Classix 2.5 build finished

[Jakes_dad]

Well, they are mostly finished. I still need to make up some spikes or short stands.

They took me a little over 6 months to build, but that's because I mixed in a cross country move right in the middle of it.

The baffles are walnut with a couple of strips of maple mixed in, because everything is better with racing stripes.

A few pictures:

[Chris Roemer]

Those look like fun! Hope you enjoy 'em.

[Jakes_dad]

Those look like fun! Hope you enjoy 'em.

I am enjoying them so far!

I don't know if you remember, but way back when I started these you helped me out with the crossover layout.

Thanks again for your help with that.

Richard

[3rutu5]

I like them, nice work.

[Geoff Millar]

Look great, how do you like the sound?

And how did you route the drivers so well on the hardwood, really well done.

Thanks

Geoff

[Jakes_dad]

I like them, nice work.

Thank you.

[Jakes_dad]

Look great, how do you like the sound?

And how did you route the drivers so well on the hardwood, really well done.

Thanks

Geoff

I like the sound a lot, they are a huge upgrade over my DCM Timepiece bookshelves from the early 90s.

I purchased a Jasper jig for my router and used a brand new spiral downcutting bit. From my research, upcutting bits are better for clearing the chips out, but downcutting is less prone to tear-outs. I just made sure I always went clockwise and only left a little bit of material for the final pass.

I am a novice woodworker, so don't take my method for routing the driver holes as gospel, but it worked well for me.

Thanks,

Richard

[Jake]

Nice work dad! The maple pops. Enjoy!

[Geoff Millar]

I like the sound a lot, they are a huge upgrade over my DCM Timepiece bookshelves from the early 90s.

I purchased a Jasper jig for my router and used a brand new spiral downcutting bit. From my research, upcutting bits are better for clearing the chips out, but downcutting is less prone to tear-outs. I just made sure I always went clockwise and only left a little bit of material for the final pass.

I am a novice woodworker, so don't take my method for routing the driver holes as gospel, but it worked well for me.

Thanks,

Richard

Thanks, those techniques certainly worked for you. For some reason in Oz, router bits are just 'router bits' and none are labelled as 'up' or 'down' cutting bits. When I asked at Bunnings they looked at me as though I was from Mars, so I'll have a look online.

I'm sure my 2.5s won't look as good as yours - but hopefully they will sound great!

Geoff

[Chris Roemer]

I don't think a straight bit has an up or down, but "spiral" bits do.

[Jakes_dad]

Nice work dad! The maple pops. Enjoy!

Thanks son!

The baffles turned out even better than I hoped.

I guess it's true that even a blind squirrel finds a nut once in a while...

[Jakes_dad]

Thanks, those techniques certainly worked for you. For some reason in Oz, router bits are just 'router bits' and none are labelled as 'up' or 'down' cutting bits. When I asked at Bunnings they looked at me as though I was from Mars, so I'll have a look online.

I'm sure my 2.5s won't look as good as yours - but hopefully they will sound great!

Geoff

I looked on the Bunnings website and they just had straight cut bits.

This is the one I used, you can probably search and find one online:

[Geoff Millar]

Thank you, will check it out

Geoff

[Carbon13]

WOW! Those are beautiful! Love the "Classix" racing stripes!! I recall reading somewhere that Mr. Carmody has a particular fondness for white speakers ;)