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  • #61
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    • #62
      Originally posted by JSheringo View Post
      Have started my Anthologies. Started playing with the crossovers. Can anyone give me an estimated change in value for the tweeter series resistor for a +/- 3 decibel change?

      Thanks,
      Joe
      That would be a Curt question.

      Jim

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      • #63
        Originally posted by Jim Holtz View Post
        That would be a Curt question.

        Jim
        Funny, that answer can be taken two ways.

        I think 1/2 or double the value would probably be a good place to start.....or, it may be just right.

        The precision ports came with a 5" center piece. I assume it is precut....assembled with the flares, it is more like 13".

        Did you consider putting damping in the upper (with the midrange tubes) and lower chambers?

        Did you chamfer the back of the speaaker cutouts?

        I rounded the edges of all my window frame braces.....I seriously doubt that does anything, but I just didn't have enough MDF dust in my garage.


        Thanks,
        Joe

        Comment


        • #64
          Originally posted by JSheringo View Post
          Funny, that answer can be taken two ways.

          I think 1/2 or double the value would probably be a good place to start.....or, it may be just right.

          The precision ports came with a 5" center piece. I assume it is precut....assembled with the flares, it is more like 13".

          Did you consider putting damping in the upper (with the midrange tubes) and lower chambers?

          Did you chamfer the back of the speaaker cutouts?

          I rounded the edges of all my window frame braces.....I seriously doubt that does anything, but I just didn't have enough MDF dust in my garage.


          Thanks,
          Joe
          Hi Joe,

          My answer wasn't meant to be funny. Curt is the crossover designer and can tell you what values you'd need to do a +/_ 3db on the tweeter. Which prompts me to ask; why you'd want to do that? The Anthology's under went extensive measuring, listening and adjusting to achieve a realistic balance during development. If you have a personal preference, I understand but they will no longer sound as designed. I guess thats the "Y" in DIY. :-)

          Port tubes are precut and ready to assemble.

          Yes, I did consider the extra foam/stuffing but chose not to. The cabinet is optimally sized for the (2) RS225's and the foam as speced is designed to kill backwave reflections which it does. Adding foam/stuffing would only make the cabinet appear larger to the woofers which wasn't needed.

          I always chamfer the inside of the front baffle on all drivers except for the tweeter/ribbons. It helps smooth the transfer and eliminates the tunnel effect.

          HTH

          Jim

          Comment


          • #65
            LOT! Add another 20 pounds for the speakers, and you will definitely need a strong friend to move these things around.
            Statement Monitors

            Duratex is your friend

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            • #66
              Originally posted by Steven72555 View Post
              I would love to see a completed built crossover as I am kind of perplexed as to where and/or how the crossover fits into cabinet.
              Which, by the way, I am halfway into building the first cab, and it weighs a LOT! Add another 20 pounds for the speakers, and you will definitely need a strong friend to move these things around.
              Hi Steven,

              I mounted the crossover in mine to the bottom shelf brace behind the lower woofer. I don't have pictures of the crossover but I do suggest you build the crossover so it can be removed if necessary.

              HTH

              Jim
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              • #67
                Originally posted by Jim Holtz View Post
                Hi Joe,

                My answer wasn't meant to be funny. Curt is the crossover designer and can tell you what values you'd need to do a +/_ 3db on the tweeter. Which prompts me to ask; why you'd want to do that? The Anthology's under went extensive measuring, listening and adjusting to achieve a realistic balance during development. If you have a personal preference, I understand but they will no longer sound as designed. I guess thats the "Y" in DIY. :-)

                Port tubes are precut and ready to assemble.

                Yes, I did consider the extra foam/stuffing but chose not to. The cabinet is optimally sized for the (2) RS225's and the foam as speced is designed to kill backwave reflections which it does. Adding foam/stuffing would only make the cabinet appear larger to the woofers which wasn't needed.

                I always chamfer the inside of the front baffle on all drivers except for the tweeter/ribbons. It helps smooth the transfer and eliminates the tunnel effect.

                HTH

                Jim
                Hi Jim,

                Thanks for the info.....the build is proceeding well.

