Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Candidates for New DIY Build - Floorstanding for Music & HT

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • andykriech
    replied
    Beautiful speakers and really nice looking plinths/outriggers.
    Great look.
    Andy

    Leave a comment:


  • JazzyG
    replied
    I used my drill press on my Shopsmith to drill holes in the cutouts for the threaded inserts. This was very useful as it allowed me to set a depth stop that is very accurate, ensure straight cuts, and I set my fence up to help get exact alignment. If the alignment was off the bolts would not go through the outriggers and into the wood, I managed to get them all within spec. The system uses 6mm bolts with a Phillips head and a washer. I lined the hole with Titebond 3 before I threaded in the inserts to help them grab a bit more. See detail picture below.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	20210107_142723.jpg Views:	0 Size:	529.2 KB ID:	1461557 Click image for larger version  Name:	20210107_142544.jpg Views:	0 Size:	764.8 KB ID:	1461561

    For the Sorbothane I used this stuff: Sorbothane X-Tra Flex Acoustic Vibration Damping Sheet 3/16 x 12 x 14in 50D. Consequently, I built the plinth to be the exact same size as the sheet and just set it on top of it with the speaker on top of that. I considered the semi-spheres, but I did not want to add any more height than necessary and I felt like this gives me a very stable solution. Is it the exact right amount of Sorbothane for the weight of the speakers, blah, blah, probably not but I was okay with that for the sleek solution that met my design goals. I think it will work wonderfully!

    Click image for larger version  Name:	20210108_174245.jpg Views:	0 Size:	903.9 KB ID:	1461558
    Click image for larger version  Name:	20210111_111150.jpg Views:	0 Size:	790.6 KB ID:	1461555 Click image for larger version  Name:	20210111_111213.jpg Views:	0 Size:	757.3 KB ID:	1461556

    Leave a comment:


  • JazzyG
    replied
    Here is the write-up for my plinth build!

    I decided to go the plinth way vs. attaching the spikes directly to the speakers for a couple of reasons. 1. These are fairly big and heavy (70 lbs each) speakers and moving speakers like that with big spikes attached is difficult, much easier to put the plinth exactly where you want it, I am one of those guys who uses measurements to place speakers, then put the heavy speaker on top! 2. I have read a lot about isolation and done some of my own research through trial and error and I think spikes to the concrete to get through the carpet, but then ISOLATE the speaker using Sorbothane from the plinth itself. 3. This was not an easy routing job to make the outriggers recessed like this, and I wanted them recessed as they are a 1 bolt connection, and I didn't want to risk messing up the 'perfect' speakers I just spent 2 month building! 4. I could make the plinth wider than the speakers to get even more stability. 5. Gee whiz...how many reasons does a guy need?!?!

    I purchased a set of corner outriggers from 3MA Highend Audio in Texas. They were some overstock they had on hand for a project that fell through or something like that, they were hand made in Texas by Tate at Custom Isolation.net. I talked to both Tate and also Luis down at 3MA, both super guys who deal in super high end gear.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	20210107_142708.jpg Views:	0 Size:	583.8 KB ID:	1461560

    I drew the pattern for the cut out on the board, then realized I did not want to draw that 8 times, so I used a sheet of paper to trace it on. After that, I used a scratch awl and a tack hammer to mark 6 reference points on the corner of each board by tapping through the paper. With those points, I could quickly draw the lines using a ruler and pencil. After that, I used my square jig that I build for the tweeter cutouts and went to town with my Porter Cable router. I just did one pass at 1/4" using a Freud 1/4" straight bit, from there I just had to use a chisel and sand paper to get the sizing exact.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	image_89391.jpg Views:	5 Size:	700.8 KB ID:	1461549 Click image for larger version  Name:	image_89392.jpg Views:	6 Size:	615.2 KB ID:	1461550

    I used ExoHyde for the finish, except for the cutouts where I used a solution of water, Titebond 2, and black acrylic craft paint. I wanted to seal those areas and paint them flat black without adding much if any thickness as I had them cut to fit exact. In short...it worked with just a little bit of sanding and some Johnson's Paste Wax! I thought the powder coat on the outriggers matches the ExoHyde really well, if you don't look super critically in bright light it looks essentially the same.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	20210105_174911.jpg Views:	0 Size:	439.3 KB ID:	1461551
    Click image for larger version  Name:	20210107_142458.jpg Views:	0 Size:	967.0 KB ID:	1461552

    Leave a comment:


  • unclejunebug
    replied
    I really like the finished look of that veneer, nice work! They look fantastic!

    Leave a comment:


  • wogg
    replied
    Excellent work on some very high end speakers. I love your build log, well done!

