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New subwoofer design: "Dayton Classic Subwoofer"

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  • New subwoofer design: "Dayton Classic Subwoofer"

    After messing around with my Micro-B 2.1 plate amp project for close to a year, I've been thinking about what other subwoofers would be a good match to the .1 section of the amp. There isn't a lot of power to go around, 30 watts or so if that.
    I've been using Paul C's "Voxel" subwoofer and my own "Bass ND" tiny sub tower for bass duties, Link here: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...roject-writeup ... but I wanted to see if I could get a bit more volume out of a different design.

    I decided to check out how the Dayton DC160-4 6.5" classic woofer would do in a medium-small box. The Voxel worked great and was compact, but that Tang Band driver - though it goes low - isn't efficient. The DC160-4 is about 6 db more sensitive. I worked up a bunch of boxes and after a week or so of fiddling, came up with an 18" x 12" x 10" box with a 2" x 8.5" vent flared on the exit. Yeah, this isn't small by any means, but it will fit pretty much anywhere I would consider using it, given it's purpose of being paired with a small set of satellite speakers powered by my Micro-B plate amp. Also, the larger size allows some pretty deep bass from the DC160 without being a total power hog. This is the woofer: http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-...eaker--295-309

    It's only $25 too, not bad for the budget.

    Here is the box being glued up.



    I forgot to take pics of the boards before I glued them together, but they are all mitered so no end grain shows under the veneer.

    Here is a shot of the vent, already glued into an old driver cut-out.



    I'll drill a slightly smaller hole in the cabinet, glue in, and rout the opening to the vent that way, then round over afterwards.

    Here is the basic design on paper:



    It's about .8 cu. ft. and should have an F3 of about 36 Hz. With 30 watts it doesn't break Xmax until 30 Hz or so, and it's just a half mm over centered around 45 Hz. It should be fine I would think. I've seen my D3's flapping a lot more than that without sounding too ugly. At that wattage, it should be able to hit 99 db at 40 Hz or so.

    I've wondered how this driver would work as a subwoofer for awhile. I'm hoping it will be a decent match to my 'Micro-B' 2.1 amp and possibly other lower-powered sub amp projects that exist and will come in the future.

    TomZ
    *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
    *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF *Cello's Speaker Project Page

    *Building the "Micro-B 2.1 Plate Amplifier -- Part 1 * Part 2 * Part 3 * Part 4 * * Part 5 'Review' * -- Assembly Instructions PDF

  • #2
    Looks like a good design Tom. I have also wondered just how good that woofer would do at sub duty. Subscribed!!
    Paul

    The "SB's" build page
    http://techtalk.parts-express.com/sh...-4-(pic-heavy)

    Comment


    • #3
      Bitty-Boom V2 for the win! The DC160S-4 I used in a pair of V2's, and they did quite well as subs. Much better than I expected.

      Mine are currently in the bottom end of the Xenoliths, which also do quite well.

      Later,
      Wolf
      "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
      "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
      "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
      "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

      *InDIYana event website*

      Photobucket pages:
      http://photobucket.com/Wolf-Speakers_and_more

      My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
      http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

      Comment


      • #4
        Cool! ...question, if someone in the know can chime in: I've got a couple of the DC160S-8 here to play with- any thoughts whether those would be as suitable, or would I need to mod the venting?

        Taken from PE's catalog pages- DC160-4 on the left, DC160S-8 on the right:



        TIA for your feedback!
        Ed Henderson

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        • #5
          It'll be within +/-1dB. Most of the DC160s (not surprisingly) model nearly the same in the same box. Be sure to roundover the port exit.

          Comment


          • #6
            Thankya, Chris

            .
            Ed Henderson

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by ejh2854 View Post
              Cool! ...question, if someone in the know can chime in: I've got a couple of the DC160S-8 here to play with- any thoughts whether those would be as suitable, or would I need to mod the venting?



              TIA for your feedback!
              Chris is right, they are not too far off from one another.
              The red is your driver in the same box/vent, the orange the non shielded 4 ohm version:



              The shielded version is 3 db less efficient, a bit less power handling, and has a smidge less Xmax, but really close in real life.

