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  • New Speedster Build

    Hi there,

    This is my first time posting on here and my second project started. I am building a pair of the Paul Carmody Speedsters for a friend. So the basic design of the speaker is fairly straight forward however I wanted to get peoples opinion on one particular aspect.

    1 - The driver spacing: Would it be detrimental to the sound if I spaced out the drivers just enough so that they were not overlapping? I can't help but feel that leaving them as they are looks a little like a mistake to the uninformed. I will attach a picture with what I Intend to do.

    Appreciate any help I can get.





  • #2
    I feel like there was something pertinent about the spacing, but don't recall. Cab looks beautiful.
    Builds - C-Killa - Speedsters - LithMTM - Talking Sticks - Pocket Rockets - Khanspires - Dayton RS Center - RS225/28A - Kairos - Adelphos - SEOS TD12X - Dayton 8 - Needles - 871S - eD6c - Overnight Sensations - Tritrix (ported) - Lineup F4 - Stentorians - The Cheapies - Tub Thumpers - Barbells - Tuba HT - Numerous subwoofers - probably missing a few...... :p

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    • #3
      I am pretty sure that having the drivers this far apart wil cause a chemical reaction that wil make the speaker explode into thousands of pingpong balls, and cause a black hole that will end all existing life.

      Fun aside; I really don't know. Would be great if someone could answer this question since I too prefer this baffle layout.

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      • #4
        Is the baffle the same size as the original?
        "Everything is nothing without a high sound quality." (Sure Electronics)

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        • #5
          even went threw his original thread here about the overlap
          http://techtalk.parts-express.com/fo...ny-2-way/page1
          possible i missed a post some where but im still pretty sure the overlap has to do with high crossover point and the large face plate. even on his page there is no mention about it, so changing the spacing would mean a different crossover(pretty sure).

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          • #6
            I like the idea of keeping the driver spacing to the original spec.'s (I believe comb filtering at the XO freq. is the issue.).

            If it were me, I'd mount the tweeter then cut the recess for the woofer. That would allow the router to shave away the area of tweeter face plate to allow the woofer to be recessed. I assume it;s a plastic face plate. You would need to check that there is enough clearance between the woofer recess and the tweeter motor itself.

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            • #7
              My decision to overlap the drivers was mostly cosmetic. Yes, it does help bring the Center-to-Center distances of the drivers closer together, but spacing the drivers a bit farther away on the baffle will not have that big of an effect on the integration, especially once you move a few feet away from the speaker. Now, as for the bit of Z-axis offset that changes when you move the driver flat into the baffle--changing that by 1/4" or whatever it is will also have a slight effect on the lobe of the speaker... tilt it down very slightly. But again, I wouldn't lose sleep over it. Plenty of people have built them both ways, and been happy.

              I hope this helps.
              Paul
              Isn't it about time we started answering rhetorical questions?

              Paul Carmody's DIY Audio Projects
              Twitter: @undefinition1

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              • #8
                Hi there,

                Thank you for the responses. I've only just been able to get on here to check them out now.
                As the speaker is not for me and for someone who is not exactly an audiophile, I imagine she wouldn't notice the difference other than the aesthetics of it. I'm glad to hear from you Paul as being your design I feel you are probably the most qualified and level headed to give a reasonable answer. The cabinet in the picture is not my design however I am very fond of it.

                One other thing I would like to ask. I'm planing on building this with 18mm (I'm from New Zealand) MDF or what is close to 3/4" This makes it impossible to get the correct internal volume while having the external dimensions exactly the same as you have published. I understand it's best to leave the front baffle dimensions the same and increase the depth of the unit? How much lee way is there in this as I would to increase the area of the baffle to allow for the thicker material. I also plan to have rounded edges if the makes a difference at all?

                Cheers for the replies,
                Ethan

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                • #9
                  No one would be able to tell the diff. in using material that's 1mm "off" in thickness.

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                  • #10
                    Sorry I may have given confusing information. The original design calls for 1/2" MDF but I already have some 18mm to use. It wasn't the thickness that I was concerned about but the baffle dimensions and internal volume. I figure the 18mm will be stiffer and I already have some so hence the question.

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                    • #11
                      Then, as you say, just increase the depth to accommodate.

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