            So, the PE 24V 5A brick is "better" than my 19V 7.5A? The 19V has more watts. Now tell me how inflated these ratings are. Is there a power supply better than laptop bricks? I mean, one generally available assembled or kit?

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            • #51
              Originally posted by djg View Post
              So, the PE 24V 5A brick is "better" than my 19V 7.5A? The 19V has more watts. Now tell me how inflated these ratings are. Is there a power supply better than laptop bricks? I mean, one generally available assembled or kit?
              Yes, the brick will give you more watts into the speakers. In my last post, the last line defines the theoretical maximum power output. The two determining factors are PS V and speaker impedance. A 24 V PS will give you 65% more W rms into the speakers given the PS has sufficient amps to support peak demand. You need to enough amps to get the max power or the Switch mode PS will go into protect mode during peaks and recover within seconds. The 19 V PS will always have less maximum output than a 24 V PS that has sufficient amps, regardless of the 19 V PS amp rating.

              A 24 V, 5 amp brick should be good with a 4 ohm sub and 8 ohm L-R speakers.

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              • #52
                Thank you.

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