              TomZ
              *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
              *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF *Cello's Speaker Project Page

              *Building the "Micro-B 2.1 Plate Amplifier -- Part 1 * Part 2 * Part 3 * Part 4 * * Part 5 'Review' * -- Assembly Instructions PDF

              Comment


              • #8
                Outstanding- thanks for the data.

                .
                Ed Henderson

                Comment


                • #9
                  Close to putting a driver in this and testing it out.



                  Just have to put a few coats on the bottom and let it dry for a day, then I can fire her up.



                  Here's a little info card with dimensions and stuff for reference.



                  I used Teak veneer I had some scrap pieces I used up here. It seems to be an oily wood, I always felt like I needed to wash my hands after touching it. Looks decent enough, though I guess.
                  We'll see how it sounds in a day or two.

                  TomZ
                  *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
                  *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF *Cello's Speaker Project Page

                  *Building the "Micro-B 2.1 Plate Amplifier -- Part 1 * Part 2 * Part 3 * Part 4 * * Part 5 'Review' * -- Assembly Instructions PDF

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    That looks great... Tom I really enjoy your builds....

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Tom always has such pretty finishes
                      Isn't it about time we started answering rhetorical questions?

                      Paul Carmody's DIY Audio Projects
                      Twitter: @undefinition1

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Looks good. I'd like to do something like this but with the Dayton Classic 8" sub and obviously a bit larger box, but keeping the width and weight the same. Any ideas for that and port size/length?

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by immageek View Post
                          Looks good. I'd like to do something like this but with the Dayton Classic 8" sub and obviously a bit larger box, but keeping the width and weight the same. Any ideas for that and port size/length?
                          This one? http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-...4-ohm--295-200

                          In an 18" x 12" x 12" external box about 1 cu. ft. (only 2" deeper than my box) and a 2.5" by 14" port with the exit flared...
                          ...you get an F3 of 37 Hz, F6: 28 Hz, F10: 24 Hz.
                          With 150 watts, Xmax isn't breached until 25 Hz and below, and it looks to hit about 105 db at max power at 35 Hz (my idea of low enough)

                          Doesn't look bad to me. My box is of course MUCH bigger than the Voxel, but it's still smaller than most smallish full size sealed sub boxes I've seen. I'd call it compact. I had a reason to keep my depth at around 10" due to future placement. Yours would only be 2" deeper.

                          TomZ
                          *Veneering curves, seams, using heat-lock iron on method *Trimming veneer & tips *Curved Sides glue-up video
                          *Part 2 *Gluing multiple curved laminations of HDF *Cello's Speaker Project Page

                          *Building the "Micro-B 2.1 Plate Amplifier -- Part 1 * Part 2 * Part 3 * Part 4 * * Part 5 'Review' * -- Assembly Instructions PDF

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by tomzarbo View Post

                            This one? http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-...4-ohm--295-200

                            In an 18" x 12" x 12" external box about 1 cu. ft. (only 2" deeper than my box) and a 2.5" by 14" port with the exit flared...
                            ...you get an F3 of 37 Hz, F6: 28 Hz, F10: 24 Hz.
                            With 150 watts, Xmax isn't breached until 25 Hz and below, and it looks to hit about 105 db at max power at 35 Hz (my idea of low enough)

                            Doesn't look bad to me. My box is of course MUCH bigger than the Voxel, but it's still smaller than most smallish full size sealed sub boxes I've seen. I'd call it compact. I had a reason to keep my depth at around 10" due to future placement. Yours would only be 2" deeper.

                            TomZ
                            Yes, that is the sub I have in mind. Do you know of a flared 2.5" port? I looked on PE and nothing exists, only a 3". If I need to go a bit bigger, just not wider, to allow for a 3" flared port that's fine. I assume a flared port to eliminate chuffing? More than likely I'm only going to get the 70w Dayton amp as I don't need to max it out since it's a pc sub and pretty much nearfield. Thanks for the response with the box size for me, too. Been beating my head on the wall trying to find a box for that sub or possibly the Infinity 860w. People keep saying the Infinity is a better choice, so I don't know.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Menards, LOWEs, Home Depot: should be able to find 2-1/2" PVC "conduit" in the electrical (not plumbing) section. Roundover yourself.

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