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  • tomzarbo
    started a topic Buyout PR Subwoofer Project...

    Buyout PR Subwoofer Project...

    A little while ago PE had some buyout Passive Radiators for sale, (I think they're sold out now though) I picked up a few and didn't do anything with them. Then Kenny K. whipped up a tasty cube of bass that closely mimics Wolf's "Triumph" subwoofer (which I also have). Here is the end of that thread which is actually Paul Carmody's "Voxel" thread: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...mini-sub/page3

    I ended up with a slightly different cabinet, a 10.5" cube, but the idea and inspiration was all Kenny K's... I never would have thought about pairing that PR with the 5.25 TB ferrite driver. (I was thinking PR's for a smallish tower speaker.) My box ends up being about an inch bigger than the "Triumph" sub, which was a 9.5" cube with .75" material.

    Pieces for four of these cut out... hey, it's just as easy to cut out four than to cut pieces for one.





    I recessed the PR's because they had a funky kind of rounded edge that would have looked goofy if I didn't recess them... kind of like a rounded edge, but with the biggest part at the edge. You can see it in the pic a few down...
    I just flush mounted the TB sub.

    See some glue discoloration on the cabinets near the roundovers? It's a 1.5" roundover I did in my router table... even though I had a board as a backing piece to minimize tear out on the edge of the cabinet, it still happened on a few of them. I tend to use a super-light touch when I'm using that router table with the big bit in there... as I've said before... that thing scares the carp out of me. I think I just wasn't pushing hard enough on the backer board. Anyway, I just lifted up the edge of the MDF that was lifted up and shot some glue in there and taped it down, problem solved.



    It will use two of the buyout PR's and of course the 5.25" Ferrite TB sub along with a PE 25 watt plate amp. They just went on sale a few weeks ago luckily.



    I used Walnut for the veneer. There are only two seams on the sides. I used 2' wide x 8' rolls and two sections meant that I had two seams to deal with. I ended up applying glue to the entire four sides of the box at once, and using the iron on method and cutting one layer over the other -- was able to glue up all four sides in one operation. I also veneered the top... the bottom I'm just putting some of the wipe-on poly on, and I'll call it done.







    The F3 is about 34 Hz, and with 25 watts, it should hit 93 dB at that frequency.... F6: 31.5 Hz... F10: 29Hz. At 25 watts Xmax is never breached, so that's nice. The PR's are set up with the stock weight, there appears to be a mass of epoxy or something inside of where the voice coil is. There is no way to easily add mass, not that it's needed.

    I know the 25 watt amp might be considered 'not enough' for a driver with a 40 watt power handling ability, but bumping the scenario up to 40 watts only yields 2 dB more of output at 30 Hz, so I think the cute little 25 watter' will work fine for this. I absolutely love my little "Triumph" subwoofer, which uses the PE 25 watt plate amp...and I'm hoping this one performs equally well.

    This one will be for my father, to go with the "Encore's" I built him a few years back. He uses them with his computer setup in his mancave/bedroom. Another one will be for my niece's boyfriend, who has a set of Jeff Bagby's Quarks (which he loves) and I told him I'd get him some bass soon to go with them. I think these will be a good match for them, he uses them as a computer sound system as well, which works well for the PE 25 watt plate amp with it's on/off/volume knob.

    Yeah, nothing too exciting here, but there doesn't seem to be a ton of construction pics floating around lately, so I'm posting what I've got.

    TomZ

  • Wolf
    replied
    As long as you can run a brace from top to bottom panels (I used a 1" dowel), then you won't sacrifice the integrity of the enclosure as I built it. The panels are not very large to start with, but bracing can still be important. With the woofer on the bottom, the brace would not be possible.

    Later,
    Wolf

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  • fassj
    replied
    Click image for larger version

Name:	E5873291-8A43-4F5A-BCC5-DCCB80303476.jpeg
Views:	1
Size:	88.4 KB
ID:	1390945 Here’s a quick render from SketchUp of the build using 3/4” MDF. I saw someone else made a down firing version on this which looked amazing. Would anyone anticipate there being any drawbacks to that design?




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  • fassj
    replied
    Thank you! Just ordered what I needed!

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  • Wolf
    replied
    I don't know that I'd worry about the difference since Tom has built with the ferrite and been happy.

    Thanks for the referral, Tom! I still have one of the 2 I built back in 2007, not sure I'm going to give it up...

    Later,
    Wolf

    Leave a comment:


  • tomzarbo
    replied
    Hopefully wolf sees this thread for official word, but the triumphs I built were the same size as outlined by him, and they use the ferrite version. Seems to work fine. I think others have done so as well.
    TomZ

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  • fassj
    replied
    If I understand the Triumph design correctly that is using the Neo magnet of the W5, how would I determine how much to increase the box dimensions to accommodate the larger magnet on the ferrite version?

