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PC Speakers (T Line Box)

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  • PC Speakers (T Line Box)

    Guys and Gals,

    Although i'm building something much much bigger, i decided to have a crack at a basic set of speakers to replace my old faithfuls. As i have never really soldered or some of this type of woodworking and finishing, i thought it was small enough to experiment/learn on the fly.

    I bought a pair of Tectonic TEBM65C20F-8 3-1/2in Full Range Drivers and powered it with the Dayton Audio DTA-2 2 channel amplifier board. The small amp board has 15w per channel @ 4Ohm, but these speakers are 8ohms, which meant the board actually has 10w per channel. It appears on paper to be low, but research online and paired with the right small drivers appears to be more than enough. I have had it quite up there in volume and it is quite nice. I found a guy online who had used the T-Line box with the same drivers and liked how it sounded, so i cheated and just asked for the dimensions and created that. The first box i made i decided to glue and screw the sides on, which was a bit of a disaster, although working meant i had to bog up quite a bit of it and the volume pot, speaker posts and the board itself needed to be recessed prior to assembly so it ended up on the scrap pile.

    the second attempt i decided to glue it only using the technique with the masking tape to "fold up" the mitre joins for gluing, this was much better, oh as well as actually routing in some groves for the future board, posts and volume knob. I had everything i order, checked everything multiple times and just as finishing off the main speaker, noticed that the solder on the rear speaker post and actually fallen off. and it was a nightmare to get back into place, we had to push out the post, solder it from the outside and push it back through the hole. downside to that was we couldnt put the nut back on, so there is some movement when putting the speaker wire into the slave speaker. All a good learning experience.

    if i was to attempt this again i would try something different for mounting the amp board and volume knob.

    Enough of my blabbering, now for some photos.


  • #2
    finished product.

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    • #3
      They look cool on your desk. But now the most important question: How does it sound?
      Don't worry, if your parachute fails, you have the rest of your life to fix it.

      If we all did the things we are capable of doing, we would literally ASTOUND ourselves - Thomas A. Edison

      Some people collect stamps, Imelda Marcos collected shoes. I collect speakers.:D

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      • #4
        Pretty good to be honest, I'm happy with how they sound. Pretty clear sound watching a movie and with music it is quite punchy. Surprised with the combination of output power and the driver producing a better sound than originally anticipated

        Maybe next time I'll try a proper 2 way.

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        • #5
          Interesting. How are those TLs folded inside the box? Can't tell from the picture...
          Brian Steele
          www.diysubwoofers.org

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          • #6
            I, too, would like more details, like how the line is arranged and its relevant dimensions, the driver location in the line and the stuffing regimen.
            Paul

            Originally posted by Brian Steele View Post
            Interesting. How are those TLs folded inside the box? Can't tell from the picture...

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            • #7
              What's the internal volume? Looks smaller than what I would expect. How well does that dta-2 power them? Those drivers are pretty inefficient.

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              • #8
                OP posted this.

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                • #9
                  Ah, the internal layout is similar to my Boom Unit design. Offset TL.
                  Brian Steele
                  www.diysubwoofers.org

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                  • #10
                    I used it as a basis for the build, being someone from.an urban development background it was a bit frustrating that the dimensions didn't "close". I put it into CAD and the box ended up being a bit bigger and wider than the sketch above showed.

                    Considering the amp is really pumping out 10w per channel I find the output.quite good, keeping in mind that they are at my PC and I don't really crank them up (but they can) and within 5-10m we have about 3 HiFi units, so no dance offs happening at these speakers.i wouldn't recommend.them if you are having a party and trying.to.shake the light fittings within the house, but I would if you were wanting to use them for portable or PC speakers. I wanted these to replace my old Logitech thx rated 2.1 speakers, which I was going to get a set of creative gigawatts.which was around that 100 AUD, I think these cost similar and suits my needs better. Plus there is the "look.what I did" factor

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Paul K. View Post
                      I, too, would like more details, like how the line is arranged and its relevant dimensions, the driver location in the line and the stuffing regimen.
                      Paul
                      Honestly I wasn't sure how to stuff these, I had left over stuffing/lining from the old towers I'm scrapping for my bigger project, put some in the first and wasn't sure if it reduced the lower frequency. At the moment I have a little bit in the top compartment on the space, but none in the master. I'm open to any suggestions on how to stuff these if it is beneficial. I think it is fairly noticeable that I'm new to speaker building and completely open to constructive criticism, tips or any other form of advice.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by djg View Post
                        OP posted this.
                        Actually I take back my previous statement about not closing, I'm use to working in metric and missed a step, the original design wasn't forthcoming with the timber thickness and I assumed something the poster said about it being 1/2inch or less, it is actually 3/4inch which in my speak is 19mm. I used 19mm dressed pine. The other inconsistency was with the internal width of the box, with the intention to be 3 1/2 inches, which is a few mm larger than the actual magnet/speaker dimensions and it called for the speaker centre to be 4.5 inches from the top which doesn't work. The t line box was designed for a speaker with a certain Hz which the tectronics were pretty close to in specs and somebody else was the ginea pig, all I really did was make it work to fit the speakers and add an amp

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Brian Steele View Post
                          Ah, the internal layout is similar to my Boom Unit design. Offset TL.
                          There are some fairly funky arrangements on-line, maybe if I understand how they work and what is best for me I might try something different next time. I would be interested in seeing pictures of this Boom.Unit.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by 3rutu5 View Post

                            There are some fairly funky arrangements on-line, maybe if I understand how they work and what is best for me I might try something different next time. I would be interested in seeing pictures of this Boom.Unit.
                            Here: https://www.diysubwoofers.org/projects/home/boomunit/

                            ...and here: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...-the-boom-unit

                            Interestingly enough the Boom Unit was designed for PC audio use as well, but as a subwoofer. It's a fully tapered TL, rather than a stepped TL like the subject of this thread. The internal panel is mounted at an angle instead of straight.
                            Brian Steele
                            www.diysubwoofers.org

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                            • #15
                              Line length looks to be about 24"-25", with the driver at 1/3 wave?

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