What should be my subwoofer box thickness?

[Subnoob2002]

Im building my first subwoofer box for a 12' driver, which im going to use in my home theater. I was thinking about building it with with 1' mdf and 1' of padding, is this enough or is it too thin?
thank's in advance

[mga2009]

I've build my 15"s with 18mm MDF and the double in the baffle. I recon enough bracing counts for thicker walls.

These are sealed, so for the padding I just stuffed enough fiberglass wool so I would be packed yet not super tight.

For vented it seems 1" is good.

[Subnoob2002]

I've build my 15"s with 18mm MDF and the double in the baffle. I recon enough bracing counts for thicker walls.

These are sealed, so for the padding I just stuffed enough fiberglass wool so I would be packed yet not super tight.

For vented it seems 1" is good.

Great, thank you for the response

[djg]

James, your cooling vent link leads to a doctor list. Better get your USB port flushed out. James is a spambot. Gone whacko apparently.

To the OP, 3/4" with double thick baffle or blocks for added "meat" where the subwoofer screws are, should do it.

[fallbrookchris]

For subwoofer; 6.5"-10" I use 3/4 MDF for subs 12"-18" I use 1" for all 6 sides and either 1" or 3/4" front baffle, which either equals the thickness of the frame and surround of the sub. Make sure to router the face plate surrounding the subwoofer I Always use either hurricane nuts, 1/4"x20 part# 081-1084, x50 for only $7.45 plus machine screws or T-nut inserts 1/4"x20, x50 $7.45 part# 81-1090
There is also a package of 8 screw and 8 T-nuts part# 260-778 $3.59
I always buy the hurricane 14"-20 from PE and then get the 14"-20 hex screws from my local hardware store because there a lot cheaper. That way I have plenty for future subwoofer mounting projects.
I use the excess 3/4" MDF for other projects like tower and satellite speaker projects.
For mounting small speakers, mids and highs, I elect to use smaller screws and hurricane nuts. Regardless I always glue a piece of hard 1/4" wood behind each speaker mounting hole. #8 and #6 tend to fit flush in the speaker surrounds of mids and highs

If not using MDF to brace the box at least use front to back side to side with +1" round stoke...its strong and takes up less area in the box

I hope this information helps you and others who need to building strong, dense boxes with a very clean and solid speaker mounting technic