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Advice on in-wall/built-in HT subwoofers

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  • Advice on in-wall/built-in HT subwoofers

    Good Afternoon!

    Over the past few weeks, I've been working on getting my media room set up, and the final piece of puzzle is the subwoofers. I have the L/C/R speakers all mounted in-wall behind an acoustically transparent screen, and am planning to install dual in-wall subwoofers as well. From what I can tell, the majority of off-the-shelf in wall subwoofers are pretty poor, so I plan to do some DIYing.

    The room is 13x17 with 12 foot ceilings. The wall that the screen is on abuts an attic space, so there is plenty of space to build into as needed. The only drawback being that the attic space is not climate controlled, so the studs are enclosed on both sides, which will make it more difficult, but not impossible, to mount an enclosure to the studs. I'll be powering the subs with two NHT SA-2's - not super strong but respectable amps.

    Most of the time we're watching at moderate volume levels, so I don't need anything that will set off car alarms down the block, and I don't want to install anything so large, that I would have to cut out a stud (15" on center) and put a header in, so probably 12" woofers max. I'm thinking of a budget of around $300 for drivers.

    What would you guys recommend - drivers, bass alignment etc... I've been kicking around doing dual-opposed drivers in an infinite baffle setup, doing two of the new ultimax 8s with a slot port, trying a DIY in-wall enclosure with the Dayton LS12-44s, or even just using a pair of Tang Band W6-1139SIF's I have laying around. I'm not much of a Home Theater or subwoofer buff, so I'd value your thoughts.

    Cheers!

    Joe

  • #2
    For me, right now, the RSSHF-4s are on sale, and would each look great in a 2.5cf box w/a 4" Precision Port, that's 20" long. Fb and F3 in the mid 20s.
    The LS12s can have the same rolloff, but in 3.5cf (each) w/a 4" port that's 9" long (Fb of 28Hz). They have a slight edge in sensitivity, but most of that would be negated by your amp's slightly lower output into 8 ohms. The RS has more Xmax headroom (and COULD take more power).

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    • #3
      Good Morning!

      Well, I ended up finding a pretty good deal on a pair of the Ultimax 10" on eBay, so I'm planning to try those in slot ported boxes tuned to the low 20s.

      I'll share the progress of the build once it gets underway!

      Joe

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      • #4
        Click image for larger version

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        This is a slotted cab I designed (using my own DATS parms) for use w/a Dayton plate amp.

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        • #5
          With a set of UM 10's, I'd run manifolds and go infinite baffle instead of messing with boxes behind the wall. It's easier and IB subs sound awesome. JMHO.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by make_some_noise View Post
            With a set of UM 10's, I'd run manifolds and go infinite baffle instead of messing with boxes behind the wall. It's easier and IB subs sound awesome. JMHO.
            I would definitely consider going this route. Do you have a picture of a setup like this?

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            • #7
              Well a manifold is a box that is open on one end but is a little easier to deal with and integrate. Here is someone's IB manifold with a couple of large drivers. The end going through the wall is simply open into listening room and the attic is the "enclosure". Not all drivers can do IB, but the UM's can. You might look into the following forum if you are interested in doing an IB install: http://ibsubwoofers.proboards.com/

              Click image for larger version

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              • #8
                Got the manifolds built and everything installed today. I haven't had time yet to do much listening, so I'll hold off for now on commenting on the sound.

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                • #9
                  Nice work! Should look good once finished.

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                  • #10
                    With an adjacent attic, I think a IB is the ideal way to go. But, a pair of 10s is a little small for an IB, don't you think?
                    - Ryan

                    CJD Ochocinco ND140/BC25SC06 MTM & TM
                    CJD Khanspires - A Dayton RS28/RS150/RS225 WMTMW
                    CJD Khancenter - A Dayton RS28/RS150/RS180 WTMW Center
                    CJD In-Khan-Neatos - A Dayton RS180/RS150/RS28 In/On Wall MTW

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                    • #11
                      I got the screen back up and watched some clips from a few movies to get the subs dialed in. I have them crossed at 80hz to the balance of the system. Overall I'm pleased with the sound. They are definitely capable of hitting hard, and they blend very well into the other speakers.

                      My only concern at this point is that they seem to get a little sloppy at higher excursion levels. I suspect that the issue may be with the NHT-2s. I'm going to try powering them with my Teac AI-3000, which is a much stronger amplifier in all regards, to see if they behave better with more/better power.

                      Cheers!

                      Joe

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