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  • Tweeter and HPF

    Could someone recomend a tweeter and HPF or cap to use with the Aurasound NS3 drivers?

  • #2
    The NS3 doesn't really need one. If you wanted one I'd probably use a Dayton ND20. But if you make a two way with them, you really need more than a simple cap.

    A simple starting point would be .45mh and 5.6uf 2nd order on the NS3 with a zobel consisting of 12uf and 9.1 ohm. On the tweeter, 2nd order 6.2uf and .35mh with an l-pad consisting of a series 4.7ohm and parallel 1.5ohm.

    This is assuming you want a flat response,are using the 8 ohm NS3/ND90, and will be putting the speakers in a bookshelf surrounded by books or on a desk pushed up against the wall. Otherwise you might want some BSC correction, but one would need to know the baffle width.

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    • #3
      Sorry for not understand much of what was stated in the post above, It was like a foregn language to me as I am very novice in this topic. Would this item work Part # 266-472 ?

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      • #4
        http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...rs-the-dadiels

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        • #5
          Originally posted by dstebner View Post
          Sorry for not understand much of what was stated in the post above, It was like a foregn language to me as I am very novice in this topic. Would this item work Part # 266-472 ?

          Technically yes, will it sound good no. You also need an LPF on the NS3 and the NS3 isn't the easiest driver to roll off, especially at higher frequencies. Most all tweeters will be far louder than the NS3 which means the signal to the tweeter will need to be reduced via resistors which is called an l-pad network. Otherwise you'll have all treble and very little bass.

          Since this is all very foreign to you.. My suggestion is to not use a tweeter at all. The NS3 is a full range speaker and does pretty good full spectrum, although it's response can be shaped a bit to improve it. Look up the Sprite boombox which uses the same driver all by itself. If you want a tweeter Jeff's link is a good starting point.

          If you want to dive off the deep end and learn about crossovers so that it's not so foreign... Try this link... https://www.calsci.com/audio/X-Overs.html

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          • #6
            To elaborate more. Here are two simulations with the NS3/ND90-8. The first is what you would end up with by combining the ND20 (and most tweeters will look similar to this, very high peak in the high frequencies) using the off the shelf HPF you mentioned. The second is the same drivers but with the quick work up of components I listed, which can probably be even better with some time and tweaking. The first one is unlistenable, the 2nd one is not too bad.

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            For comparison here is the NS3/ND90-8 all by itself with no shaping. It's better than adding the tweeter and an off the shelf HPF XO.

            Click image for larger version

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            • #7
              Make some noice, thanks for the replys. I actually did look at the dadiel speaker build as that is where I got the idea I needed a tweeter to fill the high end.

              I will use the NS3 without and see how they are.

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              • #8
                For anyone wanting to build something like the Sprite build with a tweeter, you could try pairing the ND90-8 with the ND20FA-6. You could use the Sprite BSC/contour filter for the ND90-8. The ND20FA-6 would need to be padded down with an L-Pad of around 11db to account for the difference in sensitivity and BSC. You could do this with a 4.3 ohm resistor in series with a 2.4 ohm resistor to ground. The HPF for the ND20FA could be a simple 1st order poly 3.0 uF capacitor for a roll off around 9 KHz. The catch is to cross around the natural roll off of the ND90-8 to avoid using too many components. I've done two builds with this combo of drivers and a third with an AMT tweeter (though I've slightly modded the BSC filter on the woofer). The tweeter adds so much air and opens up the sound. Off axis response in far superior than not using tweeters. The total added parts to the Sprite build would be 2 tweeters, 4 resistors and 2 capacitors. Not very costly and well worth it, as it makes listening fun off axis and at distances greater than just desktop use.

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                • #9
                  A easy "cheat" would be using a very high HP frequency to also "attenuate" the tweeter, you could start with a .5uf cap
                  then trying a 1uf, 1.5uf etc until you get enough tweeter to fill in the top end.
                  Guess xmax's age.

                  My guess: 15. His grammar is passable. His trolling is good.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by make_some_noise View Post



                    If you want to dive off the deep end and learn about crossovers so that it's not so foreign... Try this link... https://www.calsci.com/audio/X-Overs.html
                    Haven't had time to read it but I scanned through and read some sections. Seems to be an outstanding reference, thanks for that! It does seem to be incomplete though; it goes through section 8, but the last couple of sections are not there.

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