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Car Audio Sub Install Using a Passive Radiator

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  • Car Audio Sub Install Using a Passive Radiator

    Hey guys,

    I decided to add some low end to my stereo after having improved the front stage in the car with the PS65 drivers and adding a couple tweeters to the A pillars. I used an RSS265HO-44 and RSS265-PR in just shy of 1 cubic foot. The passive has 150 grams added for a measured tuning frequency of 35 Hz. I wanted to take up as little trunk space as possible so I built the back of the box to form to the angle of the seats and be flat on the front. It also needed to be clean so I built a false baffle that extended the width of the trunk. This design ended up using only about 10" of floor space in the trunk and was very easy to throw together. It went from bare MDF to cut, assembled, carpeted and ready for install within 3 hours.

    The idea was to see what kind of install was possible using a stock radio (very stock in my case, no bells or whistles whatsoever) and I think the end result is very good. I used an RE Audio SA 1500.1 wired to 2 ohms. These amps are VERY cool. Small, quite a few features and very efficient. I also decided to use the Axxess AX-ADCT2 line converter since it has a signal sensing remote output. This made wiring the amp incredibly easy since I didn't want to mess with the fuse box.

    Other than the color choice of carpet I used (I thought the trunk was more black than gray) I think it looks great and fit my needs very well. It gets plenty loud and there are no rattles that need addressed inside or outside the car. Oh, it also sounds fantastic. I've always loved the Reference subs and these passives make tuning low in a small volume very easy. And no, there are no excursion issues at all using the same Sd on both active and passive drivers.

    After getting this installed I couldn't think of any automotive designs I've seen that used a passive radiator so I thought I'd share.
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    Your results may vary.

  • #2
    Very nice. I think the only thing I would add to this is some sturdy grills for protection when you put stuf in your trunk.
    Don't worry, if your parachute fails, you have the rest of your life to fix it.

    If we all did the things we are capable of doing, we would literally ASTOUND ourselves - Thomas A. Edison

    Some people collect stamps, Imelda Marcos collected shoes. I collect speakers.:D

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    • #3
      Originally posted by thekorvers View Post
      Very nice. I think the only thing I would add to this is some sturdy grills for protection when you put stuf in your trunk.
      Thanks.

      Something is in the works for this along with a couple LED's, but I haven't quite figured it out yet. All I know is that I don't want it to be conventional.
      Your results may vary.

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      • #4
        Very cool! Love the super clean look. I like the led idea just don't get too crazy. 🙈
        Builds - C-Killa - Speedsters - LithMTM - Talking Sticks - Pocket Rockets - Khanspires - Dayton RS Center - RS225/28A - Kairos - Adelphos - SEOS TD12X - Dayton 8 - Needles - 871S - eD6c - Overnight Sensations - Tritrix (ported) - Lineup F4 - Stentorians - The Cheapies - Tub Thumpers - Barbells - Tuba HT - Numerous subwoofers - probably missing a few...... :p

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        • #5
          Originally posted by joeybutts View Post
          Very cool! Love the super clean look. I like the led idea just don't get too crazy. 🙈
          Thanks Joey...and no, I'm still on the fence about doing it actually
          Your results may vary.

          Comment


          • #6
            Which tweeters did you use to match up with the PS65

            Comment


            • #7
              Sweet. You don't often see PRs used in car audio. Actually very rarely. Last time I saw one was a Kicker design many, many years ago. I guess the idea of having a heavy cone bouncing around undamped (when the amp is off) on a floppy suspension in a moving car probably didn't sit well with car audio DIYers...

              ​As those are metal-coned drivers, something more substantial than the simple PE grille may be required. Consider a clear plexiglass plate mounted about two or more inches in front of the drivers, with open space on the sides.

              Brian Steele
              www.diysubwoofers.org

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by rickyj View Post
                Which tweeters did you use to match up with the PS65
                The tweeters I used were a sample we received and have no part number. They are a 1" silk type car audio style mount (a few mounting flanges were included, etc). I believe we are bringing them in soon but don't quote me on that. I will add however, I only had to use a simple second order high pass and am just letting the PS65's run full range. It works very well. I did have to attenuate the tweeters a few dB.