                I hope I didn't insult you with my twisted sense of humor. I like the dual meaning words...Curt vs. curt. Too much George Carlin, I fear.

                I'm also sure the crossover as designed is excellent (I would love to see a frequency response graph.) Sometimes, however I like to raise the tweeter level some.....probably because I'm a throwback. Remember when most speakers had that tweeter level switch? Also, I fear my higher frequency hearing is fading with age.

                I sense we are contemporaries. I got the bug from my father back in the 60s. When we lived in Japan, he purchased Sansui amps and speakers. Along with the requisite turntable, he had 2 Akai reel to reels. We spent countless hours recording everyone's LPs to tape. In high school I went through the Heathkit phase. When I was in the service, I was in Germany and bought and sold all kinds of audio equipment. Marantz, Kenwood ("Driftwood" to the Marantz people.) KLH speakers, AR-3s, Bose 901s....later NAD, Time Frames and Time Windows, Polks and B&W. Now, the Anthologies and soon back to tubes and vinyl. What a circle!

                I really admire your veneering on the Anthologies. I have never done any and bought some nice walnut veneer for this project. I guess I will use contact cement. I am worried about trimming the end grain. I will get a new sharp laminate trimmer, but am worried about it chipping. The laminate is paper backed. Any tips are greatly appreciated.

                I am not going to extend the baffle to the bottom of the cabinet. I will radius the bottom and put a piece of the veneer below it.

                I am working on the bases. The will have 4 - 2x2x4" aluminum posts to lift the cabinet for my down firing port.

                ~more pictures to follow

                Best Always,
                Joe

                Comment


                • #68

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                  • #69
                    Originally posted by dominicr View Post
                    Jim, where are the crossover points on Anthology? Apologies if it's been posted and answered.
                    No apology necessary. I don't have the graph but Curt told me around 350 Hz and 2,000. Again, the drivers determined the best crossover points.

                    Jim

                    Comment


                    • #70
                      Originally posted by JSheringo View Post
                      Hi Jim,

                      Thanks for the info.....the build is proceeding well.

                      I hope I didn't insult you with my twisted sense of humor. I like the dual meaning words...Curt vs. curt. Too much George Carlin, I fear.

                      I'm also sure the crossover as designed is excellent (I would love to see a frequency response graph.) Sometimes, however I like to raise the tweeter level some.....probably because I'm a throwback. Remember when most speakers had that tweeter level switch? Also, I fear my higher frequency hearing is fading with age.

                      I sense we are contemporaries. I got the bug from my father back in the 60s. When we lived in Japan, he purchased Sansui amps and speakers. Along with the requisite turntable, he had 2 Akai reel to reels. We spent countless hours recording everyone's LPs to tape. In high school I went through the Heathkit phase. When I was in the service, I was in Germany and bought and sold all kinds of audio equipment. Marantz, Kenwood ("Driftwood" to the Marantz people.) KLH speakers, AR-3s, Bose 901s....later NAD, Time Frames and Time Windows, Polks and B&W. Now, the Anthologies and soon back to tubes and vinyl. What a circle!

                      I really admire your veneering on the Anthologies. I have never done any and bought some nice walnut veneer for this project. I guess I will use contact cement. I am worried about trimming the end grain. I will get a new sharp laminate trimmer, but am worried about it chipping. The laminate is paper backed. Any tips are greatly appreciated.

                      I am not going to extend the baffle to the bottom of the cabinet. I will radius the bottom and put a piece of the veneer below it.

                      I am working on the bases. The will have 4 - 2x2x4" aluminum posts to lift the cabinet for my down firing port.

                      ~more pictures to follow

                      Best Always,
                      Joe
                      Hi Joe,

                      Nope, I wasn't insulted at all, just curious why the desire to change the top end which you answered. LOL! I must be getting slow in my old age because I did completely miss your humor. I do believe you are correct that we're in similar age groups.

                      Sorry, I don't have a FR graph. Curt has been swamped between work, other projects he's committed to and life in general so we have several designs that haven't been posted on his website yet. Having kits available through Meniscus has made it much easier for us as well as the builders. But it also lets us shuffle things to the back burner and move on to other more pressing projects.

