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Tang Band T-Line for 2011 Silverado

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  • #31
    Originally posted by Danger dad View Post
    I use WinISD pro and Sketchup for all my designs but I was unsure how to do that with a T-line so I followed these basic guide lines. I would like to know if I can improve the design some how.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q2VL_FHu9AY
    ​Those design guidelines are pretty bad. Any design guidelines that ignore a driver's t/s parameters as part of the process are probably not very good. Those guidelines are based on "classical" TL theory, which is obsolete.

    This doesn't mean that what you built might not be performing well, however.

    ​Let me know the length and cross-sectional area of what you built - I'll run that and the driver's t/s parameters through Hornresp to see what it predicts.
    Brian Steele
    www.diysubwoofers.org

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    • #32
      Thanks Brian! I took the SD 140 cm2 = 21.7 in2. My terminus is 3.863 X 5.62'' that = 27.71 in2. The length was measured from the blue center line and is 96.857''

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      • #33
        Based on that info you provided, I came up with the following model. Looks like decent extension down to the 30's. Note that the peaks will be a lot less peaky IRL as Hornresp does not include the impact of box losses in its sims. The deep notch above 100 Hz is caused by having the driver right at the end of the line instead of part of the way down it. You didn't mention which W6 driver, so I assumed that it was the W6-1139SIF.

        Brian Steele
        www.diysubwoofers.org

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        • #34
          That's good to hear Brian. I am using the W6-1139ISF driver also my door speakers go down into the 70's and I have the sub crossed at about 80 so the big dip might not be too big of a deal. Also this is a car stereo and nothing is ever ideal! I will look work on improving on the design to fit this location better. Wood is cheap and I'm fascinated with the science behind these enclosures. do you have a link to more info on driver placement or TL design that is relevant

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          • #35
            Originally posted by Danger dad View Post
            That's good to hear Brian. I am using the W6-1139ISF driver also my door speakers go down into the 70's and I have the sub crossed at about 80 so the big dip might not be too big of a deal. Also this is a car stereo and nothing is ever ideal! I will look work on improving on the design to fit this location better. Wood is cheap and I'm fascinated with the science behind these enclosures. do you have a link to more info on driver placement or TL design that is relevant
            http://www.quarter-wave.com/
            http://www.t-linespeakers.org/
            Brian Steele
            www.diysubwoofers.org

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            • #36
              This is how I would've approached your build
              * use this as a starting point http://www.quarter-wave.com/TLs/Alig...tor_3_3_09.xls and input the resultant geometry into horn resp to get a better idea of response.
              * play with the dimensions / driver placement / stuffing to reduce any peak at the low end (underdamped bass) and aim for a gentle droop into the lower frequencies (cabin gain will boost those freqs. up)
              * plan on stuffing maybe the first 1/2 - 2/3 of the line only

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