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  • Wolf
    replied
    As long as you can run a brace from top to bottom panels (I used a 1" dowel), then you won't sacrifice the integrity of the enclosure as I built it. The panels are not very large to start with, but bracing can still be important. With the woofer on the bottom, the brace would not be possible.

    Later,
    Wolf

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  • fassj
    replied
    Click image for larger version

Name:	E5873291-8A43-4F5A-BCC5-DCCB80303476.jpeg
Views:	4
Size:	88.4 KB
ID:	1390945 Here’s a quick render from SketchUp of the build using 3/4” MDF. I saw someone else made a down firing version on this which looked amazing. Would anyone anticipate there being any drawbacks to that design?




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  • fassj
    replied
    Thank you! Just ordered what I needed!

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  • Wolf
    replied
    I don't know that I'd worry about the difference since Tom has built with the ferrite and been happy.

    Thanks for the referral, Tom! I still have one of the 2 I built back in 2007, not sure I'm going to give it up...

    Later,
    Wolf

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  • tomzarbo
    replied
    Hopefully wolf sees this thread for official word, but the triumphs I built were the same size as outlined by him, and they use the ferrite version. Seems to work fine. I think others have done so as well.
    TomZ

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  • fassj
    replied
    If I understand the Triumph design correctly that is using the Neo magnet of the W5, how would I determine how much to increase the box dimensions to accommodate the larger magnet on the ferrite version?

    I assume it's just the difference between the volume displacement of each of the magnets but I don't see where I can get those dimensions.

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  • fassj
    replied
    Thanks Tom! The Photobucket link is great! I did find the PR's, thanks! I definitely love the size factor of this. Appreciate all the info!

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  • tomzarbo
    replied
    Originally posted by fassj View Post
    That Summer Winds project looks amazing!

    I agree my box is too small, I was trying to match the recommended size on the Peerless specs. I'm all for rebuilding a new box. I have another thread where it was suggested that I would likely be better off using the Tang Band W5 5 1/4" in a larger enclosure. I'm leaning towards a passive radiator design similar to what you've built in this thread using that W5 driver.

    Would you be able to recommend which PR's would be a good match for the Tang Band W5-1138SMF 5-1/4" and a box volume? I'm using the Lepai LP210PA amp if that helps.
    Boy, can I. This one: Peerless by Tymphany SDS-P830880 5 1/4" Passive Radiator.

    Here is the link to Wolf's 'Triumph' page on photobucket. He has enough info there to explain it all. http://photobucket.com/gallery/user/...Dg4MQ==/?ref=1

    That PR looks to be for sale on PE's site now, but you apparently have to buy a quantity? If you do a search for it, you'll find it at another vendor online for the "Mad" price of $11 if PE won't sell you two.

    It's probably 'THE' small passive radiator'd subwoofer. I've built several and they are basically awesome.
    Actually, it's the smaller, 'comparison' subwoofer in this post; here's a direct link to make life easy: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...63#post1285563

    It's a great little subwoofer, you'll love it.
    TomZ

    P.S. Thanks for the kind words on the 'Summer Winds' project.

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  • fassj
    replied
    That Summer Winds project looks amazing!

    I agree my box is too small, I was trying to match the recommended size on the Peerless specs. I'm all for rebuilding a new box. I have another thread where it was suggested that I would likely be better off using the Tang Band W5 5 1/4" in a larger enclosure. I'm leaning towards a passive radiator design similar to what you've built in this thread using that W5 driver.

    Would you be able to recommend which PR's would be a good match for the Tang Band W5-1138SMF 5-1/4" and a box volume? I'm using the Lepai LP210PA amp if that helps.

    Leave a comment:


  • tomzarbo
    replied


    Your box is just WAY too small if you ask me...…. .17 cu. ft. equals about 4.9 liters, it really needs a lot more room than that.

    I used that driver in my 'Summer Winds' project...
    http://projectgallery.parts-express....-summer-winds/

    ...and
    In that design it was in a 13.6 liter cabinet, vented with a 1.5" x 7" long port (actually 1.59" for the black ABS at home improvement stores). This yields a tuning of around 37 Hz or so.
    Your vent looks fairly small as well and I don't see much if any roundover on it.

    If you don't want to make another box, could you try to stuff the vent with some wadded up socks and see how it sounds that way? You may be able to live with it sealed... at least the chuffing will be gone. Crank down the crossover to minimum, crank up the volume a bit more... it may be acceptable.

    TomZ

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  • fassj
    replied
    I know this thread is a few months old but I'm looking for designs for a small PC subwoofer that I can make using the drive and amp I currently have. Would TomZ's design work for my driver and amp combo or would I need to change any of the parameters?

    Current driver is https://www.parts-express.com/peerle...-ohm--264-1604
    Current amp is https://www.parts-express.com/lepai-...3118--310-4002

    I built a ported box for these but am getting some port noises. Here's the current box and dimensions. I'm pairing this with some AudioEngine A2+ desktop speakers.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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  • Kevin K.
    replied
    I'm betting this sub will be a good match, it was an impressive little booger and didn't take a lot of power to make it sing.

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  • tomzarbo
    replied
    Thanks guys!

    No Kevin, your help helped. You're right, it's just going to take me a few times to get the hang of it. And yes, it seems each type of veneer acts differently to the process. Beings I used a spray can instead of a proper gun, I had a shinier top than sides, but it still all looks good to me. Almost to the point of being okay if I had purchased it retail, but not quite. At least I have the tools now do get it done right, just need to perfect the technique. I still really like rub on poly, though. It's just SOOOOooooo easy!

    Well anyway, I'll plug one of these subs into the new Dayton 2.1 amp and see what it can do with the Bantam's speakers. Hopefully it's a good match output wise.

    TomZ

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  • Drjay
    replied
    Beautiful work!

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  • Kevin K.
    replied
    Looks Great Tom! Not sure how helpful my notes were, it's hard to explain some of the little tips and tricks involved in spraying through words in a message.

    As for perfect finishes, mine fall short more times than not. I've also learned recently, every material is it's own animal. Never had much trouble shooting lacquer, but shooting a Satin Black Paint finish is kicking my butt every time I try. Might be something as simple as my choice in the paint material, not sure yet. Trying to spray cabinets in a dusty warehouse certainly isn't helping either. Anyway, what I'm trying to say is it's not as easy as some of those guys make it look in the YouTube videos. It will definitely take some practice but when it turns out right, man is it nice. Stick with it, I know you're going to get better and better at it with each new project.

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