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CNC cut 8" mini subwoofer - DCS205-4

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  • CNC cut 8" mini subwoofer - DCS205-4

    For 25 years I had a JL Audio 8W1-4 in a ported enclosure that became my go-to sub for just about anything. Thrown together on a whim with scrap wood it served garage duty, was loaned out to many friends, used as a small travel sub, etc. Well used and abused - it quickly earned a reputation for always doing its job when asked. Sadly about a year ago, I gave it to a friend for his garage and missed it ever since.

    I came across the DCS205-4 sometime ago and immediately recognized the specs as a slightly better replacement for the good ol’ 8W1-4 for when the time came. With the recent completion of my brothers CNC router table, it was time to build another ‘beater’ sub and give CNC kit building a try.

    Playing in WinISD, I settled on a 0.8 cuft box tuned to about 34Hz. Online port length calculators suggested a port length just over 8”, so with the flares adding to the equation I rounded up to 9” and called it good. After adding in the volume of the port, speaker and a little extra for bracing, the final external dimensions (using ¾” MDF) came out to be 15.75” x 14.75” x 9.25”.

    These dimensions were used to build a 3D model in Fusion 360, then the parts from that model used to create the G-code for the CNC router. Although the entire thing can be cut manually from a single piece of 2’x4’ MDF, the CNC router required extra space around the parts requiring an extra piece of MDF.

    Assembling the enclosure was dead simple. First the port tube is cut to length and glued into the supports with the ends flush to the outside face of the supports. The inner flare is then attached to one of the port supports, then that assembly is attached to one wall. The back is attached to that, followed by the other side, the braces and the front baffle. Finally, the top and bottom pieces are attached. The whole thing went together with all seams sealed airtight using only wood glue and screws.

    It plays very smoothly and incredibly punchy for its size, but will start to drop off below 28Hz. That said, from 30Hz on up it will bring the goods. The little thing hits harder than you would think and has impressed me since I first hooked it up. Not only does it go slightly lower than the one it replaced, but its higher sensitivity doesn’t require me to bump up the gain on my sub amp when I need a small sub in the van to save room.

  • #2
    That's pretty cool, and I'm guessing that with CNC cut pieces everything fitted together smoothly.

    I used the DCS205 driver in one of my builds - see and my thread on the build here. It's a really nice driver for the price. Just make sure you chamfer out the back of the speaker baffle where the driver's terminals are, as if the baffle is thick, the terminals get pressed in, and this can result in the wires coming loose and falling out.
    Brian Steele


    • #3
      Yup. The pieces went together as smooth as buttah. As much as I love spending a couple hours with a tablesaw, pencil and tape measure, it was a welcome change of pace.

      Oh yeah, I am very aware of your Boom Unit. I ALMOST made your version instead of this one. What it came down to was testing the viability of CNC cut flares for the port.

      When I disassemble the speaker for final finishing, I'll double check the clearance on the input posts. Thanks for the tip!


      • #4
        Oh yes, I too have many fond memories of the old w0, w1, and w3 series.


        • #5
          cool project!! Wish I had a CNC. Looks so exact.

          I used the same sub in a prior project -- my goal was to be as cheap as possible. My port was also 2" x about 9"