Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Pencil Tower

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • ani_101
    replied
    thanks John

    I have used this a few times now. The penguins have a similar finish on the oak baffles, but i used transtint dye.

    Leave a comment:


  • jhollander
    replied
    Sorry to resurrect this old thread but I had a question about the finish and my post with the write up is now blank. Here is the updated finish write up

    The wood is red oak with a red dye. The dye is RIT Scarlet red. This is the same stuff you tie dye t-shirts with. It’s cheap and works.

    The oak pores or “grain” is filled with black tinted filler. I used oil-based filler as most paint stores can tint that. The top coat is Lacquer (do not use the brush-on kind)

    These are the steps for dye and filler. I highly recommend you practice this technique on scrap first.

    After assembly wash down the outside of the cabinet with water. You want the cabinet nice and wet. Use this opportunity to find any glue that you missed wiping off. Towel dry the cabinet and let dry.
    The grain is going to raise up.

    Clean the wood surface and pores with compressed air and a brass wire brush (in the direction of the grain). Sand everything flat. Don’t go any finer than 220 grit sandpaper. Use sanding blocks to keep the surface flat.

    Mix up the dye to the shade you like with hot water. Make up about gallon. Apply to the dye to everything with foam brush. Keep the surfaces evenly wet/ moist for about 30 minutes. Let it dry for a day or more. After the dye cools off, I keep it in a gallon milk jug. Wipe/ rub the cabinets with a cloth. Any excess dye will come off as a powder. If the grain has risen up again sand with 220.
    Don’t worry about burning through the dye, just re-dye. Pour some dye into a glass measuring cup and heat it back up in the microwave (don’t boil) and coat the bare spots. You will use this re-dying process every time you burn through the dye.

    After the dye, apply two coats of Zinser Sealcoat with a foam roller. The cabinet should look pretty good now. You could steel wool/ 3M pad/ Wax and walk away at this point.

    Filler; follow the instructions on the can and fill the pores. I like using a cheap squeegee. I also prefer to apply a second coat of filler the next day. The cabinets will look like crap now. Let the filler dry for several days. Use 000 steel wool or 3M pads to get most of the filler off. Block sand the filler flat. You may use up an entire pack of 220 grit sandpaper. You may burn through the dye again. At some point you end up painting on the dye.

    After the filler I prefer two more coats of Zinser Seal coat. I use a 3M buff pad between coats and 400 grit sandpaper for any nubs before the top coat.

    The Lacquer top coat is thinned and sprayed with a HVLP gun from Harbor Freight. The speakers got two coats with 3M pad sanding between the coats. The finish was not wet sanded or rubbed out.

    If you like the grain filling idea Google ceruse finish and check out the guitars.

    Leave a comment:


  • jhollander
    replied
    Re: Pencil Tower

    Originally posted by ani_101 View Post
    Could you kindly specify what wood filler you used and from which store.
    For this project I used Benjamin Moore wood grain filler #238. This is available at paint stores that carry Benjamin Moore. Ask them to tint black, they may add some Japan drier as they have to add a lot of tint.

    If you are testing, sealing the wood before filling the pores is really helpful.

    As an alternative, while this does not work with black stain, grain filling with drywall compound works very well. You would just need to find a complementary stain for the drywall compound. Again black stain plus drywall compound turns out gray.

    Leave a comment:


  • jhollander
    replied
    Re: Pencil Tower

    Originally posted by tomzarbo View Post
    I suspect we'll talk some more at next year's 2013 MWAF!
    TomZ
    Tom, of course I remember you, and I'm glad your speakers were finally recognized. If your wife comes next year let us know as my wife is looking for an alternative to the 15th speaker playing the same 3 tracks…

    Leave a comment:


  • ani_101
    replied
    Re: Pencil Tower

    hi john

    thanks for the details steps on the finish. Could you kindly specify what wood filler you used and from which store. I wanted to try out on a few scraps of wood, but couldn't get any suitable wood filler for pores/grains - most seem to be for filling in large holes, cracks, etc. No go on the tinting too...

    any brands / shops?

    Thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • tomzarbo
    replied
    Re: Pencil Tower

    Hey John,
    Those were great sounding speakers, and awesome looking... the finish was outstanding. I've always loved oak, but I've never seen it finished like that.
    It was nice talking to you and your wife at the MWAF. (I was the really tall guy with the really short wife sitting a row behind you)
    I suspect we'll talk some more at next year's 2013 MWAF!
    TomZ

    Leave a comment:


  • Double_J
    replied
    Re: Pencil Tower

    thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • jhollander
    replied
    Re: Pencil Tower

    Click image for larger version

Name:	PT side.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	45.6 KB
ID:	1143135Click image for larger version

Name:	PT details.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	43.5 KB
ID:	1143136Click image for larger version

Name:	PT elevation.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	66.2 KB
ID:	1143137Click image for larger version

Name:	PT F baffle.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	60.2 KB
ID:	1143138Click image for larger version

Name:	PT R baffle.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	49.1 KB
ID:	1143139

    Here are the pictures/ drawings

    Leave a comment:


  • mzisserson
    replied
    Re: Pencil Tower

    I like how you mounted the drivers. Nice outside th ebox thinking.. BTW, they are georgus! good work!

    Leave a comment:


  • jhollander
    replied
    Re: Pencil Tower

    Sure but most of it is shown above. The drivers are listed and the x-o is also shown. Give me some time and post post a few more details and my drawings

    Leave a comment:


  • Double_J
    replied
    Re: Pencil Tower

    Would you be willing to post the specs of the cabinets and ports for those, like me, who may want to build a set? Also, a product list of all the crossover components would be great as well.

    Thanks.

    Leave a comment:


  • skinney6
    replied
    Re: Pencil Tower

    damn!
    thank you for the detail
    i'm gonna try it

    Leave a comment:


  • jhollander
    replied

    Leave a comment:


  • ReissM
    replied
    Re: Pencil Tower

    You knocked this one out of the park.

    Very cool.

    Leave a comment:


  • skinney6
    replied
    Re: Pencil Tower

    i'd like to finish my baffles like this.
    would you tell me how you got this beautiful finish?

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X