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The Quarks - M.O.S.D. Computer Speaker

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  • Hi everyone, this is my first build, and last night I glued Erich's awesome flatpacks.

    I'm trying to layout the crossover, and I don't want to mess anything up. This is my first time using nodal-analysis, so I'm not sure that I got it right. I uploaded a pic; if any of you can look it over and let me know if I'm right/way off base, that would be much appreciated.

    The thick lines are wires, the highlighted circles denote a proposed solder joint.

    Also, I noticed that when I clamped the flatpack enclosures, the edges became ever-so-slightly raised/not completely flush. This can obviously be sanded down and I'm sure will be fine, but is there a trick to clamping that I messed up? Or is that just the nature of MDF as it absorbs/sets with the titebond glue?

    Thanks to everyone that can look, and thanks to Erich and Jeff for a great entry into speaker building
    Click image for larger version

Name:	quarks crossover.JPG
Views:	5
Size:	37.7 KB
ID:	1297621
    Attached Files

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    • Originally posted by ScenesFromAHat View Post
      Hi everyone, this is my first build, and last night I glued Erich's awesome flatpacks.

      I'm trying to layout the crossover, and I don't want to mess anything up. This is my first time using nodal-analysis, so I'm not sure that I got it right. I uploaded a pic; if any of you can look it over and let me know if I'm right/way off base, that would be much appreciated.

      The thick lines are wires, the highlighted circles denote a proposed solder joint.

      Also, I noticed that when I clamped the flatpack enclosures, the edges became ever-so-slightly raised/not completely flush. This can obviously be sanded down and I'm sure will be fine, but is there a trick to clamping that I messed up? Or is that just the nature of MDF as it absorbs/sets with the titebond glue?

      Thanks to everyone that can look, and thanks to Erich and Jeff for a great entry into speaker building
      [ATTACH=CONFIG]n1297621[/ATTACH]

      Looks good man

      Comment


      • Looks good! When I assembled mine, I personally found it easier to separate the woofer/tweeter crossovers. I mounted the woofer coil on the bottom of the cabinet, and ran a wire directly from the woofer neg terminal to the binding post. For the tweeter crossover, I soldered and hot glued the components together, and mounted that on the side of the cabinet. I had less wires running about, everything fit together easier, and the crossover was easier to assemble. Only minor annoyance was having to solder two wires to the pos/neg terminal, one for each driver.

        If that didn't make much sense, I can post a picture of the crossover.

        Comment


        • I used a very sharp Stanley #4 bench plane to smooth out the joints after the glue dried. It was much faster than sanding. Careful of the direction, it's easy to blow out MDF. If you en up splitting any edges (as I did) you can just glue them down again using titebond. Fill any remaining gaps with bondo, sand and paint... you should not see any seams after that.

          Comment


          • Okay seems like years since I started these but I guess given the start date of this discussion the most it could be is a year and a half. I've built maybe a dozen pairs of speakers, more interested in following plans than designing; it's led me into woodworking which is a better fit for for me. Anyway these were meant to be a two birds solution, new desktop speakers, and a way to practice gluing up boards, planing, and cutting dovetails. I had some nicely beat up white and red oak from pallets I wanted to use, cut offs from a larger project. I did most of the work when I got the kit but was disappointed by my many mistakes, so I put them away for a week, which turned into a year and some months. I'll see if I can do some glamour shots.

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            • I have a couple questions. Tucked inside the back vents was a length of sticky foam. Was this intended to seal the back? Or make a seal around the bigger driver? Anyone skip using it? As I type this they sound pretty good.

              Also, is there meant to be any stuffing in the box? If so, a measurable amount, or just a handful?

              And, I have a flat-pack left over I don't need. (Assuming I can find it.) Happy to send it off to whoever for the price of shipping it. I don't think that will be very necessary for anyone as I think all the kits come with the packs, don't they?

              Comment


              • Very nice bscalled those turned out great, and well worth the time invested. Listening to a pair at my office desk as a type this. FYI, wouldn't have even guessed pallet leftovers if you hadn't said anything.
                Paul

                The "SB's" build page
                http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...-4-(pic-heavy)

                Comment


                • Originally posted by bscalled View Post
                  I had some nicely beat up white and red oak from pallets I wanted to use, cut offs from a larger project.
                  Very nice build. I can't decide between pretty or handsome (or both).

                  Don't you just love the wood you can reclaim from pallets. In the 90's, I had access to a full wood shop (planar, jointer cabinet saw), and was able to reclaim red oak from several pallets. I made a scale bridge and 36 count trestle set for the kids G-scale trains running around the tree at Christmas time.

