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C-Note MT Bookshelf Speaker Kit Pair & Other kits

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  • Originally posted by kevintomb
    Obviously there would almost for sure need to be some changes to crossover, as no woofer would have the same identical sensitivity, AND, High end roll off and impedance etc., BUT..... Sounds like a great idea for a step up model. ....a 6.5" Big brother to the C-Note......."Buck Fifty"?
    I'm in for the "buck fifty" whenever they come to the market . I'm sure they can definitely do it... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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    • Could do the DSA175 and ND25FW in the BR-1 cabinet
      John H

      SLS-85, BMR-3L, Mini-TL, BR-2, Titan OB, B452, Udique, Vultus, Latus1, Seriatim, Aperivox,Pencil Tower

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      • So I just got my C-note parts in the mail yesterday. These kits are very impressive! The drivers look solid and included all air-core coils and Dayton poly caps. I was a little disappointed I got Jantzen coils instead of the new Dayton Air-cores. A few of the pieces of the enclosure were chipped as the side of the box ripped open, but for the price I can't complain at all.

        The designer series drivers look really nice for the money. The magnet on the back of the woofer is MASSIVE and this thing is Heavy! I am trying to get my 5 year old son involved in building them. We glued up most of the boxes last night in an hour. He decided he wants to paint them Gold Metallic! It was hilarious trying to explain the woofer and tweeter and crossover and port tubes to him. Kids are really funny in how they look at things. He couldn't decide if the port tubes were trumpets or telescopes.

        I am hoping to have these playing music by the end of the weekend, and will be sure to post more pics when we are done. They will be going up against my Pioneer BS21s which I really enjoy for they money I paid- but I hope the C-notes blow them away!

        Small question: besides hot glue, what do you guys like for gluing down crossover parts?
        -Dan
        Mandolin Curved Cabinet Floorstanding; Dayton Reference 18" sealed Subwoofer; Sealed 12" Dayton Reference Subwoofer ; Overnight Sensation builds

        Comment


        • Originally posted by djkest View Post
          So I just got my C-note parts in the mail yesterday. These kits are very impressive! The drivers look solid and included all air-core coils and Dayton poly caps. I was a little disappointed I got Jantzen coils instead of the new Dayton Air-cores. A few of the pieces of the enclosure were chipped as the side of the box ripped open, but for the price I can't complain at all.

          The designer series drivers look really nice for the money. The magnet on the back of the woofer is MASSIVE and this thing is Heavy! I am trying to get my 5 year old son involved in building them. We glued up most of the boxes last night in an hour. He decided he wants to paint them Gold Metallic! It was hilarious trying to explain the woofer and tweeter and crossover and port tubes to him. Kids are really funny in how they look at things. He couldn't decide if the port tubes were trumpets or telescopes.

          I am hoping to have these playing music by the end of the weekend, and will be sure to post more pics when we are done. They will be going up against my Pioneer BS21s which I really enjoy for they money I paid- but I hope the C-notes blow them away!

          Small question: besides hot glue, what do you guys like for gluing down crossover parts?

          Hey Dan,

          I received one of my 2 kits with chipped corners on the MDF as well, I basically glued and hammered/pressed them to make it even again and put those parts to face the inside of the cabinet during assembly.

          I use gorilla glue as well but I honestly prefer a good quality hot glue, in case something goes wrong or a component blows out its way easier to replace.

          Alex

          Comment


          • I strap them to peg board with zip-ties. E6000 is my adhesive choice if necessary.

            Later,
            Wolf
            "Wolf, you shall now be known as "King of the Zip ties." -Pete00t
            "Wolf and speakers equivalent to Picasso and 'Blue'" -dantheman
            "He is a true ambassador for this forum and speaker DIY in general." -Ed Froste
            "We're all in this together, so keep your stick on the ice!" - Red Green aka Steve Smith

            *InDIYana event website*

            Photobucket pages:
            http://photobucket.com/Wolf-Speakers_and_more

            My blog/writeups/thoughts here at PE:
            http://techtalk.parts-express.com/blog.php?u=4102

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            • As Wolf mentioned, I also zip tie everything first, then solder and test, then hot glue gun to ensure maximum longevity of the crossover.

              Kids are a wonderious thing, their imaginations not yet hindered by the standard rules/regulations/norms imposed on them throughout the many years of school and societal pressure :P Sometimes I miss being a kid!