    I assume it's just the difference between the volume displacement of each of the magnets but I don't see where I can get those dimensions.

    Leave a comment:


  • fassj
    replied
    Thanks Tom! The Photobucket link is great! I did find the PR's, thanks! I definitely love the size factor of this. Appreciate all the info!

    Leave a comment:


  • tomzarbo
    replied
    Originally posted by fassj View Post
    That Summer Winds project looks amazing!

    I agree my box is too small, I was trying to match the recommended size on the Peerless specs. I'm all for rebuilding a new box. I have another thread where it was suggested that I would likely be better off using the Tang Band W5 5 1/4" in a larger enclosure. I'm leaning towards a passive radiator design similar to what you've built in this thread using that W5 driver.

    Would you be able to recommend which PR's would be a good match for the Tang Band W5-1138SMF 5-1/4" and a box volume? I'm using the Lepai LP210PA amp if that helps.
    Boy, can I. This one: Peerless by Tymphany SDS-P830880 5 1/4" Passive Radiator.

    Here is the link to Wolf's 'Triumph' page on photobucket. He has enough info there to explain it all. http://photobucket.com/gallery/user/...Dg4MQ==/?ref=1

    That PR looks to be for sale on PE's site now, but you apparently have to buy a quantity? If you do a search for it, you'll find it at another vendor online for the "Mad" price of $11 if PE won't sell you two.

    It's probably 'THE' small passive radiator'd subwoofer. I've built several and they are basically awesome.
    Actually, it's the smaller, 'comparison' subwoofer in this post; here's a direct link to make life easy: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...63#post1285563

    It's a great little subwoofer, you'll love it.
    TomZ

    P.S. Thanks for the kind words on the 'Summer Winds' project.

    Leave a comment:


  • fassj
    replied
    That Summer Winds project looks amazing!

    I agree my box is too small, I was trying to match the recommended size on the Peerless specs. I'm all for rebuilding a new box. I have another thread where it was suggested that I would likely be better off using the Tang Band W5 5 1/4" in a larger enclosure. I'm leaning towards a passive radiator design similar to what you've built in this thread using that W5 driver.

    Would you be able to recommend which PR's would be a good match for the Tang Band W5-1138SMF 5-1/4" and a box volume? I'm using the Lepai LP210PA amp if that helps.

    Leave a comment:


  • tomzarbo
    replied


    Your box is just WAY too small if you ask me...…. .17 cu. ft. equals about 4.9 liters, it really needs a lot more room than that.

    I used that driver in my 'Summer Winds' project...
    http://projectgallery.parts-express....-summer-winds/

    ...and
    In that design it was in a 13.6 liter cabinet, vented with a 1.5" x 7" long port (actually 1.59" for the black ABS at home improvement stores). This yields a tuning of around 37 Hz or so.
    Your vent looks fairly small as well and I don't see much if any roundover on it.

    If you don't want to make another box, could you try to stuff the vent with some wadded up socks and see how it sounds that way? You may be able to live with it sealed... at least the chuffing will be gone. Crank down the crossover to minimum, crank up the volume a bit more... it may be acceptable.

    TomZ

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  • fassj
    replied
    I know this thread is a few months old but I'm looking for designs for a small PC subwoofer that I can make using the drive and amp I currently have. Would TomZ's design work for my driver and amp combo or would I need to change any of the parameters?

    Current driver is https://www.parts-express.com/peerle...-ohm--264-1604
    Current amp is https://www.parts-express.com/lepai-...3118--310-4002

    I built a ported box for these but am getting some port noises. Here's the current box and dimensions. I'm pairing this with some AudioEngine A2+ desktop speakers.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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  • Kevin K.
    replied
    I'm betting this sub will be a good match, it was an impressive little booger and didn't take a lot of power to make it sing.

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  • tomzarbo
    replied
    Thanks guys!

    No Kevin, your help helped. You're right, it's just going to take me a few times to get the hang of it. And yes, it seems each type of veneer acts differently to the process. Beings I used a spray can instead of a proper gun, I had a shinier top than sides, but it still all looks good to me. Almost to the point of being okay if I had purchased it retail, but not quite. At least I have the tools now do get it done right, just need to perfect the technique. I still really like rub on poly, though. It's just SOOOOooooo easy!

    Well anyway, I'll plug one of these subs into the new Dayton 2.1 amp and see what it can do with the Bantam's speakers. Hopefully it's a good match output wise.

    TomZ

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  • Drjay
    replied
    Beautiful work!

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