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Buyout Boombox with Quarks and a Subwoofer

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  • Buyout Boombox with Quarks and a Subwoofer

    Attached Files

  • #2
    Very nice!

    I think I hear a difference - wow, it's amazing!" Ethan Winer: audio myths
    "As God is my witness I'll never be without a good pair of speakers!" Scarlett O'Hara

    High value, high quality RS150/TB28-537SH bookshelf - TARGAS NLA!
    SB13/Vifa BC25SC06 MTM DCR Galeons-SB13-MTM
    My Voxel min sub Yet-another-Voxel-build

    Tangband W6-sub

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    • #3
      Build details please . That looks pretty good!
      Brian Steele
      www.diysubwoofers.org

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      • #4
        Nice job! Like Brian says, give us some build details.
        Don't worry, if your parachute fails, you have the rest of your life to fix it.

        If we all did the things we are capable of doing, we would literally ASTOUND ourselves - Thomas A. Edison

        Some people collect stamps, Imelda Marcos collected shoes. I collect speakers.:D

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        • #5
          ok, some details:

          box is the PE knockdown 0.5 cubic foot box. 3/4" thick MDF walls, internal cabinet brace. Solid -- almost too much because the box is so heavy.

          here's a pic of the raw MDF box with the test fit of the drivers. The amp is an e_bay bluetooth special claiming to be 100w x 1 and 50w x 2, though it's prob less. Power brick is 24v x 5A which is 120w of input power, so I figure that the max total wattage is 100 watts, likely something close to 50w x 1 and 25w x 2. In any case, enough wattage to make it uncomfortably loud.

          I call it the buyout boombox since so many parts were buyouts or from the classified forum here

          Crossover Parts used for the Quarks:
          -For FE83 woofers, 80uF NPE (buyout!) x 2 in parallel to make 160uF to roll off the lower octaves of bass, then into a 1.0mH inductor (buyout) and into the FE83 (from classifieds - thanks Don!)
          -For ND20 tweeters (buyout), 8 ohm resistor (buyout from RAD), then 2.7 uF cap (Clarity cap buyout from Madi), then shunt coil of 0.2 mH (buyout from RAD -- 0.22 mH and then unwound to 0.2mH), into the tweeter with inverted polarity

          -I used hot glue to secure a hard plastic cup over each woofer to protect it from the effects of the 6.5" subwoofer DCS165-4 (from classifieds - thanks Kerry!)
          -port is the 2" diameter flared port kit from PE. Length of about 12" which gives a tuning around 40Hz and extension into the 30s.
          -the veneer is some extra stuff I had in the garage. I use the TomZ method with the iron-on glue and an old t-shirt. Then a few coats of Tung Oil.
          -the handle is the $5 special from PE (buyout)

          No battery power on this beast. Meant to be used mostly outside near our fire pit plugged into the 110v outlet. The adjustable subwoofer level control is helpful when outside due to no room / wall gain. Indoors, the sub level can be brought down.

          It really sounds great due to the clean nature of the Quarks and I enjoy the full, fat bass from it too.

          Not the fanciest build -- I'm still learning here. I forgot to route out recesses for flush mounting of the drivers, and once the full thickness hole is cut in to the MDF, it's not easy to go back do it. Next time I'll remember to flush mount the drivers.
          Attached Files

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          • #6
            Very nice. Looks like a well thought-out project.
            Don't worry, if your parachute fails, you have the rest of your life to fix it.

            If we all did the things we are capable of doing, we would literally ASTOUND ourselves - Thomas A. Edison

            Some people collect stamps, Imelda Marcos collected shoes. I collect speakers.:D

            Comment

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