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              • These cabinets are pretty solid with 1/2" MDF, and they aren't real big obviously. So of course I had to improve on them slightly. We want some additional stiffness without taking away much internal volume. I cut some strips of 3/4" void-free plywood, 1" wide. The first brace goes side-to-side roughly in the center of the largest panel. The 2nd brace goes front-to back providing much more support for the thinnest, most vulnerable part of the front baffle. It barely fits on this narrow area turned sideways, and should provide some much-needed support. The 2 braces consume 11.25 in^3 or 0.184 liters out of the roughly 8.5 liters of net volume. The enclosures are still adequately large for this woofer based on my simulations. The volume change isn't enough to effect the tuning of the enclosure
                -Dan
                Mandolin Curved Cabinet Floorstanding; Dayton Reference 18" sealed Subwoofer; Sealed 12" Dayton Reference Subwoofer ; Overnight Sensation builds

                Comment


                • I added ~1/2" chamfers to all the sides. I also increased the front roundover just a bit, and then sanded a more gradual roll-off on the front. I am sealing the seams with bondo glazing putty (have some lying around) and then I will probably seal them with sanding sealer before hitting them with primer.

                  ETA: Went all over town and couldn't find the 0.11" female disconnect terminals anywhere. I should have just ordered some from Parts Express! This is my major hang-up right now.
                  Last edited by djkest; 06-12-2017, 01:13 PM.
                  -Dan
                  Mandolin Curved Cabinet Floorstanding; Dayton Reference 18" sealed Subwoofer; Sealed 12" Dayton Reference Subwoofer ; Overnight Sensation builds

                  Comment


                  • I'm not ready for a full evaluation of the sound of the C-notes yet, as they really haven't had a fair amount of time to break-in yet; but I do have one observation. The bass these things put out in small-to-medium sized rooms is very nice. It won't replace a dedicated subwoofer, but it's clean and deep. I've been listening to some Jazz from Louis Armstrong, Dianna Krall, and Norah Jones- it plays the upright bass nicely.
                    -Dan
                    Mandolin Curved Cabinet Floorstanding; Dayton Reference 18" sealed Subwoofer; Sealed 12" Dayton Reference Subwoofer ; Overnight Sensation builds

                    Comment


                    • Hi All, I ended up finishing a pair of these over the weekend, I used Acry-Tech Ultra Deep Tint Base and tinted it in Sherwin Williams' Adriatic Sea color, I love that color and makes speakers blend easily with modern furniture and deco. That coating has endless possibilities and is extremely easy to apply, used less than 1 pint of material on this pair. The color ended up being the "color of the month", I was not aware of it, perhaps the pictures can be misleading but you can take a look at the video https://youtu.be/yLaZL8sGYE4 Will see what I do with the other pair... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                      • +1 on the color
                        John H

                        SLS-85, BMR-3L, Mini-TL, BR-2, Titan OB, B452, Udique, Vultus, Latus1, Seriatim, Aperivox,Pencil Tower

                        Comment


                        • Anyone mounted the WF60PA in one of these yet? how did you mount the IR sensor and led's?

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by kenrhodes View Post
                            Anyone mounted the WF60PA in one of these yet? how did you mount the IR sensor and led's?

                            Hey Ken,

                            I mounted one in my pair at home. For the IR sensor I started by drilling an 1/8" deep recess in the front panel with a 7/8" spade bit (perfect fit for the IR window).Then I used a 5/8" spade bit and drilled the rest of the way through the front panel. For the sensor module I just used hot glue to hold it in place in the 5/8" hole and then pretty much coated the back in hot glue to ensure a good seal. The baffle is just thick enough that the IR window will mount flush without touching the LED or sensor. Then glue the window in place, I used 4 tiny dabs of hot glue.

                            When I designed the enclosure I made sure the the port was high enough that the amp will just fit in the back while leaving enough room for the crossover to mount on the bottom panel of the enclosure. You want the amp as close to the port flange as possible. The WF60PA is pretty much a perfect match for the C-Notes.


                            -Chris P

                            Comment


                            • I would like to upgrade the crossover caps to ClarityCap or Mundorf, but the 5.1uF value is not available. Would using 4.7uF change the response significantly, or should I do 4.7uF and .47uF in parallel to equal 5.17uF?

                              Comment


                              • I don't think a $100 kit is where you need to shell out the extra money for special caps. The extra money could be used for a kit with better drivers or to upgrade your front end (DAC, source, amp, etc.) when such caps really make a difference. Just where I would put my money before I would spend it on capacitors.

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