    Leave a comment:


  • Steve Lee
    commented on 's reply
    Exquisite!

  • JazzyG
    replied
    Photo gallery of completed speakers.

    Stay tuned, I am working on a plinth with outriggers to set the speakers on. Once I get the plinth done, break them in and dial in the speakers to the room, I will give a report with some listening impressions!

    Click image for larger version

Name:	Gallery (1).jpg
Views:	305
Size:	505.8 KB
ID:	1460976 Click image for larger version

Name:	Gallery (2).jpg
Views:	288
Size:	717.5 KB
ID:	1460977 Click image for larger version

Name:	Gallery (3).jpg
Views:	292
Size:	605.9 KB
ID:	1460978 Click image for larger version

Name:	Gallery (4).jpg
Views:	285
Size:	649.4 KB
ID:	1460979
    Click image for larger version

Name:	Gallery (5).jpg
Views:	297
Size:	390.4 KB
ID:	1460980

    Leave a comment:


  • djg
    commented on 's reply
    Very nice work.

  • JazzyG
    replied
    For the finish on the veneer, I chose to use Tried and True original wood finish. This is a blend of linseed oil & beeswax that is polymerized, I like how easy it is to work with and the way it makes the grain pop on wood. It is a non-toxic formula and it dries pretty fast to the touch, if you follow the directions and use super light coats. It does take a long time to fully cure, but you can bring it in the house and even use them while it continues to cure for what seems like weeks. The smell is pretty faint after the first couple days and not bad at all. Basically, you sand progressively down to 400 grit, then 0000 steel wool, wipe on a thin coat, dry for a day, burnish with 0000 steel wool, repeat until you are satisfied. It leaves the wood sealed but not plasticized like Urethane, so it feels and looks like real wood.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	20201229_130028.jpg
Views:	291
Size:	572.5 KB
ID:	1460967 Click image for larger version

Name:	20201229_173313.jpg
Views:	281
Size:	663.5 KB
ID:	1460969
    Click image for larger version

Name:	20201229_130039.jpg
Views:	276
Size:	406.4 KB
ID:	1460968 Click image for larger version

Name:	20201229_173327 CROP.jpg
Views:	280
Size:	316.7 KB
ID:	1460971 Click image for larger version

Name:	20201229_173334.jpg
Views:	282
Size:	528.2 KB
ID:	1460970

    Leave a comment:


  • JazzyG
    replied
    Now that the cabinets are done, other than finish, it is time to install the drivers. I went around the edges of the baffle, in the rabbets, and put a little band of diluted black acrylic craft paint, just to be certain nothing would show after the drivers were installed. After that, it was just a matter of soldering everything up with WBT silver solder. I focused on trying to not overheat anything, just what was necessary to get melt and good flow between the tabs and the wire. I used some electrical tape to hold the wire in place on the tweeters while I did the job. On some of the drivers I utilized the small holes on the tabs to hold the wire in place, this worked really well for me! The tolerances were extremely tight on the woofers as far as the hole size in the baffle. What worked for me, besides some light sanding of course, was a small amount of Johnson's Paste Wax around the edge to make the driver snick in the hole more smoothly.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	20201227_181729 CROP.jpg
Views:	284
Size:	433.2 KB
ID:	1460959 Click image for larger version

Name:	20201227_164200 CROP.jpg
Views:	298
Size:	645.5 KB
ID:	1460958 Click image for larger version

Name:	20201228_140847 CROP.jpg
Views:	288
Size:	637.0 KB
ID:	1460960
    Click image for larger version

Name:	20201228_150749 CROP.jpg
Views:	286
Size:	464.3 KB
ID:	1460961 Click image for larger version

Name:	20201228_140239.jpg
Views:	291
Size:	729.8 KB
ID:	1460962

    Leave a comment:


  • djg
    commented on 's reply
    I use the PSA veneer a lot. More time spent cleaning the bit than anything else. I generally do about 1/2" extra, but I never did a tower like yours. One chance to get the veneer on straight.
    Nice job

    My PSA veneer jobs have lasted years, if you're worried about durability.

  • JazzyG
    replied
    Once the baffles and Urethane on the sides of the cabinets had fully cured, I moved on to the veneer. I used veneer with the 3M PSA glue backing as it is easy to work with and it sticks really well. It is important to press really hard on the veneer after application to ensure a good bond, I used the edge of a board I had slightly rounded with sand paper to apply pressure. It is easy to mess up an edge by pressing right where extra veneer extends over the edge, so watch for that if you use this stuff. I used my smaller Porter Cable - Model 100 router with a Freud edge trim bit, fitted with a bearing, to get a nice clean trim all the way round.

