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  • Continuum build

    The beginnings, NOS tweeters, PSA cherry veneer, solid cherry trim, baffles and rear panels, 1/4" and 1/2" MDF. William Schneider I am not.


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  • #2
    My plan is to mimic this look. Click image for larger version

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    • #3
      looking good!

      let me know if you want to build an extra flat-pack / knock-down set of enclosures -- I will happily pay for them + labor + shipping!

      I have all the parts for a set of continuums but not the expertise for a pretty build like that. I'm getting pretty good at veneer work, however.



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      • #4
        The screw on baffle and rear panel require cleats to screw to. The particular location of the screws is leading me to a 2 layer construction of the basic top sides and bottom, mostly so I don't have to do extensive routing of hateful MDF. It may get complicated (for my skill level). You may have to settle for pictures.

        A more traditional solid wood look Continuum would be easier. Tyger23's build.


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        Last edited by djg; 06-18-2020, 10:54 AM.

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        • #5
          AC130 woofers BO again "til mid July. I'm "on the list".

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          • #6
            I’ve never heard the continuum’s and I’m sure they sound fantastic as Jeff designed them. But every time I see pictures my woodworkers OCD kicks in over all the ugly screw heads on the baffle. Is it just me? My woodworking journey started off with furniture and I’ve always taken the approach that fasteners should be out of sight whenever possible. Really not trying to criticize anyone’s work, but I could never enjoy listening to them as I’d be staring at those screw heads thinking about how to make them go away. It pains me when I see an otherwise beautiful build with a nice hardwood baffle marred by a bunch of ugly screws. Anyone else bothered by this or am I just being ridiculous? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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            • djg
              djg commented
              Editing a comment
              It's "tradition". The solid maple cabinet of the original Continuum copied the look of the British BBC speakers. Good news: You can build yours however you wish.

              Check these out. I knew i couldn't approach this level of perfection, so I looked for another style that still has the signature screwed on baffles, found the Harbeth.

              http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...uums-subwoofer

          • #7
            Originally posted by jtheisen521 View Post
            I’ve never heard the continuum’s and I’m sure they sound fantastic as Jeff designed them. But every time I see pictures my woodworkers OCD kicks in over all the ugly screw heads on the baffle. Is it just me? My woodworking journey started off with furniture and I’ve always taken the approach that fasteners should be out of sight whenever possible. Really not trying to criticize anyone’s work, but I could never enjoy listening to them as I’d be staring at those screw heads thinking about how to make them go away. It pains me when I see an otherwise beautiful build with a nice hardwood baffle marred by a bunch of ugly screws. Anyone else bothered by this or am I just being ridiculous? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
            It's not just you. I don't like the look of all those fasteners either. This is a picture of a project I just completed and I think the four cap head screws holding my baffle on is too much
            Attached Files
            Craig

            The lowest possible F3 box alignment is not always the best alignment.

            Designing and building speaker projects are like playing with adult Lego Blocks for me.

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            • #8
              I like to look of the inset baffle but I agree....to many screws.

              I wonder how hard it would be to put threaded inserts in the back of the baffle and cleats on the inside and screw the baffle on from "inside " the cabinet. If that makes sense.

              Nice looking speakers PWR RYD..what project are those ? I don't think those cap screws are to much there. Nice

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              • #9
                Originally posted by Mike Burke View Post
                I like to look of the inset baffle but I agree....to many screws.

                I wonder how hard it would be to put threaded inserts in the back of the baffle and cleats on the inside and screw the baffle on from "inside " the cabinet. If that makes sense.
                Not that hard - just takes a little planning. Either a removable back to reach the internal fasteners or reach through the woofer hole, provided the woofer doesn't rear mount! I'm working on a project right now that is attaching the baffle just like this.

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                • #10
                  Originally posted by Mike Burke View Post

                  Nice looking speakers PWR RYD..what project are those ? I don't think those cap screws are to much there. Nice
                  Thanks Mike. They are called the "Drabants". I haven't done a write up on them as I just finished voicing them this week. Unfortunately they use the NLA RS28A tweeters.
                  Craig

                  The lowest possible F3 box alignment is not always the best alignment.

                  Designing and building speaker projects are like playing with adult Lego Blocks for me.

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                  • #11
                    Nice project. Nice lawn, corner lot yeah.

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                    • #12
                      I made these a while ago, Quarks to look like Continuums. I actually bought some #2 black screws to add for cosmetics, but never put them in. Seemed like multiple chances to screw up a nice project.



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                      • #13
                        Nice djg !!
                        what was your process you used for the inset baffles ?
                        looks like veneer...is that right ?

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                        • djg
                          djg commented
                          Editing a comment
                          The baffle is solid maple, woofer glued in. The rest is PSA veneer over particle board. More info in Jeff Bagby's Quark thread.

                      • #14
                        Cab sides constructed with double sided floor tile tape.

                        Next glue the cabs together minus the 1/2" MDF pieces for tops and bottoms, then cut and fit them.

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                        • #15
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