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micro 2.1 system for computer use (with 3" subwoofer)

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  • micro 2.1 system for computer use (with 3" subwoofer)

    I've learned a lot from many people here. Thank you -- it is appreciated.

    the system is powered by the 2.1 closeout amp. Lots of ideas about this from TomZ's Micro-B amp design. Most importantly, use the 10k potentiometer for the subwoofer volume control (not the 50k, which induces too much noise). Powered by an old laptop power supply. Miscellaneous connectors (banana plug receptacles, etc) from the 90% off sale at a local [email protected]@ck that went out of business.

    Subwoofer is the Tang Band W3 3" driver. Great low end range but the iron law applies and then sensitivity of this driver is low (76 dB 1w/1m). I paired it with a 3,5" peerless passive radiator in the PE 0.04 cubic foot knockdown enclosure. Used paperbacked cherry veneer with a few coats of Tung oil.

    L and R speakers are the full range Dayton PS95 speakers with a contour filter. That really evens out the sound and also ends up knocking down sensitivity in order to pair it well with the subwoofer. Enclosures are seven sided pine boxes that I found at Target. Stained and then finished with Tung oil. Thought about using the same cherry veneer but the shape of the box is too complex for a novice like me.

    Sounds is great -- very happy. But admittedly, the max volume is limited to probably around 90 dB. But when sitting at my computer desk, that's all I need

    front back

  • #2
    Looks great, and very, very cool! The wood on the L & R doesn't look like pine, might be some Asian variety.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by randyohoh View Post
      Looks great, and very, very cool! The wood on the L & R doesn't look like pine, might be some Asian variety.
      Could be. They're made in China boxes for $3.99 each. Looked light in color like pine before I stained them to match the cherry veneer on the micro-subwoofer

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      • #4
        Pretty cool looking project!
        Didn't know the 3" TB would work with that PR, though I never tried. Nice!

        TomZ
        *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
        *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF *Cello's Speaker Project Page

        *Building the "Micro-B 2.1 Plate Amplifier -- Part 1 * Part 2 * Part 3 * Part 4 * * Part 5 'Review' * -- Assembly Instructions PDF

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        • #5
          For best results use 2PRs. Microdots...
          Wolf
          "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
          "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
          "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
          "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

          *InDIYana event website*

          Photobucket pages:
          http://photobucket.com/Wolf-Speakers_and_more

          My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
          http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Wolf View Post
            For best results use 2PRs. Microdots...
            Wolf
            Ahhhh, I should have known.

            One of the few of your speakers I have not built.

            I hope to finally finish up the N.E.H.D. speakers this summer when I get some time off. They've been sitting in raw MDF for like, two years. Shame on me!

            TomZ
            *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
            *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF *Cello's Speaker Project Page

            *Building the "Micro-B 2.1 Plate Amplifier -- Part 1 * Part 2 * Part 3 * Part 4 * * Part 5 'Review' * -- Assembly Instructions PDF

            Comment


            • #7
              I am trying to learn all I can about crossover design, can you tell me more about how your contour filter works?

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              • #8
                Originally posted by ThisJustin View Post
                I am trying to learn all I can about crossover design, can you tell me more about how your contour filter works?

                Basically, I used a baffle step correction and then a parallel LCR (inductor-capacitor-resistor) to smooth out the response. All modeled with one of the available free crossover programs.

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                • #9
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                  updated with a better subwoofer driver

                  now using the Tang Band W3-1750SB in the same 0.04 cubic ft knockdown box and the peerless 3.5" 830878 passive radiator. Tuning freq around 50 Hz.

                  as wolf pointed out, using the older W3-1876S would be better with 2 of the passive radiators (his 'microdot' plan)

                  also the W3-1750SB has a much better sensitivity so it's able to play louder. Same 2.1 amp as in TomZ's Micro-B build.




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                  • #10
                    Beautiful project! Well implemented.

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