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                  • Originally posted by bscalled View Post
                    Also, is there meant to be any stuffing in the box? If so, a measurable amount, or just a handful?
                    See post #8 in this thread. Oh, and your speakers look very nice!

                    Comment


                    • Thanks guys, and Jeff F; I thought I'd read that somewhere once but I overlooked it recently; read the first few posts over then skipped to the end. I also appreciated ScenesFromAHat drawing out the crossover, which I used to check mine.

                      I guess the tape was something I put in the box myself, I don't know. I just discovered a box with an Overnight Sensation kit in it, which I just barely started then forgot all about. I think I was going to build both small speakers, compare them, and give one pair away. Yikes. It's been an eventful few years and that's the excuse I'm sticking with.

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by bscalled View Post
                        I have a couple questions. Tucked inside the back vents was a length of sticky foam. Was this intended to seal the back? Or make a seal around the bigger driver? Anyone skip using it?
                        It's gasket tape for the back side of the woofer.

                        Comment


                        • Jeff or someone else that might know... I looked but couldn't find the info; what is the crossover point for the Quarks?
                          Thanks!
                          "We're speaker geeks, not speaker nerds. Nerds make money!" Marty H
                          Bismarck, North Dakota
                          My Current System: Jolida SJ502A, Squeezebox Touch, and Carmody Sunflowers
                          My Garage System:Marantz 2238B and Nano-Neos

                          Comment


                          • To those who have built a Quark, would you be able to weigh one?

                            I'd like to put a captured nut on the back to mount them on the lightweight Monoprice stands. The stands have a 5lb capacity, so I thought it would be good to ask before going further.

                            Dual monitors these days leave so little desktop real estate...
                            nothing can stop me now

                            Comment


                            • I think you would be fine, they are close to the same weight as my laptop, that I know is 3-pounds, so they are probably 4-5 pounds.
                              Paul

                              The "SB's" build page
                              http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...-4-(pic-heavy)

                              Comment


                              • Hi, I am hoping this thread is alive. My first post, my first build (proposed). Since the F83's are not available, I purchased these woofers PE part# 299-422. I have included the T/S parameters for both the Buyout woofer and the F83 as published. Note: I tried to attach a normal word document with docx extension and would not accept. May be I need to read the forum rules for attachments.

                                I am hoping the woofer can be used as a replacement, with just some minor tuning & crossover work. Your answers and comments are greatly appreciated. Thank you for the help.

                                Myles

                                Buy out Product Specifications
                                • Nominal Diameter3"
                                • Power Handling (RMS)20 Watts
                                • Power Handling (max)40 Watts
                                • Impedance 8 ohms
                                • Frequency Response80 to 13,000 Hz
                                • Sensitivity84.1 dB 2.83V/1m
                                • Voice Coil Diameter0.8"
                                • Magnet Weight8 oz.
                                Thiele-Small ParametersMaterials of Construction
                                • Cone MaterialCoated Paper
                                • Surround MaterialRubber
                                • Voice Coil Wire MaterialCopper
                                • Voice Coil FormerAluminum
                                • Basket / Frame MaterialSteel
                                • Magnet MaterialFerrite
                                Mounting Information
                                • Overall Outside Diameter3.63"
                                • Baffle Cutout Diameter2.76"
                                • Depth1.76"
                                • Bolt Circle Diameter3.27"
                                • # Mounting Holes4
                                Optimum Cabinet Size (determined using BassBox 6 Pro High Fidelity suggestion)

                                Fountek 83 Product Specifications
                                • Nominal Diameter3"
                                • Power Handling (RMS)12 Watts
                                • Impedance8 ohms
                                • Frequency Response100 to 25,000 Hz
                                • Sensitivity85.7 dB 1W/1m
                                • Voice Coil Diameter0.78"
                                Thiele-Small ParametersMaterials of Construction
                                • Cone MaterialAluminum
                                • Surround MaterialRubber
                                • Voice Coil Wire MaterialCCA
                                • Voice Coil FormerAluminum
                                • Basket / Frame MaterialSteel
                                • Magnet MaterialFerrite
                                Mounting Information
                                • Overall Outside Diameter3.55"
                                • Baffle Cutout Diameter2.75"
                                • Depth1.7"
                                • Bolt Circle Diameter3.25"
                                • # Mounting Holes4
                                Optimum Cabinet Size (determined using BassBox 6 Pro High Fidelity suggestion)

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