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The Quarks - M.O.S.D. Computer Speaker

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  • Re: The Quarks - M.O.S.D. Computer Speaker

    Those look pretty slick!
    Wolf
    "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
    "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
    "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
    "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

    *InDIYana event website*

    Photobucket pages:
    http://photobucket.com/Wolf-Speakers_and_more

    My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
    http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

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    • Re: The Quarks - M.O.S.D. Computer Speaker

      Originally posted by donradick View Post
      @djg -

      Awesome little build. Beautiful veneer work.
      Any special concerns with cutting 45 degree miters on the veneer?

      Don
      The miters worried me, but were really easy. I cut 1/2" wide strips of the PSA veneer. Then I disassembled a combination square, laid the strip against the rule, used the 45 degree edge as a guide to score the strip with an exacto knife. Scissors cut and sand to a good fit. With the PSA veneer this all took about 3 hours from particle board to what you see in the pics.

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      • Re: The Quarks - M.O.S.D. Computer Speaker

        Some build pics:
        Attached Files

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        • Re: The Quarks - M.O.S.D. Computer Speaker

          It's funny how thick the wood seems, until you look at the biscuit slots and
          realize that they are something like 1/8 inch wide. I dig Quark builds!

          I think I hear a difference - wow, it's amazing!" Ethan Winer: audio myths
          "As God is my witness I'll never be without a good pair of speakers!" Scarlett O'Hara

          High value, high quality RS150/TB28-537SH bookshelf - TARGAS NLA!
          SB13/Vifa BC25SC06 MTM DCR Galeons-SB13-MTM
          My Voxel min sub Yet-another-Voxel-build

          Tangband W6-sub

          Comment


          • Re: The Quarks - M.O.S.D. Computer Speaker

            I've got a couple of these buyout inductors, http://www.parts-express.com/10mh-20...ctor--269-2124 Will they work in place of the iron cores?

            Comment


            • Re: The Quarks - M.O.S.D. Computer Speaker

              Originally posted by Jeff F. View Post
              I've got a couple of these buyout inductors, http://www.parts-express.com/10mh-20...ctor--269-2124 Will they work in place of the iron cores?
              Yes sir, I used that same inductor in a pair and couldn't tell the difference in the two pairs of Quarks.
              Paul

              The "SB's" build page
              http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...-4-(pic-heavy)

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              • Re: The Quarks - M.O.S.D. Computer Speaker

                Originally posted by bullittstang View Post
                Yes sir, I used that same inductor in a pair and couldn't tell the difference in the two pairs of Quarks.
                Cool, the smaller footprint probably helps too.Thanks Paul

                Comment


                • Re: The Quarks - M.O.S.D. Computer Speaker

                  Originally posted by Jeff F. View Post
                  I've got a couple of these buyout inductors, http://www.parts-express.com/10mh-20...ctor--269-2124 Will they work in place of the iron cores?
                  I realize others have said, but yes, that inductor will be fine.
                  Click here for Jeff Bagby's Loudspeaker Design Software

                  Comment


                  • Another Quark build.
                    I've got a box fulll of the little FR-83 drivers, and mo' builds coming (think soundbar.....)
                    I used the PE CNC 1/2 inch MDF boxes, but decided to "bust my chops" and try for veneer.
                    The front roundover was not nearly a 1/2 inch roundover, but I made up some veneer softener, let the pieces
                    sit a few days, and paper backed cherry veneer glued down without a hitch.

                    Finish is about 5 coats of Watco Danish Oil, topped with Aquazar water based poly.

                    Thanks again to Jeff!





                    I think I hear a difference - wow, it's amazing!" Ethan Winer: audio myths
                    "As God is my witness I'll never be without a good pair of speakers!" Scarlett O'Hara

                    High value, high quality RS150/TB28-537SH bookshelf - TARGAS NLA!
                    SB13/Vifa BC25SC06 MTM DCR Galeons-SB13-MTM
                    My Voxel min sub Yet-another-Voxel-build

                    Tangband W6-sub

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by donradick View Post
                      Another Quark build.
                      I've got a box fulll of the little FR-83 drivers, and mo' builds coming (think soundbar.....)
                      I used the PE CNC 1/2 inch MDF boxes, but decided to "bust my chops" and try for veneer.
                      The front roundover was not nearly a 1/2 inch roundover, but I made up some veneer softener, let the pieces
                      sit a few days, and paper backed cherry veneer glued down without a hitch.

                      Finish is about 5 coats of Watco Danish Oil, topped with Aquazar water based poly.

                      Thanks again to Jeff!



                      Those really look nice, Don!
                      Click here for Jeff Bagby's Loudspeaker Design Software

                      Comment


                      • Great job Don! I will have to give that Danish Oil a try some day.
                        -Robert

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by woodsart View Post
                          Great job Don! I will have to give that Danish Oil a try some day.

                          I used Danish Oil for the first time on a (non-speaker) project last year - patio furniture. Great stuff, just wipe-on / wipe-off with an old t-shirt and you get a great finish. First coat is heavy then a wipe-off after 5 minutes of soaking in to the wood. Subsequent coats are light and literally take a minute to apply.

                          Danish Oil doesn't "dry", it cures using oxygen. So you need to let each coat fully cure lest the finish becomes "sticky" as the undercoat never cures being displaced from the oxygen in the air. The first heavy coat takes the longest to dry since more oil has soaked into the wood.

                          I read that the guys that finish gunstocks have rule-of-thumb ... One coat a day for a week, one coat a weak for a month, one coat a month for year, then once a year (maintenance coats?). I followed that but stopped after a month and had a wonderful finish. I believe "repairs" are a simple as wiping on another coat or two.

                          Comment


                          • Thanks for the kind words, guys.
                            I really enjoyed the Danish Oil finish and will use it again for dark(ish) woods

                            I think I hear a difference - wow, it's amazing!" Ethan Winer: audio myths
                            "As God is my witness I'll never be without a good pair of speakers!" Scarlett O'Hara

                            High value, high quality RS150/TB28-537SH bookshelf - TARGAS NLA!
                            SB13/Vifa BC25SC06 MTM DCR Galeons-SB13-MTM
                            My Voxel min sub Yet-another-Voxel-build

                            Tangband W6-sub

                            Comment


                            • Nice work Don they look great... anxious to see the sound bar happen.

                              Comment


                              • Hi Jeff, Awesome project. I really appreciate your designs and your excel spreadsheet is super. I ordered a pair from Erich and I am looking forward to the build

                                Can you tell me a little more about your design for the quarks? When I model the FE-83 in your 0.04ft enclosure tuned to 101hz I get a get a 10db peak at 103hz and an f3 of 82 hz f10 of 73. Sealed in the same enclosure yields a smooth drop to an F3 of 136 and the same F10 of 73 with no peak at 103hz.

                                If you were using this with a sub, would there be an advantage to use these sealed instead or would the crossover not work well? I am wondering how that peak will interact with the sub crossover

                                How did you compensate for this peak of the vented enclosure in the crossover design? Just trying to learn here

                                Thank you!

                                Brian

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