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  • Help with diy bluetooth speaker project

    Ok, so I am new at all of this, and desperately need help. I am building a Bluetooth speaker for myself. I need to make it in a cylinder form so here is what I have came up with so far. Please give me advice with what you think in what I have. I am going to use a 4 “ pvc pipe unless anyone has a better idea. For power I am using this https://www.ebay.com/itm/Portable-DC...kAAOSwbJla4XvW For amplifier I am using this https://www.amazon.com/Douk-Audio-Bl...FML&ref=plSrch For speakers I am using these. https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...4-ohm--295-378 Ok, so that is what I got. I would think that is all I need but I am not sure. Let me know what you think. Also, one more question. The battery I am using has a small on and off switch will a little light in it. I was going to just cut the power cable and add a on and off switch to that so I could put the switch on the outside of the cylinder to turn it on and off. My concern is I would have to leave the the power switch on the battery itself set to on since I won’t have access to it (it will be inside the enclosed cylinder) and I don’t know if that little light or leaving the switch on itself will drain the battery. I appreciate any help and advice I can get. Also, if anyone has any advice of what I could use on the inside of the cylinder around the components to help it be shock proof for like falls and drops I would appreciate it. Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • #2
    Looks like the battery output and charge port are wired together? Not sure how comfortable I'd be wiring a switch if that's the case. You might consider wiring the amp to a power switch, and D/C jack, using the battery externally. Or at least, leave a way to access the battery in case of failure. This setup will work, but battery life will be limited. That amp likes a little more current. The speakers are good ported or with a PR. I'd use .12cf internal volume with some baffle step. A simple inductor of .75-1.0mh and a resistor of 4-6 ohm wired parrallel in the positive line of each speaker will enhance the sound.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Jake View Post
      Looks like the battery output and charge port are wired together? Not sure how comfortable I'd be wiring a switch if that's the case. You might consider wiring the amp to a power switch, and D/C jack, using the battery externally. Or at least, leave a way to access the battery in case of failure. This setup will work, but battery life will be limited. That amp likes a little more current. The speakers are good ported or with a PR. I'd use .12cf internal volume with some baffle step. A simple inductor of .75-1.0mh and a resistor of 4-6 ohm wired parrallel in the positive line of each speaker will enhance the sound.
      Thanks for the reply. Do you have a better suggestion for a battery source to power everything instead of that one? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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      • #4
        Originally posted by pilotkilo86 View Post
        Ok, so I am new at all of this, and desperately need help. I am building a Bluetooth speaker for myself. I need to make it in a cylinder form so here is what I have came up with so far. Please give me advice with what you think in what I have. I am going to use a 4 “ pvc pipe unless anyone has a better idea. For power I am using this https://www.ebay.com/itm/Portable-DC...kAAOSwbJla4XvW For amplifier I am using this https://www.amazon.com/Douk-Audio-Bl...FML&ref=plSrch For speakers I am using these. https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...4-ohm--295-378 Ok, so that is what I got. I would think that is all I need but I am not sure. Let me know what you think. Also, one more question. The battery I am using has a small on and off switch will a little light in it. I was going to just cut the power cable and add a on and off switch to that so I could put the switch on the outside of the cylinder to turn it on and off. My concern is I would have to leave the the power switch on the battery itself set to on since I won’t have access to it (it will be inside the enclosed cylinder) and I don’t know if that little light or leaving the switch on itself will drain the battery. I appreciate any help and advice I can get. Also, if anyone has any advice of what I could use on the inside of the cylinder around the components to help it be shock proof for like falls and drops I would appreciate it. Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
        I've just finished one, have you considered a Dayton Audio KAB board? It has an optional extra where you plug in the battery board and apparently stops charging when it is full. It also can have a mounting bracket, volume.knobs and on off switch you can purchase.

        Depending on what you can get your hands on, some of the pressure pipes for water in Australia have internal wall thickness of between 5-10mm, so if lurking near a sub division, you may able to snag a free offcut. A very long time ago I looked for.a.PVC pipe called blue brute, which we wanted to make a bass Cannon for a car and we could screw the sub directly to the end. Very expensive if you have to buy one

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        • #5
          Originally posted by pilotkilo86 View Post
          Thanks for the reply. Do you have a better suggestion for a battery source to power everything instead of that one? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
          Since you already have this battery, I would test the battery life before exploring other options. It might be ok. I looked at some more pics of you battery, and it looks like you could wire a rocker switch between the battery output, and the amplifier. Then wire the battery charge jack to a panel mount D/C jack. The battery switch would have to be left in the "on" position.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Jake View Post
            Since you already have this battery, I would test the battery life before exploring other options. It might be ok. I looked at some more pics of you battery, and it looks like you could wire a rocker switch between the battery output, and the amplifier. Then wire the battery charge jack to a panel mount D/C jack. The battery switch would have to be left in the "on" position.
            What were to happen if I just undo the switch the battery already has and and extend the wires to it? Would that work ok? Thanks for the reply Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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            • #7
              I can't actually see a pic of any switch from that listing, but it will work in theory if you were able to panel mount it. I myself would want a more sturdy reliable switch. Part #060-670 is very small, and works well.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Jake View Post
                I can't actually see a pic of any switch from that listing, but it will work in theory if you were able to panel mount it. I myself would want a more sturdy reliable switch. Part #060-670 is very small, and works well.
                Ok great, I’ll try it out. Could you give me maybe an idea on a better battery source instead of that one?? I want something that will give power for several hours. Once again thanks for the reply it’s been a big help. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                • #9
                  I tested my non bluetooth tda7492 amplifier with a 12v 2a dry cell battery pack and I was pleasantly surprised. I was able to get sufficient output over an extended period, at moderate volume. I didnt run the batteries dead, but at least for a few hours. Test you battery before install, but I think it will be ok.

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                  • #10
                    Hi I've used several size versions of those batteries and they definitely discharge faster if the switch is left in the on position I got around that by designing my boombox to fit in a good looking little lunch bag and keeping the battery external via a 5.5mm jack, in the bag. Handy for a quick battery swap when one goes flat. I can use a charging brick also for indoors.

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                    • #11
                      If I believe the capacity rating of that battery pack (20,000 mAh or 20 Ah) it should be plenty. Note that a lead-acid car battery weighing maybe 40 to 50 lbs will have a capacity of about 80 Ah. If that's a typo and its really 2000 mAh, then its too small.

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