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  • #16
    So... add corner reinforcement all around the inside of that edge then you can put a big bevel all around it which will cover up that error. Also- your bracing scheme adds very little side-side strength. I'd cut some sticks and add them across the "windows" laterally. If you cut them slightly small and use soft caulk to secure them, you'll have the benefit of damped bracing (which is more effective than rigid).

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    • #17
      Just to inform of the initial preparation....

      Here is the simulation and the preliminary xover, using in-box measurements:

      PXO vs SXO (except above 10kHz):
      Click image for larger version

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      Parallel sim:
      Click image for larger version

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      Series sim:
      Click image for larger version

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      And the networks:

      Click image for larger version

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      And the initial measurements:

      Click image for larger version

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      I'll be mocking up both at Steve's place, taking measurements for verification, and he'll decide which he prefers or if changes are needed.

      More later,
      Wolf
      "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
      "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
      "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
      "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

      *InDIYana event website*

      Photobucket pages:
      http://photobucket.com/Wolf-Speakers_and_more

      My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
      http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

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      • #18
        Originally posted by badman View Post
        So... add corner reinforcement all around the inside of that edge then you can put a big bevel all around it which will cover up that error. Also- your bracing scheme adds very little side-side strength. I'd cut some sticks and add them across the "windows" laterally. If you cut them slightly small and use soft caulk to secure them, you'll have the benefit of damped bracing (which is more effective than rigid).

        I appreciate the suggestion. I want to make sure what you mean... Are you saying to add "sticks" horizontally? Is so, I assume midway between each existing horizontal brace? ... Again, thanks for the input.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Wolf View Post

          I'll be mocking up both at Steve's place, taking measurements for verification, and he'll decide which he prefers or if changes are needed.

          More later,
          Wolf
          Can't wait!!

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          • #20
            Originally posted by skvinson66 View Post


            I appreciate the suggestion. I want to make sure what you mean... Are you saying to add "sticks" horizontally? Is so, I assume midway between each existing horizontal brace? ... Again, thanks for the input.
            Yup- exactly.

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            • #21
              badman have you used the DE250? I am contemplating a build using the FE8 (or 10) and the Peerless DFM-2535 (part #264-1420). Any subjective comparisons between them? As if I recall you were in the thread about the peerless. the B&C is more than double the price, but wondering if the Peerless could keep up or if the DE250 is worth the extra cash. Not trying to hijack the thread Wolf, just curious on the horn selection!

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              • #22
                I haven't used it but all indications are that it's excellent. It's a larger diaphragm than the peerless, so you can push it a little more at the bottom end, where the peerless seems to have a little better top end. Most of the time, that's a win for the B&C, unless you're crossing higher. The Faitals are really nice drivers for the money, and should be able to work well with either comp driver on a decent waveguide, like the seos used here. I prefer larger waveguides wherever possible as they make crossovers a lot easier (which tends to mean better end results), but if you're using something like the 10", either is a good option, the waveguide is on the small side for the L.F. abilities to matter much, you'll likely want to cross near 1.5kHz either way. Low for a pro system, but should be fine at home SPLs.

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                • #23
                  Ok thanks for the feedback.

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