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Helium - a true micromonitor

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  • CZ Eddie
    replied
    Ahh, okay that makes sense!
    I was getting frustrated because with the test fit, it seemed one side kept going deeper than the other side.
    Assumed it was supposed to sit on top. Great, I'm glad I complained about this because now I know I was doing it wrong.

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  • Wolf
    replied
    The ND16 has a lip on the front edge, that is supposed to be tapped into the enclosure. It provides the seal that is required.
    Wolf

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  • Chris Roemer
    replied
    I've not used that little guy, but I think in general it's just "press fit" in (from the front or rear), flush w/the baffle front (maybe a little RTV silicone to seal it - or a touch of masking tape around the back edge just to center it and make it "snug").

    As far as the woofers go, you really need to either chamfer or roundover the baffle / opposite the side you mount from. The 90/91s are a LOT easier to work with than the ND65s!

    Leave a comment:


  • CZ Eddie
    replied
    Oh and I'm a little annoyed at how small the mounting lip on this tweeter is.
    Could it not have been at least 1/8" of an inch?
    It's like a 1/16" lip. lol
    Should have just left it without a lip if they were going to make it that small. sheesh!

    Leave a comment:


  • CZ Eddie
    replied
    I've got my wood all cut and partially assembled. Still have a ton of sanding to do.
    Amplifier should be arriving in a couple days.

    So, here's something I didn't consider beforehand.
    Rear mounting the woofer requires a super thin baffle.
    Doh.
    Not an issue. Just,,, something I'm surprised I didn't think of.
    I may go with front mount since off-axis response is so important.
    That or sand down my baffle with some 36 grit till it's thin enough.

    Leave a comment:


  • Chris Roemer
    replied
    I've front-mounted the ND90/91 and AURA NS3 drivers (which PE does NOW sell) using a 3.0" hole saw. With the tooth "set", and a small "wobble", the hole ends up being perfect.
    You MUST relieve the back side (if front mounting - which I know you're not) in order for the driver to breathe.

    Leave a comment:


  • CZ Eddie
    replied
    Originally posted by Chris Roemer View Post
    It's been a while, but I THINK a 3" will do?
    If you have one, do a test cut on a piece of scrap and see.
    Thank you.
    I didn't even think of it before but I just looked at the spec drawings:
    http://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/...tions-8418.pdf

    Looks like 3", which I have, may be too small?
    A 3.25" may be required. Please do confirm if you get a chance, and thank you!

    I won't have my driver delivered until Wednesday.
    Was hoping to have all tools by then too.

    EDIT: I'm good to go.
    I've got a 3 1/8" hole saw which should be perfect!
    Last edited by CZ Eddie; 06-04-2016, 06:07 PM.

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  • Chris Roemer
    replied
    It's been a while, but I THINK a 3" will do?
    If you have one, do a test cut on a piece of scrap and see.

    Leave a comment:


  • CZ Eddie
    replied
    Folks, what size circle saw are you using to rear mount the ND91's?
    Need to find out if I already have the correct size or if I need to order a new hole saw!

    Leave a comment:


  • CZ Eddie
    replied
    Thanks, guys!
    An ~80-100W amp will be a possible upgrade option in the near future.

    Leave a comment:


  • scottsehlin
    replied
    Chris is correct that these will already have BSC incorporated. As small as they are, they often get put on a desk or mounted close to a rear wall, and the tonal balance seems to work reasonably well for that purpose.

    I think a 60 watt amp is reasonable for this application. The Heliums can take more power than most micro speakers due to the excursion capabilities of the ND91 and how the drivers parameters match with the small box, but it's still a 3" woofer...

    Leave a comment:


  • Chris Roemer
    replied
    PE's decided to no longer produce a "full line" (paper) catalog, so there's that. These will already have "BSC" incorporated. Pointing "straight up", you'll probably end up needing to "unpad" the tweeter a bit (maybe a lot).

    Leave a comment:


  • CZ Eddie
    replied
    In any case, my order has been placed @ PE.
    Would really like to get answers to my above questions though.

    The parts I ordered if anyone cares...

    Leave a comment:


  • CZ Eddie
    replied
    Whoah.... I'm totally building one of these for my bar speaker project!

    Since I'll be using a single one of these firing straight up on a table with no boundary near by, with the table in the middle of a very wide open large room, should I incorporate a BSC? Maybe 3dB boost in the bass?
    Also, how much power can these take? I've got a 60W amp but am totally willing to find something with more power since this speaker will absolutely be taken to it's limits!

    Yes, I know this is the wrong speaker for my needs.
    Large, open room, etc.
    But please bear with me, I know what I'm doing and this fits a very specific need.
    I've already got an NS3 in a crap box doing 90% of what I need.

    Leave a comment:


  • garychelette
    replied
    Originally posted by whatabirdie View Post
    Congratulations for your nice build and thanks for the review. They look good in duratex
    I guess almost anything looks good in Duratex.

    Leave a comment:

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