                      It won't be hard to provide an "upward" tilt to the top end. Honestly, I'd suggest you email Curt with the question, since he doesn't get on here very often.

                      I bought the veneer and contact cement from Joe the Woodworker. They had a great price on a 4'x10' paper backed sheet of walnut. I also like the glue he sells. Not the cheapest but the best I've used. Its also water based and has low VOC's for use inside. The 4'x10' sheet is enough to cover everything but the back. I had a left over sheet of gloss black vertical grade Formica left over from another project so that went on the back. It worked out well.

                      I'm not a great wood worker by any stretch of the imagination. Veneering isn't hard at all. I cut the pieces I need 1" - 2" oversize for ease of placement and trimming and then carefully "roll" the veneer into place using a veneer scraper as you go to eliminate bubbles and to get it firmly in place. You do need an extra pair of hands to do this on large pieces. With the help of my wife, we covered the sides and front with one large piece of veneer. Yes, I did get a bit of edge chipping when trimming against the grain. I've always used my big router in the past but decided to buy a small laminate trimmer for this and it did work well with very minor roughness on the front edge of the top veneer that I touched up with sandpaper.

                      Everyone seems to have their own favorite finish. Mine is a simple process. I use wipe on gel stain for ease of use then follow up with a coat or two of Bullseye dewaxed sealer (shellac) to make the grain pop. Then I shoot the cabinet with Crystalac. I have a big compressor in my garage that I've piped air down to my basement work shop. I created a temporary spray booth with shower curtains and cheap plastic tarps all hanging from 1" PVC I hang from the floor joist. I use an Iwata 400 knock off automotive spray gun to apply the finish. It comes out very nice.

                      I have used the brush able versions of Crystalac too with very good results. I prefer spraying when possible though. BTW, Crystalac is water borne and super low VOC so there isn't any smell or health threatening fumes.

                      I hope my process is of some help to you.

                      We love pictures in build threads. I'm looking forward to following your progress.

                      Jim

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                      • #71
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                        • #72

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                          • #73
                            Originally posted by kiteflyer View Post
                            Jim,

                            What would your recommend for a surround speaker with these? I'd like to use a TM design for rear surrounds and front height speakers as part of a 7.1.4 setup. Thanks!
                            Matt
                            Hi Matt,

                            I think some of the SB kits Jeff Bagby has created and are listed at Meniscus would be a very good match. The voicing of Jeff's designs and Curt's designs are very close and I think they would blend very well with the Anthology's. If your budget is tight, check out the 88.1 SB design Meniscus offers which has a crossover by Jeff that sounds amazing for $88.10. Talk to Mark about it if you're interested in it.

                            I'd strongly recommend Curt's designs too but I don't think he's created anything that would be a good match in a T/M design.

                            HTH

                            Jim

                            Comment


                            • #74
                              Originally posted by Jim Holtz View Post
                              Hi Matt,

                              I think some of the SB kits Jeff Bagby has created and are listed at Meniscus would be a very good match. The voicing of Jeff's designs and Curt's designs are very close and I think they would blend very well with the Anthology's. If your budget is tight, check out the 88.1 SB design Meniscus offers which has a crossover by Jeff that sounds amazing for $88.10. Talk to Mark about it if you're interested in it.

                              I'd strongly recommend Curt's designs too but I don't think he's created anything that would be a good match in a T/M design.

                              HTH

                              Jim
                              Are you referring to the Caritas here?
                              Don't worry, if your parachute fails, you have the rest of your life to fix it.

                              If we all did the things we are capable of doing, we would literally ASTOUND ourselves - Thomas A. Edison

                              Some people collect stamps, Imelda Marcos collected shoes. I collect speakers.:D

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                              • #75
                                Originally posted by thekorvers View Post
                                Are you referring to the Caritas here?
                                Yes. I've heard them twice and was impressed with the sound quality both times. Make no mistake, they are a small 2-way with the limitations of a 2-way but I'd suggest that they compete very favorably with 2-ways costing several times their price. Mark and Jeff should take a bow.

                                Another 2-way that I'm very favorably impressed with is the Docere design Jeff also did the crossover for. A lot more money but a VERY nice design. Another Mark/Jeff collaboration.

                                HTH

                                Jim

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