Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Purrsay - Silverline

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Purrsay - Silverline

    It's a start to a project anyways.
    More, sometime soon hopefully.
    When time.
    3 LCR's
    Each unit:
    Two Peerless 6.5" Woofers
    https://www.parts-express.com/peerle...4-ohm--299-250

    One HDS 5.25" mid
    https://www.parts-express.com/sold-o...oofer--299-234

    One Dayton Silkie
    https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...eeter--275-076

  • #2
    With all those truncated frames what do you think about scrunching the drivers tight together?
    Projects:

    transcenD: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...5035-transcend
    Summits: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...75-The-Summits
    References: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...-My-References
    Vintage Style 2-way: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...-vintage-2-way

    Comment


    • #3
      Too late.
      I was thinking of structure strength at the time!
      Still closer than if they were round.
      I'm running black spacers between them after a veneer is applied on the removable baffel.
      Space is about 1/2" between each driver when done.
      Screws are temp., No black pans in the area.

      Comment


      • #4
        The speakers are fairly liow profile.
        I finally decided on a simple base stand for tilt.
        All that is needed.
        It will be seperate, slightly larger than the speaker.
        It will raise the front to the top edge inside the stand.
        It will have a vibration damping inside and some very small rubberized feet underneath the stand also.
        It will collect a little dust. Super easy to vacuum, anyway.
        Well happy to finally have it all together soon.
        Should have some pics when glued in a couple weeks.
        I don't have a shop area, so it's a big ordeal to gather everything, in n out cutting!!

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Sigil View Post
          Screws are temp., No black pans in the area.
          I might be in the minority on this but I like nickel or stainless screws on black frames..
          Projects:

          transcenD: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...5035-transcend
          Summits: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...75-The-Summits
          References: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...-My-References
          Vintage Style 2-way: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...-vintage-2-way

          Comment


          • #6
            Ya, it's ok. Takes a bit getting use to. There just 3/4 in. The tweeter uses a size smaller screw head. Well, nothing special or complicated for my first build, but my first cabinet is dry fit. I have just enough wood for my Left/Right. Short a bit of wood on my stand bases and center support. So Im going to copy the supports n cut for the R. Find clamps (not cheap!!) for glueing. Figure the crossover out on P.C in a couple weeks. Finish the veneer etc. after I have a working passive crossover.

            Comment


            • #7
              I guess you could really fly through some simple designs, quickly.
              If another build, I will do it will in 3d modeling for a more complex system.

              Comment


              • #8
                I've used that Peerless buyout woofer a couple of times. Really great sounding woofer with excellent sensitivity. It could easily match up to the silky in an MTM without a midrange driver. Its only short coming is that it won't extend very low in frequency. LouC used it in about 22 Liters in his Lecbos project with a F3 of about 70 Hz. I recently used it in an MTM in 17 liters with about the same F3. I matched it up with the Dayton Audio ND25FW tweeter. Awesome sounding speakers for very little money. I'd publish my design but the woofer is no long available :( wish I could buy 100 more of them...
                Expensive caps need time to break in. More expensive caps take a long time. Cheap caps sound great right out of the box.

                Why I don't spray in first gear: http://s1138.photobucket.com/albums/...t=100_2585.mp4

                Comment


                • #9
                  Yee, it' can be hard to find dual drivers with high sensitivity. Unless in parallel.
                  Im not sure how the sensitivity can match the tweeter yet. Maybe I will learn more once in a a simulation software.Since there is a loss of bass db below a 1000 Hz.
                  The mid does linee up with the tweeter. Problem is in the low end its db is around 86. Crossed around 550hz and that's down, more. So some type of gain and/or baffel step will be needed.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Everything is about ready for gluing. Final touches. Whenever I get around to buying the clamps! I decided on a very simple and cheap stand for the L/R speakers. Basically where the plate of wood is shown in the image. Home Depot sells square metal tubing that I will be filling with some type of filler to cement screw/bolt in place for a removable stand base. It will thread to the underneath of the speaker wihere the bolt nuts are embedded. Special feet also on the bottom. Center, very last. I may cut it down. It has to fit upright under a TV and will be on a very thin pad base slightly angled upright to the listener. Looking good. Happy so far how it's going to look. Sound a ways off!

                    Comment

                    Working...
                    X