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Working on some Wolf's PC speakers... Or at least Wolf-inspired.

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  • #16
    Originally posted by aramid View Post

    I was thinking something like the press-fit ND16FA-6 would be simple enough to integrate.
    I did the same thing -- a build with the Aura NS3-4 Ohm (same as the Dayton ND90-4) with the Dayton ND16FA-6 tweeter
    see here:*http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...pepper-boombox

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    • #17
      Ceiol, thanks for posting that. I'm glad to see someone has put those parts together before; I might have to take a stab at it.

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      • #18
        Very nice build. Love the round-overs and the light finish that brings out the grain, really professional looking. Inspiring!

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        • #19
          Not only does the 8ohm vers (or ND90-8) model lower, but it's also got a fuller top 1 to 1-1/2 octaves. Your 4ohmer drops -5dB between 7k and 8kHz (so, you might find the -8 to lack as much w/out a tweeter).
          Anyway, I encourage you to try the 8ohm in a (0.15cf) vented cab. If you don't want to try my "piconeo", Scott MUST have a vented ND90-8 (NOT the ND91) that will reach almost as low. Too much fun.

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          • #20
            Jonbourg, thanks for the kind words!

            Chris Roemer, thanks for clarifying the difference between the 4 and 8-ohm versions. In the end, I'm pretty disappointed with how these sound, and that information illustrates exactly why. Unfortunately, even with that clarified, I don't know for sure where to take it from here. I can switch to the ND90-8, but I'll wind up spending $50 on parts. Or I can try adding the ND16FA-6, which will likely wind up costing even more by the time I'm done screwing with the crossover. Or I can build Bagby's Quarks for about $80 and use these as-is somewhere the missing top end won't bother me. They'd actually make decent home theater surrounds; I don't currently have surrounds at all, so even with the missing top end I wouldn't actually be losing anything I'm getting now.

            Edit: Upon further reflection, if I'm buying drivers anyway, I might try turning these into Scott Sehlin's Heliums. The size is right, I just need to switch to ND91's and add a tweeter and port.

            As for putting the 8-ohm into a vented cabinet, I can believe it. I've used the NS3 4-ohm previously in Carmody's Sprite, and getting that much bass out of such a tiny driver is really amusing. I haven't measured it, but I suspect I'm missing the top end there, as well, but in a boom box I'm okay with it. I'm not listening very critically when that's playing, and in any case I think it's worth the trade-off to get more power from a 12v battery.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by aramid View Post
              Jonbourg, thanks for the kind words!

              Chris Roemer, thanks for clarifying the difference between the 4 and 8-ohm versions. In the end, I'm pretty disappointed with how these sound, and that information illustrates exactly why. Unfortunately, even with that clarified, I don't know for sure where to take it from here. I can switch to the ND90-8, but I'll wind up spending $50 on parts. Or I can try adding the ND16FA-6, which will likely wind up costing even more by the time I'm done screwing with the crossover. Or I can build Bagby's Quarks for about $80 and use these as-is somewhere the missing top end won't bother me. They'd actually make decent home theater surrounds; I don't currently have surrounds at all, so even with the missing top end I wouldn't actually be losing anything I'm getting now.

              Edit: Upon further reflection, if I'm buying drivers anyway, I might try turning these into Scott Sehlin's Heliums. The size is right, I just need to switch to ND91's and add a tweeter and port.

              As for putting the 8-ohm into a vented cabinet, I can believe it. I've used the NS3 4-ohm previously in Carmody's Sprite, and getting that much bass out of such a tiny driver is really amusing. I haven't measured it, but I suspect I'm missing the top end there, as well, but in a boom box I'm okay with it. I'm not listening very critically when that's playing, and in any case I think it's worth the trade-off to get more power from a 12v battery.
              Aramid, I actually used Scott's helium crossover with the nd16fa, and this driver. Box is .144cf with the 1"3/8" port 5.75" long. Very happy with the results. If your gonna* do the work, that's what I would recommend.

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              • #22
                Maybe you could add a small tweet to the top like on an open baffle or a small orb or bullet?

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by Chris Roemer View Post
                  Not only does the 8ohm vers (or ND90-8) model lower, but it's also got a fuller top 1 to 1-1/2 octaves. Your 4ohmer drops -5dB between 7k and 8kHz (so, you might find the -8 to lack as much w/out a tweeter).
                  I didn't feel like drilling holes and building crossovers, so decided to give this a try - I ordered a pair of 8-ohm NS3's and new capacitors. It worked okay. I gained about 1,500 Hz on the top end, and they do sound a touch more crisp. On the plus side, I think I like the silver anodized cones with the pale wood.

                  The attached picture is before (4-ohm, green) and after (8-ohm, red) sitting at my computer desk, in a poor acoustic environment. This is running with the Voxel sub still, in case that wasn't obvious.
                  Attached Files

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                  • #24
                    These are definitely no longer Wolf's anything, but right now I don't have another name for them.

                    I finally got around to installing some tweeters, Dayton ND16FA-6. I don't know anything about crossovers, so this is really winging it, but it seems to have worked out okay. Basically, the tweeter gets a first-order high-pass at 7 KHz and an 8dB L-pad, while the woofer continues to just roll off on its own. This probably does horrible things to phase alignment, and other subjects I know nothing about, but right off the bat I like the sound better than the NS3's alone, and the frequency response graph is picked up nicely.

                    The frequency response measurements weren't taken in the same room as my earlier graphs, and weren't accompanied by a subwoofer, so they're not comparable to anything else in the thread. I'll try to find time to measure them with the sub again in the future, but for now I was a lot more interested in back-to-back comparisons.

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