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Candidates for New DIY Build - Floorstanding for Music & HT

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  • #46
    Now that the cabinets are done, other than finish, it is time to install the drivers. I went around the edges of the baffle, in the rabbets, and put a little band of diluted black acrylic craft paint, just to be certain nothing would show after the drivers were installed. After that, it was just a matter of soldering everything up with WBT silver solder. I focused on trying to not overheat anything, just what was necessary to get melt and good flow between the tabs and the wire. I used some electrical tape to hold the wire in place on the tweeters while I did the job. On some of the drivers I utilized the small holes on the tabs to hold the wire in place, this worked really well for me! The tolerances were extremely tight on the woofers as far as the hole size in the baffle. What worked for me, besides some light sanding of course, was a small amount of Johnson's Paste Wax around the edge to make the driver snick in the hole more smoothly.

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    • #47
      For the finish on the veneer, I chose to use Tried and True original wood finish. This is a blend of linseed oil & beeswax that is polymerized, I like how easy it is to work with and the way it makes the grain pop on wood. It is a non-toxic formula and it dries pretty fast to the touch, if you follow the directions and use super light coats. It does take a long time to fully cure, but you can bring it in the house and even use them while it continues to cure for what seems like weeks. The smell is pretty faint after the first couple days and not bad at all. Basically, you sand progressively down to 400 grit, then 0000 steel wool, wipe on a thin coat, dry for a day, burnish with 0000 steel wool, repeat until you are satisfied. It leaves the wood sealed but not plasticized like Urethane, so it feels and looks like real wood.

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      • djg
        djg commented
        Editing a comment
        Very nice work.

    • #48
      Photo gallery of completed speakers.

      Stay tuned, I am working on a plinth with outriggers to set the speakers on. Once I get the plinth done, break them in and dial in the speakers to the room, I will give a report with some listening impressions!

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      • Steve Lee
        Steve Lee commented
        Editing a comment
        Exquisite!

    • #49
      Excellent work on some very high end speakers. I love your build log, well done!
      Electronics engineer, woofer enthusiast, and musician.
      Wogg Music
      Published projects: PPA100 Bass Guitar Amp, ISO El-Cheapo Sub, Indy 8 2.1 powered sub, MicroSat, SuperNova Minimus

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      • #50
        I really like the finished look of that veneer, nice work! They look fantastic!

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        • #51
          Here is the write-up for my plinth build!

          I decided to go the plinth way vs. attaching the spikes directly to the speakers for a couple of reasons. 1. These are fairly big and heavy (70 lbs each) speakers and moving speakers like that with big spikes attached is difficult, much easier to put the plinth exactly where you want it, I am one of those guys who uses measurements to place speakers, then put the heavy speaker on top! 2. I have read a lot about isolation and done some of my own research through trial and error and I think spikes to the concrete to get through the carpet, but then ISOLATE the speaker using Sorbothane from the plinth itself. 3. This was not an easy routing job to make the outriggers recessed like this, and I wanted them recessed as they are a 1 bolt connection, and I didn't want to risk messing up the 'perfect' speakers I just spent 2 month building! 4. I could make the plinth wider than the speakers to get even more stability. 5. Gee whiz...how many reasons does a guy need?!?!

          I purchased a set of corner outriggers from 3MA Highend Audio in Texas. They were some overstock they had on hand for a project that fell through or something like that, they were hand made in Texas by Tate at Custom Isolation.net. I talked to both Tate and also Luis down at 3MA, both super guys who deal in super high end gear.

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          I drew the pattern for the cut out on the board, then realized I did not want to draw that 8 times, so I used a sheet of paper to trace it on. After that, I used a scratch awl and a tack hammer to mark 6 reference points on the corner of each board by tapping through the paper. With those points, I could quickly draw the lines using a ruler and pencil. After that, I used my square jig that I build for the tweeter cutouts and went to town with my Porter Cable router. I just did one pass at 1/4" using a Freud 1/4" straight bit, from there I just had to use a chisel and sand paper to get the sizing exact.

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          I used ExoHyde for the finish, except for the cutouts where I used a solution of water, Titebond 2, and black acrylic craft paint. I wanted to seal those areas and paint them flat black without adding much if any thickness as I had them cut to fit exact. In short...it worked with just a little bit of sanding and some Johnson's Paste Wax! I thought the powder coat on the outriggers matches the ExoHyde really well, if you don't look super critically in bright light it looks essentially the same.

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          • #52
            I used my drill press on my Shopsmith to drill holes in the cutouts for the threaded inserts. This was very useful as it allowed me to set a depth stop that is very accurate, ensure straight cuts, and I set my fence up to help get exact alignment. If the alignment was off the bolts would not go through the outriggers and into the wood, I managed to get them all within spec. The system uses 6mm bolts with a Phillips head and a washer. I lined the hole with Titebond 3 before I threaded in the inserts to help them grab a bit more. See detail picture below.

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            For the Sorbothane I used this stuff: Sorbothane X-Tra Flex Acoustic Vibration Damping Sheet 3/16 x 12 x 14in 50D. Consequently, I built the plinth to be the exact same size as the sheet and just set it on top of it with the speaker on top of that. I considered the semi-spheres, but I did not want to add any more height than necessary and I felt like this gives me a very stable solution. Is it the exact right amount of Sorbothane for the weight of the speakers, blah, blah, probably not but I was okay with that for the sleek solution that met my design goals. I think it will work wonderfully!

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            • #53
              Beautiful speakers and really nice looking plinths/outriggers.
              Great look.
              Andy

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