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Thinking similiar to Statement/Khanspires but ...

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  • #61
    What a pain in the bum to finish these things. Planned on spending maybe ~$100 in paint, easily spent $200 just in paint, and several weeks of filling, sanding, and painting. No matter how hard I tried to fill/sand, where the pieces mated, the lines still ghosted through the final finish. Used plastic body filler and glazing putty. No dice. Face it, I'm no paint-n-body guy. Tried to get a pic showing it, but the old iphone wasn't up to the task. Doubt I'll be going this route again. Kind of disappointed, not the finish desired in the off chance of being able to make one of the diy meets. You guys make it look so easy.

    Anyhow, there up and playing. Time to get back to work on the minidsp. Generally speaking, with a WMTMW like this, in reguards to lobeing, is it better to go with a higher order crossover? Is there some general rule of thumb I need to be keeping in mind like, ie.; to use, or not use, a combination of odd and even order crossovers? What about using 1st order crossovers in combination with shelf filters? Here's when I'm at presently. Red is the latest revision, gated @ 3.4ms. Measurements were taken inside as these things are too heavy for my aching back to schlep outside.
    Click image for larger version

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    How does the impulse response look?


    Attached Files
    http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...khanspires-but
    http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...pico-neo-build
    http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...ensation-build

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    • #62
      Drat, my pics keep going sideways? They don't show like that on the computer?


      Click image for larger version

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      http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...khanspires-but
      http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...pico-neo-build
      http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...ensation-build

      Comment


      • #63
        I'd try a higher x-over point for the tweeter / mids. Try a LR4 at about 2.3k on the mids, and LR4 at 2.8k on the tweeter.

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        • #64
          Making the seams in MDF invisible takes a ton of work, in my opinion. On the removable back panel of the center speaker I've been working on, I filled any gaps, chips, etc with Bondo, then sanded smooth. sanded with 120, then 150, and finally 220 grit sandpaper. Then, I applied several layers of Killz over all the surfaces, sanding with 220 between each layer. Finally, I used an oil-based satin paint to coat, I did several layers, and used steel wool to smooth between coats. It's a lot of effort, but I ended up with absolutely no visible seams.

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