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Working on some Wolf's PC speakers... Or at least Wolf-inspired.

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  • #16
    Originally posted by aramid View Post

    I was thinking something like the press-fit ND16FA-6 would be simple enough to integrate.
    I did the same thing -- a build with the Aura NS3-4 Ohm (same as the Dayton ND90-4) with the Dayton ND16FA-6 tweeter
    see here:¬*http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...pepper-boombox

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    • #17
      Ceiol, thanks for posting that. I'm glad to see someone has put those parts together before; I might have to take a stab at it.

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      • #18
        Very nice build. Love the round-overs and the light finish that brings out the grain, really professional looking. Inspiring!

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        • #19
          Not only does the 8ohm vers (or ND90-8) model lower, but it's also got a fuller top 1 to 1-1/2 octaves. Your 4ohmer drops -5dB between 7k and 8kHz (so, you might find the -8 to lack as much w/out a tweeter).
          Anyway, I encourage you to try the 8ohm in a (0.15cf) vented cab. If you don't want to try my "piconeo", Scott MUST have a vented ND90-8 (NOT the ND91) that will reach almost as low. Too much fun.

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          • #20
            Jonbourg, thanks for the kind words!

            Chris Roemer, thanks for clarifying the difference between the 4 and 8-ohm versions. In the end, I'm pretty disappointed with how these sound, and that information illustrates exactly why. Unfortunately, even with that clarified, I don't know for sure where to take it from here. I can switch to the ND90-8, but I'll wind up spending $50 on parts. Or I can try adding the ND16FA-6, which will likely wind up costing even more by the time I'm done screwing with the crossover. Or I can build Bagby's Quarks for about $80 and use these as-is somewhere the missing top end won't bother me. They'd actually make decent home theater surrounds; I don't currently have surrounds at all, so even with the missing top end I wouldn't actually be losing anything I'm getting now.

            Edit: Upon further reflection, if I'm buying drivers anyway, I might try turning these into Scott Sehlin's Heliums. The size is right, I just need to switch to ND91's and add a tweeter and port.

            As for putting the 8-ohm into a vented cabinet, I can believe it. I've used the NS3 4-ohm previously in Carmody's Sprite, and getting that much bass out of such a tiny driver is really amusing. I haven't measured it, but I suspect I'm missing the top end there, as well, but in a boom box I'm okay with it. I'm not listening very critically when that's playing, and in any case I think it's worth the trade-off to get more power from a 12v battery.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by aramid View Post
              Jonbourg, thanks for the kind words!

              Chris Roemer, thanks for clarifying the difference between the 4 and 8-ohm versions. In the end, I'm pretty disappointed with how these sound, and that information illustrates exactly why. Unfortunately, even with that clarified, I don't know for sure where to take it from here. I can switch to the ND90-8, but I'll wind up spending $50 on parts. Or I can try adding the ND16FA-6, which will likely wind up costing even more by the time I'm done screwing with the crossover. Or I can build Bagby's Quarks for about $80 and use these as-is somewhere the missing top end won't bother me. They'd actually make decent home theater surrounds; I don't currently have surrounds at all, so even with the missing top end I wouldn't actually be losing anything I'm getting now.

              Edit: Upon further reflection, if I'm buying drivers anyway, I might try turning these into Scott Sehlin's Heliums. The size is right, I just need to switch to ND91's and add a tweeter and port.

              As for putting the 8-ohm into a vented cabinet, I can believe it. I've used the NS3 4-ohm previously in Carmody's Sprite, and getting that much bass out of such a tiny driver is really amusing. I haven't measured it, but I suspect I'm missing the top end there, as well, but in a boom box I'm okay with it. I'm not listening very critically when that's playing, and in any case I think it's worth the trade-off to get more power from a 12v battery.
              Aramid, I actually used Scott's helium crossover with the nd16fa, and this driver. Box is .144cf with the 1"3/8" port 5.75" long. Very happy with the results. If your gonna¬* do the work, that's what I would recommend.

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              • #22
                Maybe you could add a small tweet to the top like on an open baffle or a small orb or bullet?

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by Chris Roemer View Post
                  Not only does the 8ohm vers (or ND90-8) model lower, but it's also got a fuller top 1 to 1-1/2 octaves. Your 4ohmer drops -5dB between 7k and 8kHz (so, you might find the -8 to lack as much w/out a tweeter).
                  I didn't feel like drilling holes and building crossovers, so decided to give this a try - I ordered a pair of 8-ohm NS3's and new capacitors. It worked okay. I gained about 1,500 Hz on the top end, and they do sound a touch more crisp. On the plus side, I think I like the silver anodized cones with the pale wood.

                  The attached picture is before (4-ohm, green) and after (8-ohm, red) sitting at my computer desk, in a poor acoustic environment. This is running with the Voxel sub still, in case that wasn't obvious.
                  Attached Files

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