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Another Big Cheap Array - Holes, holes and more holes.

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  • #16
    Oh wow.

    I see the fostner bit for the tweeters but how did you make the holes for the woofers?
    Big fostner bit? I have a bit big enough to do the opening for the ND105 woofer, but I think that's the largest one I own.

    I like seeing this project unfold. I'm in the very beginning stages of an array as well; tiny compared to this, though. Cool!

    Man, you don't like to go home, do you? As in 'Go big or......'

    TomZ
    *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
    *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF *Cello's Speaker Project Page

    *Building the "Micro-B 2.1 Plate Amplifier -- Part 1 * Part 2 * Part 3 * Part 4 * * Part 5 'Review' * -- Assembly Instructions PDF

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    • #17
      Originally posted by tomzarbo View Post
      Oh wow.

      I see the fostner bit for the tweeters but how did you make the holes for the woofers?
      Big fostner bit? I have a bit big enough to do the opening for the ND105 woofer, but I think that's the largest one I own.

      I like seeing this project unfold. I'm in the very beginning stages of an array as well; tiny compared to this, though. Cool!

      Man, you don't like to go home, do you? As in 'Go big or......'

      TomZ
      I just used a plain 'ol (3-3/4") hole saw. The MDF quickly clogs the saw, so I had to pull it out and clear the teeth about 5 or 6 times for each hole.

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      • #18
        Speaker grills. Bartertown certified.

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        • #19
          We need an update!

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          • #20
            Yes, yes, an update would be great! Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

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            • #21
              Sorry for no updates - the project isn't dead. I've just been super busy with other commitments and haven't even had time to even step foot back in the garage. My main distraction is SCCA autocross. I'm a racer, on our region's Board of Directors, and do course design/setup. Add to that, this little thing called a "Job." ;)

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              • #22
                I saw in the first photo what appeared to be some healthy amps. If you don't care, a few questions.
                1. How much total RMS wattage will each speaker handle?
                2. What ohm rating will the speaker be?
                3. How much wattage are you going to feed them?
                4. What series/parallel configuration are you going to use?
                5. What gauge wire are you going to use between the woofers?
                6. And what gauge wire are you going to use from the amp to the speaker?

                I'm curios because I'm planning a line array myself and apparently this isnt your first rodeo.

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                • #23
                  Finally, some time for this project. I'm using every clamp I own.









                  I had a discouraging 'f up with the other baffle - Ouch!



                  I'm NOT going to re-cut this piece. I have it glued and clamped, hoping for the best. I'll let it dry overnight. It'll need some additional reinforcement, and probably some love with Bondo and sandpaper.



                  To answer a few of CPFriday's questions (sorry for being slow to reply.)

                  Each should handle about 350 watts, with an efficiency around 99 dB/W/M (assuming my math is correct.)

                  Mids will have an impedance of 4-ohms, and 4.5-ohms for the tweeters. To get the total impedance, you have to wire "banks" of speakers in series, and then wire those banks in parallel. For example, the tweeters are 6-ohms each. Each bank will have 6 tweeters in series for 36-ohms. 8 banks in parallel brings the impedance back to 4.5 ohms. This is one issue with arrays. If one speaker in a bank gets cooked, the whole bank goes dead.

                  The setup uses 3 amps.
                  An Adcom GFA 545II on the tweeters (say 150 WPC at 4.5 ohms)
                  A Crown XLS 1000 on the mids (350 WPS at 4 ohms.)
                  A Crown XLS 1500 on the bass bins (525 WPC at 4 ohms.)

                  No passive crossovers. It's all run through a Linux PC set up as as the DSP, with active cross-overs, EQ and other tweeks happening in the computer.

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                  • #24
                    From yesterday:

                    The broken baffle patched up nicely (what a relief.) There was some lost material on the back that I patched with body filler.


                    And I got the second box glued up. I'm waiting until I install mounts for the grill before gluing on the backs, and hitting the whole mess with a round-over bit. The light and cell phone camera make the right box look bent, but it's just a weird illusion. Everything is straight and parallel.



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                    • #25
                      [QUOTE=chad1376;n1405362]From yesterday:

                      The broken baffle patched up nicely (what a relief.)
                      I'm glad that was fixable, don't blame you for not redoing it, that's alot of work.

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                      • #26
                        More progress (and a candid pic of how cluttered my garage really is.)
                        - welded steel spacers to the grills
                        - T-nuts in the baffles to mount the grills
                        - Glued the backs on, cut holes for the terminals
                        - Halfway done with cleaning up joints - ran out of time for the weekend.

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                        • #27
                          This is a neat project, lots for work. Wish I could hear them when they’re done.

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                          • #28
                            Keep up the good work. Can't wait to see them finished, and for your opinion on how they sound.

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                            • #29
                              I'm hoping they are on par with the first version when they were fully functional. These aren't going to be the kind of speakers where you try to locate the third chair cello in the orchestra. What they should achieve is effortless SPL in a small footprint. Power split between all those drivers means each is seeing relatively little power. Very linear and tons of headroom.

                              I just discovered Dayton has a 4x8 DSP (I was already aware of the pricey MiniDSP 2x8). I'm considering abandoning my Linux based processing in favor of some added simplicity. The Linux setup, using Calf Audio plug-ins, is very powerful but dealing with Linux and all the setup is a big PITA. I only wish the Dayton DSP had optical digital in. I'm always fighting ground loop noise from the PC, and electrically isolating the signal would be nice.

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                              • #30
                                "The Big Bananas !"

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