                Originally posted by Brian Steele View Post
                Sweet. You don't often see PRs used in car audio. Actually very rarely. Last time I saw one was a Kicker design many, many years ago. I guess the idea of having a heavy cone bouncing around undamped (when the amp is off) on a floppy suspension in a moving car probably didn't sit well with car audio DIYers...

                ​As those are metal-coned drivers, something more substantial than the simple PE grille may be required. Consider a clear plexiglass plate mounted about two or more inches in front of the drivers, with open space on the sides.
                It's funny you even mention this type of protection, this is basically what I was considering. I'm not yet sure if I want to though.
                Your results may vary.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Looks clean Matt.
                  I should do something like that for my Accord. My rear deck sub setup is shaking and vibrating.
                  Does the bass get into the cabin okay being in the trunk?

                  TomZ
                  *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
                  *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF *Cello's Speaker Project Page

                  *Building the "Micro-B 2.1 Plate Amplifier -- Part 1 * Part 2 * Part 3 * Part 4 * * Part 5 'Review' * -- Assembly Instructions PDF

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                  • #10
                    A passive radiator is a port that mice do not go through. It is just a port loaded with a cone instead of air. You tune it by putting weights on the cone back versus adding length to or shortening the air column in the tube. PVC pip is cheaper.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by shene View Post
                      A passive radiator is a port that mice do not go through. It is just a port loaded with a cone instead of air. You tune it by putting weights on the cone back versus adding length to or shortening the air column in the tube. PVC pip is cheaper.
                      I'm not certain why you felt there was a need to post the general definition of a passive radiator. It's a pretty common thing around these parts.
                      Wolf
                      "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
                      "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
                      "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
                      "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

                      *InDIYana event website*

                      Photobucket pages:
                      http://photobucket.com/Wolf-Speakers_and_more

                      My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
                      http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Wolf View Post

                        I'm not certain why you felt there was a need to post the general definition of a passive radiator. It's a pretty common thing around these parts.
                        Wolf
                        Great way to welcome a first time poster to the forum. Wasn't there a thread a while back that addressed stuff like this and the impact it has had on people leaving this forum?

                        I soak up as much knowledge as I can and learned something by reading the post. Guess not so common...
                        "A dirty shop is an unsafe shop, if you injure yourself in a clean shop you are just stupid" - Coach Kupchinsky

                        The Madeleine
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                        • #13
                          Sorry, Gordy, but I didn't think I was out of line, and I wasn't trying to be snarky. What it looked like was something that was really out of place. Not to mention that it was their first forum post made in over 2 years since joining. It looked like someone bot-posted, honestly. I really thought this was common knowledge on how they work for anyone entertaining the hobby or in the hobby.

                          I thought about signing off with 'Welcome to the forum', but then noticed how long they'd been a member.

                          Later, and no harm intended,
                          Wolf
                          "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
                          "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
                          "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
                          "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

                          *InDIYana event website*

                          Photobucket pages:
                          http://photobucket.com/Wolf-Speakers_and_more

                          My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
                          http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by tomzarbo View Post
                            Looks clean Matt.
                            I should do something like that for my Accord. My rear deck sub setup is shaking and vibrating.
                            Does the bass get into the cabin okay being in the trunk?

                            TomZ
                            Tom,

                            The deck lid in my car is pretty open and large so the sound passes into the cab pretty easily. It won't win any SPL competitions but it will knock the socks off of any factory sub, both in output and SQ. The only rattle I have is my license plate, but that's easy to fix.

                            Originally posted by shene View Post
                            A passive radiator is a port that mice do not go through. It is just a port loaded with a cone instead of air. You tune it by putting weights on the cone back versus adding length to or shortening the air column in the tube. PVC pip is cheaper.
                            Most people here are aware of what a passive is and how it works. Yes PVC is cheaper, but using a port that is large enough in diameter to not have port noise and long enough to achieve the same tune will not fit in this volume. This was a proof of concept type build and something I hadn't tried yet. It will not be for everyone.

                            MP
                            Your results may vary.

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