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Midwest Audio Fest

It’s that time audio enthusiasts!

Registration for the 2019 Speaker Design Competition is now open! Visit midwestaudiofest.com for details and to list your speaker project.
We are excited to see all returning participants, and look forward to meeting some new designers this year, as well!

Be sure your plans include a visit to the Parts Express Tent Sale for the lowest prices of the year, and the Audio Swap Meet where you can buy and trade with other audio fans.

We hope to see you this summer!

Vivian and Jill
2 of 2 < >

Midwest Audio Fest

It’s that time audio enthusiasts! Registration for the 2019 Speaker Design Competition is now open! Visit midwestaudiofest.com for details and to list your speaker project. We are excited to see all returning participants, and look forward to meeting some new designers this year, as well! Be sure your plans include a visit to the Parts Express Tent Sale for the lowest prices of the year, and the Audio Swap Meet where you can buy and trade with other audio fans. We hope to see you this summer! Vivian and Jill
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What should be my subwoofer box thickness?

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  • What should be my subwoofer box thickness?

    Im building my first subwoofer box for a 12' driver, which im going to use in my home theater. I was thinking about building it with with 1' mdf and 1' of padding, is this enough or is it too thin?
    thank's in advance

  • #2
    I've build my 15"s with 18mm MDF and the double in the baffle. I recon enough bracing counts for thicker walls.

    These are sealed, so for the padding I just stuffed enough fiberglass wool so I would be packed yet not super tight.

    For vented it seems 1" is good.



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    • #3
      Originally posted by mga2009 View Post
      I've build my 15"s with 18mm MDF and the double in the baffle. I recon enough bracing counts for thicker walls.

      These are sealed, so for the padding I just stuffed enough fiberglass wool so I would be packed yet not super tight.

      For vented it seems 1" is good.



      Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20181102_001521.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	806.6 KB
ID:	1401315Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20181102_001517.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	675.3 KB
ID:	1401316
      Great, thank you for the response

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      • #4
        James, your cooling vent link leads to a doctor list. Better get your USB port flushed out. James is a spambot. Gone whacko apparently.

        To the OP, 3/4" with double thick baffle or blocks for added "meat" where the subwoofer screws are, should do it.

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        • #5
          For subwoofer; 6.5"-10" I use 3/4 MDF for subs 12"-18" I use 1" for all 6 sides and either 1" or 3/4" front baffle, which either equals the thickness of the frame and surround of the sub. Make sure to router the face plate surrounding the subwoofer I Always use either hurricane nuts, 1/4"x20 part# 081-1084, x50 for only $7.45 plus machine screws or T-nut inserts 1/4"x20, x50 $7.45 part# 81-1090
          There is also a package of 8 screw and 8 T-nuts part# 260-778 $3.59
          I always buy the hurricane 14"-20 from PE and then get the 14"-20 hex screws from my local hardware store because there a lot cheaper. That way I have plenty for future subwoofer mounting projects.
          I use the excess 3/4" MDF for other projects like tower and satellite speaker projects.
          For mounting small speakers, mids and highs, I elect to use smaller screws and hurricane nuts. Regardless I always glue a piece of hard 1/4" wood behind each speaker mounting hole. #8 and #6 tend to fit flush in the speaker surrounds of mids and highs

          If not using MDF to brace the box at least use front to back side to side with +1" round stoke...its strong and takes up less area in the box

          I hope this information helps you and others who need to building strong, dense boxes with a very clean and solid speaker mounting technic


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