    A couple of things I learned, the PSA glue will stick to your router bit and bearing, so I had to stop and clean it off after every couple cuts. I found that if I had a lot less excess to cut off, a few mm's vs. an inch, it was less of a problem. I left a bit too much extra, about 1" all the way around each piece, to be safe. However, that also means that the grain match going from left to top to right side doesn't flow all the way around, I only got grain match on 1 of the 2 transitions as I left just a bit too much extra to be safe. The reason you leave extra is that if you get started a bit off on one edge, by the time you get to the other edge you can run out of veneer and then you are pretty much SOL. A bit of a tradeoff on how accurate you think you can cut and adhere everything, get it as close as you can without leaving yourself short! The good news is, I had just enough to complete the project, hardly any waste, and the wood looks great even if you don't get full grain wrap.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	20201226_135651.jpg Views:	0 Size:	839.3 KB ID:	1460627 Click image for larger version  Name:	20201226_135703.jpg Views:	0 Size:	792.0 KB ID:	1460628 Click image for larger version  Name:	20201226_150011.jpg Views:	0 Size:	652.6 KB ID:	1460629
    Click image for larger version  Name:	20201226_162924 CROP.jpg Views:	0 Size:	340.2 KB ID:	1460630 Click image for larger version  Name:	20201226_164526.jpg Views:	0 Size:	590.0 KB ID:	1460631

    Leave a comment:


  • JazzyG
    replied
    After sanding and putty to get the baffles squared up with the rest of the cabinet, it was time for painting the baffles! I chose to use ExoHyde textured black paint which is available from Parts Express. I found the ExoHyde to be very easy to work with, it goes on nicely with minimal surface prep (sanding with coarser paper), dries fast, and is extremely durable from what I can tell. You can get some different effects using this paint, depending on how you apply it. I wanted to get a finer, lower crinkle, look so I let it dry slightly and then went over it again with the roller w/o adding more paint to it. This got an almost powder coated look, a bit coarser than that, but that kind of look. I started doing it indoors, the VOC content is pretty low, but decided to move it outside as it was a sunny day and my test board was drying much faster in the sun than my project was inside. The direct sunlight made a big difference as I was able to more easily see the results as I went and know that I wasn't missing any spots. I bought a gallon as it is a lot less expensive per quart, but most projects will probably only need the quart size. I will try to find some other uses for it though, I think it could be used in a lot of different woodworking applications. Overall, I am very pleased with how the baffles turned out!

    Click image for larger version  Name:	20201222_120735 CROP.jpg Views:	0 Size:	446.7 KB ID:	1460616 Click image for larger version  Name:	20201222_120846 CROP.jpg Views:	0 Size:	235.7 KB ID:	1460617
    Click image for larger version  Name:	20201223_190011 CROP.jpg Views:	0 Size:	416.1 KB ID:	1460618

    Leave a comment:


  • JazzyG
    replied
    The next step was to get the ports put together. The kit came with a long tube that needed to be cut into shorter pieces and attached to the inner/outer flanges using connecting rings and hot glue. Cutting the long tube was the tricky part, if you have ever cut a piece of PVC pipe and tried to get an exact length and smooth even edges then you know what I mean. I came up with an idea using the band saw on my Shopsmith! I clamped a board down as a 'fence' at the exact measurement I needed, then push the tube through the blade, rolling it through didn't work as well. Luckily, the kit came with plenty of tubing, so I was able to do better on my 3rd attempt. I used a sanding block for final truing of the length and to even everything up, I know port length is very important to the tuning of the bass...so measured it super close. I glued it all together using this black hot melt glue from PE and it worked awesome, was so glad to find it in black as it makes the port look so much better. I did wrap the outside joints with black electrical tape to ensure a tight seal, that part was not pictured.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	20201220_143853 Crop.jpg Views:	0 Size:	453.8 KB ID:	1460207 Click image for larger version  Name:	20201220_143902 CROP.jpg Views:	0 Size:	364.1 KB ID:	1460208
    Click image for larger version  Name:	20201220_170244.jpg Views:	0 Size:	591.1 KB ID:	1460209 Click image for larger version

Name:	20201220_170336 CROP.jpg
Views:	184
Size:	463.3 KB
ID:	1460212
    Click image for larger version

Name:	image_89089.jpg
Views:	185
Size:	621.9 KB
ID:	1460210

    Leave a comment:


  • Steve Lee
    commented on 's reply
    Here is another tip for you when crimping your wire with Sta-Cons, Jazzy:

    Make sure you orient the curved part of the crimping tool surface with the center of the open/joining portion of the crimp connector. (This action keeps the crimp from opening-up/splaying).

    Look inside the barrel of the connector and rotate it so that you align these mating parts as suggested and you will have no further frustrations concerning either of them.
Working...
X