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We hope to see you this summer!

Vivian and Jill
2 of 2 < >

Midwest Audio Fest

It’s that time audio enthusiasts! Registration for the 2019 Speaker Design Competition is now open! Visit midwestaudiofest.com for details and to list your speaker project. We are excited to see all returning participants, and look forward to meeting some new designers this year, as well! Be sure your plans include a visit to the Parts Express Tent Sale for the lowest prices of the year, and the Audio Swap Meet where you can buy and trade with other audio fans. We hope to see you this summer! Vivian and Jill
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The Quarks - M.O.S.D. Computer Speaker

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  • thekorvers
    replied
    I don't think your model is correct. What program are you using, Jeff's?

    Leave a comment:


  • violinbf
    replied
    Hi Jeff, Awesome project. I really appreciate your designs and your excel spreadsheet is super. I ordered a pair from Erich and I am looking forward to the build

    Can you tell me a little more about your design for the quarks? When I model the FE-83 in your 0.04ft enclosure tuned to 101hz I get a get a 10db peak at 103hz and an f3 of 82 hz f10 of 73. Sealed in the same enclosure yields a smooth drop to an F3 of 136 and the same F10 of 73 with no peak at 103hz.

    If you were using this with a sub, would there be an advantage to use these sealed instead or would the crossover not work well? I am wondering how that peak will interact with the sub crossover

    How did you compensate for this peak of the vented enclosure in the crossover design? Just trying to learn here

    Thank you!

    Brian

    Leave a comment:


  • careyink
    replied
    Nice work Don they look great... anxious to see the sound bar happen.

    Leave a comment:


  • donradick
    replied
    Thanks for the kind words, guys.
    I really enjoyed the Danish Oil finish and will use it again for dark(ish) woods

    Leave a comment:


  • Millstonemike
    replied
    Originally posted by woodsart View Post
    Great job Don! I will have to give that Danish Oil a try some day.

    I used Danish Oil for the first time on a (non-speaker) project last year - patio furniture. Great stuff, just wipe-on / wipe-off with an old t-shirt and you get a great finish. First coat is heavy then a wipe-off after 5 minutes of soaking in to the wood. Subsequent coats are light and literally take a minute to apply.

    Danish Oil doesn't "dry", it cures using oxygen. So you need to let each coat fully cure lest the finish becomes "sticky" as the undercoat never cures being displaced from the oxygen in the air. The first heavy coat takes the longest to dry since more oil has soaked into the wood.

    I read that the guys that finish gunstocks have rule-of-thumb ... One coat a day for a week, one coat a weak for a month, one coat a month for year, then once a year (maintenance coats?). I followed that but stopped after a month and had a wonderful finish. I believe "repairs" are a simple as wiping on another coat or two.

    Leave a comment:


  • woodsart
    replied
    Great job Don! I will have to give that Danish Oil a try some day.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jeff B.
    replied
    Originally posted by donradick View Post
    Another Quark build.
    I've got a box fulll of the little FR-83 drivers, and mo' builds coming (think soundbar.....)
    I used the PE CNC 1/2 inch MDF boxes, but decided to "bust my chops" and try for veneer.
    The front roundover was not nearly a 1/2 inch roundover, but I made up some veneer softener, let the pieces
    sit a few days, and paper backed cherry veneer glued down without a hitch.

    Finish is about 5 coats of Watco Danish Oil, topped with Aquazar water based poly.

    Thanks again to Jeff!



    Those really look nice, Don!

    Leave a comment:


  • donradick
    replied
    Another Quark build.
    I've got a box fulll of the little FR-83 drivers, and mo' builds coming (think soundbar.....)
    I used the PE CNC 1/2 inch MDF boxes, but decided to "bust my chops" and try for veneer.
    The front roundover was not nearly a 1/2 inch roundover, but I made up some veneer softener, let the pieces
    sit a few days, and paper backed cherry veneer glued down without a hitch.

    Finish is about 5 coats of Watco Danish Oil, topped with Aquazar water based poly.

    Thanks again to Jeff!




    Leave a comment:


  • Jeff B.
    replied
    Re: The Quarks - M.O.S.D. Computer Speaker

    Originally posted by Jeff F. View Post
    I've got a couple of these buyout inductors, http://www.parts-express.com/10mh-20...ctor--269-2124 Will they work in place of the iron cores?
    I realize others have said, but yes, that inductor will be fine.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jeff F.
    replied
    Re: The Quarks - M.O.S.D. Computer Speaker

    Originally posted by bullittstang View Post
    Yes sir, I used that same inductor in a pair and couldn't tell the difference in the two pairs of Quarks.
    Cool, the smaller footprint probably helps too.Thanks Paul

    Leave a comment:


  • bullittstang
    replied
    Re: The Quarks - M.O.S.D. Computer Speaker

    Originally posted by Jeff F. View Post
    I've got a couple of these buyout inductors, http://www.parts-express.com/10mh-20...ctor--269-2124 Will they work in place of the iron cores?
    Yes sir, I used that same inductor in a pair and couldn't tell the difference in the two pairs of Quarks.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jeff F.
    replied
    Re: The Quarks - M.O.S.D. Computer Speaker

    I've got a couple of these buyout inductors, http://www.parts-express.com/10mh-20...ctor--269-2124 Will they work in place of the iron cores?

    Leave a comment:


  • donradick
    replied
    Re: The Quarks - M.O.S.D. Computer Speaker

    It's funny how thick the wood seems, until you look at the biscuit slots and
    realize that they are something like 1/8 inch wide. I dig Quark builds!

    Leave a comment:


  • djg
    replied
    Re: The Quarks - M.O.S.D. Computer Speaker

    Some build pics:
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • djg
    replied
    Re: The Quarks - M.O.S.D. Computer Speaker

    Originally posted by donradick View Post
    @djg -

    Awesome little build. Beautiful veneer work.
    Any special concerns with cutting 45 degree miters on the veneer?

    Don
    The miters worried me, but were really easy. I cut 1/2" wide strips of the PSA veneer. Then I disassembled a combination square, laid the strip against the rule, used the 45 degree edge as a guide to score the strip with an exacto knife. Scissors cut and sand to a good fit. With the PSA veneer this all took about 3 hours from particle board to what you see in the pics.

    Leave a comment:

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