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Fun with the new ND Passive's - The Passive Aggressives

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  • mattp
    replied
    Guys,

    A kit is forthcoming so I would urge you to wait a little bit to save on the cost of these little guys if you are inclined to want a pair. I will have cabinet samples tomorrow which means the manual can be started soon. (Assuming no cabinet changes are needed.)

    Also, yes, if certain parts I posted are not in stock they can be replaced with other brands of the same value. These are a 4 ohm speaker.

    Matt

    Leave a comment:


  • BOBinGA
    replied
    Oh, it's definitely a 4 ohm speaker. The woofer is spec'ed at 4 ohms. Plus, the lmpedence curve in post #2 is almost exactly 4 ohms from 200 hz to 1000 hz. But it doesn't go at all below 4 ohms, so almost any receiver could drive them. But don't try to parallel two. That would be a 2 ohm load and a real problem for a modest receiver to handle.

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  • mga2009
    replied
    Can anyone confirm if this is an 8ohm or 4ohm speaker?

    My poorly understanding of this diagram, tells me it's an 8ohm speaker:
    http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fi...tch?id=1370583

    But the impedance curve shows values closer to 4ohm...

    Leave a comment:


  • djg
    replied
    I just submitted the same order. The Jantzen coil is the same gauge and inductance, no problem.

    Leave a comment:


  • mga2009
    replied
    Hi,

    I am looking for a pair of little surrounds for my system, and found these while looking the Heliums and Quarks...

    These would be used for movies and gaming, hanged from the rear wall. Do you think the location might affect SQ?

    I've attached a BOM from PE. Had to replace the 3ohm 5w resistor with a 10W, and the Dayton Inductor 0.15mh with a Jatzen, as both items where not in stock. Is it OK?

    Thanks!

    Leave a comment:


  • tomzarbo
    replied
    Got to hear these at the MWAF yesterday and they were pretty dang impressive! I will be putting a set of these together likely pretty soon.
    TomZ

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  • Jake
    replied
    I like the name, quite appropriate! Impressive tuning on a tiny box. I think a kit would do well.

    Leave a comment:


  • ceiol
    replied
    thank you

    very helpful for a novice like me.

    Leave a comment:


  • mattp
    replied
    Sure, I sent them to you via PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • ceiol
    replied
    Originally posted by mattp View Post

    I used my own in-box measurements for my XO design. Phase still isn't perfect but that would explain why you are getting a different curve with your sims.

    would you mind sharing your measured FRD and ZMA files? It would be educational for me to play around with them.

    thanks in advance!
    Last edited by ceiol; 03-30-2018, 02:24 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mike Burke
    replied
    Oh Yea....I see that now.

    Got it

    Thanks for the help

    Leave a comment:


  • mattp
    replied
    Originally posted by Mike Burke View Post
    Thanks Matt for posting all the details. Great information..Thanks

    " Also...the woofer and tweeter need to be wired in positive polarity"

    Does that mean the the positive from the woofer goes to the positive of the tweeter ?


    No, instead of the tweeter polarity being reversed as the schematic shows, it just needs to be wired normally.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mike Burke
    replied
    Thanks Matt for posting all the details. Great information..Thanks

    " Also...the woofer and tweeter need to be wired in positive polarity"

    Does that mean the the positive from the woofer goes to the positive of the tweeter ?


    Leave a comment:


  • mattp
    replied
    Originally posted by Mike Burke View Post
    Looks like my next project.

    Looking at the schematic....C2 48UF is that right ? or is it a 4.8UF ?
    I hate to ask but I'm going to anyway
    Do you have a bill of matterials with part #s

    Thanks,
    Mike
    Mike,

    Yes that is indeed 48uF. I used electrolytics for everything just to save space. I also used 5W wire wound resistors for the woofer zobel because it is smaller. There is a 50uF in place of the 48uF in the list because we don't have a 48uF that is small. You can parallel two other values together if you want (this is what I ended up doing) but this 2uF difference will amount to nothing in the long run. Also...the woofer and tweeter need to be wired in positive polarity, unlike what the schematic shows. I forgot to fix this when I uploaded the pic.

    Parts list:

    Two of each of these:

    027-420
    027-406
    027-354
    015-3
    004-9.1
    257-022
    257-036
    290-224
    275-035
    091-1245

    Four 290-209


    One 300-7060

    Driver spacing - Everything is centered on the baffle, the tweeter is 1.5" down from the top and the woofer is 2.5" up from the bottom. The passives are centered on the sides but I would recommend offsetting these each by about 1/8" up and down (one passive a little higher, the other a little lower) unless you want to just cut the excess threaded rod off the back.

    I mounted my crossover on the bottom but it will also fit on the back if you make it small enough. Be careful that nothing is in the way of the passives such as wiring. I'm making all this sound a lot more complicated than it really is. If you have any specific questions let me know.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mike Burke
    replied
    Looks like my next project.

    Looking at the schematic....C2 48UF is that right ? or is it a 4.8UF ?
    I hate to ask but I'm going to anyway
    Do you have a bill of matterials with part #s

    Thanks,
    Mike

    Leave a comment:

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